1920s vintage bathroom - embrace or gut?
#81
Ex-OEM King
^ That's not bad at all. Pretty reasonable actually. You could get away with less high end finishes and stuff to save some money but if you're going to go, might as well get exactly what you want.
#82
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Yup. I spent way too much time finding good deals on marble tiles, bathroom fixtures, vanity, cast iron tub, etc. if i had let a designer pick out everything i ordered, at the average cost, it would have added at least 5k, plus fees. And i did my own architecturals.
Last edited by ThermonMermon; 11-02-2017 at 10:25 AM.
#83
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Definitely seems very reasonable once you break it all down like that.
#87
Team Owner
What else would they be using? Reusing the hundreds years old wood planks again? Houses are either built of stone/brick/concrete or wood/OSB these days. The OSB is better at keeping the cold and moisture out, as opposed to wood planks with gaps between them. Plus, you'll never see any of the OSB again.. so I ask... what's wrong with it? what should they have used instead?
#89
Team Owner
I've never seen a home built with plywood. Not in Canada, at least. Plywood is used under tiled floors. Exterior of homes, at least here, is literally always OSB. Roofs and walls. There is no inherent benefit using plywood over osb, in such a case.
#91
so they build cheap shit in Canada
#92
Team Owner
Yes, pay more for plywood and the literal zero advantage to it, over OSB
#96
Team Owner
#100
Ex-OEM King
What else would they be using? Reusing the hundreds years old wood planks again? Houses are either built of stone/brick/concrete or wood/OSB these days. The OSB is better at keeping the cold and moisture out, as opposed to wood planks with gaps between them. Plus, you'll never see any of the OSB again.. so I ask... what's wrong with it? what should they have used instead?
Unless used in a potentially wet environment (at which point I question the use of plywood as well), there is literally no reason to use plywood over OSB. It's a lot more expensive and you don't get much out of it. OSB with a good moisture barrier over the top is far more cost effective than plywood.
You use solid mahogany for sheathing and stucco over it? That explains why you drive a Vagon.
#101
Team Owner
Don' use plywood in wet areas. Unless it's pressure treated. But even then...
Otherwise you can use concrete boards etc which are designed to work around moisture.
also, wood in itself has no insulating properties. At all. True story.
the house was originally rotting because of old fashioned construction techniques. OSB lasts forever if done properly (it's not rocket science)
Otherwise you can use concrete boards etc which are designed to work around moisture.
also, wood in itself has no insulating properties. At all. True story.
the house was originally rotting because of old fashioned construction techniques. OSB lasts forever if done properly (it's not rocket science)
#104
Ex-OEM King
That bathroom looks freaking awesome. I love the pattern on the floor.
#106
Team Owner
tile work looks simply bada$$
#107
Safety Car
Thread Starter
thanks. i almost dont want to install the fixtures since it would hide half of the tile goodness. we found a really good deal at Floor & Decor, which had White Carrara polished wall tile for $4.59 PSF, and matching loose honed carrara floor tile ($0.75 ea, for 6x3). I had to make 3 trips back to the store to weed out some of the yellows and darker grays.
The tile guy was just plain nasty. He meticulously spent 4 full days with a helper to layout out the individual tiles.
I dont think my wife is going to use our master bath after this is all done...
The tile guy was just plain nasty. He meticulously spent 4 full days with a helper to layout out the individual tiles.
I dont think my wife is going to use our master bath after this is all done...
#108
Ex-OEM King
thanks. i almost dont want to install the fixtures since it would hide half of the tile goodness. we found a really good deal at Floor & Decor, which had White Carrara polished wall tile for $4.59 PSF, and matching loose honed carrara floor tile ($0.75 ea, for 6x3). I had to make 3 trips back to the store to weed out some of the yellows and darker grays.
The tile guy was just plain nasty. He meticulously spent 4 full days with a helper to layout out the individual tiles.
I dont think my wife is going to use our master bath after this is all done...
The tile guy was just plain nasty. He meticulously spent 4 full days with a helper to layout out the individual tiles.
I dont think my wife is going to use our master bath after this is all done...
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TacoBello (11-28-2017)
#109
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Skylights in. Do you think I should add some beveled window trim around the inner part of each quadrant? I feel the current look is too mismatched to the window. Not sure. Maybe just keep it simple.
#111
Ex-OEM King
Do all of the windows in your house have the trim? If so, then yes.
#112
Team Owner
I have never seen a skylight with them.
#118
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Bathroom looks amazing. Hopefully you can come up with a way to make the skylight not look so modern. The light it gives is great but seems out of place with the rest of the windows right now.
#119
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Went through a ton of different molding types. I think I solved it.
Thoughts on adding millwork around the permiters of each skylight? Have a decent stepped lip with a slight recessed cove.
Thoughts on adding millwork around the permiters of each skylight? Have a decent stepped lip with a slight recessed cove.
#120
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Two cons.
The finished skylight glass openings are 21x28. I would lose 1.5 inches around all sides. Although this would make the aperture closer in width to the existing windows at the landing. And the skylights would be better scaled down in size.
i don’t want to glue the trim to the inner skylight housing itself. So there will be a recessed cove around the skylight housing which I think is about 3 inches deep. This may look odd particularly when full daylight hitting the back of the trim.
The finished skylight glass openings are 21x28. I would lose 1.5 inches around all sides. Although this would make the aperture closer in width to the existing windows at the landing. And the skylights would be better scaled down in size.
i don’t want to glue the trim to the inner skylight housing itself. So there will be a recessed cove around the skylight housing which I think is about 3 inches deep. This may look odd particularly when full daylight hitting the back of the trim.