Valve adjustment

Old 06-10-2019, 12:23 PM
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Valve adjustment

Has anyone on here ever had there valves adjusted on there 4th gen?

i got a 2012 with a 3.5 at 210k miles and itís had a general low sound tick from upper end for about 30k miles. Generally just doesnít sound as smooth as I would expect. Seems like the older J series like the 3.5 in the 04-06 MDX generally always seems smooth. My bud has one with 312k miles and never had them adjusted but his sounds very smooth all though the rpm range

Iím just worried about taking it to a shop and then not doing the work. I spoke to one shop that said itís not really usual for them to need adjusting and thatís what worried me
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:05 PM
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intake loosen over time and exhaust tighten and can cause noise with the J-series. I'd honestly have it done the next time you do timing belt/water pump service and also replace spark plug tube seals too. Shouldn't be more than 2 hours labor + new gaskets.
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Old Yesterday, 10:11 AM
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I adjusted mine at about 150K and found that most of them were a bit loose. Including exhaust which was kind of odd. In my 2006 J32 it was the typical intake/loose and exhaust/tight. Not too loose mind you, only 0.001" - 0.002". The ticking lightened up a bit, since loose valves are usually the case of ticking due to the rocker arm and valve having too much gap.

I also seemed to notice a bit more oomph in engine response. I wasn't expecting it so I don't think it was placebo. It would make a little sense considering loose valves would result in less flow past the valves. Although I don't see how 0.001" - 0.002" would make a difference. Either way, quieted down the engine a bit and the power increase (real or just perceived) was a plus.

The job can get pretty spendy due to the time it takes. With four valves per cylinder, there are 24 valves to adjust. The procedure of measuring and adjusting multiple times isn't a quick process. And some of the valves are a pain to access. And of course, you have to take off the intake manifold, valve covers, put a new valve cover gasket on, turn the crankshaft to get the valves at just the perfect location, etc. etc. So unless you really feel it's worth it, or you're not going to attempt to do it yourself, I'd probably pass. The biggest risk is burnt valves if they're significantly too tight. The contact between the cylinder head and valve helps cool the valve head. Also, if the valve isn't completely closed, combustion gasses can be forced out, which are much hotter than the exhaust gas that normally exits the valve. But I have literally never head of any Honda V6 having burnt valves. I'm sure it's happened but they'd have to be really out of lash on the tight end to be too far open to really cause problems.

And yeah, the ability of a shop to mask a valve adjustment job is really high. First, unless they're way out, engine performance isn't likely to change. And second, they could simply replace the 0W-20 oil with some 5W-30 which would quiet them down enough, due to the higher viscosity oil which would provide a thicker pad between the rocker arm and valve surface. If you have a shop do the job, ask to watch, just because you're curious.
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Old Yesterday, 04:29 PM
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I actually just schedule the service to be done at my Acura dealer since I donít really have any independent Honda shops around me. The one I have basically said he would rather not do it. I understand itís tedious work but I would prefer it done. The Acura dealer said $480 out the door and I get a loaner for the day.

I have actually heard of one case of a 2001 Honda Accord v6 burn a valve. Not sure if it was as simple of neglect or not
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