BigAl3000

Hello. Thanks for reading. My 01' CLS won't start. I'll give you each scenario on what happened leading up to this.

Saturday Afternoon-I got back into my car and when I started it, it sounded like it was hard to start(like a no gas start struggle start). It cranked up and I didn't think anything about it because I was near E.

Saturday Afternoon part 2-I'm pulled over on the side of the street and while the car was still running and in Park, it stalled. I'm like oh shit, and I started it back up and once again, it felt like it was struggling on fuel and it fired up.

I went to the gas station and filled up.

Saturday Night-I got back into my car and the same thing. It felt like it was hard to start and it fired right up.

Sunday Morning-I get all of the way home and I pop my hood to see what could be wrong. Btw, I usually play my music loud in my car and on the drive home, it didn't sound like it was turned all the way up when it really was.

The dome light in the car got dim and the headlights got dim and the car shut off. When I attempted to start it, nothing. The lights on the dash were lighting up, but the background lights were dim. Nothing. It wouldn't even crank.

Monday-I attempted to start it...nothing.

Tuesday-I attempted to start it...nothing. This time, the lights on the dash are dim ALL the way, the window is slow to roll down and ESPECIALLY SLOW to roll up. The headlights stopped working and when I try to put the highbeams on, only the left driver side one lights up, the other right passenger side one doesn't light up. The back rear lights are dim as well.

We tried to replace the battery 120amp fuse, but that was good. Corrosion isn't on the battery. I don't know what's wrong.

Can anyone help me!!! And also, what should I prepare to pay because that's my biggest concern. I don't have the money right now. Thanks.

BigAl3000

Oh...also, I tried to jump start the car...and the same thing. It wouldn't turn over.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

first things first, see if the battery will hold a charge.

BigAl3000

Okay, I'll make it out tomorrow morning and take it to get it checked out. I was working the whole week and my days off are Wed and Thurs, so thats the only days I have to play with it. I appreciate the feedback. I hope its just the battery.

FwC

iTrader: (1)

Search "main relay". I had this issue with my cl. Theres a main relay under the dash that fails due to what was called "heat soak".

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

yeap... check the fuel relay but that usually if it wont start but cranks.
ur battey might me gone.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Definitely a charging issue going on here! To me, it sounds like you have a discharging battery while the engine is running and explains why you could drive it with no issues but was slow/hard start after killing the car. This is generally because the alternators charge isn't reaching the battery to keep the voltage level maintained (this discharging) but IS reaching the power distribution center thus allowing the car to run/drive almost normal and without symptom. These cars (most Acuras/Hondas actually) have very bad problems with high resistance in the cable/terminals that connector to the battery posts and especially if they're corroded from a sulphating battery. You will probably need to replace the battery but try to charge it first...Autozone or Oreillys should do this as a free service so they can sell you a battery if it is bad, lol. While removing or reinstalling the battery, pay very close attention to the battery terminals and look for any signs of corrosion as well as making sure the terminals snug and fit securely around the post of each side. Go ahead and buy one of those $2.00 battery terminal cleaners and shine the insides of the terminals up till they shine like gold and also the post till they shine like silver. This ensures excellent connectivity. After this has been done, have a 'knowledgable' person check the starting/charging system for any issues. Make sure they do a "charge under load" test which pretty much where they turn on common loads (A/C, radio, headlights, etc...) and ensure that the voltage AT the battery doesn't drop too low. I allow DOWN to 13 volts with loads on but really all depends on the amperage hat the electrical system is demanding. 90% of the time, reading battery voltage under load is an accurate way to judge a capable charging system.

Good luck!

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

my car dips to 12 v at idle at a light with accessories on. and no problems with the car running.

i can start my car with only 12v in the battery FYI. do it all the time. i have a volt meter installed so i know

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

That doesn't mean that your charging system is ok. If it dips below 13V at idle with loads on, your alternator is struggling big time. And everyone starts their car at 12V, that's the battery's sitting voltage...actually 12.6V is a 100% fully charged battery. My car use to dip below at idle as well but I simply swapped out the alternator pulley for one with a smaller diameter to make it spin faster at idle this producing more amperage/voltage and that took care of it. The only cars that are considered to be "normal" below 13V at idle are GM cars, specifically Cadillac. If you look at the TSBs of most of the mid 90's and up GMs, they all say that "if a customer reports slow crank or dead battery after having ran an extended high load at idle, do not to attempt to repair. This is considered normal and suggest limiting the length of high load idle time."

^^^And that's no joke.

But yes, all other cars have something wrong if producing that low of a voltage at idle. And you are unknowingly (now knowingly) creating a high stress environment for the alternator and I assure you, it won't last long.

Lastly, where is your voltmeter wired in at?

Catfisha

Huh....I thought the battery was supposed to read 14.0 to 14.7 V while running due to the alternator output....

At least your car STAYS running, I have some wonderful memories of my '83 Accord and its F'ing voltage regulator!!

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i have the option UD pulley pulley... my charging system is just fine. if u have only a few things one at idle it's 14+v but if u got everything on.. lights, a/c, stereo, heated seats, heated rear window... then yea it dies to about 12v dead on... but u cannot go so low the car dies... never have in the 2+ years of having the car this way..

yea i could get the smaller pulley.. but that just takes away that power i got from underdriving in the first place.. lol yea prolly 1 hp LOL but still it's defeating the purpose in my book. and i've run with it long enough to know that there will not be an issue. except it does kill the battery but i don't car.. i never use the charge anyway...

if the alt craps out.. the new one i put in will have a slightly smaller pulley. but i just don't give a F at the moment. not to say you shouldn't.. it just all depends on how you like things to be and how much juice you need from your car on the regular..

so did u figure out your problem OP???


charge the battery.. start your car (presuming the battery held it's charge and will start the car) put a volt meter to the terminals on the battery. make sure the volt meter is on DC (the picture with the straight line). then you will either see constant voltage or voltage drop.. if the voltage is slowly dropping you NEED NEW ALTERNATOR.

p.s a digital volt meter will tell you .1v which is MUCH easier to see than the analog ones where the dial is moving left to right.

but yea man u def have a charging or bat issue

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Depends on load demand and also how the alternator is internally regulated. Some alternators are PCM controlled and actually have amp meters that attach near the battery that helps determine exactly how much amperage to supply the system and/or charge the battery. Those units literally don't charge at all at times if everything is 'caught up'.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

CL-S, the car doesn't die because the charging system is not above a certain voltage. It dies because the battery is dead. Think of it like this: the battery has almost discharged itself due to the excessive resistance in the power distribution harness. This of course makes the alternator to try harder because it sees a low voltage issue and begins to work harder till eventually it either shuts off due to excess heat OR fails all together. Now your car has both a dead battery and a tired alternator. Guess what the car is gonna do....

silvervtec96

Check your solenoid wire. Mine slips off solenoid from time to time and either cranks like crap or won't even turn over.