Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll - Page 2 - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

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Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll

 
Old 08-05-2011, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6speed View Post
wtf, are you a girl or a 10 year old boy who hasnt hit puberty yet.


Gee so sensitive. WTF!! Ever heard of a joke? Hope the rest of this community aren't little punks!
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Old 08-05-2011, 05:22 PM
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Two things.

1 - Red text is used for sarcasm

2 - Make funnier jokes
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Skatin View Post
Gee so sensitive. WTF!! Ever heard of a joke? Hope the rest of this community aren't little punks!
Just because I replied to a remark made about me dsnt mean I am extra sensative. Try posting something useful instead of this crap.
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6speed View Post
Just because I replied to a remark made about me dsnt mean I am extra sensative. Try posting something useful instead of this crap.


Get over it! Hairy!!! Hahahahahaa
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:11 PM
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I wish we could vote for bannings
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:21 PM
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LOl
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:28 PM
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I wish i took pictures when i replaced bushings for help...

Actually i found diy for oddy. not really detailed though, but i think it's enough for people who wants pics.

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/28-199...rm-bushes.html
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:17 PM
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Okay, I'm good now. It was all sorted out on the TL forum that the Moog parts work . . it was a poor description and poor memory on my part.

Anyway, looks like we have a better bushing option with the Moog parts. And we know that the 5th gen Prelude-Base (not SH) and 6th Gen Accords share the same radius rod bushings.

Now more of us know.

Ruf
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:37 AM
  #49  
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I wish the company that made the solid bushings for the Prelude was still around
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:35 AM
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I had an alignment performed today and everything is in the green. The driverside caster came in at 2.9 and the passenger side caster 3.5.

The alignment tech stated that you want .5 of a degree more caster on the passenger side to account for the crown in the road? Otherwise, the car would tend to pull to the right.

If I shim the passenger side, theoretically, it should bring the caster in at 3.0. The center line for caster is at 2.8. The manual states that one adjustment washer calibrates to about .5 degrees.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
I had an alignment performed today and everything is in the green. The driverside caster came in at 2.9 and the passenger side caster 3.5.

The alignment tech stated that you want .5 of a degree more caster on the passenger side to account for the crown in the road? Otherwise, the car would tend to pull to the right.

If I shim the passenger side, theoretically, it should bring the caster in at 3.0. The center line for caster is at 2.8. The manual states that one adjustment washer calibrates to about .5 degrees.
Don't know all the specifics, but regarding the crown factor, that is true. Most roads have a crown, meaning they slop ever so slightly to the right so that when it rains the water will run off quicker. However, what I found is that the degree of crown varies a bit depending on whether it is a 1 lane, 2 lane, 3 lane or 4 lane.

Also, if you have a lot of curves where you live or like to corner hard, I like to have my camber changed so that the tire stays a bit flatter during cornering. It will also help to keep the outer edge of the front tires from wearing out so fast.

Here's a link that may help a bit.

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Ruf
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
I wish we could vote for bannings
Holy sh!t civic, what did you do to get yourself banned? hehe

Originally Posted by RUF87 View Post
Don't know all the specifics, but regarding the crown factor, that is true.

Here's a link that may help a bit.

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Ruf
Thanks for the link, excellent info. there.

Update:
I had a moderate shimmey going on in the front at 65 mph and above. I rotated the tires and it went away. Got all of the tires rebalanced and it is all good now. Steering stability and straight line steadiness when braking from high speeds is firm and smooth, so I'm sticking with the current caster setup for now.

Not even going to test for wheel hop because I'm trying to milk my clutch since it will need replacement soon. The front suspension now feels like how the car was when it was NEW and WITHOUT THE WEIGHT of the S/C'er. I'm very pleased and highly recommend replacing the OEM radius rod bushings if your vehicle has more than 125K miles.

Let's hear from somemore of you guys who've bought and replaced the MOOGs. If you DIY, you WILL notice, before connecting the lower BJ, the increased stiffness in flexsion when the radius rod is connected at the LCA.
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:08 AM
  #53  
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^ I'll let you know how the Moog radius rod bushings work out.
I Just ordered them today along with the Moog lower ball joints.

Anyone ever thought about painting any off their suspension pieces.
Like radius rods,lower + upper arms,knuckle etc. ?
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Old 08-15-2011, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by richardparker View Post
^ I'll let you know how the Moog radius rod bushings work out. I Just ordered them today along with the Moog lower ball joints.
Good deal!

A few tips when installing the new radius rod bushings:

1. Make sure to loosen the self lock nut at the front of the RR before removing the two RR bolts at the LCA. This will keep the RR from spining when trying to remove the self lock nut.

2. If possible, make sure to clean the area in the front beam (front/rear) that houses the RR bushings and put some silicone grease in there. It will reduce any potential noises that may arise. Also, place some silicone grease on either the front RR washer or on the bushing where the washer meets the bushing. It will help let the washer spin when it comes time to torque to 40 lbs-ft.

When you get the knuckle free from the LCA to replace the BJ's, take note of how stiff the OEM RR bushings are when moving the LCA up and down as a connected unit. The movement of the LCA AFTER the new Moog RR bushings go in should be significantly stiffer as compared to the OEMs.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
Let's hear from somemore of you guys who've bought and replaced the MOOGs. If you DIY, you WILL notice, before connecting the lower BJ, the increased stiffness in flexsion when the radius rod is connected at the LCA.
For clarity...are you saying replaced the MOOGs another product or replaced stock with MOOGs?
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Blitz View Post
For clarity...are you saying replaced the MOOGs another product or replaced stock with MOOGs?
Replace the OEMs with Moogs.

I've replaced my OEMs with the ES ones mentioned previously and felt a significant difference in stiffness.

I'm just trying to get someone who has opted for the Moogs to chime in on their experience/impressions. anthracitecl has provided feedback on the Moogs thus far.

RUF87 found another website that offers RR bushings for the CL-S as well; however, they may be softer then the Moogs or ES because the website states:
These are direct replacement parts. These parts are made by companies that manufacture parts for your car or truck from the factory.

http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/r...tion=000783109

Last edited by zeta; 08-15-2011 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:15 PM
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Ok, gotcha.
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:03 AM
  #58  
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I still have this on my list. I think I have just about ever other part of my suspension new waiting to be installed when I get my car back (Today?)...

I figured I can try the Moogs out. But after reading about the old Prelude metal bearings I also figured I could have a machine shop make some easy enough if I took measurements. But judging by those comparison photos the Moogs are a definitely improvement ("rigidity wise") over Oem.
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CLSspeedx View Post
I figured I can try the Moogs out. But after reading about the old Prelude metal bearings I also figured I could have a machine shop make some easy enough if I took measurements.
Can you provide a link or something in regards to these 'Prelude metal bearings'. I've seen this mentioned before and would like to read up on it. Frankly, after observing the housing where the RR bushings seat, I do not see how a 'metal replacement' for the radius rod bushings (if i'm understanding this correctly) is going to allow for the LCA and radius rod to move up and down with the suspension without bending the front portion of the radius rod that fits through the collar.
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:19 PM
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Here is one of the discussion threads I had read.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-cl-discussion-2000-2003-50/radius-rod-bushings-stop-wheel-hop-727900/

I think the company that was making the prelude bushings went out of business before anyone (at least following the thread) got a change to try them :/
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by CLSspeedx View Post
Here is one of the discussion threads I had read.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727900

I think the company that was making the prelude bushings went out of business before anyone (at least following the thread) got a change to try them :/
Yeah, I've been through that thread before. To bad jproy did not implant a visual on those RR bearings. That would help me understand the engineering of that application greatly. Oh well.
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
Yeah, I've been through that thread before. To bad jproy did not implant a visual on those RR bearings. That would help me understand the engineering of that application greatly. Oh well.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70053

There are other ways people have attacked this.

http://www.rrsproducts.com/strutrodproducts.php
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g.../photo_10.html
http://www.mustangii.net/forums/topi...TOPIC_ID=15863

Last edited by RooEng; 08-17-2011 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
I do not see how a 'metal replacement' for the radius rod bushings (if i'm understanding this correctly) is going to allow for the LCA and radius rod to move up and down with the suspension without bending the front portion of the radius rod that fits through the collar.
The heim joint. That makes sense to me now. I just could'nt picture it before.

Well done RooEng.
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:25 AM
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Got another little package today.

It's sprinkling outside so I'm just chilling inside but,when the sun comes out I will be going to work. ( playing with my toy )
Got to keep it riding right.
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:12 PM
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^ Looking forward to hearing your input on the Moogs. Now that I look at those pictures you provided, it appears the Moogs have a design element at the conical tip that the ES Accord bushings lack. The picture on ES's website mirror the exact shape of the OEMs but are, of course, made with their firmer bushing compound.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103


Last edited by zeta; 08-18-2011 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:20 PM
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I did the passenger side today balljoint and radius rod bushing.
Just from that side the car feels so tight. left to right and off the line.
But their is no comparison in the moog bushings and the oem in hand.
The oem's are so soft you can flex them everyway and the moog are so stiff and you can not flex them at all unless using all your strenth.
I know my cars never felt so tight ever and I did not feel any wheel hop at all spinning the tires.
The car also seemed like it shifted into 2nd more crisp wot.
I'm going to do the driver side tomorrow.
I'll post again after the other side.
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Old 08-19-2011, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by richardparker View Post
I did the passenger side today balljoint and radius rod bushing.
Just from that side the car feels so tight. left to right and off the line.
But their is no comparison in the moog bushings and the oem in hand.
The oem's are so soft you can flex them everyway and the moog are so stiff and you can not flex them at all unless using all your strenth.
I know my cars never felt so tight ever and I did not feel any wheel hop at all spinning the tires.The car also seemed like it shifted into 2nd more crisp wot.
I'm going to do the driver side tomorrow.
I'll post again after the other side.
Good to hear.
There is a significant difference in suspension firmness when the OEMs are replaced with either the Moogs or the ES Accord bushings.
Thanks for the validation.
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:19 PM
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One thing to note is I was installing the drivers side bushing today and they did not snug up.
So after un-installing I noticed the sleeve that came with the bushings was about 1/4" to long.
Swaped it out for the old sleeve and it went together fine.
Now I'm wondering about the passenger side I allready did.
I need to go check it again to make sure that side is snugged up.
I allready threw the other old sleeve in my trash can and if it's to long too I will have to go threw some trash before trash day.
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Old 08-19-2011, 05:24 PM
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Here's the difference in lenth.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:47 PM
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I clicked on the part # for the moog on rock auto and it brought up all these vehicles that use the same part

ACURA CL (1997 - 2003)
ACURA CL S (2001 - 2003)
ACURA TL (1995 - 2003)
ACURA TL S (2002 - 2003)
ACURA VIGOR GS (1992 - 1994)
ACURA VIGOR LS (1992 - 1994)
HONDA ACCORD 10TH ANNIVERSARY 1993
HONDA ACCORD 25TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION 1996
HONDA ACCORD DX (1990 - 2002)
HONDA ACCORD EX (1990 - 2002)
HONDA ACCORD EX-R (1991 - 1997)
HONDA ACCORD LX (1990 - 2002)
HONDA ACCORD SE (1991 - 2002)
HONDA ACCORD VALUE PACKAGE (1996 - 2002)
HONDA ODYSSEY EX (1995 - 1998)
HONDA ODYSSEY LX (1995 - 1998)
HONDA PRELUDE (1997 - 2001)
HONDA PRELUDE 4WS (1993 - 1994)
HONDA PRELUDE S (1992 - 1996)
HONDA PRELUDE SE 1995
HONDA PRELUDE SH (1997 - 2001)
HONDA PRELUDE SI (1992 - 1996)
HONDA PRELUDE SI 4WS 1992
HONDA PRELUDE VTEC (1993 - 1996)
ISUZU OASIS (1998 - 1999)
ISUZU OASIS LS (1996 - 1997)
ISUZU OASIS S (1996 - 1997)
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Old 08-29-2011, 12:54 PM
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^ If you replace these on your TL, let us know your impressions and how they help/hinder your handling on track days.
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:37 PM
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i need to fix my car and get the moog bushings in already
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Old 08-29-2011, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
^ If you replace these on your TL, let us know your impressions and how they help/hinder your handling on track days.
I ordered them, was hoping they would come today. Should be tomorrow. Let you know my impressions shortly after i get them
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by richardparker View Post
Here's the difference in lenth.
how did you put the bushings in? tapered edge in or out? They are supposed to be tapered edge out which makes the length of the sleeve correct.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:03 AM
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Car is much tighter with the Moog radius rod bushings. I could tell just backing out of the driveway. Turn in response seems to be much better as well. Overall i am happy with them so far. Lets see how they hold up
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1 View Post
Car is much tighter with the Moog radius rod bushings. I could tell just backing out of the driveway. Turn in response seems to be much better as well. Overall i am happy with them so far. Lets see how they hold up


Just curious, did you end up using the collars supplied with the Moogs or the OEMs?

The reason I ask is because it seems, logically, that if those of you who install the Moogs use the OEM collars, which are shorter, then the compression on the bushings, after torqueing to 40 lbs-ft, would be greater due to their shorter collar length. Thus, perhaps improving the Moogs overall effect?

How did your OEMs look after 200K+ miles. hehe.

Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1 View Post
how did you put the bushings in? tapered edge in or out? They are supposed to be tapered edge out which makes the length of the sleeve correct.
Originally Posted by zeta View Post


Just curious, did you end up using the collars supplied with the Moogs or the OEMs?

The reason I ask is because it seems, logically, that if those of you who install the Moogs use the OEM collars, which are shorter, then the compression on the bushings, after torqueing to 40 lbs-ft, would be greater due to their shorter collar length. Thus, perhaps improving the Moogs overall effect?

How did your OEMs look after 200K+ miles. hehe.

Thanks for the feedback.
If you read fstty post 2 up I think he answered your question. He said the moogs have a tapered edge and that is why the collars are longer. You install them with tapered edge out. According to that I would assume he used moog collars. I would think moog knows what they are doing since this part fits so many vehicles.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post


Just curious, did you end up using the collars supplied with the Moogs or the OEMs?

The reason I ask is because it seems, logically, that if those of you who install the Moogs use the OEM collars, which are shorter, then the compression on the bushings, after torqueing to 40 lbs-ft, would be greater due to their shorter collar length. Thus, perhaps improving the Moogs overall effect?

How did your OEMs look after 200K+ miles. hehe.

Thanks for the feedback.
Originally Posted by brian6speed View Post
If you read fstty post 2 up I think he answered your question. He said the moogs have a tapered edge and that is why the collars are longer. You install them with tapered edge out. According to that I would assume he used moog collars. I would think moog knows what they are doing since this part fits so many vehicles.
Also if you compress them too much you may hinder their ability to do their job correctly and not last as long?.

Oh and its 450k miles, not 200k. They looked worn
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6speed View Post
If you read fstty post 2 up I think he answered your question. He said the moogs have a tapered edge and that is why the collars are longer. You install them with tapered edge out. According to that I would assume he used moog collars. I would think moog knows what they are doing since this part fits so many vehicles.
Yes, I agree. I guess what I was questioning was the vertical size of the Moogs vs the OEMs. From the bushing picture that richardparker provided above, it appears that the Moogs are slightly larger, vertically, as they would sit one their base. Which, inturn, would explain the increased size of the collar provided by Moog.

A picture of the Moog bushings vs OEMs, like richardparkers collar picture side-by-side, would prove/disprove the point I'm trying to articulate via text.

Last edited by zeta; 09-01-2011 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1 View Post
Also if you compress them too much you may hinder their ability to do their job correctly and not last as long?.
Yes, that's what I was wondering as well because of their appearance of increased size over the OEMs that mirror the size of the ES's that I used.

Originally Posted by fsttyms1 View Post
Oh and its 450k miles, not 200k. They looked worn
Wow, I guess so, hehe
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