FwC

iTrader: (1)

Basically my driver side power lock only works when the car is nice and cool. I live in Phoenix, so it's rarely the case.
Here's what's going on. Usually when I press my unlock/lock button on the remote or on the door, the lock just makes a noise and attempts to unlock/lock. When it doesn't work I have to open the door and manually push down the lock to lock the doors. When the driver door doesn't lock, the passenger door won't lock.
So, is there any way to get these locks or actuators to work better? Is there a mod to make it work more assuredly.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You more than likely have a bad door lock actuator, possibly two. The Drivers Multiplex Control Unit (MICU) will generally disable keyless entry and/or other door lock actuators from working only if it detects a DIRECT short to ground within any of the actuators. So if one of the actuators are momentarily working (or not reading a very low resistance) the module will attempt to energize the actuators until it fails. That is until the heat from the shortage cools off and thus enables the module to work again.

I'd start by definitely replacing the drivers door lock actuator and then retesting to see if there's any abnormal operation continuing. If so, you will more than likely have to replace the passenger door lock actuator as well. I've also seen where the MICU can send reduced voltages/grounds to the actuators causing repetitive failures and or symptoms.

FwC

iTrader: (1)

OK thanks. It sounds more like the second part "I've seen where the MICU can send reduced voltages/grounds to the actuators causing repetitive failures and or symptoms".

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

It's a posibility but also know that ALL actuators share one common circuit on one side but on the other side all actuators but the drivers door also share the same circuit. This is generally why the drivers door lock actuator fails fastest/first. You ever notice how when you use your keyless entry remote and press UNLOCK once only the drivers door unlocks and not the other three doors? It gets much more use.

The most effective (and easiest in regards to accessibility) way to determine the actual problem here would be to go to the module itself (made a mistake earlier- the module would be the Passenger Multiplex) and check both voltage drop and amp draw during lock activation. This would prevent you from having to remove all four door panels and go to the actuators themselves to test them. And because the drivers actuator is on an isolated circuit on one leg, that would be a cinch to diagnose!