Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll - Page 6 - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

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View Poll Results: Performance Radius Rod Bushings Poll
Yes, I'd be all over this
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Maybe, depends on costs
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Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll

 
Old 12-10-2013, 06:39 PM
  #201  
2003 Acura CL-S6
 
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Ok, does anyone know what could cause this problem in the rear then? My plan was just to change out all the bushing first.
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Old 09-07-2018, 11:54 PM
  #202  
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Buy the moog strut rod bushings.its what everyone else calls radius rod..you wont be

Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
Yesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyes.....



All it would take is a mold and pouring some polyurethane. Theres nothing to the stock bushings, just a big chunk of rubber.



Moog makes radius rod bushings?
I have done it to all if my acuras
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Old 09-07-2018, 11:56 PM
  #203  
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Moog everything up front snd in back..cant beat the quality.
strur rod aka radius rod bushings change entire front end
.stiffer more respinsive
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Old 11-30-2018, 03:39 AM
  #204  
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I have.

[QUOTE=zeta;13128837]That Moog kit (#K9733) looks very interesting for $26.99 at RA.



If they are the same, when you get a chance, please post up the ES part # for further research.

BTW, has anyone actually ever replaced the radius rod bushings on the CL-S?

The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
4. Remove the self-locking nut, washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.

The reason I ask is because those flange bolts are a MFer to work with since space is tight in that area due to the axle. Making socket/wrench positioning difficult for removal/reinstall and final torque to 119lbf-ft.
I guess one could pop the lower ball joint for more flexability, however.[/QUOTE

i just did mine with the moog part from rockauto and only thing I can say is that I ended up taking the whole suspension apart on mine. It actually took less time doing that then trying a work around. It comes apart pretty easily really. Though I would like to strongly ha ha ha ha. STRONGLY suggest te use of some blue 242 thread locker on the bolt where the bushing nut is going. I had the passenger side but back off and the outer bushing plus the nut and washer all fell off and I didnít even know it until I went to do the rear motor mount.

had to put the old one back on until I can order a new one. Oh and yes I had tightened it super tight.
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