This the one thing I can honestly say has been very confusing since being on here. Before it was the issue of just for sound. Or that we need a tune for it to work. Then I seen couple guys say it's a waste and they ARE tune. My question is for guys who already have The Tekeda and Ice box. Would you buy it again... And is the K&N drop in filter good enough for what perforce upgrade we do have available.

 

I have the takeda, it's quiet around town but makes a glorious noise under throttle. From what I can tell it has hurt low end power but added high end power, it has probably shaved 5hp and torque from the bottom of the rev range and added it at the top. I've been considering taking mine off since most of my driving is city but I think I'm going to keep it on anyway since it adds a bit of fun factor when I get on the twisty open road part of my work commute.

 

Controversial topic indeed. I will share my experience since I had both the Takeda and the IceBox.

Keep in mind that these intakes came out before the K Tuner and no one really did any personal testing to confirm that they did add any power or not. Most people purchased it on previous experience or on manufacturers claim of "X" HP gain.

For me I would keep the stock over the Takeda, reason being that I found the car bogged down at high RPM and I also threw a rich code after the installation of the HFPC. I did not encounter these issues with the stock intake. A tune would have probably taken care of both issues.

As far as the IceBox, it is no longer available and if you can put your hands on one it will be at a premium, for any additional power you gain from it is probably not worth the cost.

Having said that, I currently run the IceBox with the Tune and is happy with the performance of the car. I have not switched back to the stock intake to see if there is any noticeable difference.

 

All worthless and oiled filters really gets the top end sticky and dirty !

 

Icebox is best of all worlds but requires tune due to wrong MAF size to get working right. Icebox uses a combo of factory air box style with better design to get the power.

You could hack apart the factory intake, remove all the restrictive bits and end up with something better than an AEM Cold Air Intake.

Short rams make you lose power, it's sucking in hot engine bay air.

The car can barely outflow the factory filter at higher RPMS, the only benefit you get from touching the air intake system is removal of restrictions and additional sound. You'll get a minor power bump but noticing a 5HP increase in a nearly 290HP car is hard to do even with a butt dyno. Sound has a huge affect on our perception of speed/acceleration.

K&N drop in filters aren't the worst in the world like everyone claims. They aren't the best for filtering, and they CAN get your engine's top end dirty if you over-oil the filter. The recharge kit is good for 3-5 filters but most folks use the whole kit for 1 filter! I'd honestly stick with a factory paper filter than the K&N drop in with the resonator removed, etc to get the extra power.

 

I agree with your logic. I saw the 3G guys have a way to remove the intake resonator but have not ran across that with the 4G.

And yes I come to realize it is not for sale anymore but it still amaze me how much an intake like that cost lol.

 

COLD AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM

The TL and TL SH-AWD® use a cold air induction system that pulls intake air from the left side of the grill, ahead of the radiator, ensuring that incoming air is as much as 65 degrees F cooler than underhood air in the engine compartment. Cool air is denser and contains more oxygen per volume than warmer air, enabling the engine to make more power. Carefully designed ducting routes fresh air to the sealed air cleaner assembly and then on to the throttle-body. The 3.5-liter engine has a 64 mm diameter throttle-body, while the 3.7-liter engine uses a special 69 mm diameter throttle-body that generates a 12-percent flow increase.

This is the one thing that always gets me. So I guess that why it can be subjective at times. This is from the Honda News Site.

 

4G already has a CAI system, hence why I bought the drop in filter instead and would not buy a SRI. Add to the fact that I will never need to replace my filter again and I already have a recharge kit laying around for my bikes and it was an easy decision.

Honestly, you have 3 feasible options: 1. stick to the paper air filter, 2. replace with K&N drop in filter, or 3. buy the SRI. It will be hard to find the CTE Icebox so that is not really a viable option. I'm just trying to wrap my head around why you are so hung up on this topic when it's been discussed numerous times. I mean if you really want to try out the SRI for yourself, they are cheap enough that you can recoup most of your money back if you don't like it anyway.

 

Cruzan I posted long ago that if you're stuck with stock intake the way to go is to remove the resonator and all the extra plastic tubing. IMO that's better than a SRI.

 

I was actually looking on here for the DIY to remove the resonator is they even one on here?

 

Why would you want to remove the resonator if it's part of the piping that routes cold air to the airbox?

 

Yea, I'm not sure you want to do that. The system is designed to allow cold air in already unless somehow you can widen the tubing or remove the resonator if there is one (I don't know). The restriction is the paper filter. The drop-in filter will allow better air flow. I've done this to all the sportbikes I owned since they have CAI. Exhaust and tune and I'm done. Same concept applies to cars, obviously on a much larger scale. I'd love to get rid of the cats though but emissions is holding me back. On bikes, that's a non issue.

 

Bro science led me to removing the resonator. With that disclaimer out the way, here's how I rationalized airflow may be superior without it. So in stock form the CAI has a thin, narrow slit which I believe takes air in from right beneath the hood. Which imo seems to be an excellent place to take air in from. The air is then routed through plastic tubing of varying diameter in the shape of a "U", up and into the intake.

Here's how or why I thought removal of the resonator might be an improvement in air flow: when you remove all that plastic tubing, particularly the "U" the intake now takes air in from a much larger diameter "mouth" (plastic with large rubber coupler, you can remove rubber as well, I left it on), a more direct path so less delay between air in and the air comes from the area around the wheel well which is also a typical CAI intake spot. Around the wheel well there is ventilation that's meant for brake cooling, you'll now be absorbing air from that instead. From my understanding the resonator is there for the purpose of reducing sound and potentially sucking in water into the intake. Expanding the intake mouth and removed something restrictive, would have in my understanding improved flow.

 

One of our technically inclined members with a background in engineering just set me straight. All that bro science was wrong, as is most bro science lol.

 

lol all good lol.

 

hahaha... Bro science rocks!!!

 

very curious as to explanation!

Any 90 degree bend in tubing is the equivalent of having 15ft of extra straight piping....

Remove resonator to allow shorter, less restrictive path to factory filter. Factory filter box reduces incoming air velocity so there is less restriction though filter. The airbox then without a bend (free flowing turn) turns the air 90 degree to the throttle body where the diameter decreases to increase intake velocity.

 

I'll ask them if I can post the text they sent me here anonymously.

 

I'd be interested as well. I'm not looking for HP gains, just a little more growl when getting on it.

 

it's a pretty straight forward thing to do. drop the bumper, find the resonator, unbolt the resonator, pull the resonator off, re-install bumper.