C2CuSn07 TL

Guess it is time to live up to my signature. This will be a semi slow build (6mo time frame). The build has begun today with the tare down of the J37a2 for a fresh rebuild. I will chime in the man behind the camera (yungone501). Once the short block and heads make it to my door step I will take over.
The plan for this block will be a good bead blasting, rings and a healthy cleaning. 37a1 heads are next in line to the machine shop for a scouting for any possible issues. Once I get a hold of the parts a pair of RL cams will be ready to set into their new homes.

Pics of the tare down:

Scottwax

Definitely interested in this!

C2CuSn07 TL

Something came in the mail yesterday. There may or may not be matching powder coated TB and runners on the way

C2CuSn07 TL

A pair of orphans waiting on their home:

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Nice build plans. Definitely should be a fun NA monster!

gallagher828

When this is finished its going to be a monster!!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I checked all the tolerances and specs on the block. All checked out good. Also, due to the unique cylinder walls on the j37a2 blocks, the low friction/tension rings will adapt very easily to existing hone. At most, they will be glaze broken but there's hardly any glazing at all.

Heads will be dismantled and taken to the machine shop to be checked for any flaws or issues prior to mailing them out to you.

I recommend getting the block checked and cleaned professionally before starting any assembly. Especially since its all aluminum. Let me know what you want to do on this.

NBP_BALLER

This looks interesting. Wondering how your going to wire it up? You can probably run the 07 ECM and not run into too many issues. Subscribed!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

First of all, what's up Travis?! Seen your PM a few nights back but never had a chance to respond until now. Good to hear from you and if you're ever around Plano, swing by the shop and come get your hands dirty on the Accord with us.

As for the question, I'll begin by saying that the j37a2 crank runs a crank trigger that looks similar to a front bicycle chain sprocket which is inside the crankcase right behind the oil pump. This trigger wheel is what the crank sensor "watches" to pull its high resolution data from which in turn is sent back to the ECM for fuel & ignition timing. The previous j-series engines such as the j32a3 or the j35a8 uses a much smaller and less resolution trigger wheel which is externally mounted on the crank snout where it is then watched by the crank sensor mounted on the oil pump. That being said, simply using the oil pump (along with crank sensor) and trigger wheel from a j35a8/j32a3 will allow this engine to work with what the OP decided on using which is the j35a8 ECM.

NBP_BALLER

Not much man! I'm over there quite a bit, i'll stop by next time! I know they changed a few things on the 3.7 but haven't really dug into one that deep yet like you have. You've obviously done your research on the subject. I would assume MOST sensors are similar location and connectors are the same maybe. The crank sensor would def be an issue, good thing the old style oil pump fits in the j37 block. I cant imagine too many differences aside from displacement, bore size, stroke and head design... COOLIO I wanna see this thing lol I'll swing by soon!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

subd

C2CuSn07 TL

Block is at the machine shop getting flexed and cleaned, then off to get powder coated along with the valve covers. I am sure we can get more pics soon.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

very cool. Hopefully you have it done for summer!

Corey_Straker

Sub'd. Now you just gotta figure out how to get the RL's SH-AWD drivetrain into a 3G TL.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Careful with powder coat on the valve covers once they're sand blasted its almost impossible to prevent it from getting in the baffles then when its baked the pored in the metal open and the sand sticks in them then won't come out until you run them in the engine and can get sand all in your new engine even hot tanking them after powder won't remove it all

I ruined a set of valve covers having them powder coated already when I removed the baffles to clean them out all sorts of nastiness was in there and I accidentally drilled through the covers in 2 spots where its thin removing the rivets

There's a soda blasting process for blasting valve covers but the soda has to be neutralized afterwards before they can be powder coated

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

just aircraft remover that shit. lol

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Would be nice if it was that simple they need the etch from blasting it to get the powder to stick soda blasting also doesn't etch it as much I'm looking at epoxy paint for a new set of valve covers I bought

The 07 08 covers are also a magnesium alloy they have Mg stamped inside of them

Sorry for the off topic, build should be nice

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

This is very valid concern about sand blasting media contaminating the oil baffle on the valve covers. That's why they're chemically stripped instead. The factory coating on the covers is extremely durable and uses a special high-temp paint which is different from any form of powder coating I've ever stripped. It usually takes soaking them for days at a time before being able to scrape the coating off without strenuous effort. It's never a good idea to blast any part/component of an engine that has cavities that can trap the media, period.

fsttyms1

I ran mine thru a few cycles of the dish washer. I did it to my heads after porting and polishing as well.

C2CuSn07 TL

Before Images of the bare block before it was sent off to be cleaned and coated. Should be seeing after Images soon:

C2CuSn07 TL

The thought has crossed my mind. Rob needs to get started on harness merging the SH-AWD with my car.

Atlas.46

Just noticed the nitrous bottles in the first picture.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Lmao, with all the time into my own car with building a oem style conversion harness I just might be a pro now.

And to Atlas, most of the bottles are full and they're all for sale. Feel free to contact me if you (or anyone else for that matter) are in need of some Go-Go juice. I have 10lb, 15, and 20lb bottles.

fsttyms1

^ I almost picked up a wrecked sh-awd tl for cheap a year or so back to convert my 2nd gen tl to sh-awd

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I'm surprised nobody's done this yet. Especially being that the RL had an identical powertrain way back in 05. With the option of 6MT on the TL, I predict it will happen before too much longer.

C2CuSn07 TL

And the money pit forms, lol

C2CuSn07 TL

Block is back from the machine shop. Passed flex, all cleaned up inside and out and heading over to powder coating.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You forgot to mention that the pistons, chambers, valve faces and exhaust ports will all be thermally protected using a ceramic coating.

NBP_BALLER

Is this motor going to be boosted or spraying nitrous? This is going to be one badass setup, ihope its not going to cost more than the car haha. I wanna build something now!

Corey_Straker

I would attempt it if I had my own shop, an RL, patience, and money.

fsttyms1

If one were to do the work themselves it wouldnt be too bad. The car i found i could have picked up the whole thing for under 5k. 95% of everything i would have needed would have been right there. The rest would most likely have been just my time fabricating.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Agreed. I think the only reason I haven't actually had a serious thought about this conversion is because I know I wouldn't have the time. That is unless it was a customers request through my shop....*wink* *hint* *elbow to rib*

C2CuSn07 TL

Baby steps Rob, baby steps.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Block was just dropped off. Here's a few pics of it:

C2CuSn07 TL

Not costing as much as the car, however it is costing me a car......

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Lmao!!

Yeah, Jesse will be the cause of my first ever boosted RWD (domestic) v8.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

C2CuSn07 TL

Yeah, Imma miss her but I know you will do her well brother. She needs a good home with less snow.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You think others here would get mad if I started a build thread on it right smack-dab in the middle of the 3g TL performance section?

Or how about the worlds first boosted Mustang with j28 (j30 w/j25 crank) paired up with a s2k 6mt and rev that beeyotch to the moon and back...bet they wouldn't mind then!

Anyhow, now that I've got your block back, I'm going to do some block prep. First, it will be washed twice in a soap/water bath just in case any foreign material found its way into it between the machine shop, the powder coater, and my shop. While that's soaking, I'm going to prep the piston crowns, chambers, valve faces, exhaust valve stems (in exhaust pathway), and exhaust ports for ceramic coating. Basically just roughen the surfaces up a little and makes sure they are cleaned up very well so that the ceramic bonds well. All coated parts must be oven cured in a 300* oven before the coating is strong enough to not flake or fall off during reassembly or engine use. Most people simply allow the engine to complete the curing process but IMO the short gap between startup and full cure brings a good chance of flaking off. Depending on how much we have after all parts have been coated, I may try and coat at least the piston crowns twice for maximum heat insulation. Ceramic coating (or any sort of thermal coating) is often overlooked by many people but I'm a firm believer in not only its technology but also the principle of less heat that is transferred between a piston and combustion chambers, the longer life and less wear there will be on the entire engine itself. Not to mention a cooler running engine in general, more power due to a more complete burn on combustion, slight increase in compression depending on number of coats and the list goes on in more detail.

I'll update this thread as I get further into things. Until then, take care of my pony Jesse!

C2CuSn07 TL

Shop Talk update: Rob and I spent a good part of the the evening discussing a possible cam upgrade to something a little more 'beefier'. Anyone wanna chime in on this dilemma of balancing power with decent fuel economy as I commute approx 2500-3k miles a month?
If Rob had it his way we would "go big or go home" but I have to admit I love the two tanks a week I use for work apposed to what it could be :P