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Hello everyone.......I'm new to this forum (well sorta.....I've been lurking and reading A LOT) but this is my first post.
Here's what I got, 1960 VW Baja. It's not really a VW anymore but according to the DMV it is. I've truly turned the "peoples car, into the peoples reliable car". I have a JDM J32a auto motor, auto wiring harness and auto ecu bolted to a VW TRANSAXLE and have successfully put 815 miles on it. Its awesome!!! Did I mention she only weighs 2680 pounds!!! And that's with 24 gallons of fuel, (1) 31" sapre tire, random hand tools and no occupants. I'm looking for some wiring help...since the richie module doesn't seem to be available or even exist anymore. I'm having troubles getting the computer to shift into gear, haha. The computer is limiting me to 5000rpm and no vtec, other than this, she runs and runs well, slightly on the rich side but better rich than lean.
I believe the computer thinks I'm in park or neutral. But if I jump wires and trick the computer to think it's in D3 or D4.....it wont start. I don't wanna flip 4 jumper wires on stitches every time I start the car. Computer shows 5 codes after 800+ miles and they are.....
O2 sensor 1 Not running them at all
O2 sensor 2 not running them
ELD circuit high voltage
torque solenoid B
trans fluid temp sensor
I've been thinking well let's just use a MT J32a ECU, but that seems like a bunch of unnecessary work changing sensors, pulleys, pull the oil pan I read sonewhere. There has to a way of wiring the AT ECU to work with a manual gear box. Help me out guys, I have the service manual for the 03 TL and CL and that's gotten me this far but I can't figure it out beyond this point.
I have been thinking about a couple well placed relays to do the job you're speaking of. Let me look through my notes and see if I can remember what I'm talking about.
So I've thought of that too, I used the crank sensor to jump over to the mainshaft speed sensor and jumped the cam sensor (since its twice as fast as the crank) to the countershaft speed sensor. But still the computer thinks it in gear at this point and won't start. Computer is running everything, radiator fan, fuel pump, tach sig to my dash, just like a complete 03 CL-S would.
Is this what your connector B looks like? If so, I believe you need to ground pin B14 in order to trick the ECU into thinking it's in park or neutral. If there's a neutral safety switch, I would tie a relay to it so that it grounds that pin on the ECU when the clutch pedal is pressed in.
I'll give that a shot this afternoon. I believe we are talking about the same connector B (25P). I really hope that works. I'll go buy a micro switch and put it on the clutch pedal. Ill keep ya posted. Thanks a ba-jillion!
Maybe get a 5 pin relay and set it up so that in its normal position pin D6 (it detects when the transmission range switch is in reverse) is grounded, If the ECU thinks the vehicle is in reverse MAYBE it will be happy and not try to send any shift signals to the non-existent automatic trans when the vehicle is moving. When the clutch pedal is depressed, it would energize the relay and switch over to ground B14. You could simulate the same thing by splicing B14 to a wire that was tied to ground to get it started, then pull those wires apart once it's started and splice the ground wire to D6 and drive it around.
Sweet project by the way.
Last edited by johnboy1313; 07-20-2018 at 09:48 AM.
ok, it took me a couple days to test this one, and well it worked sorta.....
going from b14 and then d6 I did it on a manual on-off-on switch and the car would start but then was only running in limp mode, 3000rpm limit.....i tried pulling d10 and d11 the mainshaft and counter shaft pins with the same results. any other ideas?
You had none of the wires for the transmission range selector switch grounded originally, correct? How does it run if you leave B14 connected to the switch to get it started but don't ground B6 after you get it started? The PCM looks for feedback from the A/T in order to shift it to the next gear at the appropriate time. It's not happy that it isn't getting the feedback. It looks like there's a "1st hold switch" that keeps the trans in first until it gets a signal to shift. It's controlled by pin E14. Once it's running, what happens when you ground E14?
no nothing was grounded previously, heck it has been running the entire time without the D plug all together, no E plug fr that matter too. ill give it a whirl "(grounding e14)and let you know. id really didn't make sense to me. should I still leave D10 & D11 mainshaft and counter shaft speeds that I'm jumping from the cam n crank?
Looks like D4 also detects when it is in neutral. I can't see why the trans would be looking for feedback if it thinks it's in neutral. Maybe try grounding that one if the others don't work.
07-20-2018, 08:36 AM
