brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I will look them over closer and take some measurements today. After looking at the diagrams, I think we would need to use the tsx hub and maybe the tsx's smaller and lighter rotors. It does not look like CL hub will transfer over.

When researching these knuckles I also found out that the RL uses aluminum rear brake calipers. That could be another weight saver possibly.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

The trick would be if the TSX wheel sensors could be used with our electrical system, if need be re-pin the CL plug to the TSX sensor. Hope this pans out, PROPS Brian!!

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Hopefully they use the same sensor and connectors.

So I need to check and see if they even bolt up to our suspension. Then what suspension arms to use(cl or tsx) and if geometry is correct and they can be aligned properly.

Think I could use the tsx end link bracket for swaybar.

It should help that most of my parts are adjustable.

Not sure about retaining parking brake. Does tsx hub have what is needed or would I have to lose parking brake?

Then whether to run cl or tsx Brake components.

Maybe I can just delete handbrake and add a hydraulic handbrake like the focus st's had at the ford racing school. Can pull off some slick maneuvers with it and get good rear rotation for autocross hehe.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

New XLR8 Mount Insert Option.

Marcus claims less chance of donuting than original mount inserts. Hope he gets enough interest to make 85 or 95 durometer.

https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...mounts-926112/

https://www.heeltoeauto.com/engine/f...ing.xlr8..html

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Looked at the knuckles closer, took some measurements and a few more pics.

First issue I noticed is the gap where the strut lower bushings mount is different. The gap for TSX is 45 MM. The gap for the TL is 50 MM.

TSX


TL


The gap between these mounting points is also different.

TSX


TL


Here is where the Parking Brake Line mounts on TL.


Is this where the wheel sensor mounts?

TSX


TL


Maybe I should just have a custom set of rear knuckles made from solid blocks of billet aluminum. Wonder what that would cost.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

First day in 2 months it has been above freezing where I live.

Maybe I can paint roll bar and rear seat area in a few weeks.

I know this is old news by now, but just in case someone didn't see the 2015 Civic Type R did a 7:50.63 lap around the Nurburgring. For comparison, a NSX-R did a time of 7:56.33.


That is pretty impressive. Finally some performance oriented fwd production cars. I know it has a roll cage and removed a/c. I think production version will be closer to NSX-R time even though Honda says it will do same time.


Tried fitting Sub Strap, but the seat is so close to the ground that the buckles stick up into seat area. I think that is a no-no for safety and also so it doesn't damage cushions. Will have to remove the buckles, cut slots in that bar under the seat and use 2" 2-bar slides to hold it. I see no other option.


Covered my floor board with skateboard grip tape because my shoe just slid without it. The problem is the grip tape is wearing down the heel of my shoes.

Wanted to find something rubber to use. Went to Menards and saw these recycled rubber floor tiles. Cut out a section and used permanent carpet tape to glue it down. It will definitely function, whether it looks good or not.





Removed a little extra metal from dash area. .21 lbs worth.


When I had my car weighed a few items were removed from the car(side mirrors, harnesses, fire extinguisher). Here is a more updated weight list.

Starting Weight 2823

Side Mirrors +1.58 lbs
Fire Extinguisher +3.8 lbs
Harnesses +6.2 lbs
2 Bar Harness Slides +.36 lbs
Rear Seat Brackets -3.2 lbs
Dash Metal -.21 lbs
Pass Seat Titanium Hardware -.09 lbs

Final Weight 2831 lbs

That is with between 1/2 to 3/4 tank of gas.

ahxChun

iTrader: (1)

is there a target weight that you are trying to achieve?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

My original target few years ago was just sub 3k.
No real target now. Not building the car for a specific race class as of now. Just building the car how I want to build it.

If I was to set a target for future, it would be 2700 for street driven vehicle and 2500 for track only. Being street driven is what makes it hard to remove that last few hundred pounds

I like that it hasn't really lost its daily driver ability, except some ground clearance which I plan to fix in future. I like being able to drive on streets for fun, pick up groceries or parts, drive to and at events, drive 8 hours to National Meet with a/c, etc.

Will be adding weight with aero and a few other add-ons so getting to 2700 will be difficult.

I am actually happy with the weight as is and try to convince myself to stop already, but it is too much fun.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Was thinking that I removed the wiring and connector to run IMRC. I am happy to report that I left that wiring on the dash harness.

With my current IM, I can't run the IMRC because the port is welded closed.

My thinking is to intall the 3.7 IM with the IMRC. That setup should have more low end torque which can be better for daily driving and autocross. Then modify my current IM to be more of a high rpm track IM.

Not sure about constantly switching IM's though.


Have had a slight rattle from inside my driver door for a few years. Never figured out what was causing the rattle. My driver door was impacted in a parking lot back in 2005 by a woman on a cell phone driving a minivan who hit gas pedal instead of brake and jumped over a 1 foot tall curbed median right into my driver wheel/door. Door has never been the same since. Still pisses me off.

Knowing me, I couldn't just fix the rattle without removing some weight also.

Removed the rear window channel from driver door. Noticed the rubber piece was not fully seated in the slot that it is supposed to go in. Part of it was in the wrong smaller slot. Fixed that.


There was quite a bit of play in this rod connection. The passenger side had no play. Ordered a new plastic bushing and installed it. Now there is no play. Circled where the bushing is, but you can't see it.


Here you can see the back of the door handle without that heavy metal handle protector installed. handle works perfectly fine without it.


Thought might as well remove this lock rod and the plastic rod protector. No point keeping it there.


Removed Items. Weight is .36 lbs.


Replaced some hardware with stainless.

Removed Hardware.


Replaced Hardware. Weight savings of .04 lbs.


Cleaned Up Panel

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

When I posted the updated weight, a few items were forgotten.


Starting Weight 2823

Side Mirrors +1.58 lbs
Fire Extinguisher +3.8 lbs
Harnesses +6.2 lbs
2 Bar Harness Slides +.36 lbs
Rear Seat Brackets -3.2 lbs
Dash Metal -.21 lbs
Pass Seat Titanium Hardware -.09 lbs
2 Exhaust Hangers -.58 lbs
2 Rubber Exhaust Hangers -.24 lbs
Door Rods & Protectors -.36 lbs
Door Hardware -.04 lbs
Rubber Floor Board Piece +.4 lbs

Final weight is still 2831 lbs

That is with between 1/2 to 3/4 tank of gas.

cl82793

brian,


still want those parts, rear net and the speaker covers.


tried that number no answer.call me at 630-458-4615
thanks.(ED)


do u still use your fog inserts? if not i'll take thos too.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

It would be easier if you just text me. My inserts are still on car.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

After breaking new clutch in and pushing it harder, I can tell that the old clutch was slipping before when autocrossing. It is noticeable when I do 2nd gear pulls which is what autocross is really.

I think new clutch, roll bar added stiffness, and the corner balance should help significantly this year. I think each will make it .1-.2 seconds faster hopefully. I am hoping for some podium finishes in my class.

Think my mind is made up on wheels. I will run the 18x8.5 +42 in the rear and use 245 tires next set.

For the front I think 18x9 +35 is the best choice. It gives me enough inner clearance to run 265 or 275 tires. Wheel will extend 23 MM more than current wheels. Think I have 10 MM of free space left, but will need to modify fender for last 13 MM.

Do you think I can achieve this with just a front fender pull? If not then I am thinking of buying some used 3rd Gen tl fenders, cutting bigger flare section out and welding it to cl fender. Hopefully I can do it without having to modify bumper.

This is where stance guys can actually help me out.

ahxChun

iTrader: (1)

i probably missed it, but what clutch do you have again? the LUK right? or did you replace it after that one.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Just replaced clutch for the first time in this cars life over the winter with new oem at 130k miles.

I know this will last me 100 k and be reliable, plus I don't really need extra clamping at my power levels.

Maybe aftermarket next time, but hopefully not for awhile.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

My exhaust ground clearance has been bugging me. I actually measured the lowest point today, the rear of the resonator. It is only 2.45" off the ground. Can't believe I have driven 700 miles since exhaust install and have not scraped it yet.

Not sure how the shop could possibly build it like that. Didn't notice till I got it home since shop had it on lift for me to look at. Won't be very drive-able anywhere with that clearance. Could try and adjust the resonator up slightly but that would still only give 3" ground clearance max. What would you guys consider adequate 4"?



Thinking of replacing the monster 30" long 6" wide resonator with 1 or 2 14" long 4" wide resonators.



When the roll bar was welded in, the heat from the welding made the rubberized undercoating underneath start peeling off. I cleaned off the welded area underneath car on 2 front mount points. Primed it and sprayed more rubberized undercoating on. Still need to do the 2 mounting points in rear fenderwell area.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Mine is a 4" round but I'm not as low as you. Once the car is on the road (April) I can snap a pic if you want. But the sound for me is a little much.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I am happy with sound of mine, just not ground clearance. Mine is very quiet when just cruising, buy can be loud when you get on it. I'm assuming you have atleast 4" ground clearance?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure I do. I'll measure when I can.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Well thanks for posting, doesn't happen often.

boostedorbusted

iTrader: (3)

thats crazy 2 1/2 inchs of ground clearance. i enjoy reading this build the time and effort you put into this project inspires me. keep up the great work.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I creep a lot. I like to read this thread but honestly I have little I can contribute. Plus I have very little time I can give to my car. 2 kids, one more coming in July and a big reno planned for the house, work
I'd say most people don't have the time to put into their car like you do.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Installed Borla exhaust on my Focus. Made up my mind after focus I drove on track had borla.

I really like the sound borla mufflers make. Prefer it over the sound of magnaflow.

Thinking of using Borla Mufflers when I redo exhaust.

The only option for resonator from Borla would be Borla #40085, a round 15" long and 5" wide Sportsman muffler. Could possibly gain 1" to 1.5" more ground clearance, for a total of 3.5" to 4" clearance. If that isn't enough clearance will have to go with a 4" wide from another manufacturer.



For the muffler I would go with Borla #40575, an oval 16" x 4.25" x 7.88" MultiCore muffler.



Track day is coming up fast.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Really like having real gauges. Need to get oil pressure and temp still.

My volt gauge was constantly reading 14v, but last few times driving it I noticed it was jumping from 14v to 12v sometimes while driving but staying at 14v when idling. Was thinking it could be battery or underdrive pulley. Keep my battery on trickle charger so it is always fully charged.

Also noticed when driving my coolant temps were 160-170 which is normal, but it went up to 185 when idling waiting for a train. Thought this was odd.

Noticed it felt like the radiator hoses had air in them.

Did the coolant burp/bleed or whatever you call it.

Removed radiator cap and started the car. Kept an eye on temps. Used a towel around radiator to catch overflow. Let the car warm up for about 15 minutes. Would squeeze hoses in certain spots to try and remove air bubbles. Also would top off with Redline Water Wetter and coolant. After 15 minutes I ran heater on full for another 10 minutes. After done just replaced rad cap.

While doing this noticed my radiator fan was not coming on, but the a/c fan was. Hmm odd. Found the fan connector unplugged.

So shop left cooling system full of air and fan unplugged.

Took it for a drive. When driving it was 160-170 like before. When idling it never went above 170.

When driving this time the volt gauge stayed at 14v whole time. Tested it idling with heat on full blast and it would jump slightly from like 13.8 to 14.

This new clutch is great. Was spinning my big, sticky tires in 2nd gear at 3-4k rpm. Actually think if it had more power it would make it harder to drive at autocross. It is almost a perfect blend of traction and power. Just need stickier tires for more power, but then you have axles etc. to worry about.

Bought some spare valve covers for really cheap to eventually powdercoat. Noticed some differences in the casting marks on these 2 rear covers.



Replaced the fender bolts(6) with stainless bolts and Downstar Alumminum Beauty Washers. That saved 10g of weight.

Removed a bracket for battery cable that I don't need. That saved 30g.

Removed the cable bracket from the starter motor. 14g saved.

Removed the Windshield Washer Nozzles and Brackets from Hood. 26g saved.

Total savings of a whopping .18 lbs.

What was removed.


Fender Hardware.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Since the summer of 2008, my ScanGaugeII displays the same kind of 'jumping around' from a high of 14v to a low of 12.3v when driving around as well. I always took note of it when driving the daily grind; however, the car has not had any altenator issues though.

I installed a new DieHard 51R battery about 18 months ago that just died one day in my garage, to this day I still witness the same 'jumping around' and it starts strong everyday.

My coolant temps are pretty much the same. Even with the tropical heat of FL and the SC'er simmering under the hood during the daily commute, cruising (65-80mph) temps. are at around 170. Then they jump to 186 when sitting in traffic, at that time I can usually tell when the cooling fan bumps on and it drops to around 170ish again.
I'm using the same 'water wetter' and Mugen cooling mods since the SC'er install back in 2005 with no air in the system. I've been running the CT HBP from the get go and have had no issues as of yet. I have personally found that the key to it all is just don't beat the f*ck out of it from stop light to stop light. Will probably get the blower rebuilt at around 120K if it does not start making 'sounds' before then, 100K on it currently. hehe.

LOL, don't ask about intake air temps.
The highest I've witnessed on the ScanGuage in the 'FIRE' of a FL commute was 195-8 while sitting in 'stop&go' traffic. Though, after I get going, with a smooth easy pull-out, the IAT drops pretty quickly. Gonna have this thing until the wheels fall off, lol.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

What does your intake temp reach in boost zeta?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

That's a good question. This my sound weak; however, I TRY mainly to reserve boost for on-ramps and at cruising speeds. This goes toward the philosophy stated above as to NOT '...beating the f*ck out of it from stop light to stop light.

The ScanGuageII I utilize is located in the middle on the plastic steering column cover in front of the speedo, so it's difficult to observe at such a time. Although, I would venture to comment that it is running hot, just because of the environment I am in. I run the FPR a little richer (38-42psi), with 93 octane gas and don't hear knock, although, I'm sure it's probably there, oh well. I have not changed it in 10yrs, so it's working for me with just the ESM preset to 2.9v, so far. IF it blows, in goes a J35A3, no biggie.

I find, with the CT HBP, NORMAL 'rowing through the gears' (1st -3rd) acceleration from a stop adequate enough to get me up and going just fine, even with high heat soak after prolonged stop and go driving.

gnuts, you should give that CT HBP you have a try just for giggles, I thought I read that you have one, maybe not? Anyway, with the much cooler environment in which you live, the least of your concerns should be heat. You don't seem to be one that 'beats the hell out of your car' either; therefore, the next time you can get at that alternator, pop on that HBP and enjoy.

Sorry for the threadjack brian,

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

No worries about thread jacking, post as you like.

Not sure why voltage jumped. It is annoying with the gauge right in front of me. Everytime it jumps my eyes are drawn to it.

I beat the hell out of my car when driving it. Constantly revving to Redline everytime I drive it. That is why I love honda/acura. So reliable and gives me confidence to push hard. Let's just say I don't get that confidence with my Ford. Seem to be always worried to push it too hard.

One weakness I noticed when pushing too hard was power steering fluid overheating. Want to run power steering cooler and oil cooler.

Never monitored my IAT temps, probably should. Still need to relocate sensor to the intake.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^When King opened up your 6-speed transmission last year, did they mention anything in regards to the condition of your differential carrier bearings in relation to the miles on the tranny?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

No they did not mention that. They said they looked it over and found issue with 2nd gear so replaced the whole gear. Would hope they inspected everything, but I was not there watching.

Need to ask them a few things, so I could mention it.

I think my car was the first car King ever changed a J series clutch on. When I gave them the replacement LUK clutch, PP, and flywheel, Scott did not believe it was a oem acura clutch. He said no other honda clutch looks like this.

He also mentioned them buying tool just for installing my clutch.

I told him it is stock. I said my car is still on original clutch so when you remove it you can see if it matches. Never heard about it again. They did show me the clutch they removed and it was really worn down. Good thing I replaced it before getting stranded.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I have a shaft HBP, so it would be easy to put on. I use 94 oct gas too. I'd have to adjust the fuel but I don't have a gauge. Is the Esm normally set to 2.9?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Ahhh OK. I misunderstood. For giggles, How many psi is it rated to provide?


Per the ct-engineering SC'er checklist for the 6-speed the esm is preset to 2.9v. Upper right hand side, nineth line item on the link below:

http://www.ct-engineering.com/Portal...0Checklist.pdf

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

It's supposed to give 6 psi. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the regulator? Need to get one.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. Did you notice an issue with 2nd gear leading up to the look over they performed? I mean, I've grinded 2nd, 3rd and 4th on a blue moon during a misshift; however, to this day I do not have any difficulty/feedback while engaging those gears that would indicate potential problems.

Yeah, it would be interesting as well. IIRC'ly you had like 130K on the tranny before bringing it to King or something like that. Anyway, the reason I ask is because NVA-AV6 stressed that the differential carrier bearings in the manual tranny's that he serviced almost always had questionable wear at teardown. Post #9 in the thread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...l-pros-761266/

I was just wondering at the mileage interval yours was at when King evaluated it if they found any wear, especially if there was over 100K miles, and mentioned it to you.

I will be replacing all this in the future as well.

I wonder if it was this one 07AAE-P8EA000? Post #9 in the tread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...t-tool-799072/

I have about 87K on my second clutch now; however, I know the flywheel needs replacing since I did not do it the first time around and now has about 148K on it.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

That's all I can get out of mine. I purchased the alternator HBP from CT when I bought the SC'er kit at the end of 2004; however, they would only sell it as a totally separate transaction because it was considered for 'off road use only', lol. Never even used the 3.5 pulley that came with the kit.

No, I bought a two gauge A-pillar pod and had a fuel pressure and boost gauge installed when the unit went in all at once. They were AutoMeter Phantom series, or something like that.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Never miss-shifted in my car. Never grinded 3rd or 4th.

If I drove my car like a normal person I would never notice the transmission issue or grind 2nd gear.

Some years ago, before I removed check valve from slave cylinder, I was practicing launching car and shifting 1-2. It was stupid thing to do. It grinded going into 2nd. Ever since then I get a grind every so often shifting 1-2 at high rpm. When I autocrossed it would grind once out of around 10 runs.

All Scott told me was that they would inspect the transmission and replace what needed replacing. He only mentioned installing a new 2nd gear. I emailed him, but have not heard back. Will need to call when I find time.

Scott only told me they had to buy a tool specifically to install my clutch. That is all I know atm.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Started prepping for Painting rear seat area and Roll Bar. This is going to take a lot of time and be a huge pain.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure the diff. carrier bearings are fine otherwise King would have mentioned it.

I just remembered that info. from NVA-AV6 and thought I would inquire. Also, back in the day, I believe it was these bearings that compelled civicdrvr to switch his tranny to an equivalent manual TL unit via NVA-AV6's shop. In addition, I remember StreetKA also dealt with these bearings when he did his tranny as well.

Since opening up the tranny is a BIG deal, with all of the work associated with the removal/inspection/installation processes it does not happen here very often, like in your case, where it can be mulled & discussed.

So tell us brian, hehe, are you going to spring for that Dezod standalone?
I must admit, it looks reeeeeally tempting, LOL.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Yea I am thinking of buying Dezod kit and having King tune it. Don't think it would happen till winter though.

Gonna be spending so much money on events. Then tires, Brake pads, fluids, hotels, etc.

Still need to buy 2 more Volk wheels, PS & Oil coolers, Oil gauges, and work on aero. Just wing alone will be almost 2 grand.

I'm in it for the long haul. This build has many more years till completion and probably 50 grand more to spend. The build will be complete when I have the fastest fwd track car in the world, maybe.

Then I have the focus to worry about. Need to buy extra set of tpms for my wheels, etc.

On a side note, prepping an interior to paint a roll bar might be more annoying than removing sound deadening. Feels like I'm crawling through tunnels with a mask on unable to breathe.

Scottyknows007