So this is about the 3rd time i have had to change my axle, and not because they are broke or damaged but because auto part stores and sites are selling the incorrect ones, so im just trying to give everyone a heads up before your replace your cv axle buy it oem or you are bound to run into this problem. The first time it happened to me was with my the passenger axle it didnt even go in because it was off by millimeters. So i had to return it and buy oem ones which worked perfectly fine. Now at that time i also replaced the driver one it went in and all seemed perfect but then 1 month later im driving and notice drops off transmission fluid in my driveway weird thumps on the road so i start freaking out and park up. I jack the car up to find out its coming from the axle my initial thought was oh a bad seal but i remove the axle and see the seal is perfectly fine. So i go to acura and talk to the parts guy and he says just use and oem axle and everything we'll be fine, come today my axle comes in and while im doing the job i compare my axles and boy what a difference. I use to be the guy that said oem genuine parts is just bullshit the dealer just wants your money. Now i think i would never buy parts from autozone advance or jcwhitney

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Im trying to show the differences between the aftermarket axle and oem one but the pic wont show. This is serious and i almost want to find a way to file a complaint about this because im pretty sure im not the only one running into this issue

 

or buy raxles....

raxles ftw!

USA>>>>>>>China

 

 

It is shorter and doesnt come with the balancing bushing in the middle. And raxles are TAX go on hondapartsunlimited oem parts for half the price.

 

 

Raxles are still cheaper than OEM axles from Delray...

And have lifetime warranty and synthetic grease....

 

I coulda sworn someone told me they were 300+, oem ones are 300+ at the dealer but if you get them offline its alot cheaper vice versa just go with something reputable

 

I just replaced mine for like 339.75 for both shipped to my door with prepaid labels to return the cores.

And they come with the bushing since they only use OEM cores.

 

Raxles?

 

Yessir!

 

Thats actually a pretty good deal.

 

What aftermarket brand were these?

My car at stock height, etc has been fine with Advance Auto's GSP passenger axle for some time. (6MT passenger axle is different than the 5AT)

 

I had the same problem with Oreily's auto parts, i tried 5 different ones from them, even took off the drive shaft and brought it in to show them that their axles were crap..Delray has some oem axles I believe for 180-190$

 

^ thats why I say go with Raxles....save yourself the 75-100 dollars, plus they usually ship next day....quality is better IMHO.....the synthetic grease in the boots is a plus too

 

guess my dealer guys weren't lying...aftermarket chinese made axles are crap. i have OEM replacements in my car.

 

I've used advanced auto with both TL's I've had before,no problem....but I do buy oem seals at the dealer because aftermarket seals are no good...they are gsp axles...and I've always put them to use!

 

I guess some have had luck, but mines were brand new A1 CARDONE and also got a DURALAST one and same issue

 

I think something about this should be stickied somewhere.

 

OP how many miles were on the car before you had to replace your axles?

 

Many TL owners including myself have had no issues with Advance Auto GSP axles.

 

Im noticing most of the guys who havent had the problem are MT, mines AT.
And i change my axles at 60,000 only because i knew they were beat since it was previously leased so i know they were dogging it.

 

^ my car was a lease return at 40K and my OEM axles are still pristine....what you drive on and how you drive the car determines how long they last

1994 accord still has original axles at 190K plus
1998 accord still had original axles when sold at 100K
2002 CLS still has original axles at 110K

 

My passenger side went bye bye after I lowered the car, just changed both of em to be sure

 

i have a MT....mine went bad around 42k mi or so. this was on stock suspension at the time. mine were replaced at 50k mi. dealer thought it was weird that it happend so soon. i'm not hard on the car except i do enjoy cornering.

 

OP, are you on a stock suspension?

 

would running raxles on a dropped car make any difference? I got raxles installed few months because my original ones were "bent" most likely due to being dropped for ~40-45k miles.

 

I have Raxles and im lowered 2 inches on some TEIN SS....no issues for me

 

Just ordered both sides from delray for around 380 shipped. Im sure advance auto and raxles have good axles but theirs nothing like oem. Especially when theirs only a 50 dollar difference compared to raxles.

 

like I have said before....I would take Raxles over OEM anyday.....I wish I had taken a picture next to my oem ones...cheaper...better components...lifetime warranty....just cause its "OEM" does not mean it is better than any aftermarket support....raxles and advanced auto are not even on the same level....raxles cv joints and boots are far superior than the oem ones

 

Sounds like Raxles are the winner on this thread...

I have an '05 6MT with 118K on the clock(wow, that happened fast) and my driver side is knocking/thumping when turning. Debating whether or not to do them both or just the noisy one. I'm lowered on Tein S-Techs and autocross it pretty hard about 2 times a year.

Does anyone know what the cost is for OEM ones ? Ive run into a lot of the issues that you guys have experienced(incorrect size/parts) with a couple of my V-Dubs when I was going through that whole phase. Dont want to repeat that!

 

^^see post #29...poster paid $380 for both OEM axles. IIRC the price is under $200 a side now.

 

^^^ Ahh, thanx. Didnt know what the whole Delray thing was.

 

I just went through this whole thing too. Only problem is I am a 6MT and Marty (Raxles) doesn't have an outer joint for us anymore. I've called him 2x in the past year to check with no luck. I would buy raxles 100x over oem, but for a 6mt, oem truly is the only way to go. And I paid like $338 shipped for both from delray. Aftermarket axles don't like torque, and our cars are big, heavy, fwd and pretty torquey so they vibrate and shake and make noise. So, if you have 2 pedals, buy axles from Marty. 3 pedals, oem is the only way.

 

I wonder if I could buy OEM and send my old cores back to get those worked on so I have a set of worked on CV the day I screw the OEM ones again... Overkill but at least I wouldn't worry...

 

Raxles for the TL type S 2007 is impossible to GET, " F>>K !!! "

 

the shop I use to work for did axles for 200 out the door

 

Hey Guys,
I got my axles replaced with some aftermarket axles after I heard my CV joint click. At the same time, I lowered my car with Tein SS springs (~1.6"). Since then, the outer CV housing cracked wide open within 2 weeks. After these axles were replaced with a different brand, the right axle is clicking and clunking within 2 days and got worse over the course of the week.

I was thinking parts issues on the first set, but I'm questioning if the increased axle angle is over stressing the system. Anybody have this issue? Any sugguestions? Back to OEM?

Jason
2005 TL 6MT

 

^^good thing you have a 6MT...if you go back to OEM, the axles won't cost you an arm and a leg. the folks with AT, the price of OEM axles is stupid expensive now.

 

There's cheap ones under a $100 on Ebay I just wanna buy one my front Driverside... Can someone put a good name for a raxle for my car? 05 a/t ...don't really wanna get oem bcz of the supossed price...