View Poll Results: Performance Radius Rod Bushings Poll
Yes, I'd be all over this
6
60.00%
Maybe, depends on costs
4
40.00%
No, not interested
0
0%
Voters: 10. You may not vote on this poll
Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll
#202
Buy the moog strut rod bushings.its what everyone else calls radius rod..you wont be
#204
I have.
[QUOTE=zeta;13128837]That Moog kit (#K9733) looks very interesting for $26.99 at RA.
If they are the same, when you get a chance, please post up the ES part # for further research.
BTW, has anyone actually ever replaced the radius rod bushings on the CL-S?
The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
4. Remove the self-locking nut, washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.
The reason I ask is because those flange bolts are a MFer to work with since space is tight in that area due to the axle. Making socket/wrench positioning difficult for removal/reinstall and final torque to 119lbf-ft.
I guess one could pop the lower ball joint for more flexability, however.[/QUOTE
i just did mine with the moog part from rockauto and only thing I can say is that I ended up taking the whole suspension apart on mine. It actually took less time doing that then trying a work around. It comes apart pretty easily really. Though I would like to strongly ha ha ha ha. STRONGLY suggest te use of some blue 242 thread locker on the bolt where the bushing nut is going. I had the passenger side but back off and the outer bushing plus the nut and washer all fell off and I didn’t even know it until I went to do the rear motor mount.
had to put the old one back on until I can order a new one. Oh and yes I had tightened it super tight.
If they are the same, when you get a chance, please post up the ES part # for further research.
BTW, has anyone actually ever replaced the radius rod bushings on the CL-S?
The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
4. Remove the self-locking nut, washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.
The reason I ask is because those flange bolts are a MFer to work with since space is tight in that area due to the axle. Making socket/wrench positioning difficult for removal/reinstall and final torque to 119lbf-ft.
I guess one could pop the lower ball joint for more flexability, however.[/QUOTE
i just did mine with the moog part from rockauto and only thing I can say is that I ended up taking the whole suspension apart on mine. It actually took less time doing that then trying a work around. It comes apart pretty easily really. Though I would like to strongly ha ha ha ha. STRONGLY suggest te use of some blue 242 thread locker on the bolt where the bushing nut is going. I had the passenger side but back off and the outer bushing plus the nut and washer all fell off and I didn’t even know it until I went to do the rear motor mount.
had to put the old one back on until I can order a new one. Oh and yes I had tightened it super tight.
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