Hard Clutch
#1
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Hard Clutch
This is confusing me. I recently started to notice this. I first noticed it when I was getting on the car through first and second. After that I pressed the clutch in and it was harder then normal. Seemed like there was more pressure needed to get the clutch to the floor.
Didnt really think to much about it until it happened again. Then I found out if I give it anymore then about 50% throttle the clutch gets harder then normal. Does anyone have an idea of why it would do this?
Didnt really think to much about it until it happened again. Then I found out if I give it anymore then about 50% throttle the clutch gets harder then normal. Does anyone have an idea of why it would do this?
#5
Originally Posted by weaselbob74
Clutch dampening. I think it is normal. It's like "sports mode". I think it happens when VTEC kicks in (4700 rpm 6 Speed).
It goes away after a min or two.
It goes away after a min or two.
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#8
07 ASM TL
Originally Posted by Starter
Um, don't think so.
#9
Originally Posted by weaselbob74
What do you mean you don't think so? Do you have a 6 speed? Doesn't your clutch get really tight after you get on it?
If that is what is actually happening, then there is something wrong. Could be the throw out bearing or, perhaps, low fluid.
#10
I now drive an accord....
Originally Posted by weaselbob74
Clutch dampening. I think it is normal. It's like "sports mode". I think it happens when VTEC kicks in (4700 rpm 6 Speed).
It goes away after a min or two.
It goes away after a min or two.
Originally Posted by weaselbob74
Do you have a 6 speed? Doesn't your clutch get really tight after you get on it?
Starter is correct the OP should get this checked out, cause it isn't normal
#12
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Originally Posted by Starter
If that is what is actually happening, then there is something wrong. Could be the throw out bearing or, perhaps, low fluid.
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How could a throwout bearing affect the clutch feel? Its only after a quick sprint and it only last about 10 seconds then its back to normal. I believe the fluid is fine, ill double check tho.
#15
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Look, i too thought the hydraulics in the clutch had nothing to do with the engine itself...i mean u can normally press the clutch when the engine is off so that makes sence.
but, in my 06 tl, if u're sittin in neutral and rev the engine, it does the same thing the power steering does, they get lighter/easier to press...i don't even know why
let's say, put it in neutral, then press the clutch about half way...then rev the engine significantly (limiter), and your clutch will sink by itself because the pressure required to press it decreases somehow.
not imagining this, i think it might have something to do with that clutch system the tl has of where if you drop the clutch too fast, it won't just drop but rather it will smoothen out the engagung to prevent damage to the drivetrain from a jolt of a dropped clutch.
now, mine gets lighter with revs, like power steering, but why yours gets harder is something even more confusing, on top of that.
but, in my 06 tl, if u're sittin in neutral and rev the engine, it does the same thing the power steering does, they get lighter/easier to press...i don't even know why
let's say, put it in neutral, then press the clutch about half way...then rev the engine significantly (limiter), and your clutch will sink by itself because the pressure required to press it decreases somehow.
not imagining this, i think it might have something to do with that clutch system the tl has of where if you drop the clutch too fast, it won't just drop but rather it will smoothen out the engagung to prevent damage to the drivetrain from a jolt of a dropped clutch.
now, mine gets lighter with revs, like power steering, but why yours gets harder is something even more confusing, on top of that.
#16
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by vincethe1
Look, i too thought the hydraulics in the clutch had nothing to do with the engine itself...i mean u can normally press the clutch when the engine is off so that makes sence.
but, in my 06 tl, if u're sittin in neutral and rev the engine, it does the same thing the power steering does, they get lighter/easier to press...i don't even know why
let's say, put it in neutral, then press the clutch about half way...then rev the engine significantly (limiter), and your clutch will sink by itself because the pressure required to press it decreases somehow.
not imagining this, i think it might have something to do with that clutch system the tl has of where if you drop the clutch too fast, it won't just drop but rather it will smoothen out the engagung to prevent damage to the drivetrain from a jolt of a dropped clutch.
now, mine gets light with revs, like power steering, but why yours gets harder is something even more confusing, on top of that.
but, in my 06 tl, if u're sittin in neutral and rev the engine, it does the same thing the power steering does, they get lighter/easier to press...i don't even know why
let's say, put it in neutral, then press the clutch about half way...then rev the engine significantly (limiter), and your clutch will sink by itself because the pressure required to press it decreases somehow.
not imagining this, i think it might have something to do with that clutch system the tl has of where if you drop the clutch too fast, it won't just drop but rather it will smoothen out the engagung to prevent damage to the drivetrain from a jolt of a dropped clutch.
now, mine gets light with revs, like power steering, but why yours gets harder is something even more confusing, on top of that.
#17
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Dont know the differences in the clutch between the TL and the CL but the CL is a closed hydraulic system that has no bearing on RPM or throttle. We also dont have drive by wire throttle like the 3rd gen TL.
#18
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i still think you have sticky throw out bearing, or a weak pressure plate, or a combo of both. just my
edit: also /\/\ engine speed does play into effect b/c the clutch assembly is spinning. so there is rotational force, its possible that b/c of something else (like the bearing or pressure plate) it feels different when its spinning faster.
maybe its time to take it a reputable shop and have them look at it.
edit: also /\/\ engine speed does play into effect b/c the clutch assembly is spinning. so there is rotational force, its possible that b/c of something else (like the bearing or pressure plate) it feels different when its spinning faster.
maybe its time to take it a reputable shop and have them look at it.
#19
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i dunno.. when i first got my car (used)
the friction point was (and still is) around the midway point of the clutch pedal travel. whenever i got on the car (WOT), the friction point dropped to about 1cm from the floor, and was pretty stiff. and when i started driving normally, it would go back to the midway of the travel..
i thought it was normal.. my car still does this.. i find it very useful because i can drive sedately in normal traffic but when i'm getting on the car, the clutch goes more 'sporty'
the friction point was (and still is) around the midway point of the clutch pedal travel. whenever i got on the car (WOT), the friction point dropped to about 1cm from the floor, and was pretty stiff. and when i started driving normally, it would go back to the midway of the travel..
i thought it was normal.. my car still does this.. i find it very useful because i can drive sedately in normal traffic but when i'm getting on the car, the clutch goes more 'sporty'
#21
07 ASM TL
Originally Posted by rp_guy
i dunno.. when i first got my car (used)
the friction point was (and still is) around the midway point of the clutch pedal travel. whenever i got on the car (WOT), the friction point dropped to about 1cm from the floor, and was pretty stiff. and when i started driving normally, it would go back to the midway of the travel..
i thought it was normal.. my car still does this.. i find it very useful because i can drive sedately in normal traffic but when i'm getting on the car, the clutch goes more 'sporty'
the friction point was (and still is) around the midway point of the clutch pedal travel. whenever i got on the car (WOT), the friction point dropped to about 1cm from the floor, and was pretty stiff. and when i started driving normally, it would go back to the midway of the travel..
i thought it was normal.. my car still does this.. i find it very useful because i can drive sedately in normal traffic but when i'm getting on the car, the clutch goes more 'sporty'
#22
03 CL-S MT
Its Funny You Mention This Because I Own A 2003 Cltype S And It Does The Same Thing. It Gets Hard When Im Running It Hard And I To This Day Have No Idea What It Is. Ive Had All The Fluids Checked And Replaced But It Doesnt Always Do It. Im Guessing It Has To Do With The Pressure Plate And Clutch. I Guess The Only Way To Find Out Is To Take Him To The Mechanic To Get A Check Up.
#23
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Just to add my 2 cents, I also have a 2003 Type-S with a MT, with the exact same situation. When I rev high enough that VTEC kicks in, then the next few times I shift, the clutch is slightly stiffer and the release point for the clutch is way sooner than normal.
#27
Bump - any update on this? How is your clutch doing now (a year later)? I have had my car now for over 5 years. In the last 3 or so months my clutch has started doing this exact same thing.
It never did it before.
Whenever I get on the throttle hard, pulling all the way to 7K RPM, for about 10 - 15 seconds after, or about 2 or 3 clutch depressings, I notice this behavior. The harder I get on the throttle/accelerate, the easier it is to reproduce. Right after I accelerate hard, when I depress the clutch to disengage the engine to shift to the next gear, the clutch feels sticky like, and it seems like I have to press it just a tad farther to the floor (than normal) to get it to completely disengage.
Clutch fluid is seems to be fine - I checked it. There does not seem to be any clutch slippage or anything like that... Clutch seems to function fine other than this.
Anyone else notice this?
It never did it before.
Whenever I get on the throttle hard, pulling all the way to 7K RPM, for about 10 - 15 seconds after, or about 2 or 3 clutch depressings, I notice this behavior. The harder I get on the throttle/accelerate, the easier it is to reproduce. Right after I accelerate hard, when I depress the clutch to disengage the engine to shift to the next gear, the clutch feels sticky like, and it seems like I have to press it just a tad farther to the floor (than normal) to get it to completely disengage.
Clutch fluid is seems to be fine - I checked it. There does not seem to be any clutch slippage or anything like that... Clutch seems to function fine other than this.
Anyone else notice this?
#28
CL-S 6Speed is rarely in
My pedal definitely feels "tighter" after a hard run. I really think its normal. It only lasts for a few moments after I run the car hard thought the first couple gears. Done this since the day I bought it (jan 08). If your not expecting the "tightness," it can cause a kinda hard shift which can get annoying. It always goes right back to normal and only happens when I accelerate very hard. Its got to be normal. Seems like too many others have the same issue and never noticed anything to be wrong/broken b/c of it.
Have those that did the clutch dampener bypass notice if they had the issue prior to the bypass and now don't???
Have those that did the clutch dampener bypass notice if they had the issue prior to the bypass and now don't???
#30
CL-S 6Speed is rarely in
So the throw-out bearing is only effected during high rev shifts? Maybe I need to be better informed on the subject but why is it fine during normal driving? I assume the throw-out bearing is only effected during high rpms?
#31
Can anyone who has experienced this issue confirm replacing their "throw out bearing" did in fact resolve the problem?
Also, any information on how the throw out bearing would cause this? I would like to understand it better for my own knowledge.
I agree that this behavior is not normal, as my car did not use to do this. I just want to understand fully so I can talk intelligently to the dealer (if I need to take it in)...
Also, any information on how the throw out bearing would cause this? I would like to understand it better for my own knowledge.
I agree that this behavior is not normal, as my car did not use to do this. I just want to understand fully so I can talk intelligently to the dealer (if I need to take it in)...
#32
I have the exact same problem noted above guys... as far as I know I'm still on stock clutch around 70k.
Clutch engages really funny after a couple spirited shifts...
I don't think this is a possibility, as the system is entirely outside of the transmission as far as I know, but could this be related to heat (i.e. brake fade). Though I don't think the fluid would ever heat up enough for this to become an issue.
Clutch engages really funny after a couple spirited shifts...
I don't think this is a possibility, as the system is entirely outside of the transmission as far as I know, but could this be related to heat (i.e. brake fade). Though I don't think the fluid would ever heat up enough for this to become an issue.
#33
Just a quick update. I took my car into a trusted shop for inspection yesterday and mentioned this to my mechanic.
His answer makes sense to me. He believes this is the Master cylinder causing this. I probably don't have all the exact details right as we only spoke briefly. There is a rubber seal/boot inside the Master cylinder that gets worn out over time. During hard shifting, greater pressure is exerted on this rubber seal (vs. normal less aggressive driving). This causes the rubber to expand/stretch. Which is why the clutch loses pressure for the next couple of depressions, but then returns to normal after you pump the clutch a few times.
Makes sense to me... And explains why several of us are having this same issue...
My car is still under extended warranty, so I am going to have them replace the master/slave cylinders. I'll write back in once this work is complete to confirm if this truly fixes the issue.
His answer makes sense to me. He believes this is the Master cylinder causing this. I probably don't have all the exact details right as we only spoke briefly. There is a rubber seal/boot inside the Master cylinder that gets worn out over time. During hard shifting, greater pressure is exerted on this rubber seal (vs. normal less aggressive driving). This causes the rubber to expand/stretch. Which is why the clutch loses pressure for the next couple of depressions, but then returns to normal after you pump the clutch a few times.
Makes sense to me... And explains why several of us are having this same issue...
My car is still under extended warranty, so I am going to have them replace the master/slave cylinders. I'll write back in once this work is complete to confirm if this truly fixes the issue.
#35
Burning Brakes
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Just a quick update. I took my car into a trusted shop for inspection yesterday and mentioned this to my mechanic.
His answer makes sense to me. He believes this is the Master cylinder causing this. I probably don't have all the exact details right as we only spoke briefly. There is a rubber seal/boot inside the Master cylinder that gets worn out over time. During hard shifting, greater pressure is exerted on this rubber seal (vs. normal less aggressive driving). This causes the rubber to expand/stretch. Which is why the clutch loses pressure for the next couple of depressions, but then returns to normal after you pump the clutch a few times.
Makes sense to me... And explains why several of us are having this same issue...
My car is still under extended warranty, so I am going to have them replace the master/slave cylinders. I'll write back in once this work is complete to confirm if this truly fixes the issue.
His answer makes sense to me. He believes this is the Master cylinder causing this. I probably don't have all the exact details right as we only spoke briefly. There is a rubber seal/boot inside the Master cylinder that gets worn out over time. During hard shifting, greater pressure is exerted on this rubber seal (vs. normal less aggressive driving). This causes the rubber to expand/stretch. Which is why the clutch loses pressure for the next couple of depressions, but then returns to normal after you pump the clutch a few times.
Makes sense to me... And explains why several of us are having this same issue...
My car is still under extended warranty, so I am going to have them replace the master/slave cylinders. I'll write back in once this work is complete to confirm if this truly fixes the issue.
#36
I now drive an accord....
Just a quick update. I took my car into a trusted shop for inspection yesterday and mentioned this to my mechanic.
His answer makes sense to me. He believes this is the Master cylinder causing this. I probably don't have all the exact details right as we only spoke briefly. There is a rubber seal/boot inside the Master cylinder that gets worn out over time. During hard shifting, greater pressure is exerted on this rubber seal (vs. normal less aggressive driving). This causes the rubber to expand/stretch. Which is why the clutch loses pressure for the next couple of depressions, but then returns to normal after you pump the clutch a few times.
Makes sense to me... And explains why several of us are having this same issue...
My car is still under extended warranty, so I am going to have them replace the master/slave cylinders. I'll write back in once this work is complete to confirm if this truly fixes the issue.
His answer makes sense to me. He believes this is the Master cylinder causing this. I probably don't have all the exact details right as we only spoke briefly. There is a rubber seal/boot inside the Master cylinder that gets worn out over time. During hard shifting, greater pressure is exerted on this rubber seal (vs. normal less aggressive driving). This causes the rubber to expand/stretch. Which is why the clutch loses pressure for the next couple of depressions, but then returns to normal after you pump the clutch a few times.
Makes sense to me... And explains why several of us are having this same issue...
My car is still under extended warranty, so I am going to have them replace the master/slave cylinders. I'll write back in once this work is complete to confirm if this truly fixes the issue.
#39
This same exact thing just started happening to my car at 125,000 miles. Did anyone replace the master cylinder to confirm kbc5960 mechanic's theory? How much is the master cylinder anyways + repair costs?
#40
Just a quick update:
I finally got around to replacing the master/slave clutch cylinders myself this past weekend. My extended warranty did not cover the clutch (go figure). The price for parts was $175. I got the master and slave cylinders directly from the Acura dealership.
All is good. The project took about 3 hours, but I did not do any research ahead of time - just kind of figured it out as I went. The clutch is MUCH better, and feels very good. No more going to the floor after aggresive shifting.
I finally got around to replacing the master/slave clutch cylinders myself this past weekend. My extended warranty did not cover the clutch (go figure). The price for parts was $175. I got the master and slave cylinders directly from the Acura dealership.
All is good. The project took about 3 hours, but I did not do any research ahead of time - just kind of figured it out as I went. The clutch is MUCH better, and feels very good. No more going to the floor after aggresive shifting.