lltfly

First time using the Amsoil oil in my 12 TL, will see how it runs differently from Mobil 1 annual protection.
Actually, I have bought the Motul 8100 100% synthetic, but I left the oil in the office. so Sunday I decided to pick up Amsoil from a local retailer. they only have 3 0w20 signature seris left. so I mix 1.5 quarts Amsoil OE with 3 quarts signature.
should not be an issue mixing 0w20 signature with 0w20 OE together?

btw the Amsoil is very expensive~~~~. 13 a quart. I paid 38 dollars for 5L jar for the Motul 8100 series. assume Motul 8100 is same level as Amsoil signature?

Jakes_tl

How often do you change your oil / filter? What oil filter did you use?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

most likely you wont feel any difference, because those differences happen on a molecular level.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

I've never felt any difference when going with different oil but sometimes you'll see a difference in oil consumption or engine sound.

I considered Amsoil once but felt it was overkill for this car. Let us know how it goes after a few thousand miles.

lltfly

Mobil 1 annual protection: 8000 miles on 2017 mazda 6 with moibl 1 extended filter, TL 5000 miles with honda filter
Motul: will do 8000 miles on mazda 6 also(mobil1 extended life filter). just changed two weeks ago
Amsoi signature with Wix filter: will do 6000 + on TL.

actually I do notice the sound difference on the 2.5 skyactiv engine cold start(this engine is very loud at cold start), Motul is a bit quieter than Mobil 1 annual . could be subjective.
I know I am a little bit overkill, but I feel good when I can put good oil in the engine and keep it fresh

Jakes_tl

With these OCI you will be fine with any synthetic oil, Amsoil is great oil but it is overkill for most people.

thoiboi

guess you can give us a long term review to see if it was worth the price difference.. at that price, I could just do 3 M1 oil changes at SUPER conservative 3K oil change intervals..

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

The thing about your numbers is they are all SWAG and zero science. Do what you wish with your engines, but the things you're doing will do nothing to add to the life of your engine.

Kinuto

kjpantano

When my TL was burning oil I noticed that it slowed down when I first switched to Amsoil compared to Mobil 1

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

It probably would have slowed down with Castrol or even one of the Mobil 1 offerings for older engine. I know lots of folks want to believe it, but there really is nothing magic or special about Scamzoil.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

Was the Amsoil the same viscosity? If it was heavier then it was probably due to that rather than anything special about the oil. I also noticed a slight reduction in oil consumption when switching away from Mobil 1, but it was pretty insignificant since the 3.5L consumes very little oil. Went from 1/4 quart in 5000 miles to 0. Same viscosity but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum instead of Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

I'd be willing to bet that Amsoil may be marginally better for super hardcore racing applications as compared to an off the shelf mainstream synthetic. And the logic would seem to imply that if it were somehow better for tricked out racing engines, that it would be that much better for a standard car engine. However, Honda and Acura prescribe regular old dyno oil for this engine. It's a <7000 RPM redline engine with a 12 - 12.5 compression ratio. Definitely not hardcore. Obviously synthetic is a good step up for any car let alone this one. And since "consumer grade" synthetic is relatively cheap now-a-days it's kind of a no brainer in my book. Heck, I'd use synthetic in a Toyota Corolla or Hyundai Elantra if I owned one. But I think when pushing it to these boutique synthetics like Amsoil and Redline, you start to see significant diminishing returns. Only a proper analysis by a lab like Blackstone could really tell the story. And even then, only part of it based on the metals and what not that they see in the oil. I'm all about using good quality fluids and changing a bit more frequently than recommended but only when the cost is reasonable. A 5 qt. change with Amsoil is probably a good $40 more than even the best synthetic you'll pick up at Walmart of which will likely provide 98% of whatever protection that Amsoil does. I love my car but not enough to pay that much extra for what I'd bet is a pretty small difference in longevity and protection. If anything, I'd go with "regular" synthetic and spend the extra $40 per oil change on a 3x3 flush of the automatic transmission. That's the weak link on these cars. My AT is still operating surprisingly well after 175K miles, but I still bet that if I kept the car until it's no longer economically feasible to repair vs. replace, that it will be due to transmission trouble rather than the engine.

AlbinLee

Honestly I just buy whatever full synthetic is least expensive or on sale at the time. I have used M1, RP, Castrol, Pennzoil, and Valvoline over the years. Never noticed a difference. Only requirement I have is that I always use a K&N Gold oil filter 104 size and replace the bolt/washer each time.

Using this strategy, I have personally driven a 98 RL over 300K miles. Then I had a 3G TL I drove from 30K to 65K. Just bought a 4G TL last month with 90K, so onwards and upwards!

BTW none of these vehicles ever burned oil or showed signs of abnormal engine wear. Just preventative maintenance!

I would venture to guess that most modern synthetics have some variation of proprietary detergent/additives. They all seem to do pretty well IMO.

kjpantano

kjpantano

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

I think you're seeing causality where there is none; there is nothing special about Amsoil, errr, except it's high price.