2003 CL 6 speed in a 2004 Odyssey - Page 5 - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

Notices

2003 CL 6 speed in a 2004 Odyssey

 
Old 02-23-2017, 12:10 PM
  #161  
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
 
rockstar143's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 66,022
Thanked 14,560 Times in 10,876 Posts
I still love this thread...
thanks for keeping us a breast.
rockstar143 is offline  
Old 02-24-2017, 02:21 PM
  #162  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Just for reference.

johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 02-26-2017, 10:49 AM
  #163  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
I wanna stress how important it is to have the proper info when doing a swap like this. This morning I cut PCM connector E from the CLs harness and started crimping the adapter onto the end in order to connect it to the Ody's harness. The service manual I have shows pin E13 (FANC) as being blue with a red trace. It's not, it's green. I ran out and looked at the corresponding wire on the Ody's harness. It is blue/red. I looked at the Ody's service manual. It shows that wire to be labeled FANC, so that info jives but I was still worried. I didn't want to move forward until I had some kind of concrete evidence that I was doing things right. I pulled the CLs Electrical Troubleshooting Manual out and looked up the fan controller schematic for the manual transmission. Turns out it's green for the M/T and blue/red for the A/T. I'm using the Acura's radiator and fans so I will be able to finish the wiring on both ends. This isn't like my old 57 F100. One crossed wire could set me WAY back if I were to accidentally fry the PCM. Don't guess at this stuff guys. Get the manuals. I paid $15 for the Ody's service manual on Craigslist, downloaded the Ody's Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for free on Odyclub.com, got the CLs service manual for $22 online, and the CLs Electrical Troubleshooting manual for $15 on eBay. I couldn't have done this without this info.

That said, let me know if you need any schematics or anything out of these manuals. I'm happy to post pics.



johnboy1313 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to johnboy1313 For This Useful Post:
teh CL (02-26-2017)
Old 02-26-2017, 11:11 AM
  #164  
Moderator
 
cu2wagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Dirty H-Town, Amerikkka
Posts: 21,005
Thanked 4,182 Times in 2,986 Posts
Good catch! And one of the reasons that many people are unwilling to perform such a procedure on their own. You really need to understand the bigger picture, even when working at this level.

cu2wagon is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to cu2wagon For This Useful Post:
teh CL (02-26-2017)
Old 02-26-2017, 11:49 AM
  #165  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
The finished adapter. I've still gotta put the other connectors on the Ody's harness but you get the idea.

johnboy1313 is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to johnboy1313 For This Useful Post:
TacoBello (02-28-2017), teh CL (02-26-2017)
Old 02-26-2017, 11:54 AM
  #166  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by johnboy1313 View Post
Just for reference.

One more thing. On the 2000 Odyssey, the electrical Troubleshooting Manual showed pin A1 as SHO2S. Turns out it's actually A23. There is no A1 on the 2000 Ody.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 02-26-2017, 03:28 PM
  #167  
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Karanx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 28
Posts: 3,843
Thanked 449 Times in 368 Posts
Are you using the CL-S6 ECU or the original Odyssey ECU? I don't think you'll be able to retain 100% functionality with the Odyssey ECU.
Karanx7 is offline  
Old 02-26-2017, 03:38 PM
  #168  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by Karanx7 View Post
Are you using the CL-S6 ECU or the original Odyssey ECU? I don't think you'll be able to retain 100% functionality with the Odyssey ECU.
Im using the CL computer.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 02-26-2017, 10:12 PM
  #169  
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
 
rondog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: yonkers, NY
Age: 40
Posts: 8,323
Thanked 122 Times in 95 Posts
Loving this, can't wait to see vids and the finished product!
rondog is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to rondog For This Useful Post:
johnboy1313 (02-27-2017)
Old 02-28-2017, 08:45 AM
  #170  
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Karanx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 28
Posts: 3,843
Thanked 449 Times in 368 Posts
Originally Posted by johnboy1313 View Post
Im using the CL computer.
Okay, let me know if you get stuck or have any questions. I've setup my Auto TL using the manual CL computer before.
Karanx7 is offline  
Old 02-28-2017, 09:16 AM
  #171  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by Karanx7 View Post
Okay, let me know if you get stuck or have any questions. I've setup my Auto TL using the manual CL computer before.
Will do. Did you have to change anything in the Data Link Connector (OBD II)?
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 02-28-2017, 09:35 AM
  #172  
Registered Member
 
TacoBello's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: In an igloo
Posts: 30,496
Thanked 4,403 Times in 3,312 Posts
man, I would never even hesitate to do a swap like this... until it came to the electrical. That stuff is like trying to comprehend an alien language to me.

But then again, I still have problems setting the clock on my VCR, so you know...
TacoBello is offline  
Old 02-28-2017, 09:43 AM
  #173  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by TacoBello View Post
But then again, I still have problems setting the clock on my VCR, so you know...
Mine's been blinking 12:00 since 1996.
johnboy1313 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to johnboy1313 For This Useful Post:
TacoBello (02-28-2017)
Old 02-28-2017, 09:50 AM
  #174  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by TacoBello View Post
until it came to the electrical. That stuff is like trying to comprehend an alien language to me.
Maybe it will give me some clout with our new masters when the robots take over. After tackling this, I'm convinced it's gonna happen someday.
johnboy1313 is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to johnboy1313 For This Useful Post:
TacoBello (02-28-2017), thoiboi (02-28-2017)
Old 02-28-2017, 10:27 AM
  #175  
Moderator
 
thoiboi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SoCal, CA
Posts: 37,301
Thanked 5,734 Times in 4,599 Posts
Originally Posted by TacoBello View Post
But then again, I still have problems setting the clock on my VCR, so you know...
You've finally upgraded from the Betamax huh?
thoiboi is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to thoiboi For This Useful Post:
TacoBello (02-28-2017)
Old 03-05-2017, 02:30 PM
  #176  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
I'm just gonna leave this here. It's not finished but at least it fits. I'm so stoked right now.

johnboy1313 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to johnboy1313 For This Useful Post:
TacoBello (03-06-2017)
Old 03-05-2017, 02:31 PM
  #177  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
I think those animal sacrifices are working.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-05-2017, 05:01 PM
  #178  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
The ECU is in and wired.
johnboy1313 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to johnboy1313 For This Useful Post:
TacoBello (03-06-2017)
Old 03-06-2017, 11:59 AM
  #179  
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
teh CL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Oakville, Ont
Age: 31
Posts: 13,750
Thanked 632 Times in 466 Posts
Good show.

Must have been fun drilling for the master cylinder
teh CL is offline  
Old 03-06-2017, 12:14 PM
  #180  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by teh CL View Post
Good show.

Must have been fun drilling for the master cylinder
That part's not done yet. I'm a fan of small victories.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-07-2017, 05:31 PM
  #181  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
For those of you that asked, the transmission mounts bolt directly to the K-member.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-07-2017, 08:09 PM
  #182  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Extended clutch rod.

The master cylinder is going to be a good distance away from the pedal. I had to add some to the clutch rod. This a piece of tubing with a nut welded in each end.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-07-2017, 08:45 PM
  #183  
Registered Member
 
TacoBello's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: In an igloo
Posts: 30,496
Thanked 4,403 Times in 3,312 Posts
Whoa... Why aren't you bolting it to the firewall? There's a lot of force put on the CMC, with the clutch pedal. You want zero movement whatsoever when it comes to the CMC... I'm curious to see what you have planned for it. Seems like you're creating a lot of extra work for it. I'm not sure what the odyssey engine bay looks like, but for the TL, RSX, etc, the CMC gets tucked between the driver's side strut tower and firewall... It's a pain in the ass to install in there!
TacoBello is offline  
Old 03-07-2017, 09:49 PM
  #184  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by TacoBello View Post
Whoa... Why aren't you bolting it to the firewall?
Cause there's a strut tower in the way. There is no space between the strut tower and the firewall. The back of the strut tower is the firewall.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-08-2017, 12:09 PM
  #185  
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Karanx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 28
Posts: 3,843
Thanked 449 Times in 368 Posts
Originally Posted by johnboy1313 View Post
Cause there's a strut tower in the way. There is no space between the strut tower and the firewall. The back of the strut tower is the firewall.
Yea, the TL and CL have a very tight fit for the clutch master cylinder, but it looks like the Odyssey has actually no space there. Gotta do what you have to.
Karanx7 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Karanx7 For This Useful Post:
johnboy1313 (03-08-2017)
Old 03-09-2017, 08:21 AM
  #186  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Not a whole lot to report this morning. When I was stripping the Acura, one of the bell-housing bolts pulled all of the threads out, the starter bolt that the ground strap runs to broke off, and one of the slave cylinder bolts broke off (the head broke off, the rest of the stud is seized in the body of the slave cylinder). Last night, I heli-coiled the stripped hole in the block and drilled the broken stud out of the starter. I was able to use a piece of 1/4-20 rod with a nut on each end to hold the starter together. I still have to figure out how to get the slave cylinder off of the broken stud to try to get the stud out. I'm planning on putting the engine and transmission in this weekend.

How is the slave cylinder coupled to the clutch fork? Once the trans is installed, will I be able to pull the clutch fork lever away from the slave cylinder with a ratchet strap in order to get to the slave cylinder? I can't get it off of the stud with the clutch fork attached.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-09-2017, 10:55 AM
  #187  
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Karanx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 28
Posts: 3,843
Thanked 449 Times in 368 Posts
Originally Posted by johnboy1313 View Post
Not a whole lot to report this morning. When I was stripping the Acura, one of the bell-housing bolts pulled all of the threads out, the starter bolt that the ground strap runs to broke off, and one of the slave cylinder bolts broke off (the head broke off, the rest of the stud is seized in the body of the slave cylinder). Last night, I heli-coiled the stripped hole in the block and drilled the broken stud out of the starter. I was able to use a piece of 1/4-20 rod with a nut on each end to hold the starter together. I still have to figure out how to get the slave cylinder off of the broken stud to try to get the stud out. I'm planning on putting the engine and transmission in this weekend.

How is the slave cylinder coupled to the clutch fork? Once the trans is installed, will I be able to pull the clutch fork lever away from the slave cylinder with a ratchet strap in order to get to the slave cylinder? I can't get it off of the stud with the clutch fork attached.
God, you're giving me nightmares with that thread stripping talk.

The slave just has 2 bolts that go into the tranny in front of the clutch fork. Super easy to remove and install, and you won't need a ratchet strap even. However, I would definitely remove that broken stud before you install the trans... No reason to break your back in a tight space, when it's perfectly open outside the car right now.
Karanx7 is offline  
Old 03-09-2017, 11:20 AM
  #188  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by Karanx7 View Post
The slave just has 2 bolts that go into the tranny in front of the clutch fork. Super easy to remove and install, and you won't need a ratchet strap even. However, I would definitely remove that broken stud before you install the trans... No reason to break your back in a tight space, when it's perfectly open outside the car right now.
Yeah, one of those two bolts broke just below the surface of the slave cylinder. I can't get the actuator rod out of the clutch fork because I can't move the slave cylinder back, away from the clutch fork. I can't move the slave cylinder up, over the broken stud, because the actuator rod is engaged in the clutch fork.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-09-2017, 11:26 AM
  #189  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Here's why I had to heli-coil one of the holes in the block. This is what we deal with in Northern Illinois.


This one came out just below the starter.

Last edited by johnboy1313; 03-09-2017 at 11:39 AM.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-09-2017, 12:34 PM
  #190  
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Karanx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 28
Posts: 3,843
Thanked 449 Times in 368 Posts
Yea dude, I had the same shit happen to me the first time I split the tranny from the engine. I'm pretty sure that it was a virgin before I opened it, but I had like 3 come out like that (All were going into the tranny case though).

As for the slave, that's really strange. Your actuator rod might have rusted into the shift fork, because it should have some wiggle room. Try a reverse out drill bit to get the stud out, then just yank the slave out. If it's outside the car still, then you shouldn't have any problem extracting that stud.

Btw, use anti-sieze generously when putting those bolts back in. I also replaced all the bolts, which might be overkill. Stripped bolts are by far the only thing I hate about wrenching, just pure agony man.
Karanx7 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Karanx7 For This Useful Post:
johnboy1313 (03-09-2017)
Old 03-09-2017, 02:38 PM
  #191  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
This came outta my '01 Civic a couple weeks ago. I stripped it round, then had to dremel most of the way through it, then chisel it off.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-09-2017, 07:18 PM
  #192  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
I got that last broken bolt out of the slave cylinder. Didn't even ruin the threads in the tranny case. Thanks for the tips Karanx7.

What should I use to clean the bell housing? It's full of old clutch material.

Should I clean the sensor in the bellhousing while I can?

With no pressure against the throwout bearing, the clutch fork doesn't return. Is this normal?

Should I clean this sensor while I have easy access to it?




Last edited by johnboy1313; 03-09-2017 at 07:22 PM.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-09-2017, 08:56 PM
  #193  
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Karanx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 28
Posts: 3,843
Thanked 449 Times in 368 Posts
I cleaned the crap out of my bell housing insides, but they'll probably get dirty right away. It's normal for the fork to be loose like that. Just make sure you replace the throw out and flywheel bearing.

I wouldn't mess with that sensor. It's the crank sensor specific for true manuals (only the 2003 CL-S6 ever used it). Also make sure you get a clutch and flywheel that are specific for this sensor, or just reuse the old flywheel if it's in good shape.
Karanx7 is offline  
Old 03-09-2017, 09:35 PM
  #194  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
How do I know if the clutch and flywheel are correct for this sensor? I ordered from rockauto.com. Their website doesn't ask if it's a type s or not. From what I can tell the new flywheel looks identical to the old one. The old clutch was thrown away so I can't compare.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-10-2017, 04:38 AM
  #195  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 2,449
Thanked 451 Times in 388 Posts
Originally Posted by johnboy1313 View Post
How do I know if the clutch and flywheel are correct for this sensor? I ordered from rockauto.com. Their website doesn't ask if it's a type s or not. From what I can tell the new flywheel looks identical to the old one. The old clutch was thrown away so I can't compare.
If you ordered from rockauto specifically for an '03 Acura CL under the 'Transmission-Manual' product category than you should have been shown only the sensor compatable flywheel(s) and clutch/pressure plate kit(s) avialable for the car. It is pretty hard to order the incorrect parts.

The flywheel/clutch kit OEM equivalents without the Acura/Honda price markup are made by LUK:
LUK DMF063
More Information for LUK DMF063

LUK 08047
More Information for LUK 08047

Last edited by zeta; 03-10-2017 at 04:43 AM.
zeta is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to zeta For This Useful Post:
johnboy1313 (03-10-2017)
Old 03-10-2017, 05:53 AM
  #196  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
Rockauto didnt ask if it was the type S or base model. I got the LUK dmf063. It says it's for both vehicles.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-10-2017, 06:43 AM
  #197  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
I got the luk 08047 clutch kit.
johnboy1313 is offline  
Old 03-10-2017, 07:28 AM
  #198  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 2,449
Thanked 451 Times in 388 Posts
Originally Posted by johnboy1313 View Post
Rockauto didnt ask if it was the type S or base model. I got the LUK dmf063. It says it's for both vehicles.
You are correct, it does not delineate between the 'S and the Base CL; however, the 'S 6-speed was only made in '03 and the Base CL-P (Premium) never had a manual six speed trans. in any of the years it was made.

I had the same LUKdmf063 and LUK08047 clutch kit installed in Dec 2015; so you should be good to go.

Also, you should not have to worry about the crank sensor; unless, of course it looks like this one below.
It was destroyed when part of the OEM pressure plate fractured off, making its way to the crank trigger on a LW Aasco flywheel; thus, causing the crank trigger to 'knock the shit' out of it and anything else that was flying around within that cavity. You probably won't drive your Ody as hard as this guy does his CL-S6.

Originally Posted by 2ndgentl View Post



zeta is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to zeta For This Useful Post:
johnboy1313 (03-10-2017)
Old 03-10-2017, 08:18 AM
  #199  
Registered Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 242
Thanked 48 Times in 36 Posts
I saw that. My wife will be driving this one, so I can't really promise anything.
johnboy1313 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to johnboy1313 For This Useful Post:
zeta (03-10-2017)
Old 03-10-2017, 08:26 AM
  #200  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 2,449
Thanked 451 Times in 388 Posts
Originally Posted by johnboy1313 View Post
I saw that. My wife will be driving this one, so I can't really promise anything.
Nice. It's not very often to stumble upon a female who likes to row through the gears, sounds like a keeper.

Good luck with your project.
zeta is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to zeta For This Useful Post:
johnboy1313 (03-10-2017)

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.