CCColtsicehockey's Home Projects Thread
03-13-2018, 01:41 PM
#281
Ex-OEM King
I agree. Don't use pallet wood for anything other than decoration. The shelves that you posted that you really liked would be great as you'd use the pallet wood to wrap the real structural parts for appearance only.
03-13-2018, 02:34 PM
#282
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Even if this pallet wood is 1-1.5in thick? These are not your typical pallets with 1/2in thick wood pallet slats. They seem a little thick for wrapping something.
03-13-2018, 03:24 PM
#283
Ex-OEM King
Pallet wood can have some great appeal/character in terms of weathering and patina if you plane them down to clean it all up. Sometimes you might get lucky and have some spalted or curly pallet wood. If you leave it rough, you'll never know. Just make sure you get ALL of the nails/screws out and check for any rot or soft spots before you make something out of it. Running a nail through a planer is a great way to buy your buddy some new planer knives.
03-14-2018, 10:38 AM
#284
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This stuff might even be too thick to make these as it might make them too heavy. The pieces are 1 1/4in thick. There are multiple different widths. I was going to end up using two pieces for the top of the sheld cause there is nothing 9in deep to use for the top of the shelf.
03-14-2018, 11:17 AM
#285
Ex-OEM King
^ You'll easily lose pretty close to 1/4" in sanding and planing all the crap off of those pieces. Also, you may want to look closer and find out what you have left after properly milling that wood to something useful. I don't think it would be too heavy at all. 1" thick wood is pretty common and pallet wood is usually pretty light softwood rather than hardwood.
03-14-2018, 11:28 AM
#286
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^ You'll easily lose pretty close to 1/4" in sanding and planing all the crap off of those pieces. Also, you may want to look closer and find out what you have left after properly milling that wood to something useful. I don't think it would be too heavy at all. 1" thick wood is pretty common and pallet wood is usually pretty light softwood rather than hardwood.
03-14-2018, 11:50 AM
#287
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Ah ok, yeah I think you'd be fine to use them for shelving either way. I still wouldn't use for furniture though.
03-14-2018, 12:28 PM
#288
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And recommendations for a good planner that is reasonably priced? It would probably make sense to pick one up when I start those dog kennels later this year.
03-14-2018, 01:07 PM
#289
Ex-OEM King
Define reasonably priced...
You can get the Ridgid one (which is what I'd get if I was going lower end) for not too bad. If you want the best lunchbox planer, the DeWalt is the best one but it's ~$600.
If you don't have a table saw, you should get that before a planer though...
Edit: FWIW, I have a Delta planer that I bought for $200 from a guy on craigslist. He included a new set of knives (they aren't very expensive) and it has been rock solid for me. As I get more into this stuff, I may upgrade to the DeWalt as it is FAR more stable in regards to snipe and has a built in dust blower. Planers make a HUGE mess any time you use them so just a warning lol. Last time I made one cutting board, I filled up an entire paper bag with chips. They make for really good fire starting material though.
You can get the Ridgid one (which is what I'd get if I was going lower end) for not too bad. If you want the best lunchbox planer, the DeWalt is the best one but it's ~$600.
If you don't have a table saw, you should get that before a planer though...
Edit: FWIW, I have a Delta planer that I bought for $200 from a guy on craigslist. He included a new set of knives (they aren't very expensive) and it has been rock solid for me. As I get more into this stuff, I may upgrade to the DeWalt as it is FAR more stable in regards to snipe and has a built in dust blower. Planers make a HUGE mess any time you use them so just a warning lol. Last time I made one cutting board, I filled up an entire paper bag with chips. They make for really good fire starting material though.
Last edited by SamDoe1; 03-14-2018 at 01:12 PM.
03-14-2018, 02:32 PM
#290
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I picked up this table saw back around black Friday when it was around $250. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hitachi-15-...Saw/1000178999 I still have not set it up yet but that will change when I make these shelves next.
How necessary is a planer for things? The main thing I could think of needing to use it for when I build the dog kennels is for the boards to make the top countertop surface.
How necessary is a planer for things? The main thing I could think of needing to use it for when I build the dog kennels is for the boards to make the top countertop surface.
03-14-2018, 03:24 PM
#291
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Like any other tool, it's not 100% necessary but makes the job easier and faster. Depending on how wide your shelf is, it may not fit in the planer anyway. Mine has a max width of 12.5" so anything bigger than 12" isn't going through it. If you don't really see a need for it beyond one project then don't bother getting one. You can get the same results with a sander and some time.
That saw looks good, make sure you spend a good amount of time tuning it before using it on a project. You'll find that there are all kinds of things that need to be changed to square it up even if the instructions say it was set up at the factory. My DeWalt saw had issues with fence square to blade, blade perpendicular to table, etc... Lots of work was done to dial it in. Also, you'll want a new blade sooner rather than later. The factory ones are usually pretty terrible but see how it goes first.
That saw looks good, make sure you spend a good amount of time tuning it before using it on a project. You'll find that there are all kinds of things that need to be changed to square it up even if the instructions say it was set up at the factory. My DeWalt saw had issues with fence square to blade, blade perpendicular to table, etc... Lots of work was done to dial it in. Also, you'll want a new blade sooner rather than later. The factory ones are usually pretty terrible but see how it goes first.
03-15-2018, 09:10 AM
#293
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Define reasonably priced...
You can get the Ridgid one (which is what I'd get if I was going lower end) for not too bad. If you want the best lunchbox planer, the DeWalt is the best one but it's ~$600.
If you don't have a table saw, you should get that before a planer though...
Edit: FWIW, I have a Delta planer that I bought for $200 from a guy on craigslist. He included a new set of knives (they aren't very expensive) and it has been rock solid for me. As I get more into this stuff, I may upgrade to the DeWalt as it is FAR more stable in regards to snipe and has a built in dust blower. Planers make a HUGE mess any time you use them so just a warning lol. Last time I made one cutting board, I filled up an entire paper bag with chips. They make for really good fire starting material though.
You can get the Ridgid one (which is what I'd get if I was going lower end) for not too bad. If you want the best lunchbox planer, the DeWalt is the best one but it's ~$600.
If you don't have a table saw, you should get that before a planer though...
Edit: FWIW, I have a Delta planer that I bought for $200 from a guy on craigslist. He included a new set of knives (they aren't very expensive) and it has been rock solid for me. As I get more into this stuff, I may upgrade to the DeWalt as it is FAR more stable in regards to snipe and has a built in dust blower. Planers make a HUGE mess any time you use them so just a warning lol. Last time I made one cutting board, I filled up an entire paper bag with chips. They make for really good fire starting material though.
Not too worried about the mess cause I typically do all my work outside in the driveway instead of in my garage whenever possible. I also always hook my shop vac up to the exhaust port to try and contain everything as much as possible.
Like any other tool, it's not 100% necessary but makes the job easier and faster. Depending on how wide your shelf is, it may not fit in the planer anyway. Mine has a max width of 12.5" so anything bigger than 12" isn't going through it. If you don't really see a need for it beyond one project then don't bother getting one. You can get the same results with a sander and some time.
That saw looks good, make sure you spend a good amount of time tuning it before using it on a project. You'll find that there are all kinds of things that need to be changed to square it up even if the instructions say it was set up at the factory. My DeWalt saw had issues with fence square to blade, blade perpendicular to table, etc... Lots of work was done to dial it in. Also, you'll want a new blade sooner rather than later. The factory ones are usually pretty terrible but see how it goes first.
That saw looks good, make sure you spend a good amount of time tuning it before using it on a project. You'll find that there are all kinds of things that need to be changed to square it up even if the instructions say it was set up at the factory. My DeWalt saw had issues with fence square to blade, blade perpendicular to table, etc... Lots of work was done to dial it in. Also, you'll want a new blade sooner rather than later. The factory ones are usually pretty terrible but see how it goes first.
The other main thing I would imagine it would be helpful with is making an entire countertop out of multople boards connected on the long edge since I could make sure they were uniform thickness. That is unless I can buy finish grade wood that would be exactly the same.
I plan to spend a full weekend watching youtube videos and working on getting everything square on the saw before I used it. I made that mistake on my keezer build with my chop saw but thankfully could cover that up with the trim boards. I fixed it before my picture frames.
I definitely look forward to getting it setup.I have seen good things about Freud routers and bits. I grabbed myself a cheap Craftsman when it was on sale but so far it is done everything I need it too. It is really fun to use.
03-15-2018, 11:02 AM
#294
Ex-OEM King
Is this the one you are talking about DeWalt DW735X. If so I just missed a really good deal I guess as it was on sale for only $399.99 on eBay. I don't like buying tools twice if I don't have too so I may opt to just wait for another deal on that if that is what you suggest.
Not too worried about the mess cause I typically do all my work outside in the driveway instead of in my garage whenever possible. I also always hook my shop vac up to the exhaust port to try and contain everything as much as possible.
Yup that's the one. If you can get it for that price brand new, definitely buy one and send me a link so I can buy one too haha. If you're only going to use it sporadically, it's not a bad thing to get a cheaper one so don't feel that you'd get different or better results with the expensive planer vs the cheaper one. The big advantage of the dewalt is running lots of parts through it. If you're doing only a couple at a time it won't really get you much more than a cheaper one.
For the shelf I am thinking only about 9-9.5in as I don't want them to stick our too far and look strange. They will mostly be for sitting some pictures on and other decorations. Noting too heavy or large. I will be building two about 4-5ft long for the larger wall and probably two about 3ft long for the shorter wall in the room. If I am joining two boards on the long edge to make the top of the shelf would you join them first them put them through the planer or put them both through the planer seperately and then join them? Doing final touchup with a sander then instead.
If this is all you're going to do then I'd just buy some pre-thicknessed lumber and a dowel jig to align the boards. It'll be much cheaper than a planer and a dowel jig can fit in a drawer rather than needing its own bench. If you want to get a planer, then definitely join the boards prior to planing otherwise you're basically duplicating work and wasting material. You will also want to make sure that the boards are jointed on edge so they fit together without a gap. This can be done with a table saw but not a planer. The BIG limitation of a planer is that it references cut (top) face from the bottom reference face. So if the bottom face is all jacked up, your top will be too. A jointer or table saw can have it's own reference that it cuts from that's known to be true. Google table saw jointer jigs, they are super handy.
The other main thing I would imagine it would be helpful with is making an entire countertop out of multople boards connected on the long edge since I could make sure they were uniform thickness. That is unless I can buy finish grade wood that would be exactly the same.
I'd buy the wood at the same grade no matter what for consistency purposes. If you're not buying finish grade wood (ie rough lumber), I'd buy a jointer before I bought a planer which is a big mistake I made.
I plan to spend a full weekend watching youtube videos and working on getting everything square on the saw before I used it. I made that mistake on my keezer build with my chop saw but thankfully could cover that up with the trim boards. I fixed it before my picture frames.
Those jobsite saws tend to be all fucked up from the factory. You probably need an hour or two at most but make sure it's all good. It's harder to tune a table saw than it is to tune a miter saw.
Not too worried about the mess cause I typically do all my work outside in the driveway instead of in my garage whenever possible. I also always hook my shop vac up to the exhaust port to try and contain everything as much as possible.
Yup that's the one. If you can get it for that price brand new, definitely buy one and send me a link so I can buy one too haha. If you're only going to use it sporadically, it's not a bad thing to get a cheaper one so don't feel that you'd get different or better results with the expensive planer vs the cheaper one. The big advantage of the dewalt is running lots of parts through it. If you're doing only a couple at a time it won't really get you much more than a cheaper one.
For the shelf I am thinking only about 9-9.5in as I don't want them to stick our too far and look strange. They will mostly be for sitting some pictures on and other decorations. Noting too heavy or large. I will be building two about 4-5ft long for the larger wall and probably two about 3ft long for the shorter wall in the room. If I am joining two boards on the long edge to make the top of the shelf would you join them first them put them through the planer or put them both through the planer seperately and then join them? Doing final touchup with a sander then instead.
If this is all you're going to do then I'd just buy some pre-thicknessed lumber and a dowel jig to align the boards. It'll be much cheaper than a planer and a dowel jig can fit in a drawer rather than needing its own bench. If you want to get a planer, then definitely join the boards prior to planing otherwise you're basically duplicating work and wasting material. You will also want to make sure that the boards are jointed on edge so they fit together without a gap. This can be done with a table saw but not a planer. The BIG limitation of a planer is that it references cut (top) face from the bottom reference face. So if the bottom face is all jacked up, your top will be too. A jointer or table saw can have it's own reference that it cuts from that's known to be true. Google table saw jointer jigs, they are super handy.
The other main thing I would imagine it would be helpful with is making an entire countertop out of multople boards connected on the long edge since I could make sure they were uniform thickness. That is unless I can buy finish grade wood that would be exactly the same.
I'd buy the wood at the same grade no matter what for consistency purposes. If you're not buying finish grade wood (ie rough lumber), I'd buy a jointer before I bought a planer which is a big mistake I made.
I plan to spend a full weekend watching youtube videos and working on getting everything square on the saw before I used it. I made that mistake on my keezer build with my chop saw but thankfully could cover that up with the trim boards. I fixed it before my picture frames.
Those jobsite saws tend to be all fucked up from the factory. You probably need an hour or two at most but make sure it's all good. It's harder to tune a table saw than it is to tune a miter saw.
03-20-2018, 11:17 AM
#295
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Photos/frames look excellent!
Tables, I prefer the first option.
Thanks for the floating shelve ideas, my wife would definitely like the iron pipe option, may look into that for our house.
Tables, I prefer the first option.
Thanks for the floating shelve ideas, my wife would definitely like the iron pipe option, may look into that for our house.
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04-01-2018, 04:05 PM
#296
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Finally got one of the pallets torn apart this weekend so I could start planning a bit for how I want to design the shelves. Have definitely settled on this design for sure just working now on how big I want them to be as well which is the best use of the size pieces I have from the pallets.
04-01-2018, 04:52 PM
#297
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So a small side project I have been working through my head for the past couple months on and off is how to get better wifi to the master bedroom side of my house as well as the fire pit area of my backyard. I have also wanted to start working on hardwired security cameras for the the house and so getting internet to the attic would be important. Unfortunately the house was not wired for network when it was built. The phone lines were also not run as a direct run but instead they were run daisy chain throughout the house. So what I was able to do after tracing the the wires run and verifying the direction the daisy chain of phone cat5e cable used for the phone line went I decided I could connect all the phone lines together to get me up to the attic.
Borrowed some of our network tools at work to trace the cables.
Borrowed this to make sure I was able to get full 1gb throughput over the long cable I created. It also showed me the total distance of the run which came out to be 191ft. So luckily it falls well within the distance for 1gb over cat5e.
Then I took this mess...
...and wired it into this. I then put blank covers over the boxes.
After all the cabling was complete I picked up a second Asus RT-AC68U. Asus recently came out with a new firmware to use their existing hardware in a mesh network. You can also use a cable backbone instead of it being a wireless only mesh. So far this is working extremely well but it only has been running for two days so have not had much time to test it.
So I guess with home ownership fun comes issues. I went to grab a beer Friday after finishing the network project from my garage fridge and the beer was not ice not. Honestly it was barely chilled at all. This fridge has been on the way out for about the last 6 months. I have been able to get by though by unplugging the power and letting it sit for about an hour and plugging it back in. Well Friday was finally the time the no longer worked. So on to craigslist I went. Found a good fridge 30min away that was just posted Saturday evening and picked it up this morning already.
Out with the old.....
.....In with the new to me
Love the new fridge but something I didn't consider was the fact that going to a side by side actually seems to hold less beer than my top/bottom setup from before. The new fridge is even 6in wide and still doesn't seem to hold as much. So I don't put much in this besides beverages so I found on ebay an extra shelf today and ordered it. Going to remove one of the bins and install an additional shelf.
Borrowed some of our network tools at work to trace the cables.
Borrowed this to make sure I was able to get full 1gb throughput over the long cable I created. It also showed me the total distance of the run which came out to be 191ft. So luckily it falls well within the distance for 1gb over cat5e.
Then I took this mess...
...and wired it into this. I then put blank covers over the boxes.
After all the cabling was complete I picked up a second Asus RT-AC68U. Asus recently came out with a new firmware to use their existing hardware in a mesh network. You can also use a cable backbone instead of it being a wireless only mesh. So far this is working extremely well but it only has been running for two days so have not had much time to test it.
So I guess with home ownership fun comes issues. I went to grab a beer Friday after finishing the network project from my garage fridge and the beer was not ice not. Honestly it was barely chilled at all. This fridge has been on the way out for about the last 6 months. I have been able to get by though by unplugging the power and letting it sit for about an hour and plugging it back in. Well Friday was finally the time the no longer worked. So on to craigslist I went. Found a good fridge 30min away that was just posted Saturday evening and picked it up this morning already.
Out with the old.....
.....In with the new to me
Love the new fridge but something I didn't consider was the fact that going to a side by side actually seems to hold less beer than my top/bottom setup from before. The new fridge is even 6in wide and still doesn't seem to hold as much. So I don't put much in this besides beverages so I found on ebay an extra shelf today and ordered it. Going to remove one of the bins and install an additional shelf.
04-03-2018, 12:56 PM
#298
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Love that I'm not the only one who borrows tools from work, I've had my own cat5 tester and punches since I was in HS also,
That beer fridge is badass bro!
That beer fridge is badass bro!
04-03-2018, 02:48 PM
#299
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I have had crimp and punch down tools since high school but never had a tester. A buddy of mine had one in high school and then I have always just been able to borrow what I have needed since then.
Couldn't believe the deal I found on the fridge. Ice maker leaked so he removed it and thus sold the fridge for only $160. There were tons of fridges on craigslist that looked like the one I was replacing for $100-150. Think he just wanted it gone.
Couldn't believe the deal I found on the fridge. Ice maker leaked so he removed it and thus sold the fridge for only $160. There were tons of fridges on craigslist that looked like the one I was replacing for $100-150. Think he just wanted it gone.
04-03-2018, 03:38 PM
#300
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That is a crazy deal, nice find!
when reading all that network Cat 5 to the 6, plug into the Ethernet ground I'm like 
04-04-2018, 03:12 PM
#304
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Been running network cable and such since I was about 13 or 14.
04-05-2018, 09:23 AM
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Our house growing up was built in 1990 and didn't have network cables in it so being the the nerd I am and the house having exposed basement basement and a full walk attic I was able to wire up 90% of the rooms that needed it after the fact. Biggest issue now is that at that age I weighed about 1/3 what I weigh now.
04-05-2018, 09:54 AM
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Yeah typically it would be if you don't have access to come down walls from the attic or up through the basement. This is the issue I am having at my house now. Most of what I want to do in some rooms is only accomplished with tearing out drywall.
04-05-2018, 02:11 PM
#310
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Wow, nice work on the re-cabling!
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04-10-2018, 06:25 AM
#312
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04-10-2018, 06:46 AM
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So as I mentioned in the previous post I wasn't happy with the space completely in the new fridge. So I ordered an additional shelf and was going to make some modifications to them all. Last night I had an hour of time so I was able to make that happen.
Current setup before modification. Wasted space above each row of cans.
Shelves before trimming
Router setup to do the trimming. Ran them through vertical as to try and get the straightest cut possible.
After trimming and some cleanup work with a file. They are just a hair over half an inch thick. Not sure if all the extra plastic was just to make them look good or if it was actually for strength but it was in the way.
Now I can raise the shelf and it is perfect tor a 16oz can.
It still pulls out as well.
Before.....
.....and after
Basically I gained enough room by trimming the shelves down to add another shelf at 12oz can height. I was still able to keep the bottom shelf high enough for large items like 750ml beer bottles and wine bottles. This will allow me to organize the doors now for larger items that are extra for the house fridge like juice, milk, and also 12oz beer bottles fit better on the door as well.
Current setup before modification. Wasted space above each row of cans.
Shelves before trimming
Router setup to do the trimming. Ran them through vertical as to try and get the straightest cut possible.
After trimming and some cleanup work with a file. They are just a hair over half an inch thick. Not sure if all the extra plastic was just to make them look good or if it was actually for strength but it was in the way.
Now I can raise the shelf and it is perfect tor a 16oz can.
It still pulls out as well.
Before.....
.....and after
Basically I gained enough room by trimming the shelves down to add another shelf at 12oz can height. I was still able to keep the bottom shelf high enough for large items like 750ml beer bottles and wine bottles. This will allow me to organize the doors now for larger items that are extra for the house fridge like juice, milk, and also 12oz beer bottles fit better on the door as well.
04-10-2018, 08:38 AM
#314
04-10-2018, 09:21 AM
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That is some serious interference to cause that
04-10-2018, 09:35 AM
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Maybe I need to grow up....Just love to tinker and hey it is more space efficient now
04-10-2018, 02:16 PM
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I was wondering how long it would take someone to comment on that. Surprised it wasn't J.
