caliper swap
#1
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
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caliper swap
I'm going to be swapping to NSX calipers this summer and I'm going to start cleaning and freshening up the NSX calipers. I want to make sure I have everything when the time comes for the install.
How much brake fluid do I need?
There are copper crush washers on the brake line. Can I use the ones I can get at NAPPA? (are they universal?)
Anything else I need to know? I'm going to lube the pins. The pistons move easily, but should I lube them also and with what? Thanks in advance.
How much brake fluid do I need?
There are copper crush washers on the brake line. Can I use the ones I can get at NAPPA? (are they universal?)
Anything else I need to know? I'm going to lube the pins. The pistons move easily, but should I lube them also and with what? Thanks in advance.
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
When I did my Legend calipers they came with new copper washers and they worked fine. I just picked up a couple single service packets of the AGS/Sil-Glyde brake lube, for the pins, from the local auto parts store and went to town. If you need copper washers, the ones at NAPA should do. If you are doing a whole system fluid flush, then 2 or three containers of Honda brake fluid should do. I just kept filling the reservoir/bleeding until it was all used up.
AGS/Sil-Glyde brake lubricant BK-1- Read2Reviews onAGS #BK-1
AGS/Sil-Glyde brake lubricant BK-1- Read2Reviews onAGS #BK-1
Last edited by zeta; 06-21-2016 at 11:33 AM.
#3
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
thanks Zeta! it looks like I can lube the pistons with that stuff too. The NSX calipers are used so they didn't come with anything. I'll grab some copper crush washers. I've read some people re-use them but they're cheap and reusing doesn't sound like a good idea.
I'll have to bleed the entire system since I'm disconnecting the front brake line right? Or can I just bleed the fronts?
I'm going to get started on cleaning them up tonight. They're dirty as hell. I'll probably paint them black and make the letters silver. If it was a BBK I'd throw some colour on there, but i'll keep it subtle.
I'll have to bleed the entire system since I'm disconnecting the front brake line right? Or can I just bleed the fronts?
I'm going to get started on cleaning them up tonight. They're dirty as hell. I'll probably paint them black and make the letters silver. If it was a BBK I'd throw some colour on there, but i'll keep it subtle.
#4
If you're already in there why not replace the line with stainless braided brake lines? They come with everything you need. Plus increased pedal feel. I'll be installing my calipers soon and the research that I've done said not to grease to piston. I guess because the grease and brake fluid aren't compatible. I "greased" my piston with brake fluid and it slide into the chamber easily after I rebuild them.
As far as bleeding them is concerned............I would bleed all four calipers since I opened the braking system.
As far as bleeding them is concerned............I would bleed all four calipers since I opened the braking system.
#5
Suzuka Master
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#7
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Not sure they'd clear my rims. Plus I'd need new rotors, pads and bracket. I got a great deal on these and they're compatible with what I have already.
I'm going to clean them and paint them this weekend hopefully.
I'm going to clean them and paint them this weekend hopefully.
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#8
Do plan to get a set....again.....GRRRRRR, for the TL.
gnuts, I also would recommend stainless steel brake lines, might as well since you are already in there doing the work.
#9
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
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stainless lines would be great but I just can't dump the money into the car right now. We just finished a big house reno and money is mostly spoken for. I also have a few other parts I can hopefully get installed this summer. Eibach rear sway, moog endlinks and ingalls rear camber kit. I can do the rear sway myself. The camber kit might have to wait until next year. Oh I also just repainted my side skirts. I'll have to wash the plant sex off and snap some pics.
#10
Ah yes, the house projects....in the middle of a few myself, that I am already getting the steady reminders to get done, asap.
Sounds like you are getting the car very cruise ready....that's good.
The shop that did the side skirts, they do good work, what was the pricing like?
I found a place that will do a full respray for between $2500-$3000, with a lifetime warranty. Sounded reasonable to me, but if there is an option to save on spending and not quality, I am open to suggestions.
Sounds like you are getting the car very cruise ready....that's good.
The shop that did the side skirts, they do good work, what was the pricing like?
I found a place that will do a full respray for between $2500-$3000, with a lifetime warranty. Sounded reasonable to me, but if there is an option to save on spending and not quality, I am open to suggestions.
#11
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Ours was a rear addition 24x18 with a basement. It's like 90% done, but it's the last bit that takes the longest. Plus I acted as the general contractor and I've been lazy lately. Probably because there is a couch and TV in there (and beer fridge).
I moulded the TL kit on my CL myself and did the paint myself originally. I had the front bumper fully re-sprayed at a shop few years ago, but a steep driveway took some paint off the one side of the lip. I wouldn't recommend that shop. I just re-sprayed the sides with duplicolour and it turned out nicely. I would probably do a vinyl wrap down the road, buy you have such a nice colour I'd stick with ABP. A good trustworthy body shop seems to be a rare thing.
Yes it's cruise ready! I got to do the first wax of the season on fathers day so it's looking good aside from all the pollen.
I moulded the TL kit on my CL myself and did the paint myself originally. I had the front bumper fully re-sprayed at a shop few years ago, but a steep driveway took some paint off the one side of the lip. I wouldn't recommend that shop. I just re-sprayed the sides with duplicolour and it turned out nicely. I would probably do a vinyl wrap down the road, buy you have such a nice colour I'd stick with ABP. A good trustworthy body shop seems to be a rare thing.
Yes it's cruise ready! I got to do the first wax of the season on fathers day so it's looking good aside from all the pollen.
#12
Nice addition! yeah, fortunately, my projects are no where near as extensive.....hence why it is taking a minute to get them done.
Ok, well, if you have the time/patience/dedication to do as much work on the car yourself, makes sense. Always thought the TL kit looked better on the CL than the CL kit.
Yeah, plan to keep it ABP, still have to check what number in the batch it is.
The shop I found came recommended by a friend, so, would be ok with taking the car to them.
I need to wax the MDX.....LONG overdue.
Ok, well, if you have the time/patience/dedication to do as much work on the car yourself, makes sense. Always thought the TL kit looked better on the CL than the CL kit.
Yeah, plan to keep it ABP, still have to check what number in the batch it is.
The shop I found came recommended by a friend, so, would be ok with taking the car to them.
I need to wax the MDX.....LONG overdue.
#15
3.5 psi
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Thank you! I bought it with the tint, although it looks as dark as my last CL6 which was around 20% I believe.
The side mirrors are tinted? that's funny....probably to stop the glare from cars behind you with bright lights.
The side mirrors are tinted? that's funny....probably to stop the glare from cars behind you with bright lights.
#17
Suzuka Master
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^
The following users liked this post:
gnuts (06-27-2016)
The following users liked this post:
gnuts (06-27-2016)
#20
3.5 psi
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Thanks Derek, appreciate it.
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