Griffin Radiator Install - Write Up and Pictures
03-18-2007, 12:40 PM
#1
Griffin Radiator Install - Write Up and Pictures
Ah yes, what many, or at least some have been waiting for. Those who know me, understand that I only put quality parts on my car and push limits and expectations that exceed my own so when I am done, the final product is outstanding.
First off, this product WILL be available through Josh (Excelerate). I know he is probably going to chew me out for not running this by him first, but just contact him and he will be more than happy to take your orders. Basically I was the guinea pig for the CL-S. Please make sure you contact him because you will not find this radiator anywhere else.
Also thanks to Chirag (njzprettyboy) for kicking my ass to get this done. I had been wanting to do this for awhile but he made most of this happen by contacting companies for me. Josh put it all together for us at a great price.
Here are some teaser pictures, I took tons of pictures of the install process to make this dummy proof and I am doing a write up on this. I will update this post later today.
Parts and Tools:
Integra Radiator Cap
10mm socket (i prefer deep socket)
Wratchet
19mm Crescent Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver
Pliers
Threadlocker Blue by Permatex
2 Gallons of Antifreeze
Rag
Drain pan
Step 0:
I had modified my battery tray so I'm not sure exactly where the overflow coolant tank is attached. It should just slide off the mounting tray. You may be able to do the install without moving it, just take the tube off the radiator.
Step 1:
Disconnect the 3 plugs as shown below. There are some plastic clips holding the wire harness to the fan shroud, they should just pop out. There is 1 more plug on the left side of the radiator facing out towards the alternator. You should be able to follow the harness down. I just removed the plug from the shroud entirely and zip tied it to the side, this will make more room for the install later.
Step 2:
I found it difficult to remove the drain plug so I did something a little different. I removed the upper radiator hose. Then I removed both mounting brackets.
Step 3:
Now you can just slide the radiator up fairly easily, taking care to watch the wire harness on the left. Now you can access the drain plug fairly easily. Just loosen it enough, but do not fully open it yet. Slide the radiator back down. Now you can remove the plug from the top (if your arm is small enough) or from the access hole in the bottom and let the radiator drain.
Step 4:
Once the radiator has drained, just slide it up again to easily remove the lower radiator hose. Some more fluid will come out of the hose, but now you can pull the whole radiator out.
Step 5:
Lay both radiators next to each other side by side so that the fan shrouds are facing up. First remove the LEFT fan and set it aside.
Step 6:
Now remove the bolts for the fan on the RIGHT.
Step 7:
You will notice a sensor attached to the right fan shroud that goes into the radiator. Use your 19mm crescent to remove the sensor. Transfer this sensor and fan shroud over to the new radiator. Make sure to clean the threads on the sensor. Use your threadlock blue on the sensor's threads and screw it into the radiator. You may feel some resistance, just make sure you have it going in straight and that it finally sits flush on the new radiator.
Step 8:
You will notice I only mounted the one fan. This will make getting the new radiator in place much easier. Since this is larger radiator, you need to squeeze it into place. Make sure the rubber mounts are in place on the frame for the pegs to go into. Attach the lower radiator house first. Then slide the new radiator in and use your hand to feel the bottom peg/mount to align it properly on each side. Attach your upper radiator hose and coolant overflow tank.
Step 9:
Now before you get ahead of yourself, here is a trick I did to get everything to fit much better. Pull the radiator towards the front of the car with some force. This will help align the mounting brackets and also clear the alternator. Here are some pictures showing the areas to look for to get it to fit into place. The sides will bend slightly to let it maneuver where you want it.
Step 10:
Now you can bolt down the mounting brackets. First put the bracket onto the beg, then push down so the tab slides into the frame. You can use the screwdriver to help lock it into place. Then you can attach the bolts. After this you can mount the second fan into place. Use your hand to feel the pegs on the shroud and guide them into the mounts on the radiator, once lined up just use moderate force to lock the pegs into place and bolt down the shroud.
Step 11:
I filled up the radiator with a little over 1 gallon of coolant until there was coolant just trickling into the overflow tank. Start your car and let it run until at normal idling temperature. It will bleed itself for the most part. You may get some coolant bubbling out but thats fine. Let it do it's thing. You can help it along by 'burping' it by squeezing the top hose.
Step 12:
You can put your heater on full blast to make sure the air is out. Place the cap on and your done. Take it for a test drive and make sure the temperature needle stays where it should. You may get some 'smoke' coming out of the engine bay, it is probably from liquids getting on to your headers. I didn't have to touch the drain spout, there was a metal one in place that was already tightened, but just make sure it is fully tightened.
First off, this product WILL be available through Josh (Excelerate). I know he is probably going to chew me out for not running this by him first, but just contact him and he will be more than happy to take your orders. Basically I was the guinea pig for the CL-S. Please make sure you contact him because you will not find this radiator anywhere else.
Also thanks to Chirag (njzprettyboy) for kicking my ass to get this done. I had been wanting to do this for awhile but he made most of this happen by contacting companies for me. Josh put it all together for us at a great price.
Here are some teaser pictures, I took tons of pictures of the install process to make this dummy proof and I am doing a write up on this. I will update this post later today.
Parts and Tools:
Integra Radiator Cap
10mm socket (i prefer deep socket)
Wratchet
19mm Crescent Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver
Pliers
Threadlocker Blue by Permatex
2 Gallons of Antifreeze
Rag
Drain pan
Step 0:
I had modified my battery tray so I'm not sure exactly where the overflow coolant tank is attached. It should just slide off the mounting tray. You may be able to do the install without moving it, just take the tube off the radiator.
Step 1:
Disconnect the 3 plugs as shown below. There are some plastic clips holding the wire harness to the fan shroud, they should just pop out. There is 1 more plug on the left side of the radiator facing out towards the alternator. You should be able to follow the harness down. I just removed the plug from the shroud entirely and zip tied it to the side, this will make more room for the install later.
Step 2:
I found it difficult to remove the drain plug so I did something a little different. I removed the upper radiator hose. Then I removed both mounting brackets.
Step 3:
Now you can just slide the radiator up fairly easily, taking care to watch the wire harness on the left. Now you can access the drain plug fairly easily. Just loosen it enough, but do not fully open it yet. Slide the radiator back down. Now you can remove the plug from the top (if your arm is small enough) or from the access hole in the bottom and let the radiator drain.
Step 4:
Once the radiator has drained, just slide it up again to easily remove the lower radiator hose. Some more fluid will come out of the hose, but now you can pull the whole radiator out.
Step 5:
Lay both radiators next to each other side by side so that the fan shrouds are facing up. First remove the LEFT fan and set it aside.
Step 6:
Now remove the bolts for the fan on the RIGHT.
Step 7:
You will notice a sensor attached to the right fan shroud that goes into the radiator. Use your 19mm crescent to remove the sensor. Transfer this sensor and fan shroud over to the new radiator. Make sure to clean the threads on the sensor. Use your threadlock blue on the sensor's threads and screw it into the radiator. You may feel some resistance, just make sure you have it going in straight and that it finally sits flush on the new radiator.
Step 8:
You will notice I only mounted the one fan. This will make getting the new radiator in place much easier. Since this is larger radiator, you need to squeeze it into place. Make sure the rubber mounts are in place on the frame for the pegs to go into. Attach the lower radiator house first. Then slide the new radiator in and use your hand to feel the bottom peg/mount to align it properly on each side. Attach your upper radiator hose and coolant overflow tank.
Step 9:
Now before you get ahead of yourself, here is a trick I did to get everything to fit much better. Pull the radiator towards the front of the car with some force. This will help align the mounting brackets and also clear the alternator. Here are some pictures showing the areas to look for to get it to fit into place. The sides will bend slightly to let it maneuver where you want it.
Step 10:
Now you can bolt down the mounting brackets. First put the bracket onto the beg, then push down so the tab slides into the frame. You can use the screwdriver to help lock it into place. Then you can attach the bolts. After this you can mount the second fan into place. Use your hand to feel the pegs on the shroud and guide them into the mounts on the radiator, once lined up just use moderate force to lock the pegs into place and bolt down the shroud.
Step 11:
I filled up the radiator with a little over 1 gallon of coolant until there was coolant just trickling into the overflow tank. Start your car and let it run until at normal idling temperature. It will bleed itself for the most part. You may get some coolant bubbling out but thats fine. Let it do it's thing. You can help it along by 'burping' it by squeezing the top hose.
Step 12:
You can put your heater on full blast to make sure the air is out. Place the cap on and your done. Take it for a test drive and make sure the temperature needle stays where it should. You may get some 'smoke' coming out of the engine bay, it is probably from liquids getting on to your headers. I didn't have to touch the drain spout, there was a metal one in place that was already tightened, but just make sure it is fully tightened.
03-18-2007, 01:40 PM
#3
My only car is a Bus
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Republik of Kalifornia
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
I only put quality parts on my car and push limits and expectations that exceed my own so when I am done, the final product is outstanding.
I am interested in the outcome, however.
03-18-2007, 02:40 PM
#5
can a mod replace the first post with this one?
Parts and Tools:
Integra Radiator Cap
10mm socket (i prefer deep socket)
Wratchet
19mm Crescent Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver
Pliers
Threadlocker Blue by Permatex
2 Gallons of Antifreeze
Rag
Drain pan
Step 0:
I had modified my battery tray so I'm not sure exactly where the overflow coolant tank is attached. It should just slide off the mounting tray. You may be able to do the install without moving it, just take the tube off the radiator.
Step 1:
Disconnect the 3 plugs as shown below. There are some plastic clips holding the wire harness to the fan shroud, they should just pop out. There is 1 more plug on the left side of the radiator facing out towards the alternator. You should be able to follow the harness down. I just removed the plug from the shroud entirely and zip tied it to the side, this will make more room for the install later.
Step 2:
I found it difficult to remove the drain plug so I did something a little different. I removed the upper radiator hose. Then I removed both mounting brackets.
Step 3:
Now you can just slide the radiator up fairly easily, taking care to watch the wire harness on the left. Now you can access the drain plug fairly easily. Just loosen it enough, but do not fully open it yet. Slide the radiator back down. Now you can remove the plug from the top (if your arm is small enough) or from the access hole in the bottom and let the radiator drain.
Step 4:
Once the radiator has drained, just slide it up again to easily remove the lower radiator hose. Some more fluid will come out of the hose, but now you can pull the whole radiator out.
Step 5:
Lay both radiators next to each other side by side so that the fan shrouds are facing up. First remove the LEFT fan and set it aside.
Step 6:
Now remove the bolts for the fan on the RIGHT.
Step 7:
You will notice a sensor attached to the right fan shroud that goes into the radiator. Use your 19mm crescent to remove the sensor. Transfer this sensor and fan shroud over to the new radiator. Make sure to clean the threads on the sensor. Use your threadlock blue on the sensor's threads and screw it into the radiator. You may feel some resistance, just make sure you have it going in straight and that it finally sits flush on the new radiator.
Step 8:
You will notice I only mounted the one fan. This will make getting the new radiator in place much easier. Since this is larger radiator, you need to squeeze it into place. Make sure the rubber mounts are in place on the frame for the pegs to go into. Attach the lower radiator house first. Then slide the new radiator in and use your hand to feel the bottom peg/mount to align it properly on each side. Attach your upper radiator hose and coolant overflow tank.
Step 9:
Now before you get ahead of yourself, here is a trick I did to get everything to fit much better. Pull the radiator towards the front of the car with some force. This will help align the mounting brackets and also clear the alternator. Here are some pictures showing the areas to look for to get it to fit into place. The sides will bend slightly to let it maneuver where you want it.
Step 10:
Now you can bolt down the mounting brackets. First put the bracket onto the beg, then push down so the tab slides into the frame. You can use the screwdriver to help lock it into place. Then you can attach the bolts. After this you can mount the second fan into place. Use your hand to feel the pegs on the shroud and guide them into the mounts on the radiator, once lined up just use moderate force to lock the pegs into place and bolt down the shroud.
Step 11:
I filled up the radiator with a little over 1 gallon of coolant until there was coolant just trickling into the overflow tank. Start your car and let it run until at normal idling temperature. It will bleed itself for the most part. You may get some coolant bubbling out but thats fine. Let it do it's thing. You can help it along by 'burping' it by squeezing the top hose.
Step 12:
You can put your heater on full blast to make sure the air is out. Place the cap on and your done. Take it for a test drive and make sure the temperature needle stays where it should. You may get some 'smoke' coming out of the engine bay, it is probably from liquids getting on to your headers. I didn't have to touch the drain spout, there was a metal one in place that was already tightened, but just make sure it is fully tightened.
Parts and Tools:
Integra Radiator Cap
10mm socket (i prefer deep socket)
Wratchet
19mm Crescent Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver
Pliers
Threadlocker Blue by Permatex
2 Gallons of Antifreeze
Rag
Drain pan
Step 0:
I had modified my battery tray so I'm not sure exactly where the overflow coolant tank is attached. It should just slide off the mounting tray. You may be able to do the install without moving it, just take the tube off the radiator.
Step 1:
Disconnect the 3 plugs as shown below. There are some plastic clips holding the wire harness to the fan shroud, they should just pop out. There is 1 more plug on the left side of the radiator facing out towards the alternator. You should be able to follow the harness down. I just removed the plug from the shroud entirely and zip tied it to the side, this will make more room for the install later.
Step 2:
I found it difficult to remove the drain plug so I did something a little different. I removed the upper radiator hose. Then I removed both mounting brackets.
Step 3:
Now you can just slide the radiator up fairly easily, taking care to watch the wire harness on the left. Now you can access the drain plug fairly easily. Just loosen it enough, but do not fully open it yet. Slide the radiator back down. Now you can remove the plug from the top (if your arm is small enough) or from the access hole in the bottom and let the radiator drain.
Step 4:
Once the radiator has drained, just slide it up again to easily remove the lower radiator hose. Some more fluid will come out of the hose, but now you can pull the whole radiator out.
Step 5:
Lay both radiators next to each other side by side so that the fan shrouds are facing up. First remove the LEFT fan and set it aside.
Step 6:
Now remove the bolts for the fan on the RIGHT.
Step 7:
You will notice a sensor attached to the right fan shroud that goes into the radiator. Use your 19mm crescent to remove the sensor. Transfer this sensor and fan shroud over to the new radiator. Make sure to clean the threads on the sensor. Use your threadlock blue on the sensor's threads and screw it into the radiator. You may feel some resistance, just make sure you have it going in straight and that it finally sits flush on the new radiator.
Step 8:
You will notice I only mounted the one fan. This will make getting the new radiator in place much easier. Since this is larger radiator, you need to squeeze it into place. Make sure the rubber mounts are in place on the frame for the pegs to go into. Attach the lower radiator house first. Then slide the new radiator in and use your hand to feel the bottom peg/mount to align it properly on each side. Attach your upper radiator hose and coolant overflow tank.
Step 9:
Now before you get ahead of yourself, here is a trick I did to get everything to fit much better. Pull the radiator towards the front of the car with some force. This will help align the mounting brackets and also clear the alternator. Here are some pictures showing the areas to look for to get it to fit into place. The sides will bend slightly to let it maneuver where you want it.
Step 10:
Now you can bolt down the mounting brackets. First put the bracket onto the beg, then push down so the tab slides into the frame. You can use the screwdriver to help lock it into place. Then you can attach the bolts. After this you can mount the second fan into place. Use your hand to feel the pegs on the shroud and guide them into the mounts on the radiator, once lined up just use moderate force to lock the pegs into place and bolt down the shroud.
Step 11:
I filled up the radiator with a little over 1 gallon of coolant until there was coolant just trickling into the overflow tank. Start your car and let it run until at normal idling temperature. It will bleed itself for the most part. You may get some coolant bubbling out but thats fine. Let it do it's thing. You can help it along by 'burping' it by squeezing the top hose.
Step 12:
You can put your heater on full blast to make sure the air is out. Place the cap on and your done. Take it for a test drive and make sure the temperature needle stays where it should. You may get some 'smoke' coming out of the engine bay, it is probably from liquids getting on to your headers. I didn't have to touch the drain spout, there was a metal one in place that was already tightened, but just make sure it is fully tightened.
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03-18-2007, 05:20 PM
#8
i took thermal temperature readings and such prior to the install. but the streets are still kind of icey so before i can push the car and see how the temps do we shall see. all i know is that prior my engine got very hot. i'm hoping this helps. i'm looking into some custom radiator hoses for our cars too because a lot of heat gets thrown right into the throttle body/intake from our current hoses. i drained less than half a gallon from my stock radiator, but this new one took over a gallon to fill up.
03-18-2007, 05:27 PM
#10
this isn't the kind of thing that will really show a number on a dyno. keep in mind your stock radiator was designed to cool your stock motor. the more mods you do and the more power you make, the hotter your engine gets. inital power would probably be the same, but if you are in hot climate, run your car hard, or have serious modifications, the longer you run the car the hotter it gets. eventually your stock radiator will get to a point where it cannot cool it down to the lowest possible temperature, so you would be losing power. also this radiator would last the life of the car. no epoxy and no clamped fins. its all top notch welds. as our cars get older, people will need to be replacing radiators, so this will be an option i foresee becoming popular especially with supercharged guys.
03-18-2007, 08:30 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2004
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^^ should fit if this is what i believe Chirag has...
jeremy, its getting warm out soon, wahts good with my coilovers? haha, i got you on the black trim
would we have to remove the charger to get this in?
jeremy, its getting warm out soon, wahts good with my coilovers? haha, i got you on the black trim
would we have to remove the charger to get this in?
03-18-2007, 09:08 PM
#16
those with blowers will have no issues, you just need to specify you have a blower because the upper spout will be made into 90 degrees as shown below for plenty of clearance, picture courtesy of chirag
price will be determined by josh.
lighter than stock? no. what we have here is FULL aluminum, NO plastic end tanks, tanks have increased in size, the core has increased in size. but it is not very heavy at all. only a few lbs more than stock.
mike - we have to chat about it. i have no more free time during the week anymore. so it'll have to be a weekend. i'll let you know.
price will be determined by josh.
lighter than stock? no. what we have here is FULL aluminum, NO plastic end tanks, tanks have increased in size, the core has increased in size. but it is not very heavy at all. only a few lbs more than stock.
mike - we have to chat about it. i have no more free time during the week anymore. so it'll have to be a weekend. i'll let you know.
03-18-2007, 09:16 PM
#17
keep in mind guys that I think I may have a little more room than the type S guys. When I looked at the SC CLS oem radiator I remember thinking to myself that I am screwed...but mine fit ok. The main difference b/w mine and Jeremys is that my spout is angled down with a 90 degree spout to accomodate the thickness that is added with this radiator. One things for sure, it really looks badbass under the hood...
03-18-2007, 09:27 PM
#18
Tristate ViP Crew
I concur that thing is badass..I really didnt think when Chirag was installing it that the blower would fit but it does. It's tight but it'll get in there. I kept saying it aint gonna fit it aint gonna fit 
03-18-2007, 09:34 PM
#19
Originally Posted by CL Platano
I concur that thing is badass..I really didnt think when Chirag was installing it that the blower would fit but it does. It's tight but it'll get in there. I kept saying it aint gonna fit it aint gonna fit
03-18-2007, 11:40 PM
#20
Jeremy, I'm glad you finally got that puppy on. Looks great and as always thank you for you pushing me that extra mile to come up with new products for insane modders like yourself (and myself 
) I have to get back to my CL/TL projects again. And hopefully the cams will follow shortly after. 
I am going to try and put some numbers together so we can start a production run. There are a number of different part #'s for these radiators but I believe I have narrowed it down to two different versions based on what year CL/TL you have. Again as you can see with those guys that are S/Ced I had Griffin make a 90 degree spout.
I will post up dimensions and more info hopefully sometime Tuesday. My great uncle died on Wed morning and they just flew him back up from Florida so we have a funeral tomorrow and then time with the family. And I am still doing construction so I'm a little behind as to be expected. Thanks agian.
) I have to get back to my CL/TL projects again. And hopefully the cams will follow shortly after. I am going to try and put some numbers together so we can start a production run. There are a number of different part #'s for these radiators but I believe I have narrowed it down to two different versions based on what year CL/TL you have. Again as you can see with those guys that are S/Ced I had Griffin make a 90 degree spout.
I will post up dimensions and more info hopefully sometime Tuesday. My great uncle died on Wed morning and they just flew him back up from Florida so we have a funeral tomorrow and then time with the family. And I am still doing construction so I'm a little behind as to be expected. Thanks agian.
03-19-2007, 06:43 PM
#22
Racer
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I have a question what would happen if I get the radiater without the s/c, but down the road I get a s/c would the radiater cause any problems still if it is not made in a 90 degree angle???
03-19-2007, 06:59 PM
#23
Moderator Alumnus
Originally Posted by VinceBlkCLS
I have a question what would happen if I get the radiater without the s/c, but down the road I get a s/c would the radiater cause any problems still if it is not made in a 90 degree angle???
03-20-2007, 05:44 PM
#26
MP90 uninstalled
Lookin good fellas! I am very interested in price and gains for the SC cars. I just got a blower and I am curious what gains will be seen. So whats it gonna cost? Please dont make all of us PM you. I would never let a local radiator shop touch that thing. Thats one hell of a write up.
05-04-2007, 01:39 PM
#28
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
Bump.. Any more info on this?
i've been running the radiator since this install with no issues at all, looks solid.
05-05-2007, 02:51 PM
#30
Moderator Alumnus
Originally Posted by Excelerate
I'm going to put this sale up. Sorry I have slacked on this. Maybe we can get a GB together.
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