Relocating AC condenser locations
 

hey all,

very specific question. I have two AC condensers in the backyard and I'm currently trying to free up backyard space. One unit is 99 the other is 2008. One is nearing the end of life. I'm am considering buying new consensers and locating them on the opposite side of the house. I was able to figure out the tonnage needed but the labor is a wildcard. This is for a pro no doubt.


Can I seal, cap, and abandon the former refrigerant lines?
Better yet, Can i reuse the lines to run the new routes?

beyond the cost of new condensers, does this seem very costly labor wise?

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...5af650d562.jpg

My guess is you could cut the lines where they leave the blower and maybe resuse some of the pipes for the new run. You can sort of reweld those copper lines, I've seen it done.

what is the type of refrigerant used in the 2008 unit?

Replacing the '99 vintage unit will require you to replace both the condenser and evaporator coil because you are going from 22 to 410. If someone tells you they can clean it and reuse the coil, don't believe them. For the same reason the lineset will need to be completely replaced as well. It's not worth the potential problems down the road.

I would say 14-16k for everything, including electric... another 1k if you end up having to change the evap coil on the 2008 unit as well. This is just a guess though... I'm not very good at estimating residential work.

I was thinking 1.5k for a new 4 ton, 1k for a new 2.5 ton, and labor and piping would be 2k max, putting me at 4.5k all in. but I'm no professional

the 99 tag is far below. System charge is a 22.

I'm confused though. The newer unit has maybe 90 feet of refrigerant line. I'm proposing 10 feet for the new location. And the older unit has about 70 feet of line, to be replaced by 40 feet.

If a new system is 20-30k, how would it cost half that to relocate two fans, with shorter lines, and no ductwork.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...67c60fac58.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...244067ee60.png

so the 2008 is 410 and the 1999 is 22

you are definitely light on your $'s

Here's the blower for the r22condenser in the attic. So you are saying they need to replace this entire unit as well??

Just trying to wrap my arms around this. So 20 years ago, the systems were primarily r22. Now they are 410. And anyone that needs to replace their 20 yr old r22 air condenser needs to drop 10k plus in upgrading the entire system??

Sorry just getting up to speed here

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...2a0e2ab89e.jpg

:thumbsup:

really, it's just the coil that needs replacing... the fan is fine, but you can see why the whole thing would be replaced.

in extreme situations you can change the expansion valve and flush the coil and piping with a cleaner, but it's really not a good idea.

If you don't need to redo ducting i think you should be able to get it done around $10k-12k. Is your house the size of a small commercial building where you need to have 6.5 tons of AC, that sounds nuts to me.

No ducting.

​​​​​​​In 1999, the owner installed a 2.5 ton unit for the 1,400 SF second floor; R22. The owner after that installed a 48,000 BTU (which is 4.0 tons), and that services a 1,800 SF first floor, plus a 1,400 SF finished basement.

I am seeing evaporator coils to be ~$500 for a 410. This is still mind blowing to me. The cost of equipment is 3k total for the two condenser and coil, and the cost of labor is approaching 10k...

(I am just gathering info and educating myself so I dont get fleeced by a contractor).

you just have ac units not heat pump correct?

correct. I have original radiant heating throughout the house. The basement MAY be a be on a different system tied the newer 2008 zone 2. But as far as the other floors go - definitely radiant.

here ya go... this is about as cheap as you can go but still decent efficiency
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...487cea2127.jpg

I would say get a few different HVAC guys to come out and get you some real quotes, but I would refused to pay over $10K. About $4-5K tops for supplies and another $5k is more than plenty for installation.

It's crazy what some of these HVAC guys charge. When I bought my house it had electric baseboards heat and no central ac. We had a small HVAC guy come out and install a brand new 3 ton AC unit with a brand new high efficiency gas furnace and ran all ducting for $6,700,

Is this a real offer?

it's a real quotation

add tax, and then 20% and you'll have what they should charge you for the equipment... there's prolly another couple hundred of miscellaneous material you'll need as well... and then a few hundred for new disconnects and wire for the electrician.

that guy's pricing seems to be in line with with what I was saying... I'm probably a couple thousand high, but I'd rather be high than low.

adding in tax, 20%, and misc, thats $5k flat for two new units, air handler, install, lineset, everything...what brands are you spec'ing?

There's no labor in there

York

Oh, so where do you think that would ultimately shake out?

12-14k

i'm having a second zone added for my second floor addition... includes materials, new ducting and labor i was just over $9... but that doesn't include the plumbing and electrical bill...

but mine also includes Heat...

if you want i can send my HVAC guy to your house... they are really good and fair with their prices...

Thanks, Kam! Do you mind PM'ing me the info?
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That's about right. We had the one at our old house replaced for around that. Check with your power company to see what rebates are available. I would go with the highest seer rating possible.

^^that was material cost. with labor the quote was 12-14k. Is that what you spent?

That was the total cost of the york unit and labor. I ended up getting about $1500 back in rebates and tax credits. I think this was done in 2012-13. I can't recall if it was a 1.5 or 2 ton unit.

Just for clarification, there are two condensing units, one air handler with evap coil, an expansion valve, and two linesets on that quote.

Here's your rebate info
Cooling Equipment | NJ OCE Web Site
It usually does not cover the cost of any additional efficiency, just offsets it. I believe you'll have to get your contractor to perform a manual J as well.