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Hey guys a proud new owner of a 2016 Acura ILX with 53000 km. A couple things I have noticed after a week of ownership.
It is normal that when I press on the accelerator there is a noticeable delay before the car downshifts. Also, I have low clunk noise when changing gears at low speeds (Read a bit about it being a characteristic of the 8-DCT)?.
When it downshifts the tachometer will bounce a bit up and down. I have taken it to an Acura dealer to have it fully inspected, but any input is welcomed.
Everything you described sounds normal. The short delay while downshifting, the clunking noise while changing between D and R, and the bouncing tach while coming to a stop are all normal operation for the 8DCT. I would just recommend going to the dealership and having them apply TSB 17-015 - 8-Speed Transmission (DCT) Has a Bump or Hard Shift When Coming to a Stop in case it hasn't been already applied to your car. This will ensure you car is running the latest software for it transmission.
Yes, the TSB is supposed to help with the low speed clunking. Although a natural characteristic of DCTs is that they "clunk" at low speeds. Think of it like a manual transmission, where it's harder to drive really smooth when you're crawling at low speeds. But the DCT is like an automated manual.
While you're at the dealer, have them also check if the brake squealing TSB has been applied. If not, do it.
Yes, the TSB is supposed to help with the low speed clunking. Although a natural characteristic of DCTs is that they "clunk" at low speeds. Think of it like a manual transmission, where it's harder to drive really smooth when you're crawling at low speeds. But the DCT is like an automated manual.
While you're at the dealer, have them also check if the brake squealing TSB has been applied. If not, do it.
Thank you, it's been there for two days, so I hope that they are applying all the necessary software updates. They told me that would check it. Do you think that using premium fuel might help with anything? The previous owner used regular all the time
In an attempt to quell a long and over done Premium vs Regular debate again.
The tl:dr is... at the end of the day it is up to you.
Many people debate whether or not its 'needed', or that they can save some money at the pump buying regular.
But the general consensus with the 2016+ ILX in particular, is that premium is what it was designed for, and the engine will run better with it.
At the end of the day, this is Honda/Acuras highest compression ratio engine in their current lineup at 11.6:1. More then all of previous port injected TypeR models except the late JDM CTR, and that required high octane fuel which is more common in Japan.
The engine likes premium, so feed it that. It will run on regular with reduced performance.
I do agree with the points you made and of course, my intention was not to start a debate on the subject, more like to have ideas about what everyone is doing. Thank you
Yeah lets hope that's all we need to talk about Premium fuel lol. Some threads get really heated and defensive over the subject.
Personal I always use Premium, it what the manual recommends, and its what the engine really wants given its physical properties.
Personally I just use whatever the manual recommends. If the car was a lease or I knew I was dumping it pretty soon, I'd use regular. Since I keep my cars for 15+ years, I go by the manual.
As for the TSBs, I would make sure you ask your dealer exactly which TSBs they applied. I've found it helps to actually print out the TSB and show it to them. Then there is absolutely no question on what should be done. There is a sticky with a list of all the TSBs. You will definitely want the brake squeal and transmission software update. I also had the radio preset TSB done as I was suffering from the garbage characters in the presets. They actually just replaced the entire XM unit in the trunk. Bottom line: have them perform any TSB that would remotely be necessary for your car. You're in warranty now, so take advantage. Once you're out of warranty, you're SOL.
Personally I just use whatever the manual recommends. If the car was a lease or I knew I was dumping it pretty soon, I'd use regular. Since I keep my cars for 15+ years, I go by the manual.
As for the TSBs, I would make sure you ask your dealer exactly which TSBs they applied. I've found it helps to actually print out the TSB and show it to them. Then there is absolutely no question on what should be done. There is a sticky with a list of all the TSBs. You will definitely want the brake squeal and transmission software update. I also had the radio preset TSB done as I was suffering from the garbage characters in the presets. They actually just replaced the entire XM unit in the trunk. Bottom line: have them perform any TSB that would remotely be necessary for your car. You're in warranty now, so take advantage. Once you're out of warranty, you're SOL.
Yes definitely, I'm waiting to hear back from them. I will have them show me the list of changes and updates made to the car to be sure that I have the latest software.
About the fuel, it should not harm the engine if I were to switch to premium now, would it ?
In an attempt to quell a long and over done Premium vs Regular debate again.
The tl:dr is... at the end of the day it is up to you.
Many people debate whether or not its 'needed', or that they can save some money at the pump buying regular.
But the general consensus with the 2016+ ILX in particular, is that premium is what it was designed for, and the engine will run better with it.
At the end of the day, this is Honda/Acuras highest compression ratio engine in their current lineup at 11.6:1. More then all of the
previous port injected TypeR models except the late JDM CTR, and that required high octane fuel which is more common in Japan.
The engine likes premium, so feed it that. It will run on regular with reduced performance.
So I have tried some tests with regular and premium fuel. I have linked a couple of photos. They all started with a full tank gas and until I have reached 20-40 KM before empty. The first preview was with regular gas, the second with premium and the third with regular. I am not sure how precise my testing is though
To make a true apples to apples comparison, you would have to drive the exact amount under the exact same conditions in the exact same manner. So pretty difficult to make a real scientific comparison. But I just go with what the manual says. I figure that the engineers built the engine to use a specific grade of gas, so why do otherwise?
10-17-2018, 03:58 PM
