njlakeshoreg

hey guys, i been looking for a steel lightweight flywheel for my 03 cl 6mt.....any clue if its made for this car??? i would imagine they have it for a accord or newer tl, but i know the cl uses a dual crank trigger

i would go with the AASCO aluminum but i am not sure if it makes a lot of noise at idle or not...

clutchwise i think i will go with a oem clutch as i am only bolted on and enjoy driveability, and how long it lasts, does anyone have a suggestion???

thanks!!!

C-STYL

I just got a OEM Luk clutch kit on ebay for ~$200 + shipping and the AASCO flywheel (and transmission mounts) from the forum sponsor mrheeltoe. From my research it's seems the best approach for my car with headers and CAI.

njlakeshoreg

do you have it installed yet??? im worried about the noise from a aluminum lightweight flywheel

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Can you run the oem clutch with the light weight flywheel?

C-STYL

The flywheel is still in shipping so not yet but I haven't read anyone mention excess noise/rattle on the CL. I guess I'll find our first hand though... it's going in regardless of noise. Plus I'm sure it won't drown out the idle vibration noise the new poly mounts are going to make I plan to do the install early August and can post my experience then.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

In for reviews! Good luck

C-STYL

As I understand it does. No?

njlakeshoreg

i was going to get acura oem clutch, has anyone else used this LUK one??

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Same exact thing. LUK makes the clutches for Acura in our cars.

C-STYL

+1

And here is the ebay auction I got my kit from last month. Product as described, fast shipping and one of the lowest prices I could find.

Canada
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LUK-08-047-Cl...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

USA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUK-08-047-Clutch-Clutch-Kit-/271238796478?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AAcura%7CModel%3ACL&hash=item3f271794be&vxp=mtr

mikebikelife

iTrader: (3)

acura_dipset_tl

iTrader: (40)

Just some food for thought don't buy it from ebay its cheaper if you get it from partsgeek. They sell them for $164 shipped. Also make sure the person who's installing your clutch can pre set the clutch. There was a lot of talk in the 3g section about luk clutch kits come pre set, but through shipping they might get moved around thus needing to be pre set before installing.

Here's the link to the 3g section https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/luk-clutch-do-not-come-preset-come-inside-860524/

fsttyms1

When i did my swap i just bolted it up. 200k later and im still on the same clutch

acura_dipset_tl

iTrader: (40)

That's great news. I wonder what all the fuss was on the 3g side.

C-STYL

You are absolutely right on this but living in Canada, it can prove difficult getting a supplier to ship up here and when they do, to also use the proper shipping methods so you don't get dinged with excessive hidden brokerage fees. I wasn't able to select Canada on their online checkout form but I should mention I didn't really look into whether partsgeek ships to Canada or not. That is a good price for anyone living in the US... you guys really are fortunate.

TylerT

iTrader: (1)

I ordered the LUK kit yesterday.

Don't mean to go off topic, but would you recommend replacing anything other than the flywheel / clutch? Maybe the slave / master cylinder?

Car has 129,000 miles as of yesterday; still on the original clutch.

njlakeshoreg

i wouldnt replace a freekin thing, lol.........not unless you need too!!! i dont think i would use a aluminum flywheel for my car evera gain, i would only use a lightened steel or stay oem and cut it and put a oem style clutch in unless you are going bigger power!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

go with oem or that LUK kit i had one in hands and it looked identical to the oem one...

do not use light flywheel by itself with oem rest, disc is unsprung and you gonna need some dampening...

fsttyms1

I've never had a issue with a lightweight flywheel and stock disc/pressure plate on past Hondas just need to learn to drive it a little different

rush

iTrader: (1)

Asscco fixed the noise & chartering issue i was the first person with it back in 08when it was $1200.
BUT you'll be fine

C-STYL

So the LUK c, pp and Assco flywheel are going in today and I just received a call from the shop regarding the flywheel fitment. The issue is described as when mounted there is significant space between the flywheel and back of the engine The mechanic, then I called aasco support (which seems really good btw), they're suspicious that the pilot bearing isn't sitting right in the flywheel. Also the mech. mentioned some fitting issues with the dowel pins.

I'm going there after work to take pictures for aasco support so we can properly assess what the problem is.

So far, not so good.

C-STYL

I left work early to see what the problem was and with the pilot bearing seated in the new flywheel and mounted up to the crank, there was ~ 4-5 mm gap between the contact surface of the flywheel and crank because pilot bearing comes into contact first. The new bearing that came with the kit and one that we are replacing are exactly the same. Also confirmed with aasco the measurement of the flywheel so we don't think it's defective part. So what we are going to do is at the point where the pilot bearing comes into contact with the crank, it spaces out ~5 mm so if we shave off a bit of that, we can eliminate most of the gap then tighten the bolts to (hopefully) pull it in flush.

Now why is this happening? I'm not sure. My car is a Canadian bought car but we checked the VIN, it was made in the US like all the others.

I should have it back tomorrow and plan on doing some videos for those who are interested. Also replacing the 2 transmission mounts and I'm going to have them throw in the XLR8 poly front mount. Side mount is already in and not sure if I want to do the rear yet (insert brown belt jokes here )

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

Interested to see how it turns out and if it makes noise. I hope milling it down fixes the problem

C-STYL

I'm anticipating some noise and from what I saw today the plan should resolve the problem. But still have to the a bit.

C-STYL

Picked up the car today with no additional problems. Milling down the section on the crank surface where the bearing comes into contact allowed the two surfaces to the mount flush.

First impressions.

Flywheel: There is no additional rattle/noise in neutral or in gear. Revs much quicker as you’d come to expect and I’m working on some before and after videos.

Transmission Mounts: I had ordered two new transmission mounts for ~$100 which I figured might as well have them swapped in while there. The car drove really rough prior to this job and better now. Hard to judge the exact impact these made but it’s comforting knowing these mounts are fresh.

Front XLR8 Poly Mount: Now the front and side mounts are in but the rear is still original. I really can’t say there are additional vibrations due to the stiffer mounts and overall I’m happy with final result.

I’m going to grace the all new parts with a generous break in period so I can’t provide my when really pushing it but under normal driving conditions I’m happy ( under statement ) with the drive. I’ll update if I run into any issues moving forward.

Some plugs… Vince at aasco support was very helpful and MrHeeltoe was accommodating in getting the transmission mounts along with the flywheel purchase. Shipping to Canada is much cheaper if you can get all the parts from a single source.

njlakeshoreg

very nice thanks for all the heads up!!! tomorrow i am having the LUK kit installed and resurfacing the flywheel

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

do you have pictures of the part you had to mill down?

keep us updated!

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

I'm glad you got it worked out, and there are no adverse affects. Working on doing the 6 speed swap and think this would be a good set up to go with. I would be interested to hear back after things have broken in.

C-STYL

I hope your flywheel is still good. They said mine was toast. Also read many cases arguing for and against resurfacing dual mass flywheels. I took the advice of my regular mechanic who is against and just replaced it.

C-STYL

I didn't take pictures because at the time we resolved it with aasco support over the phone. I really wish I did though.

With a bit of imagination and the picture I found below I can do my best to illustrate. In this image on the mounting surface of the crankshaft, at the center where the pilot bearing in the flywheel would contact, it appears to gradients inwards where on my car it spaces out just a bit. As result of this the pilot bearing and that section of the crankshaft bottoms out before the two flat surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft meet. The resulting gap was ~4 mm which is quite a bit. Tightening down the crank bolts like that, something would have to give being the bearing or the aluminum itself. So aasco support, the mechanic and I came to the consensus to just shave down that section of the crankshaft allowing the two surfaces to properly contact.

Hope that makes sense? This is the last flywheel this car will see so I'm not worried about next time. The mod looked reasonable, made sense and the car still drives good on day two. You'll see it on here if something happens as a result of this.

njlakeshoreg

well long story short, my mechanic advised me to not cut the flywheel, he did show me my existing flywheel and it was perfect, so we went wth it,

N ICE!!



UPDATE:::::::::::LUK kit is awesome!!! $156 shipped from AMAZON, great deal and is a awesome feeling clutch!

njlakeshoreg

How is your aasco??

C-STYL

Shifts are smooth but after a week of daily driving I keep thinking a bit too smooth for a new clutch as well. When the clutch engages, it doesn't bite like it did when I first had the car at 50k km but then again I just reduced the weight of the flywheel by quite a bit so less rotational inertia. I feel as if I sacrificed the the pull provided by the heavier flywheel when shifting for faster revs through the rpm just to balance each other from a performance stand point. The car is my daily driver so I like the resulting drive but I can understand why some people don't recommend this mod for faster straight line times.

I'm still working on the before and after video but I have to learn the video editing program first I'm going to take a new after video without the rusted out exhaust leak just fixed today. Canadian salty roads for the loss.