fusiongt

ok. some of u guyz may know me for the trouble of my HID kit with my local dealer. well today I went to another dealer and spoke to a tech(this guy was into modding cars too). He strongly recommanded NOT to put LED bulbs with 09+ Acuras because of the more complicated ecu design. He mentioned that these led bulbs draw much less current and any left overs will go directly to ECU and mess up keyfob control unit.

bagbklyn

I'm no engineer but this sounds like a load of crap. It's not like the power is like running thoughout the car saying oh I don't have anywhere to go let me go and fry the ECU. Just because your using less current doesn't mean there's more current runningthroughout the system. I think the tech overstepped his boundaries.

Just my

Colin

Could he be unable to correctly describe improper resistance?

DivinDude

Ok this post made me laugh and almost spit out my water. Just because a bulb consumes less power doesn't mean that the 'excess' power will be dropping out of the car somewhere since it has no where to go. Simply put, the circuit will draw less power, be less of a drain on the battery and/or alternator. Done deal.

That being said, there are some circuits in the car that 'monitor' the load of the devices on the circuit to make sure the circuit and devices on that circuit are functioning properly. For instance, if you have a burnt out signal bulb, the flasher will flash more quickly (this used to be accomplished mechanically in the flasher, but I suspect it's been upgraded to be done electronically). My 1981 Mazda used to monitor the brake light bulb load and if it fell below a certain current draw, it would light a dash light to reflect a burnt out brake light.

The long and short of it is: consuming less power on a circuit isn't a bad thing (consuming more can cause an overload and a fuse blow). But if the circuit current load is monitored, you may throw an ECU code (electronics) or have hyperactive signals (flasher bulbs). Either of which would hurt your pride more than your car

pokin

Epic Phailure at attempting to explain Electricity 101... and he is a real tech at the dealer?

Edit:
Or, maybe he explained it differently from what you stated above?

BigWopHH

DivinDude is absolutely correct--consuming less power will have no ill effects on a circuit in and of iteself.

I have to explain a similar issue to computer users all the time. Many think that a 1000W power supply will consume more power than a 500W supply, simply because it has a higher output rating. But the max output has nothing to do with consumption--the components connected to the PSU determine how much power is being consumed.

Same is true of your lamps. They HIDs may consumer less power than the stock bulbs, but that's not a bad thing in and of iteself.

bagbklyn

With your track record you may need to take your car to a different state. First the HID's and now this, are sure it's Acura dealers your going to?

fusiongt

The tech said he already had 2 other customers with vanity, corner, turnsignal LEDs resulted MICU failure. I mean if u guyz wanna take a chance with your led bulbs then that's fine but be sure to add resistors with it or put all the stock bulbs back in when something fails before visiting the dealer.

6SpdTerror

LMFAO!!!! Thats a load of bullocks!

venom550pm

if you put the LED in backwards and short it to ground it will blow up the multiplex! been there done that.

dwest1023

Techs are not electronic techs. They are parts replacers. They do not trouble shoot eletronics. Amps generate heat and less amps is less heat. You will NOT ruin a module with less heat. The ELCM is protected by fuses, which should blow first before any ECM failure.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

I think you were just unlucky and had a short in your wiring somewhere from the factory. It's extremely hard to even intentionally short the multiplexer out by just putting an LED in backwards. Think of it this way, you found out your factory wiring was shorted somewhere and now it's fixed.

djtanveer

actually the same thing happened to me in my 05 honda accord i tried repacing the door light with led and i shorted out the multipex....

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Ok, I'm going to add this quick comment...


When I did my headlights back in July.... I added the newest Switchbacks (60 LED) bulbs from AutoLumination... they looked AWESOME....

the VERY next day. About 9-10 fuses in my car blew from all THREE fuse boxes in my car... some of these fuses included

-Keyless Entry System
-Ignition
-Drivers Side Exterior Lights
-Passenger Side Exterior Lights
-Hazards
-Drivers Side Headlight
-Passenger side headlight
-Main Fan
-Horn

I am not bullshitting either. I panicked, and ran to a couple dealerships (Honda & Acura) to get all the replacement fuses. The Interior Fuses are a new tiny mini-wedge (i think its called micro-fuse) and i had to replace 2 large blade fuses under the hood


no lies..... i removed the switchbacks, and called Autolumination the next day... They told me this was also a common problem with new Corvettes that used their new 60LED... They stated the problem was with the circuitry on the 60LED switchback

They offered me a full refund... i shipped them the bulbs, and the c!@#suckers only refunded me like 60% of my money... When i called again to complain, they pretty much said "too bad"

dwest1023

This proves my point that the fuses will blow before you ruin any ECU. The OP was just told some BS.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

oh yea, of course..... Fuses should almost ALWAYS blow, before any serious electrical damage.... um.... thats THE POINT of having fuses!!!



In electronics and electrical engineering a fuse (from the Latin "fusus" meaning to melt) is a type of sacrificial overcurrent protection device. Its essential component is a metal wire or strip that melts when too much current flows, which interrupts the circuit in which it is connected. Short circuit, overload or device failure is often the reason for excessive current.

A fuse interrupts excessive current (blows) so that further damage by overheating or fire is prevented. Wiring regulations often define a maximum fuse current rating for particular circuits. Overcurrent protection devices are essential in electrical systems to limit threats to human life and property damage. Fuses are selected to allow passage of normal current and of excessive current only for short periods.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Hey, it could be worse....

BMWs have an LCM (Lighting Control Module).... try adding aftermarket HIDs to a BMW, and watch what happens.... its a riot!!

pokin

fusiongt,
Thumbs up 4 d heads up. There may be some legit issues with LED mods. However, it is the tech's explanation that does not add up.

fusiongt

well I looked over the repair invoice and it said "replace MICU, fuses. parts total, $224.xx labor= $459(fockers!).
The 2nd tech I spoke to was kinna cool explaining about modding cars bla bla bla..(he had modded nsx btw!) unlike those older acura line-ups these newer ones got more intergrated system(cheaper to manufacture but expensive for the consumer to fix). and If I really want to have leds then make sure to add resistors too.

fusiongt

so basically LEDbulbs = Ignition system failure.
I'm not a electrition or acura tech so I do not know Y leds cause this failure but he said mine was 3rd case so far.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

I've installed LEDs on countless cars, I can't even begin to tell you how many. You are clearly doing something wrong (I can't see how) or you just have the worst luck. What are the odds the same person blows a multiplexer by putting in an LED bulb to replace a vanity light? Really?

The rest of the people here have it straight, and some of the posters actually know electronics. I do too, but I don't know how to explain it as well. Hell I went to school for this stuff and built plenty of circuits in my time.

acuracee

So has anyone had success with using LEDs? I have installed Luxeon LEDs (from superbrightleds.com) in my front turn signals that color match the HID headlamps pretty well but the "hyperflashing" is getting annoying. And not to add fuel to the fire but I frequently have problems with my remote key fob ever since installing the LEDs. I read elsewhere that replacing the flasher unit in the dash may fix the problem but damned if I can find it or even reach it with minimal deconstruction. Any suggestions?

Pete2010

Sounds like you need resistors to stop the hyperflashing. I don't know how you'd be having problems with the keyfob - that doesn't make sense at all.

CapoTL

No offense to anyone who puts led or whatever, but if you want the led look go buy an Audi. I hate when you try to copy the look of another manufacturer. Just my opinion. Also I think it looks super cheesy.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

^ LED doesnt neccesarily mean the "strips" like Audis...

LED bulbs have a color that matches HIDs more accurately, because its an electric light diode, instead of a halogen bulb burning....

so instead of having a dingy yellowish-white or amber colored turn signal, you can have a bright clear white, red, yellow or orange light.



as for the resistors.. i had absolutely no problems on my 06 TL & 08 TL-S... however, after the experience i posted above.. i am not going to put LEDs or resistors on my 4G... the electrical system is so complex in this car, and i dont feel like screwing with it

acuracee

Thank you Blackura_NY! I'm also afraid of putting resistors in my 4G and I may just put a clear filament bulb and forget LEDs all together. It's kind of a headache with the flashing but the look is very appealing.

acuracee

Hey petec2010, sorry for straying off topic in this forum, but have you had any issues with your H&R sport springs? I'm from the Boston area too and had some concerns about this winter season if I lower my TL. Any snow related issues? or All wheel drive issues? Thanks.

Mr Marco

Agreed.
With a firm background in all things mechanical and electrical, I can state without a doubt that there is currently no evidence that L.E.D. lights have any radio frequency (RF) affect on electronic equipment like an automotive ECU. Misconceptions about what will and will not cause RF interference include everything from neon beer signs to electric typewriters. RF is an electrometric wave that oscillates between audio and infrared. L.E.D.’s are so low in output that the frequency level and amount are not likely to cause ANY kind of issue. However, the F.C.C. really doesn’t give a shit and will not measure the RF from L.E.D.’s. Let alone all those other little emitters like your kids cell phone. The F.C.C. currently states that, “It’s O.K. to trash the spectrum with lots of unlicensed low power devices, singing power lines, chirping power meters, high speed digital logic with femtosecond switching times (I exaggerate, but not by much!), screeching LEDs. We don’t care, and we don’t enforce the law here in Dodge City any longer!” Soooo, It might be the Wi-Fi at your neighbor’s house and not your L.E.D.’s.

dwest1023

After being in Electronics a number of years, I am not sure the OP is not correct about the LEDs. Having looked at the electrical service manual, I can attest to how sophisticated the electrical system is in the new TL . I was going to modify my fog lights to come on with the parking lights, but I found that it will be much easier just to rewire the lights with my own circuit. It was an easy job with my TSX but this Tl with everything connected to a ECU is a different animal.

MyT6MT

Stupid comment of the week goes too... j/k!

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

What happens?

Beeper27

I hate to bring this thread to the top again, but it happened to me a couple days ago. 1:30 AM alarm goes off for no reason...as I am running outside to the car without my glasses...falling down the front steps and picking myself up to go see what happened to the car, there was nothing wrong. The car was locked, no one had hit or anything. Tried to start the car and almost had a heart attack! Every time I stepped on the brake, the hazards would go off. Turned on the headlights and the turned the fog lamp switch on and the hi-beams would go on. Randomly, the windshield wipers would turn on and the washer fluid would spray out. The next morning as I pulled it into my garage, the rearview camera would go off even while I was driving! VERY VERY STRESSED for the past couple days. Took the switchbacks out and then some things returned to normal. After a couple days in the shop, a bunch of fuses being replaced and 400 bucks out of pocket, the car is back to normal. Only thing that is different now is the switchbacks are gone. so HEED THIS WARNING! Be Careful!

I'd also like to say thanks to Blackura_NY for his help!

New2Acura2

Holy Crap! Glad you got it back to normal.

Gen7Milan

iTrader: (1)

The headlights work perfect when the engine is not running, but when the engine is running they flicker constantly and eventually go out.

The car is coded for halogens and is throwing an error because of the 35w draw as opposed to the 55w draw of the halogens.

Beeper27

I mean, I LOVE the look of the switchbacks, and I really wish I could keep them like that...but this whole situation has put me off LEDs.

apdspider

interesting topic.... I have had the switchbacks installed for 2 months now, with no problems... will monitor.

HawkI

Wow! Just stumbled on this thread, and I was seriously considering and basically planning on putting in switchbacks. However, after reading some of the problems people have had I think I will stay away from this one until someone can say without a doubt they have put in switchbacks or other LEDs with no problems over an extended period of time. Love the switchback look but I can't afford to deal with any of the looming drawbacks.

Anyone successfully put in switchbacks? (I know apdspider just said he had but hasn't had them long)

potmilkz

https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-2009-2014-123/working-high-low-drl-smd-bulbs-no-error-signs-ijdmtoy-com-798091/


mines work properly... you just need a resistor...


that guy shouldnt work at acura then lol

BigWopHH

He's right. A resistor is all that should be needed. If the ECU is bugging out because it's detecting too little current flowing into the bulbs, adding a resistor will increase the wattage and level things out.

This is all very confusing though, and I'm not convinced the switchbacks were the root cause of the problem. If the ECU is going to bug out and cause all sorts of problems because too little current is flowing to headlights, what's going to happen to everyone when a stock headlight bulb goes out and it draws no current? Plus, the car was parked and off when the alarm went off.

I'd bet the farm that Beeper27's problem had nothing to do with the switchbacks and were most likely caused by a short-circuit somewhere else. The only way it was the switchbacks would be if they were causing the short.

HawkI

I like that look a lot. Thanks for the info and link to that thread, I'll have to save it for when its time to swap the DRL and possibly the front turn signals to switchbacks.