Hello All.

I have had a grinding / whining / vibration sound from the rear of the vehicle for a few months.

I thought it was just a bad tire or cupped / feathering tire, but turns out the wheel bearing is toast.

Here is a write-up on how to replace the bearing.

I do not know if this has been posted yet, I don't post or read this forum very often...

Here are pictures:













If the pictures do not tell 1000 words each, take the brake caliper and bracket off, the rotor, the dust cover, and then the 32mm nut.

The wheel bearing will slide off at this point; replace it with a new one and re-install the nut. You will need to de-stake the nut before trying to remove it. use a punch and hammer, or a grinder if you have a new nut to install.

Wheel bearings are the same for both sides, $133.91 at peoria acura in Peoria, Arizona. You can see the tools I used in the pictures, 12mm and 14mm for the caliper and bracket, impact screwdriver for the rotor; hammer, chisel and big ass pliers for the dust cap; 32mm socket and 1/2" impact gun for the bearing nut.

Hydraulic jack and jack stand for the car. If you do not have a jack stand to hold the car up during the repair; TAKE IT TO A SHOP!

I cannot stress enough the need for jack stands to hold up a vehicle during any type of repair, even if you don't get under the car.

Buy jack stands and use them!

If you have questions, private message me including your e-mail address and I will answer them.

Ray.

 

Nice pics!

That seems like a good price for the OEM wheel bearing/hub assembly.

How many miles? If it was my car, I would also replace the other side.

I didn't realize the TL had a drum parking brake, rather than the rear ratcheting caliper like the Accord.

I actually prefer the drum parking brake; Honda rear ratcheting calipers have a problems with seizing up.

 

This is very helpful! I have to do this job soon.

What are the torque settings on the nuts? and is it easier to re-use the nut or just buy new ones?

 

I just did this job tonight and it was pretty simple. Hardest part, as usual, was getting those stupid flat head screws retaining the rotor in place. I ended up drilling mine out. I got Timken hubs from Amazon. I went ahead and replaced the rotor and pads while I was at it. I'm just shy of 130K miles and the right rear bearing was groaning.

 

It helps to have a long breaker bar to turn that nut after you try to hammer the nut straight with a flat head screw driver of some kind.. Like doing front axles on an 89 Accord. I did that once.


Anyway, were the wheel bearing making any clunking or rattling noise? Like it was making noise other than whine? My car seems to be making noise over bumps but there is no whine. It does it on the front and rear. I have new sway bar on the rear with new links. So, I figure its not the sway bar links because it makes this noise on the front and rear but replacing the rear links had no impact on the noise. The front is worse than the rear. no whining though.

 

Not likely that the bearing would be clunking. Do a search on here for broken swaybar mounts or broken swaybar endlinks or endlink brackets. That's more likely your culprit, especially with an upgraded swaybar. I've been driving around without a rear swaybar for months because my subframe mount ripped.

 

I replaced the rear sway bar links with moog when i put the new sway bar on. Actually i paid someone to do it but i guess i can verify their work by making sure its all tight.

I noticed that the hole in the sway bar only fits around a little lip on the end links. It doesn't seem lime a good way to apply a lot of torque by design. But nothing a person can do about it. Just make sure the end links are as tight as possible i guess...

Btw. Cant you just weld the broken part.? I only have the type s sway bar so its not too tight to cause breaking. Plus i have eibachs so the car doesnt lean as much as oem thereby not putting as much torque of pressure on the swaY bar...which can cause breakage.

 

I just did this last night.

Wifey reported an occasional grinding from right rear on her 2008 TL-S.

Pads are good.

I checked hub play and omg it was insanely bad.

I pulled the hub and a dozen bearings fell out!

I replaced with the autozone / duralast hub for $58.

I greased the inside of the bearing / hub so that it won't seize and be difficult to remove the next time around.

I reused the axle nut too...(restaked it) :o.

 

I am having a whining sound that sounds like it's coming from the rear end, but I can only hear it after about 20 mph. It does not go away when I let off of the gas. It also does not go with the engine speed, but the speed of the car. Would this point to the wheel bearings possibly?