Shimmy/shake when braking @ 60mph+
07-19-2010, 09:54 AM
#1
Shimmy/shake when braking @ 60mph+
I installed Brakemotive slotted/drilled rotors and pads back in early June. I followed the bedding instructions EXACTLY as described. I also replaced the front calipers with dual piston, Acura Legend calipers and had the car bled manually three times during the upgrade, and then vacuum bled just a week or two ago by a local shop.
Braking is great @ 60mph and less but 60mph-80mph braking causes the steering wheel to shimmy/shake, just like it did with my old, warped (at least I thought they were!) rotors. Any ideas if the problem is the rotors or if it is bearings or something different?
This is really frustrating
Braking is great @ 60mph and less but 60mph-80mph braking causes the steering wheel to shimmy/shake, just like it did with my old, warped (at least I thought they were!) rotors. Any ideas if the problem is the rotors or if it is bearings or something different?
This is really frustrating
07-19-2010, 09:56 AM
#2
Regional Coordinator (Texas)
iTrader: (38)
bracket bolts on there tight?
i'm starting to think that its our knuckles that have a microscopic bend at the caliper bracket mount puts the calipers at a slightly different angle than the rotor.
i'm starting to think that its our knuckles that have a microscopic bend at the caliper bracket mount puts the calipers at a slightly different angle than the rotor.
07-19-2010, 10:15 AM
#3
09-07-2010, 05:04 PM
#4
I'm having the same problem, but more so at about 50 mph and above. I had my front rotors turned and one was out much more than the other. I pulled the brake pads out and sanded them to make sure there were no high spots. I never disconnected the brake line so did not need to bleed the brakes. All the mounting bolts are tight and the lug nuts. I could really use a little help, it is worrying me a bit! Thanks guys.
09-07-2010, 09:34 PM
#5
I have deduced that it is NOT a rotor problem in my case. It is something else in the suspension.
Additionally, when I do brake at 60mph+, the wheel shakes - my foot doesn't shake as applied to the brake pedal - therefore, the rotors aren't the issue...
But still, I dunno what it is
.
Additionally, when I do brake at 60mph+, the wheel shakes - my foot doesn't shake as applied to the brake pedal - therefore, the rotors aren't the issue...
But still, I dunno what it is
.
09-07-2010, 09:40 PM
#6
I agree, the shake is not at my foot, it is in the steering wheel. I have a company car so my CL doesn't get driven much. This shake has just shown up. I did find my rotors warped some, but no issue in turning them. I'm wondering if the rotors being out has caused something else to be out, thus when turning the rotors, changing the pads etc, does not solve the problem. did not see anything loose when I had the wheels and rotors off. Confusing!
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09-08-2010, 12:47 PM
#9
IF it ONLY happens when braking it CANNOT be the balance of the wheels. end of story
If you only have a vibration when you hit the brakes, it's more likely than not going to just be the brakes.
my rotors are warped at the moment and when i hit the brake and the rotors are hot the wheel shakes and the pedal doesn't feel anything significant.
the rotor can be warped, then wheel will shake, but that does not mean the pedal will be obviously differentiating/pulsing. it is likely but not for certain.
if it's really bad it'll be in the pedal tho.. if it's rotors.
OP i had the same issue with the first set of brakes I installed.. thought it was the pads... bought new ones. then i just bought new DBA rotors and that took care of that.
If your pad/rotors aren't 100% bedded. you could potentially get a steering vibration under minimal braking at high speeds. (seen that before). but i'd think in three months u'd have driven enough the bed those in period.
wheel shakes a little say breaking from 80 to 60 under minimal pedal pressure,.. or if you hit the brakes hard, it won't happen at all.
make sure to mentally Note when the shaking occurs... temperature... mileage uve driven before it starts.
try see if it's always constant. Or if heat play a roll
If you think it's the bearing(s): Jack the front end of the car off the ground and with the wheel firmly bolted on use your hands and try turning the wheel while car is off the ground. There should be NO play whatsoever. If you notice a little bit of movement. you got a problem
hopefully that'll help point u in the right direction bro. cheers
If you only have a vibration when you hit the brakes, it's more likely than not going to just be the brakes.
my rotors are warped at the moment and when i hit the brake and the rotors are hot the wheel shakes and the pedal doesn't feel anything significant.
the rotor can be warped, then wheel will shake, but that does not mean the pedal will be obviously differentiating/pulsing. it is likely but not for certain.
if it's really bad it'll be in the pedal tho.. if it's rotors.
OP i had the same issue with the first set of brakes I installed.. thought it was the pads... bought new ones. then i just bought new DBA rotors and that took care of that.
If your pad/rotors aren't 100% bedded. you could potentially get a steering vibration under minimal braking at high speeds. (seen that before). but i'd think in three months u'd have driven enough the bed those in period.
wheel shakes a little say breaking from 80 to 60 under minimal pedal pressure,.. or if you hit the brakes hard, it won't happen at all.
make sure to mentally Note when the shaking occurs... temperature... mileage uve driven before it starts.
try see if it's always constant. Or if heat play a roll
If you think it's the bearing(s): Jack the front end of the car off the ground and with the wheel firmly bolted on use your hands and try turning the wheel while car is off the ground. There should be NO play whatsoever. If you notice a little bit of movement. you got a problem
hopefully that'll help point u in the right direction bro. cheers
09-08-2010, 02:47 PM
#10
IF it ONLY happens when braking it CANNOT be the balance of the wheels. end of story
If you only have a vibration when you hit the brakes, it's more likely than not going to just be the brakes.
my rotors are warped at the moment and when i hit the brake and the rotors are hot the wheel shakes and the pedal doesn't feel anything significant.
the rotor can be warped, then wheel will shake, but that does not mean the pedal will be obviously differentiating/pulsing. it is likely but not for certain.
if it's really bad it'll be in the pedal tho.. if it's rotors.
OP i had the same issue with the first set of brakes I installed.. thought it was the pads... bought new ones. then i just bought new DBA rotors and that took care of that.
If your pad/rotors aren't 100% bedded. you could potentially get a steering vibration under minimal braking at high speeds. (seen that before). but i'd think in three months u'd have driven enough the bed those in period.
wheel shakes a little say breaking from 80 to 60 under minimal pedal pressure,.. or if you hit the brakes hard, it won't happen at all.
make sure to mentally Note when the shaking occurs... temperature... mileage uve driven before it starts.
try see if it's always constant. Or if heat play a roll
If you think it's the bearing(s): Jack the front end of the car off the ground and with the wheel firmly bolted on use your hands and try turning the wheel while car is off the ground. There should be NO play whatsoever. If you notice a little bit of movement. you got a problem
hopefully that'll help point u in the right direction bro. cheers
If you only have a vibration when you hit the brakes, it's more likely than not going to just be the brakes.
my rotors are warped at the moment and when i hit the brake and the rotors are hot the wheel shakes and the pedal doesn't feel anything significant.
the rotor can be warped, then wheel will shake, but that does not mean the pedal will be obviously differentiating/pulsing. it is likely but not for certain.
if it's really bad it'll be in the pedal tho.. if it's rotors.
OP i had the same issue with the first set of brakes I installed.. thought it was the pads... bought new ones. then i just bought new DBA rotors and that took care of that.
If your pad/rotors aren't 100% bedded. you could potentially get a steering vibration under minimal braking at high speeds. (seen that before). but i'd think in three months u'd have driven enough the bed those in period.
wheel shakes a little say breaking from 80 to 60 under minimal pedal pressure,.. or if you hit the brakes hard, it won't happen at all.
make sure to mentally Note when the shaking occurs... temperature... mileage uve driven before it starts.
try see if it's always constant. Or if heat play a roll
If you think it's the bearing(s): Jack the front end of the car off the ground and with the wheel firmly bolted on use your hands and try turning the wheel while car is off the ground. There should be NO play whatsoever. If you notice a little bit of movement. you got a problem
hopefully that'll help point u in the right direction bro. cheers
And yeah, I have warped rotors atm as well, but my pedal doesn;t shake at all.. Now the steering wheel on the other hand, thats a dfferent story.
09-08-2010, 03:26 PM
#13
SS lines i just have not even thought about. I know it makes a difference in pedal feel and reduces brake fad a bit. But I don't do a bunch of hard stops in a row to make it worth my while. My brakes stop on a dime even with the slightly warped rotors.
i think DBA fronts with hawk pads all around, and then some slotted EBCs. I'm gonna ride out the rear rotors till the pads get low then i'm gonna grab pads and rotors... make it worth my while.
i think DBA fronts with hawk pads all around, and then some slotted EBCs. I'm gonna ride out the rear rotors till the pads get low then i'm gonna grab pads and rotors... make it worth my while.
09-09-2010, 09:34 PM
#15
I've been reading all the answers and still think the answer is not there. My problem started all of a sudden, not after changing pads (bedded answer) or if caliper bolts are loose. Thinking it was the rotors, I did have the fronts turned, one was a bit warped, but once installed, the problem was still there. I rotated wheels front to back and no change. ALL of my wheels are getting hot, though the fronts hotter. I did bed them after re installing the rotors with no change. I do hear like a dragging noise, sounds like the front wheel, but can't find anything and car rolls well. I have not checked to see if the rear rotors are warped, but read earlier that the backs don't get used enough to get hot enough. Still in need of help!
09-12-2010, 07:32 PM
#17
I did rotate tires, and problem still there. With the car jacked up, I grabbed the tire and had no play at all in it, which should indicate the bearing are not worn. I have not checked the back brakes but read that could not be the issue. Any more thoughts??
09-12-2010, 08:11 PM
#18
Did you wire brush the shit out of the wheel hubs? the slightest amount of rust or anything could cause "run out" which is what ur describing technically.
DO u have an auto? do ur rpms do anything funny when it this happens. could be trans related somehow when it's disengaging. slim possibility but in all honest. I'd have to say it's pads or rotors related..
DO u have an auto? do ur rpms do anything funny when it this happens. could be trans related somehow when it's disengaging. slim possibility but in all honest. I'd have to say it's pads or rotors related..
10-08-2010, 12:30 PM
#19
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i thought if the shake is in the wheel it's the fronts and if it's in the pedal it's the rears..? i just know that i upgraded to drilled slotted and ... i got wheel shake again, maybe a year later.
10-08-2010, 06:35 PM
#20
All right, I was finally able to get my car to my Acura shop, (not dealership) and had him figure out the issue. First the noise is a wheel bearing going bad. The more important is the shake. It ended up being a rotor still warped. I also got an answer to the comment that my dealer told me about having to have the rotors turned on the car only. As I thought, that is BS. It's the same as a new set of rotors, they were not turned on the car.
10-08-2010, 09:49 PM
#21
Regional Coordinator (Texas)
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every single CL i've owned has had some kind of rotor warping problem. Some times, it will be super slight to where you can only notice it at high speeds.
10-26-2010, 01:38 PM
#23
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my car does the same thing over 80-90+. i got my from and rear brake pads fixed as well as all 4 tires rotated and it has happened once since that but i was doing 120+ but try that it should do the trick.
08-01-2011, 10:59 AM
#24
Damn, I just notice a very similar problem this morning!!!
I just did both rotors (centric) and brakes (ceramic), decent set up front only tho. The car felt flawless for about 4 days. But this morning on the highway on a downhill going 60/65 I felt the steering shake again. When I stopped I felt both rotors and they felt smooth...And this only happens on a mild braking, not at full brake or if I'm going below 40.
Couple things! I did not bled the lines and don't when were they bled last...maybe 2-3 years ago. Also it seems the calipers are the originals and I have about 150K. Last, my drivers side strut(shock) feels like is going bad...
Where do I start??? Caliper? Bleeding?? ......
Thanks for the help!
I just did both rotors (centric) and brakes (ceramic), decent set up front only tho. The car felt flawless for about 4 days. But this morning on the highway on a downhill going 60/65 I felt the steering shake again. When I stopped I felt both rotors and they felt smooth...And this only happens on a mild braking, not at full brake or if I'm going below 40.
Couple things! I did not bled the lines and don't when were they bled last...maybe 2-3 years ago. Also it seems the calipers are the originals and I have about 150K. Last, my drivers side strut(shock) feels like is going bad...
Where do I start??? Caliper? Bleeding?? ......
Thanks for the help!
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