Squag27

So last night I was on the highway and ended up running my 03 CL against a friend in his car. Immediately afterwards I had issues getting the car into 5th or 6th and the clutch pedal started getting stiff pressing it towards the floor. I ended up babying the car the 20 highway miles home and checked the clutch fluid reservoir and saw it is still full. I'm thinking the clutch is finally giving up the ghost, anyone have any other ideas?

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a pressure plate issue.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

lol, how many miles are on the car? Is the clutch the original OEM one that came with the car? Although there are those who have over 100K miles on their original clutches, if you are over 100K and hot-shoeing between street lights, you may need a new clutch.

If you go OEM, Rockauto usually has the 08-047 LUK clutch kit and DMF063 flywheel at the best prices.

Squag27

The car is at 124k now and the previous owner didn't replace it for sure. I'm guessing it hasn't ever been done seeing as how the timing belt wasn't done when I bought the car either. I found all the parts on amazon for about the same price as rockauto but with the added benefit of 2-day shipping.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Nice! A 124K CL-S6 in south florida, that sounds like a pretty good pick-up. So, you need to do the TB and now possibly the clutch/flywheel? Do an alphabet search for Acura/Honda specialty shops in your zip code to find a good shop.

Squag27

Thanks, its been pretty nice up until now. Update, as I moved the car out of the garage to its temporary home outside I went through the gears and now it won't go into 5th at all and 6th is hard to get into even with the car off.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Doesn't sound like a bad clutch to me. Either pressure plate or something inside the actual tranny.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

It very well could be the PP or tranny.

I guess my logic is that if it is, one has to pull the tranny anyway to put eyes on the clutch/PP or fix the tranny, so why not put a new clutch kit in at 124K while you are there.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Oh for sure, the clutch and PP is a minimum. But I don't want him to think changing the clutch will fix this.

A worn clutch will basically be like having the clutch pedal pressed all of the time (tranny and engine disconnected). It sounds to me like his clutch is engaged even when he's pressing the clutch, which might be a bad pressure plate.

You need to diagnose the problem before you change anything. Worst case is replacing the clutch and PP, only to find out that you need to pull it out again.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
I agree. However, it appears from the post below that he has clutch/PP functionality in all the gears except 5th & 6th. If the PP was 'toast' or at least 'hanging up' upon engagement, would it not allow him any gear access at all? Is that were you are getting that it might be something in the tranny?

BTW, It appears both father and son have been putting the ole '6-speed' through its paces as of late, so it may not be such a 'surprise' something has 'shit the bed' thus far, even at 126K.

It's not my car, so it is irrelevant; however, I know personally, after putting on my S/C'er, shortly there after, my clutch 'died'.

Squag27

Haha yeah that is my father's post. He's not too happy my stock M6 car was as fast as his with all the work done to it

zeta

iTrader: (1)

So, whats 'pops' got to say about your above dilemma?

BTW, if you don't have one already, you can download a 'Service Manual' from the thread below.
Maybe you can save a little up coming 'labor' and you and he can DIY the Timing Belt?

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...manual-776021/

Squag27

The service manual will help a lot thanks! And the Padre is thinking it's probably the transmission at this point as well.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Ouch!
So, you're getting gear grinding when you engage the clutch in R;1;2;3;4?

You have to paint a clear picture as to what you are experiencing. Don't be afraid to provide details, because 'God is in the Details'.

Or have Steve chime in on here and let's here what his prognosis is. I know from reading his 'racing' posts that he is very articulate with details, just saying.

Squag27

Sorry if I'm being confusing. Gears 1 - 4 shift perfectly, though there is a noise coming from the car when letting off the clutch from a dead stop in 1st. 5th won't go in at all whether the car is on or off as of today, and 6th is harder to get into but will shift into gear without any grinding. Yesterday when I could still get it into 5th gear it wouldn't grind either.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

You are doing alright. It's just a 'hit or miss' proposition when trying to help via text.

One important question though. Have you, since owning the car, had a significant 'high speed/high rpm' misshift' in any gear, except reverse?

Squag27

Yeah about a day beforehand I think I had misshifted it. The shifter needs new base centering bushings so it can be problematic at times. However that shift was from 3rd to 2nd instead of 4th, not involving 5th or 6th.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Not sure I understand, are you talking about #5 on the link below?
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...ift-lever-scat

Just remember, when/where ever you take this car for a professional diagnosis, no matter how uncomfortable it may be to admit, you need to include details like that. I could go on 'cross examining' until the cows come home; however, I don't want to be a bigger PIA than I already have been.

My recommendation is:
1) Limp it into RickCase, pay the money, and have them diagnose it properly, if possible, without ripping it apart. Hopefully they can narrow it down and point you in the right direction.
OR
2) If you have, in mind already, a local Acura/Honda shop that is good at tranny work, once it is confirmed that it is, in fact, the tranny. Then get them to do the job and save a little when it comes to labor.


A fun detail worth sharing. I observed that your father was just logged in here earlier. He once asked me, back in the summer of 2004, IIRC, if he could drive my new SMR 6-speed. That was when he was working as a 'temp' in the Licensee Accounting Dept. at ANC Rental Car.

Oakroadsteve

Did you forget to share that you missed the downshift to 4th and grabbed 2nd gear in error with the corresponding jump of the tachometer migrating into the red zone?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Wow. When time/funds permit, try and get that TB done as soon as possible. Early on in this car's life, there was a problem with malfunctioning belt tensioners leaking, which in-turn, during an over-rev, could cause pistons to run into valves due to 'float'.

Squag27

Have a timing belt kit sitting in the garage to go on as soon as soon as this tranny issue gets resolved, thanks for your help with everything!

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Lol you got called out by your dad, savage.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Make sure and report back when all is said and done. I don't think there has been a 5th & 6th gear tranny issue here; so, it will be interesting to here what is found wrong, ultimately, with your car.

P.S. Make sure you get that 'shifter base' tightened up to keep your shift lever throws accurate.

lateralus

I know on my old integra type r when the clutch spring broke ... I couldnt get the car in 4th and 5th.. clutch pedal felt super stiff... new clutch and flywheel and I was back in business..

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, our clutches don't have springs, but it could give some hope that changing the PP + clutch will fix this. I've never seen someone have a problem with 5th and 6th gear in these transmissions.

Squag27

Just dropped it off at the transmission shop, from a test drive they seem to think it's all clutch related but I'll update once they yank the transmission out.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Nice! That sure would be alot easier on the pocket book, keep us in the loop.

Squag27, just a heads up. Don't know want size tires you are currently running and whether or not you experience 'wheel-hop' on your launches from a stop; none the less, there are stiffer front radius rod bushings available for the Accord that are a direct fit to yours and your fathers CL-S'. If you don't know what I'm talking about, refer to #10 & #11 on the link below:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...lower-arm-scat

The OEM ones are very soft from the factory; however, the ones from Energy Suspension (#16.7103) are very firm and will stiffen up the front to help reduce/eliminate 'wheel-hop'. Wheel hop is hard on the cv axles/LSD and differential bearings, so any upgrade is a plus. I don't know how 'mechanically inclined' you are; however, this upgrade is doable in the 'driveway' if you are a DIY'er.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/16.7103

Squag27

Thanks Zeta, yeah I can definitely handle suspension stuff so I'll have to look into the bushings. I'm pretty familiar with with Energy as I've used them to replace quite a few bushings in my '06 GTO including the radius rod bushings as well. Just can't wait to get the CL running again as it makes a much better daily for commuting

Squag27

FINAL UPDATE: Guess it was just the clutch after all, the car shifts perfectly now with a new clutch and flywheel. I had 2 motor mounts plus the rear main seal done at the same time so hopefully this clutch will last me! Only issue I have now is that the radio needs a code so I guess I'll be making a trip to Rick Case after all.

3.2cls6speedmt

how much did that cost you?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear!
I don't care about how much it cost you because I had mine replaced in Dec15 for $800+shop supplies and the cost of the FW/clutch kit , that I supplied at $350; however, it would be good to know, for future reference , what shop you entrusted this job to with the potential of a tranny rebuild?

It's up to you.

Squag27

Total cost out the door was a hair under $1,200, including new clutch, flywheel, rear main seal, and 2 motor mounts that were shot. Wasn't terrible and it drives way better now. I may go back tomorrow and get the old clutch for my wall of shame though. And the shop I took it to was called Aaction Transmission on Wiles and pine island, good people.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I'll keep them in mind, thanks.

I had mine done out of town on vacation in Central Florida while visiting relatives. The place is called First Class Automotive in Orlando. This is the place all of the NSX forum guys recommend if you break down up there.

First Class Automotive - Orlando FL Auto Repair and more!

It would be interesting to know/see how your original clutch looked after 126K and whether or not there is any visible signs of failure.

I did not have to look at my original, it was toast soon after the blower was installed; come to find out in Dec2015 at 150K, so were my differential bearings as a result of plenty of wheel hop, but I digress...

Squag27

Well I'm going back first thing to pick up the clutch if they haven't thrown it away and if I get it I'll post a pic of it

Squag27

Squag27

^^Couple pics of the culprit plus a shot of the car all back together again.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

holy chit, look at those heat scores!!
glad changing the clutch helped!

Oakroadsteve

Yes I worked with you M.C. and you were the "driving" force behind my purchasing a used 01 auto. It was the spring and summer of 03 if I recall. I worked for Rose R. and with A.K. and you were remembered fondly. Art and I are still very close btw. So you SC'd your SMR 6......it must still be a formidable vehicle to encounter on the roads of Broward and beyond. I'll share this verbal reunion with Arthur who now resides in Texas.

Oakroadsteve

It rides as good as it looks....

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

very clean, glad it all worked out! Some 3rd gen TL rims would look great on there and keep the oem look. After the break in period.....rematch!