Mickman

Hey guys,

I am going to be looking into changing my timing belt in the near future. Wanted your advice on parts. Keep in mind I am in Canada and prices are outrageous to go through the dealer for OEM parts.

From what I've gathered, this would be a decent kit to go with (Aisin TKH002) ?

(220CAD + shipping) More Information for AISIN TKH002

Anything else I should be buying and doing while everything is apart? Plugs I am assuming?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Aisin is a major player in OEM parts! cant go wrong with AISIN!

- plugs
- gaskets if any are needed
- thermostat (if needed)
-coolant


umm thats all i can think of at the moment.

Reorge

+1
I'll be due for my timing belt soon and I'm probably going to use the Aisin kit from Rockauto.
The thermostat is a PITA (surrounded by other parts) but I probably use Honda part for that.
Drive belt (it has to be removed anyway)

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I forgot about the drive belt and it's tensioners

Reorge

Oh and I forgot ...
I replace the front main seal.
It's about $10
Need a sela driver or a piece of 2" pipe (Sch 40 is ok, Sch 80 preferred) to drive seal in even and flush.

pandamonium

I am going to tackle this job soon and am trying to compile a lits of parts that i can replace while everything is apart as i do not want something to go bad after i change the belt.
The parts needed so far:
Timing belt
tensioner
water pump
bearings
main seal
thermostat

do i need anything else for this job? thanks for the input!!

'99-6SIC6

The dealership goes with 4 major components for a T-Belt job...

1) Timing Belt (14400-RCA-A01)
2) TIming Belt Tensioner (14520-RCA-A01)
3) Water Pump (19200-RDV-J01)
4) Drive Belt (569925-RV0-A05)

Obviously, if you change the water pump - coolant (OL999-9011) must be added. Anything else that the customer wants or prefers to be changed is completely up to them. This has been the way we've done it for the past 11 years here in Northern VA. (Pohanka Acura / Honda Of Chantilly)

I get calls from independent repair shops about timing belt "kits", but Honda/Acura sells almost everything individually so a "kit" doesn't really exist. Often times, we will quote out the 4 parts above, plus coolant...and often times, the shop will ask for the cam seals as well. I believe many shops are just accustomed to replacing those during a T-Belt job, however we don't include them in our quotes unless the customer wants them. This is standard parts and labor procedure direct from American Honda. Again, other than the 4 parts listed, anything else is up to you. Thanks,

-greg

pandamonium

Thanks for that info. I guess my second question would be that since i am already doing this job what can or should be replaced since all these items are taken off? like what will i open up that i can just replace so that i wont have to go through this process to get through it again? Only the cam seals? or is there other parts that are somewhere back there too? Thanks for the info!!

Ninjamotion

Dont forget coolant! A light coat of “hondabond” to seal the water pump is what i usually do. You may as well pick up front and rear valve cover gaskets if they are leaking.... also spark plugs

Nates NJTL

I was told the gaskets for the power steering should also be replaced as one of the hoses will be disconnected during the timing belt procedure anyhow. Am told noise when moving the steering wheel is due to gasket failing and air getting into the line.

dregsfan

^^^ What? The 4G has electric power steering.

MarcoNorthPolo

Yeah, I’d take anything that person says with a grain of salt from now on.

mossman77

I believe the recommendation is to replace cam seals every two timing belts.

Do the cap and rotor while you're in there

jutes85

I just did this job last month.

You will absolutely need a crank pully removal tool, no question about it. That fukin bolt is on there at 180ft/lbs. Soak that bolt with some liquid wrench or whatever else for about a week prior to doing the job. The bolt will still be a PITA to remove. I had a long extension resting on a jack stand while I literally stood on a 3ft breaker bar. The crank bolt is probably 40% of the job.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

The "blip" method works pretty well by using a breaker bar (or even ordinary good quality ratchet) attached to the crank pulley bolt then starting the engine. The starter failed to crank the first 8 times before it came off. Essentially the same as trying to start a seized engine. Attempt 9 worked though Don't know if I did any damage to the starter......