Paid off my TL! Approaching 90k mileage, anticipated costs going forward?
Used some of my bonus money to finally pay off my TL. I did it about 1.5 years early. Sucked, but it was the "responsible" thing to do. Looking into the future, I'm curious as to what my potential upcoming maintenance costs may be given that I am approaching 90k miles. I know that there is a lot of speculation as to if/when you should do timing belt/water pump. I will say that I don't trust my dealer (where I bought my car), and that for the most part, I will be defaulting to what my maintenance minder tells me to do. I also know that I'll have to throw on new tires, likely this summer or so... ugh...
Open to suggestions and thoughts otherwise as to helpful guidance and expectations on out of pocket costs for necessary and/or preventive maintenance to keep my TL running until the wheels fall off! |
Congratulations on paying off your car! The best car is one that's paid for. As far as maintenance items go, consider your local Honda dealer over the Acura dealership. They typically provide the same services for less money and most of them employee Honda certified mechanics.
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Timing belt is the most costly at 105K. Not sure about the speculation that you mentioned around the timing belt. For me personally, this is not speculation. REPLACE IT! If it breaks, you'll need another bonus check to repair the damage! :thumbsdown:
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If you haven’t drained and filled the transmission yet, watch out you might have to change the front External AT Filter. It clogs. Had it happen to me. Lucky paying it off! I got 5 more years with mine. |
This is what I've done since 90K miles (@ nearly 150k now) Costs are parts only; assuming you do the work yourself:
Magnefine transmission fluid filter - $25 x 3 (I change mine every 15K miles or so): $100. It's often cheaper to get this from the dealer than to pay for shipping. You can often get a discount if you buy a case. Coolant flush - Two 5qt jugs of Typ2 "Blue" Honda Coolant - $40 Moog Tie Rod outer ends - Passenger side and Drivers side: $60 for both sides Front Shock Absorbers - 51620-TK4-A04 and 51610-TK4-A04: $350 for both sides Timing belt kit - $200. Recommend purchasing OEM parts (not "OE") and replacing everything (belt, tensioner, water pump and gasket, idler pulley) Brake rotors and pads - Centric Cryo-Treated rotors, Akebono Pads Brake lines flush: 500mL Motul Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid Cabin air filter - Fram $25 - Honda/Acura $25 Oil Changes - Every 8K miles or so. 7 changes in the last 60k miles @ $35 each ($250). Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 and Mobil 1 M1-104 filter. I use 5W-30 but the car calls for 5W-20. Also, I use the M1-104 while the car calls for the M1-101. The reason for this is the slightly better protection of 5W-30 and higher filter media capacity of the M1-104 filter. That's about it. For now :run: Also, some of those part numbers will be different for you since you have a SH-AWD. Mine is FWD. Shock absorbers I believe are different as well as Brake pads/rotors. |
losiglow that is a great list. Thanks man.
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Originally Posted by losiglow
(Post 16209293)
This is what I've done since 90K miles (@ nearly 150k now) Costs are parts only; assuming you do the work yourself:
Magnefine transmission fluid filter - $25 Honda DW1 ATF x 3 (I change mine every 15K miles or so): $100. It's often cheaper to get this from the dealer than to pay for shipping. You can often get a discount if you buy a case. Coolant flush - Two 5qt jugs of Typ2 "Blue" Honda Coolant - $40 Moog Tie Rod outer ends - Passenger side and Drivers side: $60 for both sides Front Shock Absorbers - 51620-TK4-A04 and 51610-TK4-A04: $350 for both sides Timing belt kit - $200. Recommend purchasing OEM parts (not "OE") and replacing everything (belt, tensioner, water pump and gasket, idler pulley) Brake rotors and pads - Centric Cryo-Treated rotors, Akebono Pads Brake lines flush: 500mL Motul Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid Cabin air filter - Fram $25 Air intake filter - Honda/Acura $25 Oil Changes - Every 8K miles or so. 7 changes in the last 60k miles @ $35 each ($250). Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 and Mobil 1 M1-104 filter. I use 5W-30 but the car calls for 5W-20. Also, I use the M1-104 while the car calls for the M1-101. The reason for this is the slightly better protection of 5W-30 and higher filter media capacity of the M1-104 filter. That's about it. For now :run: Also, some of those part numbers will be different for you since you have a SH-AWD. Mine is FWD. Shock absorbers I believe are different as well as Brake pads/rotors. Is there a specific reason you changed the tie rod ends? Just being pro-active or did yours fail? I hear an occasional clicking when turning sharp at low speeds and I am hoping these are the culprit. |
Originally Posted by alxhastngs
(Post 16212921)
Fantastic list! Looking to do much of this soon as well as I am at 95k.
Is there a specific reason you changed the tie rod ends? Just being pro-active or did yours fail? I hear an occasional clicking when turning sharp at low speeds and I am hoping these are the culprit. I probably didn't need to replace them though. The joints were still in great shape. I inspected all the other suspension components and everything looks good. Including the driveshafts. I've had a few Honda/Acura's with the CV joints going out but so far this one's been solid. Knock on wood. |
Timing belt, water pump, tensioner ran me 1,000 before tax @ Acura. Did the spark plugs myself which ran me 70, I did all the fluids myself as well (rear diff, transfer case, and tranny) which was around 100 all together @ Acura. Next on the list is doing the valve lash adjustment. Currently at 116k on my 09 TL SH-AWD. Congrats on the payoff. I still have 10 left from buying used 2 years ago. I might just bite the bullet and take care of it this Summer.
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My 2012 has 140K miles. You need to do the timing belt change at 105-110K miles. I paid $1100 dollars at a reputable non-dealer shop. But this included new spark plugs and water pump and coolant change out. It also included the timing chain tensioners and cam/crank shaft seals. I thought the seals was overkill but there are youtube videos on gen 3 TLs where folks were replacing the seals because they started leaking at ~ 150K miles. This problem is rare.
I drain and refill the auto trans fluid every other oil change starting at 80K miles.. The only other problem I have had is with the door lock actuators. I replaced all 4 as 2 had failed and the other two were making strange sounds when actuated at ~120k miles. I suggest you disable the auto door lock/unlock function for your car if not already done. Don't do that if you have safety concerns where you live. This will hopefully add some life to yours. This is a Honda/Acura problem with many youtube videos on how to do this.This cost ~$200 dollars in parts (4 actuators) and a lot of cussing for about 6-7 hours. Honda/Acura will charge you ~$200 dollars per actuator (parts and labor). Really no other problems. Love the car. Will probably change out the radiator prior to 180 K as I have had the plastic radiators fail at ~200K miles for other cars I have owned. |
Originally Posted by dvd2012tl
(Post 16216504)
My 2012 has 140K miles. You need to do the timing belt change at 105-110K miles. I paid $1100 dollars at a reputable non-dealer shop. But this included new spark plugs and water pump and coolant change out. It also included the timing chain tensioners and cam/crank shaft seals. I thought the seals was overkill but there are youtube videos on gen 3 TLs where folks were replacing the seals because they started leaking at ~ 150K miles. This problem is rare.
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Originally Posted by ressling
(Post 16207689)
Used some of my bonus money to finally pay off my TL. I did it about 1.5 years early. Sucked, but it was the "responsible" thing to do. Looking into the future, I'm curious as to what my potential upcoming maintenance costs may be given that I am approaching 90k miles. I know that there is a lot of speculation as to if/when you should do timing belt/water pump. I will say that I don't trust my dealer (where I bought my car), and that for the most part, I will be defaulting to what my maintenance minder tells me to do. I also know that I'll have to throw on new tires, likely this summer or so... ugh...
Open to suggestions and thoughts otherwise as to helpful guidance and expectations on out of pocket costs for necessary and/or preventive maintenance to keep my TL running until the wheels fall off! |
Originally Posted by Nostradamus
(Post 16216561)
Just disconnect the blue tooth if that happens.
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What about the battery? How long do the factory batteries usually last? Thank you
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Originally Posted by kcinac
(Post 16218382)
What about the battery? How long do the factory batteries usually last? Thank you
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
(Post 16218386)
It often depends upon the health of the rest of the electronics in your car. Some cars seem to eat a battery every six months, other cars go a few years, still other cars like my 2001 Accord went, get this, 9 years and 10 months.
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Thank you
It is good to know I have some more time with the battery. When the time comes I will look at AGM replacements. Thank you |
Originally Posted by 87Sam87
(Post 16218400)
i agree. I believed mine lasted 85-90k. I believe recommendation is an AGM type battery. I’m running a 600 watt sub with no dimming. Battery ran me about 200 for a diehard. |
Originally Posted by kcinac
(Post 16218382)
What about the battery? How long do the factory batteries usually last? Thank you
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