Front Door Speaker Upgrade
08-04-2018, 03:32 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Front Door Speaker Upgrade
Hi guys,
I have a 2014 ILX base with the stock 7-speaker system. I'm interested in doing a DIY upgrading the front door speakers, both door woofer and the side mirror tweeter.
So far I plan to power things using the stock head unit amp.
Questions:
1. Has anyone done this before and can share their experience? I've seen a few vids for the 2013 Civic and the door woofer seems simple enough, but I haven't found any vids for the tweeter
2. Where/how do I install the crossover module? Are the stock wires for the woofer & tweeter separate from the source in the dashboard or are they in series/parallel from the woofer?
3. Any recommendation of speaker what brand-model? Budget is about $200-$300 for the package.
Thanks!
Irvin
I have a 2014 ILX base with the stock 7-speaker system. I'm interested in doing a DIY upgrading the front door speakers, both door woofer and the side mirror tweeter.
So far I plan to power things using the stock head unit amp.
Questions:
1. Has anyone done this before and can share their experience? I've seen a few vids for the 2013 Civic and the door woofer seems simple enough, but I haven't found any vids for the tweeter
2. Where/how do I install the crossover module? Are the stock wires for the woofer & tweeter separate from the source in the dashboard or are they in series/parallel from the woofer?
3. Any recommendation of speaker what brand-model? Budget is about $200-$300 for the package.
Thanks!
Irvin
08-18-2018, 10:22 PM
#2
Instructor
Thread Starter
Finished the upgrade today! 
What I did was upgrade the front speakers (both woofer and tweeter), add some sound vibration dampening and kept using the stock head unit.
I have a 2014 base model with 7-speakers. The component speakers I chose was the Infinity Kappa 60CSX which I got off eBay brand new for way less than MSRP.
I mainly chose these speakers since they were high efficiency with 2.5 ohm impedance rating which I knew I would need since I was keeping the stock HU.
My big challenge was using the crossover module. I didn't know if I should simply take the woofer feed as input or not.
I did a few experiments using my phone + free signal generator app.
What I found is that the tweeter inputs had a high pass filter around 2KHz or so and that the woofer inputs were indeed full range with no low pass filter.
But here's the problem I found, the woofer inputs were noisy. The tweeter inputs were noticeably cleaner with no hiss.
i'm thinking the tweeters may be driven from a different amp channel from the HU with a much better S/N ratio.
So with that I really didn't like the idea of using the woofer inputs to feed the xover which then feeds the new tweeters. I then tried to figure out the crossover points of the Infinity module to see 3 things:
1. With only a woofer installed and no tweeter, would this affect the crossover point? I read that if the crossover was the serial type that it would cause a change but not if the crossover was a parallel type. My conclusion is that it didn't matter if the tweeter outs were hooked up or not.
2. Were the woofer low pass filter set at a similar point to the head unit's high pass filter? I didn't want too much overlap. Conclusion, the Infinity xover was similarly around 2KHz for the woofer out puts (in 2-way mode)
3. If the tweeters were run by different amp channels would its sensitivity/loudness match the woofer's loudness? If I were to use the Infinity crossover module, I know I would be getting the proper tweeter to woofer balanced/blend.
So in the end, the setup I chose was to use the tweeters as a direct replacement of the stock tweeters and the Infinity woofers being fed through the crossover module. I just knew I couldn't stand the hiss if I hooked up the tweeters through the woofer inputs.
Results are good so far, there is a seamless blend from woofer down low up to the tweeters.
Sound wise: highs are awesome, I gained high frequency extension up to 12KHz. The stock tweeters started to roll off at 7KHz. Better clarity, no hiss. There is a slight sibilance but I hope it will tame down after many hours of use.
Mids have better clarity, bass guitars are cleaner with a more distinct attack and overtones.
Bass output is the same as stock, slightly less mid bass (less boomy) but tighter kick/thump.
Overall sound: The improvement is most heard at moderately loud volumes where the new Infinity speakers remain cleaner than the stock ones.
Some observations during install: The stock woofer is not bad, it seems to be a fiber cone with neodymium magnets albeit a tiny one. The tweeters look like aluminum dome tweeters. Finding a location to mount the crossover was a challenge. I ended up bolting them on the door metal panel next to the woofer. The tweeter (with various mount adapters included) ended up being an easy install with the 1" cup mating perfectly snug into the stock tweeter mount. I used a Honda speaker adapter ring to help mount the woofer.
So far I would recommend the upgrade though I would say upgrading the tweeter alone contributed the most. The woofer is only very slightly better in clarity and kick but with equal output loudness.
What I did was upgrade the front speakers (both woofer and tweeter), add some sound vibration dampening and kept using the stock head unit.
I have a 2014 base model with 7-speakers. The component speakers I chose was the Infinity Kappa 60CSX which I got off eBay brand new for way less than MSRP.
I mainly chose these speakers since they were high efficiency with 2.5 ohm impedance rating which I knew I would need since I was keeping the stock HU.
My big challenge was using the crossover module. I didn't know if I should simply take the woofer feed as input or not.
I did a few experiments using my phone + free signal generator app.
What I found is that the tweeter inputs had a high pass filter around 2KHz or so and that the woofer inputs were indeed full range with no low pass filter.
But here's the problem I found, the woofer inputs were noisy. The tweeter inputs were noticeably cleaner with no hiss.
i'm thinking the tweeters may be driven from a different amp channel from the HU with a much better S/N ratio.
So with that I really didn't like the idea of using the woofer inputs to feed the xover which then feeds the new tweeters. I then tried to figure out the crossover points of the Infinity module to see 3 things:
1. With only a woofer installed and no tweeter, would this affect the crossover point? I read that if the crossover was the serial type that it would cause a change but not if the crossover was a parallel type. My conclusion is that it didn't matter if the tweeter outs were hooked up or not.
2. Were the woofer low pass filter set at a similar point to the head unit's high pass filter? I didn't want too much overlap. Conclusion, the Infinity xover was similarly around 2KHz for the woofer out puts (in 2-way mode)
3. If the tweeters were run by different amp channels would its sensitivity/loudness match the woofer's loudness? If I were to use the Infinity crossover module, I know I would be getting the proper tweeter to woofer balanced/blend.
So in the end, the setup I chose was to use the tweeters as a direct replacement of the stock tweeters and the Infinity woofers being fed through the crossover module. I just knew I couldn't stand the hiss if I hooked up the tweeters through the woofer inputs.
Results are good so far, there is a seamless blend from woofer down low up to the tweeters.
Sound wise: highs are awesome, I gained high frequency extension up to 12KHz. The stock tweeters started to roll off at 7KHz. Better clarity, no hiss. There is a slight sibilance but I hope it will tame down after many hours of use.
Mids have better clarity, bass guitars are cleaner with a more distinct attack and overtones.
Bass output is the same as stock, slightly less mid bass (less boomy) but tighter kick/thump.
Overall sound: The improvement is most heard at moderately loud volumes where the new Infinity speakers remain cleaner than the stock ones.
Some observations during install: The stock woofer is not bad, it seems to be a fiber cone with neodymium magnets albeit a tiny one. The tweeters look like aluminum dome tweeters. Finding a location to mount the crossover was a challenge. I ended up bolting them on the door metal panel next to the woofer. The tweeter (with various mount adapters included) ended up being an easy install with the 1" cup mating perfectly snug into the stock tweeter mount. I used a Honda speaker adapter ring to help mount the woofer.
So far I would recommend the upgrade though I would say upgrading the tweeter alone contributed the most. The woofer is only very slightly better in clarity and kick but with equal output loudness.
08-23-2018, 08:49 PM
#3
Instructor
Finished the upgrade today!
What I did was upgrade the front speakers (both woofer and tweeter), add some sound vibration dampening and kept using the stock head unit.
I have a 2014 base model with 7-speakers. The component speakers I chose was the Infinity Kappa 60CSX which I got off eBay brand new for way less than MSRP.
I mainly chose these speakers since they were high efficiency with 2.5 ohm impedance rating which I knew I would need since I was keeping the stock HU.
My big challenge was using the crossover module. I didn't know if I should simply take the woofer feed as input or not.
I did a few experiments using my phone + free signal generator app.
What I found is that the tweeter inputs had a high pass filter around 2KHz or so and that the woofer inputs were indeed full range with no low pass filter.
But here's the problem I found, the woofer inputs were noisy. The tweeter inputs were noticeably cleaner with no hiss.
i'm thinking the tweeters may be driven from a different amp channel from the HU with a much better S/N ratio.
So with that I really didn't like the idea of using the woofer inputs to feed the xover which then feeds the new tweeters. I then tried to figure out the crossover points of the Infinity module to see 3 things:
1. With only a woofer installed and no tweeter, would this affect the crossover point? I read that if the crossover was the serial type that it would cause a change but not if the crossover was a parallel type. My conclusion is that it didn't matter if the tweeter outs were hooked up or not.
2. Were the woofer low pass filter set at a similar point to the head unit's high pass filter? I didn't want too much overlap. Conclusion, the Infinity xover was similarly around 2KHz for the woofer out puts (in 2-way mode)
3. If the tweeters were run by different amp channels would its sensitivity/loudness match the woofer's loudness? If I were to use the Infinity crossover module, I know I would be getting the proper tweeter to woofer balanced/blend.
So in the end, the setup I chose was to use the tweeters as a direct replacement of the stock tweeters and the Infinity woofers being fed through the crossover module. I just knew I couldn't stand the hiss if I hooked up the tweeters through the woofer inputs.
Results are good so far, there is a seamless blend from woofer down low up to the tweeters.
Sound wise: highs are awesome, I gained high frequency extension up to 12KHz. The stock tweeters started to roll off at 7KHz. Better clarity, no hiss. There is a slight sibilance but I hope it will tame down after many hours of use.
Mids have better clarity, bass guitars are cleaner with a more distinct attack and overtones.
Bass output is the same as stock, slightly less mid bass (less boomy) but tighter kick/thump.
Overall sound: The improvement is most heard at moderately loud volumes where the new Infinity speakers remain cleaner than the stock ones.
Some observations during install: The stock woofer is not bad, it seems to be a fiber cone with neodymium magnets albeit a tiny one. The tweeters look like aluminum dome tweeters. Finding a location to mount the crossover was a challenge. I ended up bolting them on the door metal panel next to the woofer. The tweeter (with various mount adapters included) ended up being an easy install with the 1" cup mating perfectly snug into the stock tweeter mount. I used a Honda speaker adapter ring to help mount the woofer.
So far I would recommend the upgrade though I would say upgrading the tweeter alone contributed the most. The woofer is only very slightly better in clarity and kick but with equal output loudness.
What I did was upgrade the front speakers (both woofer and tweeter), add some sound vibration dampening and kept using the stock head unit.
I have a 2014 base model with 7-speakers. The component speakers I chose was the Infinity Kappa 60CSX which I got off eBay brand new for way less than MSRP.
I mainly chose these speakers since they were high efficiency with 2.5 ohm impedance rating which I knew I would need since I was keeping the stock HU.
My big challenge was using the crossover module. I didn't know if I should simply take the woofer feed as input or not.
I did a few experiments using my phone + free signal generator app.
What I found is that the tweeter inputs had a high pass filter around 2KHz or so and that the woofer inputs were indeed full range with no low pass filter.
But here's the problem I found, the woofer inputs were noisy. The tweeter inputs were noticeably cleaner with no hiss.
i'm thinking the tweeters may be driven from a different amp channel from the HU with a much better S/N ratio.
So with that I really didn't like the idea of using the woofer inputs to feed the xover which then feeds the new tweeters. I then tried to figure out the crossover points of the Infinity module to see 3 things:
1. With only a woofer installed and no tweeter, would this affect the crossover point? I read that if the crossover was the serial type that it would cause a change but not if the crossover was a parallel type. My conclusion is that it didn't matter if the tweeter outs were hooked up or not.
2. Were the woofer low pass filter set at a similar point to the head unit's high pass filter? I didn't want too much overlap. Conclusion, the Infinity xover was similarly around 2KHz for the woofer out puts (in 2-way mode)
3. If the tweeters were run by different amp channels would its sensitivity/loudness match the woofer's loudness? If I were to use the Infinity crossover module, I know I would be getting the proper tweeter to woofer balanced/blend.
So in the end, the setup I chose was to use the tweeters as a direct replacement of the stock tweeters and the Infinity woofers being fed through the crossover module. I just knew I couldn't stand the hiss if I hooked up the tweeters through the woofer inputs.
Results are good so far, there is a seamless blend from woofer down low up to the tweeters.
Sound wise: highs are awesome, I gained high frequency extension up to 12KHz. The stock tweeters started to roll off at 7KHz. Better clarity, no hiss. There is a slight sibilance but I hope it will tame down after many hours of use.
Mids have better clarity, bass guitars are cleaner with a more distinct attack and overtones.
Bass output is the same as stock, slightly less mid bass (less boomy) but tighter kick/thump.
Overall sound: The improvement is most heard at moderately loud volumes where the new Infinity speakers remain cleaner than the stock ones.
Some observations during install: The stock woofer is not bad, it seems to be a fiber cone with neodymium magnets albeit a tiny one. The tweeters look like aluminum dome tweeters. Finding a location to mount the crossover was a challenge. I ended up bolting them on the door metal panel next to the woofer. The tweeter (with various mount adapters included) ended up being an easy install with the 1" cup mating perfectly snug into the stock tweeter mount. I used a Honda speaker adapter ring to help mount the woofer.
So far I would recommend the upgrade though I would say upgrading the tweeter alone contributed the most. The woofer is only very slightly better in clarity and kick but with equal output loudness.
From my experience and to be honest anyone upgrading the component speakers while maintaining the stock power source should not expect to have much more range or louder bass. Problems are usually improper sealed enclosure for aftermarket speakers and lack of power.
However if you try to ensure the impedance (ohm resistance) and sensitivity are similar, then you will usually get a cleaner sound. This seams to be follow suite for Ipribadi!
09-21-2018, 10:26 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
UPDATE:
I ended up replacing the rear speakers as well. But for those I chose the cheaper Infinity reference series REF 6522IX that I got for $60 a pair.
My main reason to upgrade the rear doors was this: soundstage.
With the treble extensions and new crisp sound I'm getting from the fronts, the rears really sounded dull.
So basically the sounds stage was weird, bright and crisp in the front and all the mids and below towards the back.
So for $60 I changed out the rear speakers, added some leftover vibration deadening and put it back together.
The results were pretty good, I'm getting good treble zing from the back, no change in mids, tighter bass that is less boomy and a great sound stage.
Now everything was balanced with full spectrum sound that wraps around me.
I mainly listen to my music thru the phone so I also have a EQ app. This greatly helped make my upgraded setup shine. My new setup now is able to thump much stronger and tighter with no distortion, it has a great sound stage and great detailed treble.
All in all I highly recommend this somewhat low cost, easy DIY upgrade. Would it sound even better with an amp? yes it probably would but that seemed to me as a much more difficult to do and costly DIY upgrade.
I ended up replacing the rear speakers as well. But for those I chose the cheaper Infinity reference series REF 6522IX that I got for $60 a pair.
My main reason to upgrade the rear doors was this: soundstage.
With the treble extensions and new crisp sound I'm getting from the fronts, the rears really sounded dull.
So basically the sounds stage was weird, bright and crisp in the front and all the mids and below towards the back.
So for $60 I changed out the rear speakers, added some leftover vibration deadening and put it back together.
The results were pretty good, I'm getting good treble zing from the back, no change in mids, tighter bass that is less boomy and a great sound stage.
Now everything was balanced with full spectrum sound that wraps around me.
I mainly listen to my music thru the phone so I also have a EQ app. This greatly helped make my upgraded setup shine. My new setup now is able to thump much stronger and tighter with no distortion, it has a great sound stage and great detailed treble.
All in all I highly recommend this somewhat low cost, easy DIY upgrade. Would it sound even better with an amp? yes it probably would but that seemed to me as a much more difficult to do and costly DIY upgrade.
09-22-2018, 09:27 AM
#5
Did you try just unplugging the rear speakers to see if the imaging and soundstage was better? Most sound quality guys don't believe in "rear fill" speakers citing that it screws up the soundstage.
10-22-2018, 01:04 AM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sound stage and sound quality are two different things; sound stage for my opinion was improved with rear speaker fill as it brought the sound closer to me seemingly wrapping around me vs. localized coming from the front dash.
Sound quality is a complicated matter, here's my simple explanation: any time you have more than one sound source emitting the same sound at the same time it can possibly cause reduced sound quality, but since I have two listening ears and most musical instruments emit a complex sound, this effects isn't too bad except for the lower frequencies a.k.a. bass sounds. This is where having a DSP module with channel delays can help.
So yes, with just the stock head unit the rear fills probably do more harm than good in the mid bass sounds depending on where you sit but improve the sound stage for the mids to the highs.
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