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First day Had to remove dash to put in clutch pedal Day 2 New front end hood bumper black headlights The day i bought the car blown auto tranny 233k miles faded paint no spoiler Got it back from paint shop had auto ecu with torque converter code and check engine light only went to 4800 rpm had to put 440 ohm resistor on map sensor signal wire to trick voltage so ecu would pass 2k rpm
ran rich but good Finally got 3780 pge a11 ecu and wiring harness There was a motorcycle accident in front of me on the 5 fwy since i ride and have been in an accident i stopped to help the biker he was fuked up While my car sat in shoulder as i helped him a tow truck going the other way lost his fkn tire jumped the center divider and hit my car at like 65 mph luckily thats all the damage but i was pissed chp even said no good deed goes unpunished right i was like fu lol Tow truck had progressive and they gave me a check from an estimate of 2900 so i bought a door for 365 a fender for 65 and A nice set of 18" helos satin black with some 225 45 18 zr tires And got it repainted satin black!!!! I felt better Now i am back here trying to figure out this damn ckp sensor issue and pissed off again but im sure the next pic will have a huge fuckin smiley face when im done! What do you guys think so far
Ive been doing honda 4 bangers for a while this is my first v6 got the car for a steal and thought it would be fun lol ive spent like 12k on this fkn one i just wish you could chip the ecus on these that aem ecu is fuking expensive and some people say it sucks i always chipped the ecus and used crome to map em my favorite still so far is a 91 accord ex 2 door with a Japanese f22b twin cam non vtec with i think it was a p32 chipped crome tuned stage 3 cams cam gears hdr intk exh valves spings milled head port and polish nothing on the bottom end all stock , stage 2 clutch lsd 5spd msd ignition and coil god what else anyway it would hit 183 top end and got there from 70mph fkn quick but ya this is just a problem i have never seen and im like what so ya now I gotta figure it out and i noticed while doing this research that alot of people are into these j swaps i just wanted to make it manual transmission but i found the j32 on ebay for 900 then i know the cl tl accord rl and others all the 6 spds from certain years all have the same bolt pattern and i knew the cl s auto and mt had different setup and different ecus from working on them so at work i ordered all the parts per application cls 6mt sport navigation engine harness crank pulley cam pulley ckp sensor tdc sensors etc wow i went on for a long time my bad so ya i found this post and bam here we are so thanks guys for your help i appreciate it never done this before seems cool and if you got any questions let me know Thanks
12K is a lot of money to invest into a car that can easily be totaled (hopefully not by another tow truck)...My hats off to you.
Since you've spent this much on it already, why not get the correct bell housing for the CKP sensor? I'm wondering if the exact placement of the sensor relative to the fly wheel (which I am assuming it is pulsing off of) needs to be positioned such the the pulses from the B sensor must be in sync or offset with that of the A sensor on the timing belt end. in other words, unless the sensor is dead on, it may pulse too soon or too late and will throw the CEL code again.
Lol not the first to mention that i have thought it over and over just not sure what to do dont think i will like it same color as car i think it will make the paint job look cheap would have to be creative and nothing has come to mind yet i can worry about those details after the important shit is done say im gonna try drilling and seeing what i can do so if it works others will know how and know it works if not i will get the case for 200 and swap it out and ya but ive spent 9k on the car not just the swap i got the motor for 900 tranny shifter cables clutch pedal ecu master cylinder lines all of it for 1500 the cls ecu for 250 clutch for 250 auto conv parts for 350 type s cams 250 regrinds from crower 600 thats 3100 add 200 for misc shit thats 3300 not too bad 1/3 of 9k
And got it repainted satin black!!!! I felt better Now i am back here trying to figure out this damn ckp sensor issue and pissed off again but im sure the next pic will have a huge fuckin smiley face when im done! What do you guys think so far
Originally Posted by Charlie Mariner
say im gonna try drilling and seeing what i can do so if it works others will know how and know it works if not i will get the case for 200 and swap it out
That's a nice looking Accord there. One can see all the excellent hard work you put into it to get it this far. It will be a blast to drive once you get the CKP-B issue resolved.
That's a nice looking Accord there. One can see all the excellent hard work you put into it to get it this far. It will be a blast to drive once you get the CKP-B issue resolved.
I agree! the matte black really brings out the lines.
12K is a lot of money to invest into a car that can easily be totaled (hopefully not by another tow truck)...My hats off to you.
Since you've spent this much on it already, why not get the correct bell housing for the CKP sensor? I'm wondering if the exact placement of the sensor relative to the fly wheel (which I am assuming it is pulsing off of) needs to be positioned such the the pulses from the B sensor must be in sync or offset with that of the A sensor on the timing belt end. in other words, unless the sensor is dead on, it may pulse too soon or too late and will throw the CEL code again.
thoughts anyone?
Any plans for work on the chrome window trim?
The two pictures below pretty much confirm / summate your 'positioning logic' above. Especially the second one that shows the 'side view' of the sensor relative to the clutch case. It looks like the individual below had the same CKP-B dilemma, as Charlie Mariner.
Originally Posted by poormansr
ive been collecting pictures of the metal sleeve ** to make my own **
gettin pictures of the crank sensor.. comparing them to other honda crank sensors..
getting pictures of the Location of where the hole is on the cls6 manual transmission.. so future accord 6spd and acura TL/TLS owners can drive into there bell housings.. if using a cls6 manual Ecu..
I generally don't come into the model specific subforums, but when one gets a PM from @zeta , one must respond
I had TL 6mt swapped into my CL-S6 when the diff bearings went bad. There are two ways to go about this:
1) swap the bellhousing (pain in the ass)
2) make a jig from the original bell housing and drill and tap the new one in the correct location (less pain in the ass)
The jig was pretty simple, just use the mounting holes (from trans to engine) as references and measure from there, then you can transfer it to the new bell housing. Make sure the crank sensor is installed at the correct depth though - too far and it won't read properly, too close and it'll foul on the flywheel.
I guess there's a third way - run a stand alone ECU. I wish I had some pics from mine, but I can't seem to find them. Good luck
And thanks for the compliments on the car i agree that color makes it pop when i asked them to paint it that color i was soo nervous on how it would look but obviously when i went to pick it up i was definitely impressed
This is the 7th gen accord flywheel crankshaft sensor b won't be able to read with this 1 If your running the cl 6mt ecu youll need this flywheel big difference
The two pictures below pretty much confirm / summate your 'positioning logic' above. Especially the second one that shows the 'side view' of the sensor relative to the clutch case. It looks like the individual below had the same CKP-B dilemma, as Charlie Mariner.
^
I received mine from the factory when I purchased the car new 17 years ago.
Don't want to sound like a 'dick'; however, I just can't fathom how you guys, doing swaps, overlook this one CKP-B 'hang-up' unique to running the CL-S6 ECU? Especially, when it's plastered all over this forum, from the past, from individuals who have already successfully performed this swap??
The only options have been pointed out in post #55.
Bump one of 'Charlie Mariner's' comments in this thread to seek a potential update. He's the one who indicated that he was going to try and 'drill-out' the TL-6 clutch case 'boss' for the CKP-B, to get his project on the road. Hopefully he will respond, I'd like to know as well.
@Brandon MuzikMakin Small You might have missed it, but Charlie Mariner ended up buying the housing for a CL-S trans...It looks like Zeta posted in thread 54 a user who attempted to create a hole for the sensor. That post is here:
Thanks greatly appreciate this is my first swap when I started the only info I could find on it led to some magical box that doesn't exist anymore. Then I found a cl type s brain and nervous system and decided to take that route
It looks like you're still running the stock exhaust manifolds. Those rob quite a bit of power. You need to let it breath to really pick up some speed.
^^
Hey Brandon MuzikMakin Small, Thanks for coming back with the update.
So you ended up purchasing a CL-S6 clutch case and CKP-B sensor from the dealer and swapping it out on the TL-6 tranny?
Just curious, because people are coming to this forum saying that the CKP-B sensor is 'discontinued' and no longer available under this part # 37506-PGE-
A12.
What's your story on how you found your clutch case and sensor?
^^
Hey Brandon MuzikMakin Small, Thanks for coming back with the update.
So you ended up purchasing a CL-S6 clutch case and CKP-B sensor from the dealer and swapping it out on the TL-6 tranny?
Just curious, because people are coming to this forum saying that the CKP-B sensor is 'discontinued' and no longer available under this part # 37506-PGE-
A12.
What's your story on how you found your clutch case and sensor?
I found mine on Ebay a guy was selling the cl types bellhousing with sensor and sleeve as a part of the deal. After looking at both bell housings I noticed if I did try and drill a hole in the accord bellhousing it wouldn't work because the sleeve holds the sensor at an angle and without the sleeve it will lay flush and contact the flywheel
Last edited by Brandon MuzikMakin Small; 08-09-2019 at 06:12 PM.
It looks like you're still running the stock exhaust manifolds. Those rob quite a bit of power. You need to let it breath to really pick up some speed.
Planned on swapping the exhaust after I'm 100% sure the drivetrains is solid I'm also curious on tuning running the 3.2 pcm with a 3.5 engine my air fuel ratio probably way off
I found mine on Ebay a guy was selling the cl types bellhousing with sensor and sleeve as a part of the deal. After looking at both bell housings I noticed if I did try and drill a hole in the accord bellhousing it wouldn't work because the sleeve holds the sensor at an angle and without the sleeve it will lay flush and contact the flywheel
Nice! Thanks for the update. That's great first-hand information to know and make this thread even better.
LOL, now if only ole Charlie Mariner will come back and let us know what he did to fix his CKP-B problem.
Originally Posted by Brandon MuzikMakin Small
Planned on swapping the exhaust after I'm 100% sure the drivetrains is solid I'm also curious on tuning running the 3.2 pcm with a 3.5 engine my air fuel ratio probably way off
Just an FYI. All the others who have swapped a J35A3 into either a 2G TL-S or CL-S manual or automatic, running a Type-S ECU have had no problems reported, that I've seen.
There is a standalone tuning option where your can purchase an AEM EMS 30-6051 and use a Boomslang harness that is now plug and play with the CL-S6 ECU:
Nice! Thanks for the update. That's great first-hand information to know and make this thread even better.
LOL, now if only ole Charlie Mariner will come back and let us know what he did to fix his CKP-B problem.
Just an FYI. All the others who have swapped a J35A3 into either a 2G TL-S or CL-S manual or automatic, running a Type-S ECU have had no problems reported, that I've seen.
There is a standalone tuning option where your can purchase an AEM EMS 30-6051 and use a Boomslang harness that is now plug and play with the CL-S6 ECU:
I'm going to try what you're suggesting. Here's my situation:
2003 Acura CL-S, manual trans. Replacing the motor with one of the J32A japan automatic motors mentioned on this forum. It seems to be simple, as long as those are all the sensors and items to swap from my old original motor. I would think, already having the proper harness for the transmission and engine, hopefully covering these timing issues with the sensors and crankshaft items it will be like it was in the first place. I'll update this upon completion.
Replacing the motor with one of the J32A japan automatic motors mentioned on this forum.
Just curious. As a part of the motor replacement thought process, what was the reason you chose a J32A japan automatic motor over an upgrade like a J35A3 from an 01-02 MDX? Cost? Availability?
Just curious. As a part of the motor replacement thought process, what was the reason you chose a J32A japan automatic motor over an upgrade like a J35A3 from an 01-02 MDX? Cost? Availability?
Thought it'd work the best. Found out yesterday when posting I needed to pull the motor back out and do that with the old one.
Any other motor sounded like it woulda been a lot of hacks. Hope it works, any other sensors or anything you may know about that I'll need to exchange from the original motor?
Any other motor sounded like it woulda been a lot of hacks.
An automatic USDM J35A3 conversion to be compatible with your manual transmission car would have been no different than the conversion you are now performing on your current automatic JDM J32A.
Originally Posted by gurudude
Hope it works, any other sensors or anything you may know about that I'll need to exchange from the original motor?
The items below are needed from your CL-S6 J32A2 engine:
crankshaft timing belt drive pulley, 6-speed crank sensor / harness and timing belt stopper plate,
front head cam pulley / cam backing plate / cam sensors w/ harness, the connecting pipe & the water passage itself (if they are different on the J32A).
An automatic USDM J35A3 conversion to be compatible with your manual transmission car would have been no different than the conversion you are now performing on your current automatic JDM J32A.
The items below are needed from your CL-S6 J32A2 engine:
crankshaft timing belt drive pulley, 6-speed crank sensor / harness and timing belt stopper plate,
front head cam pulley / cam backing plate / cam sensors w/ harness, the connecting pipe & the water passage itself (if they are different on the J32A).
Well, next two weeks I'll be doing that and will take a look at the water pump and all that stuff mentioned. Found this and it does differ from the automatic. https://www.hondaacuraonline.com/oem...er-19410pgea10
I'll take pics and post them in a few weeks once conversion is done. Hope to hell it cranks right up. All this is due to the recent seller informing me the timing belt was recently replaced. Killed a nice strong j32a2 over a bad timing belt..
07-11-2019, 11:25 PM
Being optimistic..
