rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Sooo, many moons ago, I chased down a squeaky clutch. I didn't want to replace the master cylinder so I got to work troubleshooting what could be causing it. Shot every type of lube into the master cylinder from the passenger footwell...all of them failed miserably...until I tried Urea High Temp Grease from Honda. I used a syringe to insert and squirt into the slave on both sides (there are access grooves when lightly pushed back) and it silenced it for good.

This was probably three years ago...or more...and it's been silent IN CABIN since.

1) Lubing the Master (in Cabin)

That is our first grease point...the master cylinder inside the car.
For this, you'll need:

15 Minutes or less
Flashlight
Something to compress the clutch while you squirt grease in (or be a man and use one hand to do that while simultaneously squirting).
A syringe for the garage
Honda High Temp Urea Grease
A rag or shop towel to wipe up excess
A smile for when the squeak stops

Remove the lower plastic kick panel and get a flashlight and look up at where the clutch pedal enters the firewall. You'll see a rod going through a flange with 2 notches...jam your syringe in here, compress the clutch all the way and depress the syringe until the chamber is full of lube.

Put everything back together and you should be done with step one. If it ends there, consider yourself lucky!

A little late for a before, but this is the nitty gritty lubed up girl.


2) Lubing the Slave ()

For this you'll need:
About an hour or so...
12MM socket and ratchet with extension
17MM/10MM open ended wrenches
Pry Bar and a Friend OR mityvac 7400 with brake/hydraulic line attachment
Rags/cup to catch the fluid if you drop it.
Funnel to refill master is a good idea

Okay, so it you're not lucky...and you're hearing the sound of a 1980's broken in and abused mattress coming from your engine bay...then your next step will be greasing up the slave cylinder. I tried throwing lube at this from above and below, but the right way to do it was to remove it and clean everything up of old grease, then lube it fresh.

(GOOD TIME TO DO THE CHECKVALVE DELETE!!!)

Removed the slave by unbolting the 2 top 12MM bolts (don't strip these...) and the 10MM compression fitting (hold the bigger bolt with 17MM wrench, do this before removing the mounting bolts)...fluid will leak out so protect your fenders/bumpers and place a rag and catch what you can from underneath. It won't just pour out, just leak a bit...there must be suction holding it in.

Once all that is undone slave will come right out. Technically, if you are fine with just lubing up the fork point...don't do anything but unbolt the mounting bolts, you can push the slave back enough to put grease in the fork receiver end without having to bleed the slave and all that.

Clean all the gunk out!


I had a weird little nipple on the top of the pin...so I sanded it all smooth...not sure if it developed over time..


Checkvalve delete still goin strong even with the dremel edge after 70K miles!


A little degreaser and some elbow grease and she lookin new


Now put it all back together, including filling up the transmission fork end with grease...pack the concave area on it...most will squeeze out anyway, but that'll ensure a little buffer.

You're done! Put everything back in and bleed the clutch (assuming you didn't just lube the outside and leave the slave connected to the hydraulic line). I'll let you figure out how to properly bleed but I did realize that you can limit the fork motion and eliminate trapped air by sticking a pry bar between it and the starter and hold it tight while someone pumps for you to bleed. I was able to bleed the system perfectly by just using the mityvac and keeping the master topped off. Was a good time to do it too, the fluid was super dark and old.

3) Lubing up the Transmission Fork

For this, give yourself an hour or two...and be patient.
You'll need:
Fastener remover (screwdriver)
10MM socket/ratchet with small extension (one is set deeper)
(this is an add on to the slave loosen/removal...this is the time to do it)
Syringe
Urea Grease
More shop towels
Some sort of mechanics mirror
Flashlight


Now, I have to credit an IS300 forum for confirming my suspicion that this might be my issue. After all that effort last night, I get back in the car and it still sounds like my grandma gumming my grandpa on their plastic covered 1972 couch. FUCK ME...worst luck ever...where could this be coming from.

With the slave out of the way, or removed...
get under the car (use jackstands evil knievel, you wanna live long enough to enjoy a squeak free clutch)
You'll need to pull the rubber boot OFF the fork, this requires some maneuvering and prying. This also let me know why I had a squeak to begin with...and why it got worse when it was humid/wet out...the ball end was rusty inside the transmission bell(end) housing. Mine was shot...gotta order a new one, but for now I added clear kitchen silicone caulking to keep the elements out...



very hard to show what I was working on...but it's in there


There is, although I cut off the nub part you need to lube under



Now, to get the grease under it, you'll need to pull it away...I used tie wraps to hold it out of the way to get the syringe under it (orientation of pic is up down but tilt your head left)


THERE, that's what you're trying to get grease under


this little set up worked like a charm...amazon ftmfw


I used my finger to check, then inserted the syringe and fished around until I found the lip and jammed it in...then used the mirror to confirm I got the right spot, then depressed the fuck out of the plunger, R Kelly style...fill that bitch up


That's it...honestly, if you're higher mileage, replace the boot...it's probably torn. I'll need to get back under there and replace mine too...for now the silicone is holding though.

J.

Happy motoring, y'all...

Reply with any questions and I'll try and answer anything that wasn't clear.

nfnsquared

Why didn't you just say, "Use the Justn method" ?

TacoBello

Because there were no trees or curbs or miss-shifts involved

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Fuckers...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I know this'll sound odd...but MAN does the fkng clutch feel smooth now. I can't exactly describe it but I think the rusty knob end making contact and transferred a crusty feeling through the pedal...I remember thinking maybe I was getting a sticky pressure plate...or worn or something when I'd press it...not major, but SOMETHING...psychologically I would almost internally cringe when I'd have to shift because all the little annoying nuances build up in your head during the driving experience (like the warped aftermarket rotors, I didn't realize how much it annoyed me until I put the brembo blanks back on)...

Anyway...was super smooth to drive and shift today...so happy. Need to order the fork boot...even thought I now did silicone it, I'd rather not have it fall apart and fall into the housing...new one it is.

Can't recommend doing this maintenance enough...in addition to all the supporting shifting mods...this car is a real treat to drive. Not as direct as the S2000...but still feels damned good to row through the gears!

TLTypeSkurtSkurt

iTrader: (1)

YOOO!! Redeeming old thread alert! rockstar, I have a couple of questions because I believe I may be experiencing something similar to something you describe. Any help would be appreciated!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

@TLTypeSkurtSkurt You gotta tag with an @
What's up?

TLTypeSkurtSkurt

iTrader: (1)

@rockstar143 my bad man! Gettin used to the forum still. I spent a good 2 hours reading through yours and some others posts last night because I just picked up a Tl Type s 6MT last month and love everything about the car but the clutch lol. Seems to be a reoccurring feeling. I don’t hate the clutch but it isn’t as smooth as I’d like. This is my 5th manual vehicle. I’m not a huge fan of the engagement or feel or whatever but I can live with it. What’s really bothering me is what you kind of describe here. In my left foot, when moving from stop or shifting through early gears, I feel a real crunchy, ricckitty, old rusty spring buzz, vibration. Whatever you wanna call it lol. So I ordered some grease. Plan on flushing the master as well and doing the check valve delete. Just wondering if you felt that “non smoothness” in the pedal as well. Clutch engages fine and pulls hard. Also it has that crappy crunchy feel when it’s not in gear also so that makes me think it’s somewhere outside the tranny like you mention here. Just trying to make sure I’m not wasting time before I go through all this. Worst case scenario I get to know the car better and do maintenance that probably needed done anyway. Oh and car has 120,000 miles.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Honestly, man...
It's a good start and that high temp urea grease definitely made the pedal engagement quiet and smooth.
Worst case, it's good to have anyway...Your clutch fork in the tranny might have some rust on it too that you feel through the pedal...
check valve delete is a MUST do. You'll love that.

TLTypeSkurtSkurt

iTrader: (1)

Sweet! Already have that exact grease on the way. And that fork rust your talking about is the spot in your write up that you were showing with a mirror correct? Pry that boot off and grease up the fulcrum area? I’ll give it all a try and let you know. I’ll definitely go ahead and do the check valve delete while I’m in there. Very much appreciated. Thanks again!

860_TypeS

Thank you for making this thread! I just installed a new CMC and CSC and I can still hear a squeak. I greased all the same areas except the inside part of the clutch fork. I didn't think you could get in there.

My questions are:
What is the nub you refer to cutting off? And what is that picture that is something that's very corroded? It's down in the pics with the clutch fork greasing.

860_TypeS

Looking at the pic more I think it's the ball that the fork presses on inside the housing? It didn't look so rusty in the other pics. Was there any way to clean it up or did you just squirt some grease and there and it was all good? I'm almost positive this is my squeak issue.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I bought some plastic syringes with varying length tips and angles off amazon and put the high temp grease in there...
I then removed the rubber boot and used a mirror and light to try and inject the grease into that fork receiver inside the
tranny...I think it gets surface rust over time and you can hear the squeak in the engine bay. Not nearly as annoying as
the one inside the cabin from the clutch master though.

860_TypeS

Dude thanks for making this thread. I got at it today, my boot was ripped too so I ordered a new one at my local Acura. I used a mirror, my LED work light, and a small paint brush to get some Honda Urea Grease in there. It was super easy, maybe 20min or so total.

Would have never known it was even possible without this thread.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

LOL...torn boot means the elements were getting to the fork creating the rust...hope it lasts a long time for you, man!
I love this forum...it's helped me figure so much stuff out...I haven't been as active these days but I appreciate people
coming in and being able to use previous solutions. Thanks for letting me know it worked for you. Take care!