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Nice. It's not very often to stumble upon a female who likes to row through the gears, sounds like a keeper.
Good luck with your project.
She's totally a keeper. I owned a '57 F100 when I met her. She saw my truck and told me about her dad's '55 F100. It had a 305 and a T5 out of a Camaro. Now he drives a '30 Chevy with a 327 and a four speed. He wouldn't let her get her license until she could drive a car with a manual trans with no worries. She's probably more excited about this shiftervan than I am. I've wanted a shiftervan since I was 18 and the butcher shop I worked for had a Ford Aerostar with a manual transmission.
Do I need to pack the throwout bearing with grease or is it sealed? Also, what's a good substitute for the Honda Hi-Temp Urea Grease? Can I just use brake caliper grease to grease the clutch release fork?
Last edited by johnboy1313; 03-10-2017 at 03:19 PM.
The engine and transmission are in. What a friggin fight that was. I'm 41 years old and up until last night I've never felt too old to do something. I feel like I was hit by a bus.
So I'm kinda stalled on the clutch master install. I want it to not look like it was installed by a monkey with a hatchet and a torch. While I was trying to sort things out, I got to thinking. In the CL, was the floor the clutch stop? With the pedal in a new vehicle, am I gonna potentially over throw my master or slave?
I think there might be a limit on the pedal pivot itself, kinda like the stop for when you let go...like a seesaw...
can't exactly recall but I agree...the wall isn't the stop there and I doubt the Honda engineers would allow the piston range to be the stop for the force of a man's leg too.
I'll check my TL tonight, but if I'm not mistaken, when the pedal wasn't connected to the CMC, it could touch the floor. I thought so anyway. I could be wrong, but in my mind, you wouldn't want to have to adjust both the pedal and the CMC. It's either one or the other, otherwise finding the sweet spot becomes all that much harder and you're not gaining anything by being able to adjust both.
I dunno. Like I said, I'll take a look and let you know. That's why I was confused when I saw your CMC extension. Normally, it would slip through the firewall until it was sitting flush to it, and then bolted in place. It's movement is then restricted to its movement length only. By adding that extension piece in, you complicate things. You don't even have to adjust the screw connector thingy to the pedal. It's set by Honda (even when I bought a new OEM one, it was already set. I had a cheap aftermarket one first (which ended up being broken anyway, grrr) but it could be adjusted, which was a pain. )
do do us a favour and post a pic of the firewall area on the driver's side. There's gotta be an easier solution.
I've got the service manuals for both vehicles and the electrical troubleshooting manuals for both as well.
Originally Posted by johnboy1313
While I was trying to sort things out, I got to thinking. In the CL, was the floor the clutch stop? With the pedal in a new vehicle, am I gonna potentially over throw my master or slave?
If you have the Helms, on page 12-4; Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch, and Clutch Interlock Switch Adjustment, there is a diagram depicting the clutch pedal and its relation to the firewall to illustrate the adjustment process. On the illustration, there is a 'stop' on the firewall that the clutch pedal comes in contact with when fully depressed. I went out and looked at said 'stop' in my CL-S6 and it is, in fact, made of metal and incorporated as part of the firewall. I pushed the clutch pedal in and it does contact this 'stop' as it (clutch pedal) bottoms out.
If I did not suck at the interwebs and had the equipment, I would post a scan for you.
do us a favour and post a pic of the firewall area on the driver's side. There's gotta be an easier solution.
TacoBello, check out the second to last picture in post #106. If you were to hang a plum bob from the left edge of the hole where the wire harness comes through the firewall, you'd just about be where the strut tower meets the firewall. Plus, it's just about all concave for the brake booster.
Last edited by johnboy1313; 03-14-2017 at 02:19 PM.
So here's a picture of where the clutch master is going to go. The extended actuator rod will be run through the strut tower, clear of the spring, and then covered with an access panel to protect it from the elements and anything that might be thrown up from the road. It's going to be bolted into the strut tower.
This is just a prototype that I made in my garage out of 16ga sheet and some small square tubing cut in half. The finished bracket will be a lot cleaner.
Not doubting you, but Honda's clearance in this area is suuper tight. I wouldn't want you to find out the spring is unavoidable.
I've got about an inch and a half to work with. It's gonna be tight but doable. If I have to, I will engineer a mechanical linkage on the engine side of the tower to work around the spring. I don't think I'll have to.
Last edited by johnboy1313; 03-20-2017 at 08:56 AM.
So it turns out I'm not going to be able to just graft the CL console into the Ody dash. The spare tire sits just behind, almost under, the front seats. In order to get the spare out, the front seats need to slide forward to access the wheel. If I mount the center console where it would need to be, it will cover part of the door to the spare. I'd have to either move the spare to the back and mess with it everytime the back seat folds down or pull the console to get to the spare. My wife is an artist that deals with reclaimed materials to make cabinets, tables, light fixtures, etc. I'm going to give her some measurements and have her make something to house the shifter. I am not artistic at all and anything I make will look like a pile. I'd rather get her involved than have her disappointed with the outcome. It definitely won't look like a factory install but it won't look like I built it either.
I'm actually really sad you didn't get a before and after 1/4 mile time for this thing. It might be slow regardless, but seeing the difference between auto and manual would've been cool
I've got a slight issue with the CAI tube and the clutch master cylinder just barely trying to occupy the same space. I can dimple the tube slightly for clearance or I can put the Odyssey intake spacer on and probably clear it. Have any of you done the Odyssey intake spacer? Is it a mess to do?
Swapping in new tie rod ends while I've got it apart. This one was a real bitch. I couldn't get it to turn. I had to cut through with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel to the threads. If you have a stubborn tie rod end and a steady hand, don't be afraid to cut into things.
Not a whole lot to report this morning. Got the IMRC box mounted today. Found a home for the ABS control box too. I had to move it to mount the clutch pedal assembly. Here's a pic of the IMRC box under the passenger's side of the dash. the heater hoses are plumbed too. I might have it running by next weekend.
Got the Odyssey spacer installed today. There really wasn't much to it. I got it at the local pick n pull for 13.50 out the door with a dipstick cause I misplaced mine. I still have to get new gaskets but the CAI clears now.
Couldn't get the clutch hydraulics bled. Bought a mityvac today. It still won't bleed. I think I've narrowed it down to the master cylinder. With the reservoir and the line to the slave disconnected I can't pull a vacuum through it. I'm going to see if I can open it and figure out what the problem is.
03-10-2017, 08:32 AM
