loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

Hello all,

I have an issue I can't seem to resolve and could use your help. My drivers window stopped working. I have gone through the threads on it, but have not had any luck. Since then, I have gone through and checked, with a meter, the fuse. i have also gone through the TL testing guide, which I was told is the same as the CL, and that informed me it was the motor. I found 2 TL's and 1 CL that were parting out, but none of them would work. It is possible they are all bad, but highly unlikely. Next I tried a couple switches, which did not help. Lastly, I changed the multiplex control unit, square black box, to no avail. Lastly, I took from a CL, the switches, black box and motor, connected to my car and still did not work. At this point, I do not know where to go next? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Apply 12v and ground to the motor directly.

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

I have already done that, and can make the motor move. I am informed the TL manual for this is the same as CL, but a couple wires are different colors, though power seems to match. I went out today and checked all wires again, and the switch ohm check works as it should, but with power, don't get power out. The one wire that should have power all the time does not show that. Manual says it is the fuse, but checked and replaced it and still nothing. Not sure where to go next..

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

It's basic diagnosis from there. Just work backwards from the motor.

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

The one question I have is the difference of TL and CL manuals. Using the TL manual, two colors are not the same. One wire, the TL manual says a white/green wire should have power at all times but does not. BUT, all the rest do, which would mean the power is there. The fuse is good. This is where I am stuck...

RooEng

Check the connectors on the harness. Make sure there's no corrosion, none of the wires are broken at the terminal and none of the terminals are pushed out of the connector.

I have a CL manual, I can post the pages if it'll help. Just let me know what page you need.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Why don't you just use the CL manual? Here's a page with the CL manual:

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-776021/page2/

I posted a video with the link that I'm maintaining.

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

I have been to that page and is where I have downloaded the TL manual. The video I saw was a TL manual. When I tried to follow the CL links, none of the links would take me a good page.

01acls

If the above is correct then your passenger side fuse/relay box is defective because you have an open circuit. Assuming there's no power at the above good fuse.

If the above good fuse has power then you still have a open circuit but probably a bad connection or open wire from the fuse to the power window control unit.

A simple thing you can do is power the motor side of the circuit with the fuse removed. If the drivers window works then you've just confirm that the fuse block is defective.

If you don't want t to replace the fuse box then you can do a work around by simply running your own 20 amp fused power wire to the fuse box or directly to the power window control unit.
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Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

The second half of the video shows the CL link. I guess I should have made it more clear, oh well.

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

Hello,

I have figured out my problem, and unfortunately part of the problem was the test in both the TL and CL manual. The first step to testing the control module is to remove the door panel. There is a plug you need to unplug that goes to the light and trunk button. After tracing wires, the power wire (white/green) goes to that plug and then comes back out to go to the control module. Without the door panel connected or jumpering the plug, the control module won't work. Once I figured that out, found out it was my control module that went bad. Hopefully my suffering will help someone in the future.