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So I have very little experience with these cars, but has anyone over the years heard of someone using the Comptech Auto headers on their CL-S6? I'm not sure if it's possible, but I am getting impatient in my search for the ultra-rare Comptech CL-S6 headers and would settle for the auto pair if there is a legitimate way to utilize them.. I don't want to cut anything, nor do I want to use a different rear mount, but perhaps I can just simply disconnect the rear mount, install the header and then reconnect the rear mount to avoid the clearance issue..? I'm totally unaware of what exactly the clearance issue is and how it looks like with the auto CT headers in a 6sp car; I've only read on a few threads that the rear mount is the issue so forgive my ignorance. Would appreciate it if someone knowledgeable chimed in on this.
No, it won't fit without shaving the rear mount. Here's a pic of the bend in my CT headers, I put a red circle on it:
Now compare that to any auto headers without the bend:
The bend is too much for the mount to have any clearance, regardless of which order you installed the mount and rear collector.
You could get the rear mount bracket shaved to get the required clearance. I remember it needing to be shaved quite a bit, but it wouldn't compromise the mount. Also, the XS-P headers are an almost exact copy of the CT headers for around $200.
Interesting...and you're sure that cutting it won't compromise the integrity of the mount? I'm a machinist so I do have access to the tools, tooling and time to properly cut & modify the mount to the appropriate dimensions 🤔
I do, however, tend to be a perfectionist, so cutting the mount is a very unattractive thought.. also, unfortunately, being located in smog-nazi-CA, I need the carb-legal Comptech headers. Not to mention they just seem to be the highest quality design, I mean, Comptech Engineering is legit!
OP, I can understand why you would want to try and obtain a set of used CT 6-speed headers.
I installed mine back in Sept/Oct 2004 after waiting a few weeks because they were on 'backorder'. I also remember installing them from underneath the car. At first, the rear (firewall side) CT manifold put up a fight because it was very tight working them up into the limited space that was available, complicated by the rear engine mount.
In addition, I was told by alot of people that the rear manifold could be dropped in, rather easily, from the top by removing the strut bar and IMRC actuator. My problem, at the time, was that I had the front of the car supported, pretty high, on jack stands in the driveway to allow for adequate wiggle room underneath. Thus, making it a royal PIA to lay on top of the engine bay for a 'top' install.
Even though the rear manifold 'fought' me all the way from below, miraculously, the SOB did slide right in like a glove once I found that 'sweet' maneuvered spot. Luckily there were no leaks when finished and the next week I went back and revisited all the manifold bolts again for a quick tightening. The headers have not been touched ever since then; therefore, I understand why you would try and 'holdout' for a set of CT CLS6 headers.
IMHO, now that i think about it, if I were to stumble upon this car platform for the first time, after all of these years, and wanted to install performance headers, and found myself in your position, I would settle for less, and get 'the best' readily available set of Chinese CLS6 knockoffs that I could find for all of the reasons outlined above by Karanx7. That 'bend' in the rear manifold is needed for a reason; otherwise, your only option is to modify the rear engine mount bracket or wait for a set to become available.
OP, I can understand why you would want to try and obtain a set of used CT 6-speed headers.
I installed mine back in Sept/Oct 2004 after waiting a few weeks because they were on 'backorder'. I also remember installing them from underneath the car. At first, the rear (firewall side) CT manifold put up a fight because it was very tight working them up into the limited space that was available, complicated by the rear engine mount.
In addition, I was told by alot of people that the rear manifold could be dropped in, rather easily, from the top by removing the strut bar and IMRC actuator. My problem, at the time, was that I had the front of the car supported, pretty high, on jack stands in the driveway to allow for adequate wiggle room underneath. Thus, making it a royal PIA to lay on top of the engine bay for a 'top' install.
Even though the rear manifold 'fought' me all the way from below, miraculously, the SOB did slide right in like a glove once I found that 'sweet' maneuvered spot. Luckily there were no leaks when finished and the next week I went back and revisited all the manifold bolts again for a quick tightening. The headers have not been touched ever since then; therefore, I understand why you would try and 'holdout' for a set of CT CLS6 headers.
IMHO, now that i think about it, if I were to stumble upon this car platform for the first time, after all of these years, and wanted to install performance headers, and found myself in your position, I would settle for less, and get 'the best' readily available set of Chinese CLS6 knockoffs that I could find for all of the reasons outlined above by Karanx7. That 'bend' in the rear manifold is needed for a reason; otherwise, your only option is to modify the rear engine mount bracket or wait for a set to become available.
Good Luck in your endeavor!
That's so cool to have someone responding who was actually doing this when these cars were brand new. Love the input, thank you!
Unfortunately, I'm stubborn so I probably going to have to wait it out for the CT headers.
I've had another thought cross my mind, however. What if I were to use an aftermarket rear mount such as the one from innovative? Would that clear up enough spare for me to use the auto headers? I'm pushing for the auto headers so much because I have found a really clean example for sale.
I see just how little clearance there is from this picture and it seems that the mount is the main culprit here...which is why Im wondering, what if I utilized a different rear mount? What options do I have regarding rear engine mounts that will work with my car AND clear the auto comptech headers?
I see just how little clearance there is from this picture and it seems that the mount is the main culprit here...which is why Im wondering, what if I utilized a different rear mount? What options do I have regarding rear engine mounts that will work with my car AND clear the auto comptech headers?
Good work in finding that picture, and as you state, it truly speaks a 'thousand words' in depicting how little space there is for the 6-speed headers and the rear engine mount bracket.
Now to answer your question/make suggestions about utilizing an 'aftermarket mount' to free up clearence.
First, if you do the analysis on the OEM engine mount system between the Auto CL-S and the CL-S6, IIRC'ly, you will find that the differences lie in the front mount bracket #10; rear engine mount bracket #11 and rear engine mount #7 between the two models. All of the other mounts and brackets share the same part #'s. Therefore, theoretically, if you wanted to experiment and procure an Auto CL-S front engine mount bracket; rear engine mount bracket and rear engine mount from a salvage yard, you may be able to utilize the Auto CL-S CT headers that you found. If you change the rear engine mount bracket, which would go from a horizontal bolt through the bracket/mount on the CL-S6 to a vertical bolt to the vertical stud on the rear Auto mount, you may free up the room; however, you may also have to sacrifice the front/rear CL-S6 engine mount dampers as well.
The only reason I say that you may need to use an Auto front engine mount bracket, in lieu of the 6-speed one you already have on your car, is because my guess is that the subtle differences may be in the vertical and/or front to rear spacing these mounts would position the engine within the cradle for the auto mounts. Get what I'm saying?
The only other thing that I can think of that you would have to modify is that you would have to run an additional vacuum line from the electronic control mounting solenoid valve assembly to the rear Auto mount to utilize the vacuum feature of that particular mount.
OR
Since you state that you are a 'machinist' you could just remove the rear CL-S6 mount bracket from the car and employ your or someone you know skill-sets to shave down the rear 6-speed engine mount bracket, just enough, to fit the Auto headers. That would involve alot of under the car test fitting as you go along to achieve your goal. Unfortunately, you are going to have to 'pay the piper' in someway, irregardless of the option you elect, when trying to utilize the Auto CT headers on the CL-S6.
I have Comptech auto headers I am willing to part ways with if you decide to go this route. The only downside is that the J pipe was cut near the cat because it was welded directly to the strait pipe exhaust. PM me if interested!
So now I finally have my set of 6-speed headers but they are fairly rusted/dirty. Before I install them, I'd really like to clean them up. What would be the best method for going about restoring their condition as much as possible? I've heard of potentially bead-blasting..? Is that possible and where would I find a place that could do that?
I also need a new set of oem gaskets/nuts and bolts. Is acuraoemparts the only place to find these? Their diagram is a bit cluttered..
Depending on how 'hands on' you want to get, you could soak them in a product like 'Evapo-Rust'. I used this stuff on rust heavy chrome rims from a 1981 Schwinn StingRay I restored recently and it worked surprisingly well. Used aluminium foil to dislodge the rust residue without scratching. Though you may want to try first in an inconspicuous space to see if it would scratch stainless steel.
If that is not within the 'labor' scope you want to expend, then just Google 'bead' or 'media' blasting shops for your zip code and that should get you started in that direction.
Finally, IIRC, mattcl-s and Jonathan Hill used the OEM 8mm Self-Lock nut manifold nuts (#7 on link) and then purchased 'Grade 8 Bolts' from the local hardware store to finish-up the other connections.
11-21-2017, 10:09 PM
If you change the rear engine mount bracket, which would go from a horizontal bolt through the bracket/mount on the CL-S6 to a vertical bolt to the vertical stud on the rear Auto mount, you may free up the room; however, you may also have to sacrifice the front/rear CL-S6 engine mount dampers as well.
