Replaced IAC valve
05-16-2006, 04:37 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Replaced IAC valve
My idle control valve crapped out in traffic yesterday and I ended up having to brake and gas at the same time to keep it from stalling. Installed a new one and after an ecu reset, it idles nicely now. It also cured the problem I had with my rpms dipping as I take off in 1st gear.
Here are some hot naked pics of it:
Here are some hot naked pics of it:
08-08-2006, 09:33 PM
#4
Loose Cannon
most of the IAC valve problems are simply the unit getting stuck, because of the black deposits that you can clearly see. A little carb cleaner should unstick it and get it right back working again. worked for me on other cars, don't see why it shouldnt work on the CL. Also, in your case the actual servo / motor assembly could have been burnt since the gradual resistance that is imposed by the buildup of deposits, so it might actually have needed to be replaced.
10-11-2007, 11:45 AM
#5
Uses turn signals in my
Anyone have a DIY on cleaning it yet? I read in the other thread that you have to remove the two bolts to get it by itself, but some said you didn't need to remove the TB, some said you did. If I manage to do this succesfully I'll see If I can make a DIY for cleaning it. Any other tips? I have intake/carb cleaner which I plan to use.
10-11-2007, 01:45 PM
#6
I think it's just easier to remove the TB. That way you can also clean out the carbon buildup on the TB & spray some cleaner into the intake manifold as well.
When I replaced my IAC valve I did it this way.
It's actually not very hard to do. It's very straight forward & mostly self explanatory.
When I replaced my IAC valve I did it this way.
It's actually not very hard to do. It's very straight forward & mostly self explanatory.
10-11-2007, 05:03 PM
#7
says "hello to my TLX".
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
I think it's just easier to remove the TB. That way you can also clean out the carbon buildup on the TB & spray some cleaner into the intake manifold as well.
When I replaced my IAC valve I did it this way.
It's actually not very hard to do. It's very straight forward & mostly self explanatory.
When I replaced my IAC valve I did it this way.
It's actually not very hard to do. It's very straight forward & mostly self explanatory.
very easy to replace. it'll do you some good to clean the TB being that you're already in that area.TCM. i recommend you use a throttle body cleaner spray instead. when i was installing my Thermoblok spacers, i was cleaning my TB and used the stuff you mentioned. i soon had my IACV acting up. just a heads-up.
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10-11-2007, 05:57 PM
#8
'03 ABP YA4-S 6MT
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personally i used carb cleaner, sprayed it a few times and kinda swished the fluid around inside of the iacv, and did it until the fluid that came out was as clear as it went in (initially it was coming out black).
that seems to have worked for the time being
that seems to have worked for the time being
10-11-2007, 05:58 PM
#9
Uses turn signals in my
Originally Posted by Sun Diego CL-S
very easy to replace. it'll do you some good to clean the TB being that you're already in that area.TCM. i recommend you use a throttle body cleaner spray instead. when i was installing my Thermoblok spacers, i was cleaning my TB and used the stuff you mentioned. i soon had my IACV acting up. just a heads-up.
10-11-2007, 08:41 PM
#12
Uses turn signals in my
Apparently I am an idiot, I believe I got all the bolts off, Unclipped a couple of the sensors, but I couldn't get the thing to budge a damn bit and I didn't want to break anything. 
. I got to get up early to run some errans so I just redid everything I undid for now.
Maybe it's time for me to get a helms. I might try again tomorrow after class when I have more time.
. I got to get up early to run some errans so I just redid everything I undid for now.Maybe it's time for me to get a helms. I might try again tomorrow after class when I have more time.
10-12-2007, 10:27 AM
#14
Uses turn signals in my
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
The TB may be stuck on there because of the gasket. A light tap or 2 around the TB with a large hammer will knock it loose. But please put a towel over the TB first so you don't damage it.
10-12-2007, 02:28 PM
#16
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I'm doing mine this weekend too... I would definitely recommend a new gasket. I think they're about $1 or $2 from the dealership. Any air leaks from re-using the old gasket is going to cause issues (un-metered air past the MAF). Cheap insurance if you know what I mean. Good luck sir.
10-12-2007, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
umm.......We do not have a Mass Air flow sensor
Any air getting past that IACV from a busted gasket would cause a funky idle though.
06-08-2008, 06:47 PM
#20
6speed
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Originally Posted by mytran
06-08-2008, 08:21 PM
#21
Uses turn signals in my
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
The TB may be stuck on there because of the gasket. A light tap or 2 around the TB with a large hammer will knock it loose. But please put a towel over the TB first so you don't damage it.
03-01-2010, 09:44 PM
#22
1st Gear
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So I just did all this and it seems to be worse. There is a major increase in noise from the air box, and I can hear a clicking noise from what looks like an air valve in the upper drivers side of the engine compartment. car surges when put in gear.
Cleaned the iacv, lubed the shaft, cleaned out the throttle body a bit. My surge goes from 1k-3k at idle. If I turn on the air reduces to 2k ish. thing sat for about 4 months while I waited for money and parts.
When I pulled the iacv it seems frozen. It was hard to spin at first and then I could spin it but it made a grinding sound as It passed against the back part of the housing. after I shot it a ton with TB cleaner and scrubbed with a brush I could spin it a great deal better, but it still seemed rough. Dont know how it should feel, my guess was more like a skate wheel.
Any thoughts? also has the P0505 error code.
edit: did something happen here that reset our accounts? I am not a new member as you can tell (joined 1/05) but thread count and status seem new...
Cleaned the iacv, lubed the shaft, cleaned out the throttle body a bit. My surge goes from 1k-3k at idle. If I turn on the air reduces to 2k ish. thing sat for about 4 months while I waited for money and parts.
When I pulled the iacv it seems frozen. It was hard to spin at first and then I could spin it but it made a grinding sound as It passed against the back part of the housing. after I shot it a ton with TB cleaner and scrubbed with a brush I could spin it a great deal better, but it still seemed rough. Dont know how it should feel, my guess was more like a skate wheel.
Any thoughts? also has the P0505 error code.
edit: did something happen here that reset our accounts? I am not a new member as you can tell (joined 1/05) but thread count and status seem new...
03-02-2010, 08:23 AM
#23
"DD" Designated Drinker
ok this might be a related question.(car is an Auto)
When i come to a stop from the interstate or from just red light to redlight it drops the rpms real low like its gonna stahl but them comes back.
it is not changing RPMs like yours but it just made me thing this could be a sign its gonna happen. any one know what it is?
When i come to a stop from the interstate or from just red light to redlight it drops the rpms real low like its gonna stahl but them comes back.
it is not changing RPMs like yours but it just made me thing this could be a sign its gonna happen. any one know what it is?
03-02-2010, 09:19 AM
#24
'03 ABP YA4-S 6MT
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So I just did all this and it seems to be worse. There is a major increase in noise from the air box, and I can hear a clicking noise from what looks like an air valve in the upper drivers side of the engine compartment. car surges when put in gear.
Cleaned the iacv, lubed the shaft, cleaned out the throttle body a bit. My surge goes from 1k-3k at idle. If I turn on the air reduces to 2k ish. thing sat for about 4 months while I waited for money and parts.
When I pulled the iacv it seems frozen. It was hard to spin at first and then I could spin it but it made a grinding sound as It passed against the back part of the housing. after I shot it a ton with TB cleaner and scrubbed with a brush I could spin it a great deal better, but it still seemed rough. Dont know how it should feel, my guess was more like a skate wheel.
Any thoughts? also has the P0505 error code.
edit: did something happen here that reset our accounts? I am not a new member as you can tell (joined 1/05) but thread count and status seem new...
Cleaned the iacv, lubed the shaft, cleaned out the throttle body a bit. My surge goes from 1k-3k at idle. If I turn on the air reduces to 2k ish. thing sat for about 4 months while I waited for money and parts.
When I pulled the iacv it seems frozen. It was hard to spin at first and then I could spin it but it made a grinding sound as It passed against the back part of the housing. after I shot it a ton with TB cleaner and scrubbed with a brush I could spin it a great deal better, but it still seemed rough. Dont know how it should feel, my guess was more like a skate wheel.
Any thoughts? also has the P0505 error code.
edit: did something happen here that reset our accounts? I am not a new member as you can tell (joined 1/05) but thread count and status seem new...
03-18-2012, 03:57 PM
#25
C E R T I F I E D
03-18-2012, 04:49 PM
#26
most of the IAC valve problems are simply the unit getting stuck, because of the black deposits that you can clearly see. A little carb cleaner should unstick it and get it right back working again. worked for me on other cars, don't see why it shouldnt work on the CL. Also, in your case the actual servo / motor assembly could have been burnt since the gradual resistance that is imposed by the buildup of deposits, so it might actually have needed to be replaced.
its just kinda a pain getting those two little screws out from underneath.
03-18-2012, 05:02 PM
#27
So I just did all this and it seems to be worse. There is a major increase in noise from the air box, and I can hear a clicking noise from what looks like an air valve in the upper drivers side of the engine compartment. car surges when put in gear.
Cleaned the iacv, lubed the shaft, cleaned out the throttle body a bit. My surge goes from 1k-3k at idle. If I turn on the air reduces to 2k ish. thing sat for about 4 months while I waited for money and parts.
When I pulled the iacv it seems frozen. It was hard to spin at first and then I could spin it but it made a grinding sound as It passed against the back part of the housing. after I shot it a ton with TB cleaner and scrubbed with a brush I could spin it a great deal better, but it still seemed rough. Dont know how it should feel, my guess was more like a skate wheel.
Any thoughts? also has the P0505 error code.
edit: did something happen here that reset our accounts? I am not a new member as you can tell (joined 1/05) but thread count and status seem new...
Cleaned the iacv, lubed the shaft, cleaned out the throttle body a bit. My surge goes from 1k-3k at idle. If I turn on the air reduces to 2k ish. thing sat for about 4 months while I waited for money and parts.
When I pulled the iacv it seems frozen. It was hard to spin at first and then I could spin it but it made a grinding sound as It passed against the back part of the housing. after I shot it a ton with TB cleaner and scrubbed with a brush I could spin it a great deal better, but it still seemed rough. Dont know how it should feel, my guess was more like a skate wheel.
Any thoughts? also has the P0505 error code.
edit: did something happen here that reset our accounts? I am not a new member as you can tell (joined 1/05) but thread count and status seem new...
03-18-2012, 07:06 PM
#28
Whats up with RDX owners?
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jkr_j32a2 (03-20-2012)
03-20-2012, 09:42 PM
#29
C E R T I F I E D
03-20-2012, 11:45 PM
#30
i would just clap it down so it's secured to something and then get the correct bit in a drill and it should come loose.
something i do on the reg for cracking old bolts with a drill is i will lean on the drill as i push the trigger and this prevents it from popping out or stripping it
something i do on the reg for cracking old bolts with a drill is i will lean on the drill as i push the trigger and this prevents it from popping out or stripping it
03-23-2012, 10:34 AM
#33
Whats up with RDX owners?
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SG81 (03-23-2012)
04-14-2012, 07:23 PM
#37
8th Gear
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Change your IAC and be done with it. I pulled my intake, cleaned a ton of Carbon out of my intake and EGR port. I can't believe the car even ran. When I was putting it back together I decided to clean the throttle body. The first start produced the up and down idle. I unplugged the IAC. That eliminated the surge but produced a rough idle and it produced a code. I can't remember what the code was but it was idle related. I pulled the throttle body and replaced the IAC with aftermarket for around $100. I didn't feel like pulling the throttle body off for a third time. With the new IAC, spotless intake and throttle body the 2000 3.2 TL runs like a scalded dog.
03-27-2013, 12:55 PM
#38
Cruisin'
nice writeup. a few questions though. Ive got a 2000 TL and have already cleaned EGR port and replaced IM gaskets. That improved my low end power and helped a lot, but I have issues with idle. My car will be (when warmed up) idling normal at around 750rpm, but will drop to 500 or less for a short second then back to normal. It's not a misfire, as I have no CEL on and have checked all ignition/coil packs. I also cleaned my TB when I cleaned the EGR port, but I neglected to replace the TB gaskets (and I think I cracked one). I know of the carb spray diagnosis to find vac leaks, but I 'think' it's either A. my TB gasket leaking air causing the idle to fluctuate or B. my IACV is bad. Now here are the questions I have lol.
1. Im experiencing power loss, specifically in lower rpms (before VTEC kicks in)
2. When engine is warm, rpms fluctuate similar to it misfiring, and when I give it gas itll wanna stall, but it quickly goes back to normal after jamming down on the accelerator. Similarly, when I start my car after running it for a while, it'll misfire SUPER bad. ive read this is called heat blow-by or some term, something about the heat in the engine.
3. I just want to know what route to take. i plan on replacing all TB gaskets and cleaning it, and I think my IACV is either bad/clogged. SOOO, am i Just pissing up a flag pole trying to clean it instead of replacing it? Should I clean it and see what hapens or should I just go with a new one? Also, once I get the IACV off, i just spray the inside with cleaner? Or do I need to take it completely apart? (ive never taken it off before, just the IM and TB). sorry for the goddamn novel, but I love my acura and acurazine members are pretty much my mechanic lol. get back with me if anyone has suggestions for me. Thanks!!
1. Im experiencing power loss, specifically in lower rpms (before VTEC kicks in)
2. When engine is warm, rpms fluctuate similar to it misfiring, and when I give it gas itll wanna stall, but it quickly goes back to normal after jamming down on the accelerator. Similarly, when I start my car after running it for a while, it'll misfire SUPER bad. ive read this is called heat blow-by or some term, something about the heat in the engine.
3. I just want to know what route to take. i plan on replacing all TB gaskets and cleaning it, and I think my IACV is either bad/clogged. SOOO, am i Just pissing up a flag pole trying to clean it instead of replacing it? Should I clean it and see what hapens or should I just go with a new one? Also, once I get the IACV off, i just spray the inside with cleaner? Or do I need to take it completely apart? (ive never taken it off before, just the IM and TB). sorry for the goddamn novel, but I love my acura and acurazine members are pretty much my mechanic lol. get back with me if anyone has suggestions for me. Thanks!!
