rtatsutani

Just dropped it off today. Emanage blue and boomslang harness. I have a pre-tune dyno from a few months ago and I'm assuming they'll have a post tune dyno by default? Assuming that's true, I'll post the pre and post tune dynos on Monday night. I also asked them to reset the ECU pre-tune just in case our ECU adjusts. So whenever it's feeling weird again, I can just reset it and set it back to it's optimal tune.

BaumBizzle

What's better to tune w/, an Apex NEO or the Emanage? Also, whats all this about resetting the ECU before/after dyno's? I'm new to all this so sorry if these questoins are noobish. last thing, what do you mean "So whenever it's feeling weird again, you can just reset it back to it's optimal tune"??? Thanks for any info b/c you'll be educating this moron! haha

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

this has been discussed numerous times, to simply put it. Our ECU resets its self or readjust to pulltiming with time if it feels the cars is running different frm factory spec conditions. Too much air flow, too hot , too lean etc
thus ur most notice of gains after a Mod is imediate and it usually fades with time after a few days of the ecu recalibrating itself.
Thus the ECU reset

Now if ur cars is N/a Apex Neo seems to be a good option but also suffers frm the ecu plague.
Emanage is more expensive but seems to be able to bypass the ECU especially if u go with ultimate but most N/A guys dont use it its the FI guys that use it more. to tune for timing, frm the extra boost, leanning due to running rich frm IMRC or vtec switch over. hope this makes sense.

rtatsutani

Alright, so last time I dyno'd my car I got 247 HP. So they tuned it with the emanage and now it was making 242 LOL. They said temps were 16 deg. higher than my last dyno (247 HP) and the car came in dyno'ing lower than 242 so they squeazed out a few HP but nothing substantial. Guess this really didn't help out all that much?

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

your getting that with all those mods with a 3.5?!

CLS6SpeedNupe

Damn man something isnt right, unless your motor wasnt built right. You should be seeing nothing less than 255-260 to the wheels but technically maybe more but we will say that to be say in saying that your set up isnt right somewhere.

CLS6SpeedNupe

On another note were they able to control and advance timing with the Emanage? or was it only just a fuel timing thing.

rtatsutani

Only fuel. They couldn't control timing. Even with the fuel adjustments, they said that it would make improvements for a little while then ignore further adjustments after a certain point. The ecu kept doing funky things and adjusting. Initially my car went into the shop and dyno'd 235 (temp 85 deg.), after tuning and multiple ecu resets the best they could get it was 242 (temp 91 deg.).

rtatsutani

Here's the dyno details from 4 runs. STD smoothing 5 Dynojet

1st: Post 3.5L with clogged cat 180HP
2nd: Gutted cat 247HP, 215TQ, 77 deg, 61% humidity
3rd: Pre-Emanage & RT cat 235HP, 205TQ, 87 deg, 36% humidity
4th: Post-Emanage and tune 242HP, 212TQ, 92 deg, 29% humidity

CLS6SpeedNupe

Ok so you have confirmed that the emanage ultimate cannont control timing for our cars

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

when was the last time you scanned your car for soft and hard codes?

rtatsutani

Update: Since I got my car back, I have driven it about 100 miles and it has lit up the CEL, VSA and ! lights twice after resetting the ECU. Both after about 50 miles of driving. Checked the codes and returned P0170 & P0172 both times.

P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)

Found these possible solutions but doubt this could have occurred immediately after the tune.

Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
Cleanthe MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
Inspect fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or pinches
Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail
Check the fuel injectors, they may be dirty. Use fuel injector cleaner or get them professionally cleaned/replaced.
Check for an exhaust leak before the first oxygen sensor (this is unlikely to cause the problem, but it is possible)

I assume it's apparent that the emanage is doing something, but just not being accepted by the ECU? This is becoming irritating.

EL19

iTrader: (4)

are u running an aftermarket FPR? Those are the same codes I got when my fuel pressure was out of wack when I was boosted. Also you should be making alot more power than that. What type of combo are you running for your 3.5? My boy is running a 3.5 and dynoed 280whp with just Intake headers & pulley.

rtatsutani

Yeah, I'm running the AEM FPR. And yes my numbers are bad. I think the only difference on my 3.5L setup is the fact that I used RL pistons which had a smaller concave then the CL's pistons which in turn made my compression a bit higher (which I thought should yeild more HP). Maybe that could be causing some issues? I dunno, I would hate to have to pay and have someone tear it apart again to try some CL-s pistons to see if that was the issue.

Allout

I wonder if it's worth dropping 110 octane fuel into your car and see what a new dyno would yield? I wonder if the ECU is pulling timing for some reason?

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

i'm using RL pistons and put down 250whp once with no tune... but the car pulls hard, the results speak for themselves. i thought the guy who built your motor decided to overbore the cylinders?

rtatsutani

Not overbored as you would "overbore" an engine to increase displacement but rather re-bored it (.25mm) for imperfections since I blew my motor. Just the normal procedure for replacing damaged pistons and rings. So that minutely increased my displacement but nothing that should have affected the compression all that much.

Wait, so both you and I have put down well under what should be acheived by this motor. And both you and I have the RL pistons. Were you on a dynojet? My first dyno was 247 which is pretty close to yours. Maybe my 2nd dyno was 10HP less due to the 90+ deg. ambient temps, but that being said, maybe it is our RL pistons??? If typeR got 250+ on a mustang, and another member got 280 on a dynojet, I think something must be wrong with our setup.

rtatsutani

Will try the 110 octane for kicks. Could be...

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

hm, could be. yea i believe it was a dynojet, i don't think i've ever tried dyno since then, but the car pulls really hard. i'd say i'm making more than 250whp/220tq but that's what the dyno said at the time.

the higher compression could be causing the ECU to back off timing, but i don't really see why it would do that. people lay down more power w/ stock ECU and a blower, the ECU should be able to handle the situation and adjust.

i've had the car and motor checked over, and it comes up clean. again it drives great, pulls hard, but the dyno didn't say what was expected. but 250whp all motor and automatic, isn't bad by me. that's probably like a 300 HP motor.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

your signature says tuned unichip... i'm guessing you removed this way ahead of time before installing/tuning the greddy right?

rtatsutani

Yeah, I removed that a while back since it didn't seem to be doing much for my car (assumed b/c I though 247HP was poor). But all in all it seems like I got much better numbers out of that than the tuned emanage. At least I got 247 with the unichip LOL.

CLS6SpeedNupe

The guy that made 280hp was a 6 Speed 3.5 and I believe he had a lot of custom intake work from a vendor on here so that combo alone would make his motor but down more than the other 3.5s on here since they are all autos.

The RL pistons being the problem is something to think about though the guy with the 280hp is running them in his but again his set isnt the same as you guys so he might not never know if the Pistons made a gain or not compared to sticking with the CLS ones under another 3.5 6MT with those pistons dyno.

I know I have seen somewhere a Accord V6 3.5 with CLS pistons that made 264hp and a Civic hatch 3.5 with CLS pistons that also made 260 something WHP. Looking at this I would expect that .5 compression increase to RL pistons would have to net some kind of gain, but then again both of those cars were 6 MT.

I am more than confident that all of you with 3.5 CLS cars are pulling timing in the percentage of 37% or more. In the past 3 months I have seen three 3.5 CLS 6MT be built and once completed and tested they were all pulling timing timing due to the ECU.

At this point I strongly believe that the Greddy Emanage period is not the best tuning or management option for people like set up like you guys. I think the AEM FIC would pull more power out of your car and run it a lot better. I know you already have the emanager but I would look into that some time in the future if you want more out of that car.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

we cannot keep comparing to typeR's build... that was one of a kind done by someone very skilled. building a motor is not like anything else, every build is different, every builder has different styles in the way they want to prep the block and heads. again 250whp on an auto with bolt-ons... put that in a 6speed and what do you think it would put down?

CLS6SpeedNupe

yea that is exactly how I have been looking at it. So basically with the car at topic here we might say he was unfortunate to get a really poor build?

typeR

dyno.s are tuning tools , track is the key

CLS6SpeedNupe

yes but what one person does on the track, another with more power and completely different track set up may not be able to do