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Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll

Old 05-04-2012, 05:23 AM
  #161  
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I actually think im gonna put the oem ones back on. I cant stand the rattle.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:39 AM
  #162  
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Screw polyurethane. Rubber bushings is where it is at.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:42 AM
  #163  
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Different strokes for different folks. I absolutely love the polyurethane bushings though.
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:39 AM
  #164  
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I finally installed the ES bushings and have no rattles or noise from them at all. Surprisingly my oem bushings were still in great shape.

I saved my old front lca's, so I plan on buying the es bushings and test fitting for that next.

Last edited by brian6speed; 06-01-2012 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:46 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by brian6speed View Post
I finally installed the ES bushings and have no rattles or noise from them at all. Surprisingly my oem bushings were still in great shape.

I saved my old front lca's, so I plan on buying the es bushings and test fitting for that next.
I have my set but still haven't installed. Gotta do it this weekend.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:06 PM
  #166  
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I got the Moog set and tried to install them today at work and could not break the flanged bolts at the LCA end of RR loose. I tried a breaker bar, blaster, and 3 different impact guns and nada.

Has anyone else ran into this issue? I need to get these bushings in asap, clunking sound has been progressively getting louder and worse.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:33 PM
  #167  
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Use a really long breaker bar. I used a 3' pipe on top of my 1' breaker bar.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:29 AM
  #168  
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Did you take the spindle off and the LBJ? If the spec is 119ft lbs why are they so damn tight?
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:50 AM
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^
Originally Posted by zeta View Post
I added to step #3 to indicate what I had to do to get the RR arm off the LCA, YMMV.

The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
a. Detach the outer tie rod end.
b. Detach the endlink from the swaybar.
c. Detach the strut damper fork from the strut and LCA and set it aside.

d. Detach the lower balljoint, I used the socket handle between the LCA & Knuckle method.
e. Swing the knuckle assembly, supported by a jack, forward slightly. This will move the axle forward and away from the LCA area where the RR flange bolts reside.
f. I used a 19mm impact socket on a long 1/2" breaker bar while slightly pushing down on the LCA to loosen them. Once they are removed from the LCA, follow the remaining steps below.

4. Remove the self-locking nut (I replaced mine, torque to 40 lbf-ft), washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.

When all suspension components have been reassembled, be sure to preload the suspension before torqueing all of their related fasteners.

Good Luck!

Last edited by zeta; 02-10-2013 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:41 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by ANC297 View Post
Did you take the spindle off and the LBJ? If the spec is 119ft lbs why are they so damn tight?
Nope, just managed to get a socket on the bolt then my breaker bar on the socket.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:20 PM
  #171  
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Heat them up, they will break loose much easier.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:31 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1 View Post
Heat them up, they will break loose much easier.
Im going to try at work again probably next week, the only reason I didnt try to heat them was because the endlink boots are like 3/4" off didnt want to melt them, but I can just take the endlink off I suppose.

Civic, I tried with a 2 foot breaker on a 1 foot bar and got nothing. I'll try heat next time.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:16 AM
  #173  
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They are torqued to 119ft lbs. So yes, it's going to be a bit tight. The radius rod keeps the entire wheel assembly from moving back and forth which is especially helpful during acceleration and stopping.

That's why it's so tight. A breaker bar and a strong 19mm socket will do the trick. A galvanized pipe extension can add some extra torque to the breaker bar.

Removing the strut fork will be necessary IIRC. A word of forewarning, it's going to be very hard to get everything back on with the new bushings. I stripped out my RR to LCA bolts and will have to goto the junkyard today to find a suitable LCA/RR replacement for my passenger side.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:25 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by FwC View Post
They are torqued to 119ft lbs. So yes, it's going to be a bit tight. The radius rod keeps the entire wheel assembly from moving back and forth which is especially helpful during acceleration and stopping.

That's why it's so tight. A breaker bar and a strong 19mm socket will do the trick. A galvanized pipe extension can add some extra torque to the breaker bar.

Removing the strut fork will be necessary IIRC. A word of forewarning, it's going to be very hard to get everything back on with the new bushings. I stripped out my RR to LCA bolts and will have to goto the junkyard today to find a suitable LCA/RR replacement for my passenger side.
There's a trick to avoid stripping those two bolts on the LCA and making your life easier. Jack the LCA up before trying to align everything up. Also you can torque the single radius rod nuts last so there is more play since the bushings aren't compressed. I hope that helps!
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:46 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by 1foxbody View Post
I understand but I don't have any wheel hop at all. Your right though that may change with a slick and being at the track so will see.
I am in the process of installing a 3.5 j35 V6 automatic swap in my 99 Accord with all new suspension, running sticky but stock 235/45/17s trying to keep the stock feel (stock springs) with this setup. I bought the MOOG RR bushings, ready to install them and came up on this thread, I would like to have 0 wheel hop with a nice daily driver feel would you recommend going with the OEMs, MOOGS or ES?
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:01 PM
  #176  
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I went with ES just based on the companies reputation. No issues or complaints. This alone won't completely get rid of wheel hop.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:09 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by brian6speed View Post
I went with ES just based on the companies reputation. No issues or complaints. This alone won't completely get rid of wheel hop.
Thank you for answering so quickly! I also have the Innovative 65a Polyurethane mounts, Ingalls Stiffy mount, I guess its not helping that my car is not lowered? Other than the stuff I mentioned, I am trying to keep all bushings rubber to avoid too harsh of a feel for a daily driven car in a big city where there are a lot of potholes, plus I dont feel like relubbing the poly bushings every 2 years when they start to squeak.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:12 PM
  #178  
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ES and Moog bushings are poly, not rubber. I went with ES as well, no issues over I dont even remember how many miles.

If youre still on stock suspension, you're going to have wheel hop.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
ES and Moog bushings are poly, not rubber. I went with ES as well, no issues over I dont even remember how many miles.

If youre still on stock suspension, you're going to have wheel hop.
I bought brand new KYB Gr2s, stock height springs though...

I know a company that makes custom springs, I ordered them for the rear of my car, they are about 25% stiffer than stock but at stock ride height, would you recommend getting the fronts as well, but maybe 30-35% stiffer?
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:20 PM
  #180  
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I would get slightly stiffer springs for the front as well.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
I would get slightly stiffer springs for the front as well.
Ok, cool!

Just wondering, in reference to the RR bushings being the only polyurethane in the car besides for the mounts, would I have any extra vibrations or harshness I am trying to avoid in a daily driver?
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:28 PM
  #182  
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You shouldnt. The RR bushings simply hold the radius rod (and LCA) from moving front and back. Id expect your springs/struts to soak up whatever vibrations they may cause.

Your mounts are polyurethane as well. Its a soft poly, but you may have some vibrations at idle with the a/c on.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
You shouldnt. The RR bushings simply hold the radius rod (and LCA) from moving front and back. Id expect your springs/struts to soak up whatever vibrations they may cause.

Your mounts are polyurethane as well. Its a soft poly, but you may have some vibrations at idle with the a/c on.
That's ok, a little vibe here and there is normal, just don't want a rattle box

So if I don't change those springs to slightly stiffer, I will get some wheel hop even though its an auto and I don't plan on drag racing it? (Highway abuse and some 2nd-3rd gear pulls)
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:35 PM
  #184  
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I think going with slightly stiffer springs will help reduce wheel hop. For sure, with the torque, the stock springs will give you wheel hop.

I dont know all the specs of your build though, so its hard for me to definitively say.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
I think going with slightly stiffer springs will help reduce wheel hop. For sure, with the torque, the stock springs will give you wheel hop.

I dont know all the specs of your build though, so its hard for me to definitively say.
I just don't fully understand how the ride height affects wheel hop I just tgought if the rear springs are stiffer the front shouldn't come up as much. Im expecting just around 250hp/250hp at the wheels on this build.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:46 PM
  #186  
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Its not ride height, its spring rate and damping that effects wheel hop.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
I think going with slightly stiffer springs will help reduce wheel hop. For sure, with the torque, the stock springs will give you wheel hop.

I dont know all the specs of your build though, so its hard for me to definitively say.
Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
Its not ride height, its spring rate and damping that effects wheel hop.
Makes sense, I might be able to exchange those kybs for something stiffer on all 4 corners until I get a different spring, any recommendations?
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:10 PM
  #188  
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If you are going to exchange the struts, look at Koni. I love their stuff.

But the spring would make a bigger difference.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:32 PM
  #189  
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Koni Yellows?
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:35 PM
  #190  
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Yea. Lifetime warranty plus Koni can build them however you like.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:19 PM
  #191  
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You want a shock like the Koni that has adjustable Rebound and Dampening. Stiffer springs wont do anything. The shock is what helps control the movement. (along with the other mounts you have) I have the Konis and for about 99% of the time i have zero hop. The only time i tend to occasionally get it is on wet pavement, never on dry
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:51 PM
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:31 AM
  #193  
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found this video on changing the RR bushings, seems simple enough


any tips on torquing the flange bolts to spec?
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:38 PM
  #194  
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Just to chime in, I was having a lot of creaking noises when starting and stopping coming from the suspension. I found that the problem was the radius rod bushings. (also called strut rod bushings. The old ones still felt good, very rubbery, but I thought this had to be the cause of the noises. I checked all the ball joints and control arm bushings, the shocks are new Monroe (came on the car), and the top mounts look good, all the bolts were checked for tightness, and still having noise.

I replaced the RR bushings with cheap MEVOTECH "improved design" blue bushings from Rock Auto. They seem to be more like polyurethane. Much harder than the original rubber. It was not too much trouble. I dropped the LCA off the bottom shock mount and got access to the RR bolts with 19mm ratchet wrench. The noise is gone. So if you have creaking / popping noise when starting and stopping, change these bushings.

I also did the sway bar mount bushings, but I doubt that was the problem.

I replaced the outer tie rod ends which really firmed up the steering and eliminated some highway wobble I was seeing. That was a really cheap and easy job too.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:33 AM
  #195  
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I found another item while researching.

http://www.armstrongdistributors.com/honda.html

ADUS 682 - Honda Accord Front Upper Control Arm Bushing Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive ADUS 682 - Honda Accord Front Upper Control Arm Bushing Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive


http://store.lpdautoparts.com/9802--...shing9802.html

They are poly front upper control arm bushings for the 98-02 accord which has the same control arms as us and the 2nd gen tl.

So now I have provided info on the rr bushings, lca bushings, and upper control arm bushings.

I will order a set and install them in my spare control arms.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:34 PM
  #196  
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Looks like I will be adding a few things to my list when it comes time to drop the sub frame for my 3.5 swap
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:57 PM
  #197  
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What will the bushings do for us again?
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:40 PM
  #198  
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The short answer they help will keep the front wheels stay in proper alignment to the ground, preventing wheel hop, axle bind and make the steering feel more responsive. Not to mention with age of these cars the factory rubber has lived its life, its time for a replacement so why not make things a little better in the process .
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:43 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by jonUF02 View Post
Just to chime in, I was having a lot of creaking noises when starting and stopping coming from the suspension. I found that the problem was the radius rod bushings. (also called strut rod bushings. The old ones still felt good, very rubbery, but I thought this had to be the cause of the noises. I checked all the ball joints and control arm bushings, the shocks are new Monroe (came on the car), and the top mounts look good, all the bolts were checked for tightness, and still having noise.

I replaced the RR bushings with cheap MEVOTECH "improved design" blue bushings from Rock Auto. They seem to be more like polyurethane. Much harder than the original rubber. It was not too much trouble. I dropped the LCA off the bottom shock mount and got access to the RR bolts with 19mm ratchet wrench. The noise is gone. So if you have creaking / popping noise when starting and stopping, change these bushings.

I also did the sway bar mount bushings, but I doubt that was the problem.

I replaced the outer tie rod ends which really firmed up the steering and eliminated some highway wobble I was seeing. That was a really cheap and easy job too.
Was this popping and creaking noise you described coming from the rear I think I have this issue and its getting worse. i haven't been able to figure out what it is.
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:10 PM
  #200  
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Considering he is talking about rr bushings and tie rods that would be the front suspension, not the rear.
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