Well today my clutch pedal went limp (stays on floor when depressed) and I was not able to shift into any gears with engine running. Was able to get car into 3rd gear (with engine off) and then ride home in that. Any ideas as to what could be causing this?

Notes:
1. Heard a grind upon takeoff before this all started
2. Clutch/Flywheel replaced this year with <10k on them.
3. No burning clutch smell, but do smell fluid
4. Noticed some brown fluid on top-right side of tranny.
5. Even with pedal on floor, car will not start unless I put a little pressure on the pedal.
6. No strange sounds when engine is started.

Thanks,
Marlon
'04 TL - 6sp - 170,000

 

low fluid/Air in the system and bad clutch slave or master cylinders are a few causes.

 

Thanks.

After doing some inspecting, I notice that my clutch line/pipe (#16 or #22) had broken free from its clamp (#25) and that it had ruptured due to constant contact with the shift level located on top of the tranny. This looks to be the culprit and I'm not surprised as this explains the fluid on top of my tranny and lack there of in the reservoir. Anyone else ever run into this issue?


Diagram:
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/parts-c...aster-cylinder

 

Update:

Replaced the pipe and clamp and am now back up and running.

 

I kind of have the same problem: clutch limp on floor (sounds like my sex life)

So far, Ive ordered a slave cylinder and performed the infamous delete check valve mod. installed and bled the clutch with a brake bleeder system to ensure no air was in the lines. No air is in the the lines.

The resevoir stays full (no leakage) and it still doesnt have any pressure to the clutch.

Ordering a Master Cylinder and new hydraulic lines (A and B)


My question is....does anyone know of a way to cheat by R2'ing (remove and replacing) the master cylinder without having to take out the dash of the car? My mechanic says he fixed a RL and had to remove the dash to get to the Master cylinder and lines hopefully does not want to repeat that process. Neither do I.


Hes hoping he can remove the sway bar and a few other items to cheat and get it done easier...is this possible?

 

update:
answering my own question: We started out by replacing the slave cylinder. Deleted the check valve in my new slave cylinder and installed it. Bled the system and was still suffering from a limp pedal.
Replaced the master cylinder next in 1 hour and 22 minutes.

next we removed the sway bar, brake master booster followed, capped all lines and made sure not to cavetate the bmb... removed the clutch master cylinder next. Bench bled the clutch master cylinder by feeding fluid into the resevoir and holding our thumb over the threaded nut while he actuated the arm. We know you are supposed to actually hook up a line to do this but instead we used our thumb to temporarily plug the hole while running fluid through it five times, making sure not to let it suck air in the opposite way.
Anyway, installed this and reattached our bmb and lines. My mechanic than had me slowly push the break pedal in (and i mean very slowly) as he bled the rear brakes first, secured the line, and repeated that process for the front brakes. My fluid needs to be flushed but for now, it has pressure and it brakes perfectly. Lastly, we decided to hook up a vacuum line to ensure our clutch was also free of air. Once our fluid was good we did two more manual bleeds of the clutch to get the proper resistance at the pedal.

I ordered new lines as well (a and b) but decided not to go through the hassle of installing them seeming how we had an apparent lack of metal from when we were troubleshooting just the slave cylinder (cycling all the old fluid out to make sure no water was inside).

Overall: the car finally shifts like I had always imagined it SHOULD from the beginning. Its amazing! And in the end, you definitely do not have to remove the fender or dash to do this repair! 100 bucks for the master cylinder and about 75 for the slave cylinder....its worth it. Stealerships would have charged 1400 bucks for this repair. I got it done for 175. =]

 

^ You may want to re bleed your brakes as the proper bleed order was not followed.

 

I'm hoping this is the same procedure for a Type-S. Looks like there's very little working room behind the strut tower.

New Master Cylinder arriving next week.