Blazin Si

I'm looking for something I can easily find at a local home improvement store. This is the stuff I bought. It's a two part epoxy that I believe is resistant to oil. That's the most important thing. I also want it to be opaque so it will help conceal the crack in the concrete.

Has anyone tried it? Is there something better I should look into? I want to start on it by the middle of the week. I already leveled out some of the high spots and etched the surface. Thanks.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

From what I've read, all the 2 part epoxy products are pretty much the same.

You should be fine.

Biggest tips I can give you is PREP PREP PREP!!! When you think you're ready to apply the coating, prep again. The main reason these coatings fail is poor bonding.

Is it new concrete? Did you do the moisture test? (tape a sheet of saran to the floor and check for moisture).

1) If you have oil stains, grease, thoroughly clean the floor
2) make sure you acid etch the floor. It should come in the box. I did the acid etch twice and rinsed the floor REALLY REALLY well. The etch creates dust which will hurt the bonding.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, good thing you didn't go with Behr.

paz840

iTrader: (2)

I used the Quikrete epoxy on my new concrete garage floor (2 coats + 1 coat clear).
After 2 years, it is starting to peel in some spots.

And yes, I prepped it thoroughly with a power washer and acid etch.

I may just end up going with some sort of tile in the future.

Blazin Si

The concrete is several years old, but we had it leveled since the middle of the floor had sunk a couple inches. A guy had come out and drilled a few holes, then filled it with a mud/sand mix.

After that, I filled the holes and the larger cracks with an epoxy. When it dried, I rented a machine to sand down the high spots. I then cleaned the floor of all dust and debrit and etched the surface with a separate acid (not the acid that comes in the box shown above). This is where we stopped and this progress has all taken place over the last week.

I think I'm ready to open the box and finish it off. Thanks for the response. I'll be sure to take extra care in the final steps so that it bonds correctly.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Do the moisture test.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

That's what I'm going to do in the future, but with ceramic tile, it becomes expensive with a two-car , 400 sq. ft. garage.

Bearcat94

Yes, yes, yes.

I read these threads from time-to-time and people always talk about how it doesn't last or chips or peels.

I'm going on 3 years of modest/normal home use and I've got 1 chip and no peeling. I spent AT LEAST a week, maybe 10 days, prepping the floor - sweeping, mopping, scrubing, over & over.

The other thing that I think has helped durability is I used two coats of clear sealer.


Blaze, that's the same kit I used.

Scrib

I will say that I was very optimistic on the OP's product. I put it down when we moved in over 5 years ago. Garage floor was virgin, and the concrete had many months to set up.

Bottom line is, the stuff has pulled up where the tires sit and under the the area where the cars generate their heat. I can try and take some pics if I remember...

Perhaps I didn't prep the floor the proper way... It was our first home, so I was probably excited and wanted to get on to other projects. But I do remember following the directions, using the muratic acid, etc. I didn't spend quite a bit of time, so I can;t imagine more time spent would have been beneficial.

When the cars are parked, it looks fine. But with them out, you see all the way down to the concrete in large areas.


I'm sure there are products out there that work and the above may be just fine. It didn't work for me, that's for sure.

Bearcat94

After how long Scrib?

I'm just now starting to see some tire rubber build up. Not any flooring/paint pulling up though (yet ). We're somewhere near or just past 2 1/2 years since install.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

The concrete should feel like 100 grit sandpaper after the etch. Wash all of the concrete dust out of the garage and let it dry completely. It is latex based so the last step might not be that important.

Scrib

3 years or so.

Blazin Si

Several years ago I was in a friends parents garage, when I accidentally kicked over a bucket of used motor oil. It had a clear coating on the floor that made clean-up as simple as wiping it up with some rags. It didn't look like the concrete was coated and that's the stuff I want to buy.

Possibly, I could paint the floor first. Then coat it with this mystery product afterwards. I just can't find it anywhere.

rza49311

iTrader: (1)

if there is no vapor barrier beneath the floor, it will eventually peel/flake from what i've read.

csmeance

more than likely it was concrete sealant, kinda like Rain-x for windshields, but for concrete. If you have ever applied tire shine in your driveway and splattered some on the concrete, you'll see for the next few years (or until you pressure wash HEAVILY) that the spot will always look dry and the water will be beaded.

I used to use some Blackfire Tire foam at my old home and the driveway looked like it was spotted when it rained! Dark grey where it was wet and then white concrete where there was tire shine.

fsttyms1

My buddy rented a floor sander and sanded his garage floor (after he powerwashed, and acid etched). 6 years later it is still holding up great.

Blazin Si

I just finished using the acid in the box. It doesn't feel as rough as 100 grit sandpaper. Maybe more like 600. I pressure washed the whole area and then swept it out as best I could.

I haven't done that yet. After work tomorrow, I'll swing by Lowes and grab some plastic. Do I need to a sheet to cover the whole floor, or would a 10x10 foot section be sufficient?

I have seen that before and that's the effect the garage floor had on the puddle of oil. It sort of beaded up after the majority of it had be cleaned. I don't remember the floor having an oily residue to it prior to the mess I had made. Although I never actually paid close attention to it.

Here's were I'm at now. I stuck fans in the windows to hopefully evaporate most of the water. It's been getting down into the 40's at night. It may draw out the drying process.

5o9

People in the aviation business tell me this is hopeless, even if perfect, hot tires destroy the coatings.

I would consider stain and seal, but you are too far from clean.

Or if I had nothing better to do, there are interlocking rubber pads.

When the others are talking acid, think it is muriatic, maybe 50% diluted.

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

has anyone done line-x?

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

You only need a small area. You can just tape a piece of Saran Wrap to the ground. Use duct tape toe keep it sealed. Wait 24 hours then check for condensation under the Saran.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Looks very expensive. Not DIY.

fsttyms1

The U-Coat stuff is really good stuff. A guy i know has that in his garage, he has had it for 8 years he said and the stuff looks like new. He parks 5 cars on it, has a hoist and does a lot of motorcycle and car wrenching and none of it has lifted

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

I too have heard of people having problems with peeling where the tires are regardless of prep... so my plan was to put down a garage floor coating... then get strip of tiles where the cars park. Something similar to this:



So the garage floor is done, but the car sits on the tiles so the hot tires are not coming into contact with the coating when parked. Looks pretty cool too IMO

LuvMyTSX

We would also like to do something with our garage floor. The red coating that's on there now is peeling like crazy. I found some on my tire earlier this week and it's just going to keep getting worse.

Scrib

I've looked into this, but good titles are wicked expensive.

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

^ They are expensive... but just doing a little pad or something for the cars wouldn't require that many tiles... so the cost is relatively low. What's pictured is also a higher end solution. They make parking pads and other things which look nice but are much less then tiles. So that's a possibility as well.

Blazin Si

Those tiles look like a nice solution to the peeling problem. When it comes to cleaning, I'd imagine all you'd need to do is remove them and pressure wash?

I finished the floor two nights ago. Some of the paint flakes are loose and it looks as though I might have applied it too thin. The instuctions mentioned that 1 gallon would cover a 1 car garage. I have a 2 car garage and had 1/3 of the 2nd gallon left over. I spoke to a neighbor who told me about a clear coat that can be applied to seal everything in.

I'll try to grab a photo tonight to show the finished results.

Bearcat94

I did 2 coats of clear and I think that has helped some with durability.

When it's wet, it slicker than $*** though. :lol:

Blazin Si

It really is. I went ahead and picked it up on the way home from work. Turned out great though. The paint itself wasn't nearly as glossy. The clear coat makes it look better.

hornyleprechaun

Damn that's a clean garage.. must clean mine soon

Blazin Si

It's clean for now. As soon as it dries, a car that doesn't move will be parked in there along with all sorts of boxes full of parts. Plus all the tool boxes, the air compressor etc... Everything that's supposed to be in there is currently sitting in my driveway.

paz840

iTrader: (2)

Nice work Blazin, garage looks good.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

They make a non-slip coating you add to the epoxy. I used it and it's great. I even added it to the paint I used to paint my front porch. Makes a nice no-slip coating.