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I wanna stress how important it is to have the proper info when doing a swap like this. This morning I cut PCM connector E from the CLs harness and started crimping the adapter onto the end in order to connect it to the Ody's harness. The service manual I have shows pin E13 (FANC) as being blue with a red trace. It's not, it's green. I ran out and looked at the corresponding wire on the Ody's harness. It is blue/red. I looked at the Ody's service manual. It shows that wire to be labeled FANC, so that info jives but I was still worried. I didn't want to move forward until I had some kind of concrete evidence that I was doing things right. I pulled the CLs Electrical Troubleshooting Manual out and looked up the fan controller schematic for the manual transmission. Turns out it's green for the M/T and blue/red for the A/T. I'm using the Acura's radiator and fans so I will be able to finish the wiring on both ends. This isn't like my old 57 F100. One crossed wire could set me WAY back if I were to accidentally fry the PCM. Don't guess at this stuff guys. Get the manuals. I paid $15 for the Ody's service manual on Craigslist, downloaded the Ody's Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for free on Odyclub.com, got the CLs service manual for $22 online, and the CLs Electrical Troubleshooting manual for $15 on eBay. I couldn't have done this without this info.
That said, let me know if you need any schematics or anything out of these manuals. I'm happy to post pics.
Good catch! And one of the reasons that many people are unwilling to perform such a procedure on their own. You really need to understand the bigger picture, even when working at this level.
One more thing. On the 2000 Odyssey, the electrical Troubleshooting Manual showed pin A1 as SHO2S. Turns out it's actually A23. There is no A1 on the 2000 Ody.
man, I would never even hesitate to do a swap like this... until it came to the electrical. That stuff is like trying to comprehend an alien language to me.
But then again, I still have problems setting the clock on my VCR, so you know...
The master cylinder is going to be a good distance away from the pedal. I had to add some to the clutch rod. This a piece of tubing with a nut welded in each end.
Whoa... Why aren't you bolting it to the firewall? There's a lot of force put on the CMC, with the clutch pedal. You want zero movement whatsoever when it comes to the CMC... I'm curious to see what you have planned for it. Seems like you're creating a lot of extra work for it. I'm not sure what the odyssey engine bay looks like, but for the TL, RSX, etc, the CMC gets tucked between the driver's side strut tower and firewall... It's a pain in the ass to install in there!
Cause there's a strut tower in the way. There is no space between the strut tower and the firewall. The back of the strut tower is the firewall.
Yea, the TL and CL have a very tight fit for the clutch master cylinder, but it looks like the Odyssey has actually no space there. Gotta do what you have to.
Not a whole lot to report this morning. When I was stripping the Acura, one of the bell-housing bolts pulled all of the threads out, the starter bolt that the ground strap runs to broke off, and one of the slave cylinder bolts broke off (the head broke off, the rest of the stud is seized in the body of the slave cylinder). Last night, I heli-coiled the stripped hole in the block and drilled the broken stud out of the starter. I was able to use a piece of 1/4-20 rod with a nut on each end to hold the starter together. I still have to figure out how to get the slave cylinder off of the broken stud to try to get the stud out. I'm planning on putting the engine and transmission in this weekend.
How is the slave cylinder coupled to the clutch fork? Once the trans is installed, will I be able to pull the clutch fork lever away from the slave cylinder with a ratchet strap in order to get to the slave cylinder? I can't get it off of the stud with the clutch fork attached.
Not a whole lot to report this morning. When I was stripping the Acura, one of the bell-housing bolts pulled all of the threads out, the starter bolt that the ground strap runs to broke off, and one of the slave cylinder bolts broke off (the head broke off, the rest of the stud is seized in the body of the slave cylinder). Last night, I heli-coiled the stripped hole in the block and drilled the broken stud out of the starter. I was able to use a piece of 1/4-20 rod with a nut on each end to hold the starter together. I still have to figure out how to get the slave cylinder off of the broken stud to try to get the stud out. I'm planning on putting the engine and transmission in this weekend.
How is the slave cylinder coupled to the clutch fork? Once the trans is installed, will I be able to pull the clutch fork lever away from the slave cylinder with a ratchet strap in order to get to the slave cylinder? I can't get it off of the stud with the clutch fork attached.
God, you're giving me nightmares with that thread stripping talk.
The slave just has 2 bolts that go into the tranny in front of the clutch fork. Super easy to remove and install, and you won't need a ratchet strap even. However, I would definitely remove that broken stud before you install the trans... No reason to break your back in a tight space, when it's perfectly open outside the car right now.
The slave just has 2 bolts that go into the tranny in front of the clutch fork. Super easy to remove and install, and you won't need a ratchet strap even. However, I would definitely remove that broken stud before you install the trans... No reason to break your back in a tight space, when it's perfectly open outside the car right now.
Yeah, one of those two bolts broke just below the surface of the slave cylinder. I can't get the actuator rod out of the clutch fork because I can't move the slave cylinder back, away from the clutch fork. I can't move the slave cylinder up, over the broken stud, because the actuator rod is engaged in the clutch fork.
Yea dude, I had the same shit happen to me the first time I split the tranny from the engine. I'm pretty sure that it was a virgin before I opened it, but I had like 3 come out like that (All were going into the tranny case though).
As for the slave, that's really strange. Your actuator rod might have rusted into the shift fork, because it should have some wiggle room. Try a reverse out drill bit to get the stud out, then just yank the slave out. If it's outside the car still, then you shouldn't have any problem extracting that stud.
Btw, use anti-sieze generously when putting those bolts back in. I also replaced all the bolts, which might be overkill. Stripped bolts are by far the only thing I hate about wrenching, just pure agony man.
I cleaned the crap out of my bell housing insides, but they'll probably get dirty right away. It's normal for the fork to be loose like that. Just make sure you replace the throw out and flywheel bearing.
I wouldn't mess with that sensor. It's the crank sensor specific for true manuals (only the 2003 CL-S6 ever used it). Also make sure you get a clutch and flywheel that are specific for this sensor, or just reuse the old flywheel if it's in good shape.
How do I know if the clutch and flywheel are correct for this sensor? I ordered from rockauto.com. Their website doesn't ask if it's a type s or not. From what I can tell the new flywheel looks identical to the old one. The old clutch was thrown away so I can't compare.
How do I know if the clutch and flywheel are correct for this sensor? I ordered from rockauto.com. Their website doesn't ask if it's a type s or not. From what I can tell the new flywheel looks identical to the old one. The old clutch was thrown away so I can't compare.
If you ordered from rockauto specifically for an '03 Acura CL under the 'Transmission-Manual' product category than you should have been shown only the sensor compatable flywheel(s) and clutch/pressure plate kit(s) avialable for the car. It is pretty hard to order the incorrect parts.
The flywheel/clutch kit OEM equivalents without the Acura/Honda price markup are made by LUK:
LUK DMF063 More Information for LUK DMF063
Rockauto didnt ask if it was the type S or base model. I got the LUK dmf063. It says it's for both vehicles.
You are correct, it does not delineate between the 'S and the Base CL; however, the 'S 6-speed was only made in '03 and the Base CL-P (Premium) never had a manual six speed trans. in any of the years it was made.
I had the same LUKdmf063 and LUK08047 clutch kit installed in Dec 2015; so you should be good to go.
Also, you should not have to worry about the crank sensor; unless, of course it looks like this one below.
It was destroyed when part of the OEM pressure plate fractured off, making its way to the crank trigger on a LW Aasco flywheel; thus, causing the crank trigger to 'knock the shit' out of it and anything else that was flying around within that cavity. You probably won't drive your Ody as hard as this guy does his CL-S6. :wink:
02-26-2017, 10:49 AM
