Here is some Info on the 2G CL/TL transmission .. ATF filter change .. Solenoids..ect
 

I figured I would make a thread about our trannies and keeping them alive for you newbies.... I replaced the trans 3 times from ACURA and recently had it Rebuilt but a independent transmission shop.. I changed the ATF filter (which most dlrs dont even know about0 twice and fluid and many occasions so here it goes....

First off changing ATF filter.. Part #9 in this diagram..
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...s0k0_atm17.gif

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Some of you guys with a older transmission have this oil jet I have a newer (suposidly fixed tranny so DO NOT have the oil jet just a NUT there (this is where u fill the transmission fluid. If u have a oil jet there I belive u have a older transmission (this was acura's band-aid to the problem)

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Make sure that while removing the steel fluid line not to damage the o-ring. I replaced mine when I replaced my filter. Be sure to coat it with trans fluid before installing the line.

OK changing the fluid... Everyone says something different but here I go...
You can do a 3 X 3 (which is 9 quarts and ACURA calls a overhaul) some people say its 12 quarts but with my math 3 x 3 is 9..

Changing the transmission fluid is easier then changing the oil, underneath the trans there is a nut, unscrew that nut and about 3 quarts will drain from the trans. There is a magnet on the nut wipe the crud off it and put the nut back .
After you drain 3 and put nut back refill the fluid where the OILJET is (if you have no oiljet there is a nut that says ATF) and then drive through the gears make sure you use Reverse and all 5 gears.. After driving for 5-10 minutes through the gears repeat process as many times as you like.. Remeber the trans hold under 9 quarts so if you buy 9 and do this 3 times you will get most the fluids out but the dealer says only drain 3 and refill 3 quarts every 30K so do as you please..

This is where you fill the new fluid if you have a oil jet this is how it will look if you do not have a oil jet then they will be a bolt that says ATF on it!

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OK now this is how you replace 3rd and 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch.
If your trans is jerking I "heard" that replacing these will help the tranny shift smoother and maybee save your tranny... Some in the 2nd and 3rd gen TL replaced these switches and noticed alot of improvement in shifting quality.

Parts #12 and #13..

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...m0_atm0710.gif

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I hope this save some of you guys from what happen to me and spending $2500-$3500 on a new transmission... If you have ANY questions please just ask or PM me I had this car for over 9 years (got it in april 2000 pre ordered b4 it was released) and was on 260hp.com which morphed into this site and learned almost everything from you guys so might as well share what I learned with the new people getting this car and saving them some money!! I am a do-it yourself kinda "broke" guy that will try to fix everything myself and because of this site I saved ALOT of money!!

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ATF Filter.. Part # is on the bag..

we also have a main filter inside the trans. cant change that unless u open up the trans. if that one gets clogged or starts clogging

well I got the oil jet kit on mine. So i got the old trans but at least I'm not w/o the jet kit. LOL

That tq converter you recommended StonedCL looks really good.

I watched that 7min video on how it's made and it's impressive.

I really did not think nuttin of it when the first 2 or 3 rebuilders told me to make sure whomever rebuilds my trans uses that torque converter but like 4 or 5 rebuilders STRESSED that no matter where i go to get it rebuilt make sure I use that one.. Its funny cuz everytime I mentioned Torque converter for 5speed honda trans they all said the same thing.. When I went back to my guy and told him to try and use that one he started laughing and asked how I heard bout that company, and i told him some people recommended it to me and he said that he was planning on useing that TQ...
So there has to be summtin to it when a few different people are telling me the same thing! I just hope my trans hold up but with all the reinforcments he did to it I have a feeling that it will last..
Only time will tell..
What kinda fluid r u gonna use?

:thumbsup: how much for the filter?

wow thanks for the write-up:thumbsup:
this should come in handy.

Filter is about 40 bucks from the dealer.

I'm gonna use the redline ATF fluid, as my guy was telling me that's what he puts in all of his rebuilds and they've been getting more milage than the one from the factory are.

Normally he uses a different tq converter but I'm making him order mine from that company you mentioned after seeing the video I am SOLD.

So i'm getting that tq converter, new filterS, clutch packs, and w/e else needs a fixing, PLUS the comptech trans cooler.

All for 1600 PLUS the difference of the tq converter. Original price was 1400, so + 200 for the cooler, and add w/e extra for the tq converter and that's my total price... Cash, and Canadian DOLLAS.

Anyone local need comptech SHYT let me know and I'll ask my guy and he'll get w/e you want/need

Thats a GREAT PRICE... The soleniods and torque converter alone are about $1000, but he will prob reuse all the soleniods... When u mentiond the trans star TQ to your mechanic did he ever hear of them B4?

yes but he hadn't used them before. Nor had seen them in person.

BTW since we're on this topic. Where do you find these things in Canada? or must it be ordered?

My guy only orders them..
most good parts need to be ordered...
I dont know 1 part store around me that carries AMSOIL fluids/ EBC rotors/pads/ hawk pads only the cheap stuff like duralast/ac delco and other BS brands!

Good info. here.

Thanks Stoned. :thumbsup:

i am lucky then . 1 km from me is a performance shop name Johnson Research and Performance.

They sell ebs rotors pads... and soon DBA rotors.

And they can order in any fluids to my knowledge.

The Transtar DLR that I found on the net is also located IN MY CITY amazingly and is the EXACT same place my guy who's rebuilding my tranny goes to buy his parts for when he rebuilds transmissions. So I won't have to wait for them to ship it in or pay duty fees or any of that crap... wooohoooo.

So things are looking pretty good over here.

So I read this a couple times before I asked, so I didn't sound as bad :tomato:
So you drain the fluid until only 3 quarts come out? or about 3 will come out when you drain it? Then you put 3 back in, drive through the gears (1-5 + R) then drain again. Repeating as many times as you like. Do I have that right? My tranny has been feeling odd the past couple weeks. Its my second one (warranty replacement). I want to do this before I take it to the dealer and not have a car for another week while they replace it. I'm still covered under the warranty for the new tranny but there is that damn diagnostic fee you have to pay if it doesn't turn out to be what you thought it was.

about 3 quarts come out. Its pretty accurate, so just drain, dump 3 qts in and drive around. Repeat 2 more times. On the last time, just keep an eye out on the fluid level.

Thanks! So one last question. How do I monitor the fluid level? Just watch it as i'm pouring it in?

You can buy the big jugs at a auto parts store that is marked and then after you drain it just fill the jug to double check... I must have drained and filled my tranny 6-7 times during the period of almost 10 years owning my car and evry time when draining 3 quarts came out, give or take a few ounces..EVERY TIME.. so if you wanna double check spill what came out in a jug to check and just fill 3 quarts up, 3 bottles... You can also check useing the dip stick...

I would recomend not doing the 3x3 all in one day do it over a span of 3 oil changes... like drain 3 and fill 3 now then 3-5k later (next oile change) do anouther drain 3 and fill 3... Or for the first time do a 3 x 2 (6 quarts) cuz u dont wanna get all the build up of crud all out to get into the gears ..
So do a drain 3 and fill 3 then do it 2-3 more times at your next 2-3 oil changes...That my recomondation!!

Good luck!

when your finally filling up the tranny for the last time, put like 2.5 qts in and check the dipstick and monitor it that way. But it should be pretty close to 3 qts all the time.

Ok great, thanks for all the advice. I'm going to the auto store first thing tom to pick up the fluid. Prolly do the change this week when it stops raining. I like the idea of spreading the change over a couple oil changes. Sounds like a good idea.

Alright cool. Car has to be running to check tranny level doesn't it?

I think its off. It says in the owners manual though.

Oh alright. I don't have an owners manual. But I'll look into it.

Cl tranny
 

I'm looking at an 01 type S with 125K miles. I'm a paraplegic and can't get under or around to look at some of the things here. I used to be able to do a lot of my own maintenance, but no more. I'm getting a bit hesitant about buying one due to all the transmission issues. The Acura/Hondas are normally reliable as grandpa's pocket watch.

What should I look for? Got any tips? I'll try to get warranty for sure. Any way to tell what work has been done? I've got carfax, but how reliable are those entries? THANKS.

car fax is great, but if the owner didnt fix the car at and dealer ship or notify the insurance u wont know what was wrong.

If you look under the hood and see a Oil Jet where the filler bolt is then most likely its the original tranny and with 125K who knows how long it will hold up..You prob wanna stay away..
Also look at the sticker on the tranny if it is MGFA it might be a newer model tranny but some just got there tranny recently and got a BGFA so who knows..
Also someone said that the replacement trannies get blue bolts well mine did and thats what some people said was the case but who knows?
On the carfax it will not say if the tranny was replaced cuz mine was replaced by 2 diff dealers and it did not show up once on the car fax..Acura was secrative with the trannies I dont think they want anyone to know ezactly how many of them they replaced!

Had a torque converter built up on a performance build I did on a previous vehicle. Brazed fins, etc. Most decent transmission shops should be able to take care of it for ya. I later snapped the stator shaft (no idea how much torque you need to do that). Ooops.

Essential for high mileage vehicles
 

I have 157K my car and 55K on the 2nd trans.
I regularly change the ATF at 15K intervals (Mobil 1 Multi-Vehicle ATF). Lately I've been experiencing trans problems (sluggish shifting, Notchy & slow to engage in 1st gear . . .) so I decided to change the ATF filter yesterday.

Startling difference. Crisp shifts (up & down), 1st gear is tight again, feels almost like a new transmission.

Anyone experiencing these issues or driving a high mileage CL should invest an hour in this job. Well worth the cost & effort. Wish I had done this 100K miles ago.

I have a brand new tranny filter for sale in the BM. feel free to contact me in that thread or PM me if anyone is interested.

i got a new trans spet of 08 and that thing took a shit already with only 18K on it.....

Trans Fluid Change
 

Ok, I read the well-written instructions but this will be my first time and I still have a few questions. I have a late 2003 that had the oil jet installed as part of the recall. My questions are: 1.) When draining the fluid, should the nut and compression gasket be changed? I read in the first gen. forum that they both should be changed, but I never heard of changing the nut. The drain plug appears to take a square-type tool. I tried a 3/8" ratchet plug but it was too big. Do you know what size plug tool it takes? 3.) Once the oil jet is removed, does it require a new gasket? 4.) What type of ATF do you recommend? I was thinking of using synthetic but maybe I should stay with Honda parts??? Thanks,

Does any one know how much parts and labour are on the pressure switches ????

I would use AMSOIL ATF or just stick with honda Z1 , when I had my tranny rebuilt the guy used Amsoil and its holing up great and the fluid still smells and looks new after 7-8K miles. I would not mix though but that is tottally up to you , I always wanted to switch to synthetic B4 my tranny was rebuilt but doing the 3 x 3 method you are ALWAYS mixing the synthtic with the normal Z1, I have no clue if that bad for the tranny , I just WOULD NOT DO IT, so when I had my tranny replaced i started off with the Amsoil ATF.
Hope this all helps!

Stoned CL,
Thanks for the ATF info; I'll just stick with Honda Z1. Since my 2003 had the oil jet installed with the recall, would you know whether I need to replace a gasket of some sorts when I remove the oil jet? Someone mentioned about replacing the drain plug and gasket when you change the fluid; is this what you did?

yes when i got mine renuilt by the acura mechanic he specifically said to not use anything but the OEM fluid. Because it is designed for the metals they use. and synthetic doesn't work as well with our trannys. i forgot the reason why. but all i know is to ONLY use the OEM stuff. and you'll be good. Just change fluid every 30K and atf filter

i HAVE NOT HAD THE OILD jeT in my last 2 transmissions , when I did flush when I took those pics when I had the oil jet I just replaced the crush washer .

StonedCL put up a DIY on changing out the switches and its on the service manual too, i believe. I ordered the 3rd gear switch and it was about 58 dollars.

I know but is hard to see whats going on I think im going to got to my transmission guy ( I hate transmissions)