Intake Resonator Removed
10-03-2010, 01:52 PM
#1
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
Intake Resonator Removed
So I was removing my front bumper to get the grill off for the paint shop. While I was there I saw this little box (resonator) and thought I should remove it. I have done that to my previous TL and pretty much every car that I have had that has a resonator. Lets just say the resonator have gotten ridiculously hard to remove. I spent two hours trying to get this damn thing out and there is no way in hell its ever going back in.
I though for sure it would have been an easy process but nope. I had to remove the intake box, removed the battery thinking that I could remove the battery tray, then realized that the battery tray removal would take an additional hour by itself. So I strong armed the damn ducting out, removed the resonator, put everything back together and took it for a drive.
Im sure your next question is "was it worth it?" Well yes and no. The intake sounds great now, and its equivalent to the Takeda intake sound, but the time spent removing it and the frustration that set in half way through makes it not worth it.
Im glad its out and I get to enjoy the growl of the egine and it takes away the frustration from the removal.
So if you guys want to remove the resonator it will change the sound of the engine just be prepared for a retarded battle against some pretty stiff plastic
I though for sure it would have been an easy process but nope. I had to remove the intake box, removed the battery thinking that I could remove the battery tray, then realized that the battery tray removal would take an additional hour by itself. So I strong armed the damn ducting out, removed the resonator, put everything back together and took it for a drive.
Im sure your next question is "was it worth it?" Well yes and no. The intake sounds great now, and its equivalent to the Takeda intake sound, but the time spent removing it and the frustration that set in half way through makes it not worth it.
Im glad its out and I get to enjoy the growl of the egine and it takes away the frustration from the removal.
So if you guys want to remove the resonator it will change the sound of the engine just be prepared for a retarded battle against some pretty stiff plastic
10-04-2010, 12:18 AM
#3
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
Actually yes. As weird as it may sound, I had a two hour drive tonight and the thorttle response is a lot better. I know its not my imagination because my girlfriend noticed when I stepped on it to pass a car, it reacted a hell of a lot better than before. Im now more glad that I did it lol./
10-04-2010, 09:08 PM
#4
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
This is where the resonator connects to the ducting. I reinstalled the resonator only because it holds the brake ducting and there is no way the duct would stay in pace without the resonator. The resonator does not block any air or have any adverse affect on the intake when the ducting is removed.
This is how it looks when you open your hood and you see the intake scoop sitting there. The ducting goes under the battery and try and loops out to the side in front of the wheel well then back up to the air box.
Looks a little restrictive to me
This is how it looks when you open your hood and you see the intake scoop sitting there. The ducting goes under the battery and try and loops out to the side in front of the wheel well then back up to the air box.
Looks a little restrictive to me
10-05-2010, 07:30 AM
#5
Intermediate
Did you say you ended up re-installing the resonator?
My car is actually in the body shop to repair some front end damage. They called and told me that the resonator was cracked and they would have to replace it. I'm wondering now if I should just tell them to remove it :-P
My car is actually in the body shop to repair some front end damage. They called and told me that the resonator was cracked and they would have to replace it. I'm wondering now if I should just tell them to remove it :-P
10-05-2010, 08:49 AM
#6
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
I removed the resonator ducting which completely removed any air going through the resonator to the intake system. The resonator is still there because it holds the brake ducting in place. If it werent for that I would have removed the resonator completely. I hope this makes sense.
10-05-2010, 10:03 AM
#7
I did this awhile ago. 
My thread shows the picture of part of the resonator bolted back in to hold the brake duct, but it's disconnected from the intake tubing.
https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-295/cold-air-intake-diy-awd-728069/
My thread shows the picture of part of the resonator bolted back in to hold the brake duct, but it's disconnected from the intake tubing.
https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-295/cold-air-intake-diy-awd-728069/
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10-05-2010, 11:41 AM
#8
Nice pics! Sounds like a huge pain in the ass to remove. If you go for the Takeda intake instead, do you leave all that ducting in place?
10-05-2010, 12:16 PM
#9
10-05-2010, 02:18 PM
#13
Is there a way to just remove/cut a portion of the intake, or do I need to remove the bumper to get to it. I'm not sold on the aftermarket intake because what I've read said hp seemed to go down. Looks like gutting the stock intake is the best way to go.
10-05-2010, 08:04 PM
#14
Intermediate
I'm curious, where did you read this? I've only read positive things about the Takeda intake. Why would HP go down on a less restrictive intake?
10-05-2010, 09:52 PM
#15
^^^^Here you go:
Just installed my takeda and I must say the instructions could have been a bit better. It would have been nice if the instructions had said remove, "metal coolant line". I did not realize this until near the end of the install. Cold have saved 30min of time. I also recommend that you use a screwdriver to help "Push" the hoses off.
As been already said, the sound is nice. Adds a bit of excitement to the driving experience.
Hard for me to say if there is any HP improvement since I have very little seat time in my TL. It does appear my gas mileage has improved. I like the fact that normal driving the car is still very quit. I had some concerns there.
As been already said, the sound is nice. Adds a bit of excitement to the driving experience.
Hard for me to say if there is any HP improvement since I have very little seat time in my TL. It does appear my gas mileage has improved. I like the fact that normal driving the car is still very quit. I had some concerns there.
While I agree it seems like an "expensive mod" for the hp gain, there is a benefit by getting a spacer. I believe excelerate actually took a 3G to the dyno before and after, and it did show a minor (few HP) improvement. It's not a zero benefit, but there are things that can give you much more HP per $$
Has anyone actually dyno'd their car with this intake yet? I think this intake makes our cars run too rich and actually loses some power.
I have a buddy that has the same exact intake on his 09 Accord V6 Sedan and when we dyno'd his car, it ran too rich and he actually lost power. I'm thinking this might be an issue with our cars also because I'm assuming that we have the same MAF sensor. His MAF sensor was detecting too much air coming into the engine and didn't know what to do so it just started dumping fuel into the engine hoping to correct it which causes the car to run rich. Just a thought, I dont have anything to back this up with so I might be wrong.
I have a buddy that has the same exact intake on his 09 Accord V6 Sedan and when we dyno'd his car, it ran too rich and he actually lost power. I'm thinking this might be an issue with our cars also because I'm assuming that we have the same MAF sensor. His MAF sensor was detecting too much air coming into the engine and didn't know what to do so it just started dumping fuel into the engine hoping to correct it which causes the car to run rich. Just a thought, I dont have anything to back this up with so I might be wrong.
I agree with you. I installed the Takeda intake to my AWD, to me and my friend, except the intake will makes louder noise when pass 4000 or 5000rpm, seriously we didn't feel any different to the stock box filter with a K&N air filter changed....also it actually feel slower at the 1 and 2 gears.....
I also brought the car to a race track again once after I installed the Takeda intake and there were absolutely no big different to a K&N air filter...
I may have to bring the car to my friend shop to have an ECU tune up to see can they get this right....
I also brought the car to a race track again once after I installed the Takeda intake and there were absolutely no big different to a K&N air filter...
I may have to bring the car to my friend shop to have an ECU tune up to see can they get this right....
Keep us informed of your results. I was wondering the same thing. The Takeda intake was great at first, even got a small MPG increase but after 10 months, my car now have the same MPG in D or S mode while driving in the city and my MPG decreased by about 1 MPG (D mode went from 18 down to 16 and S mode went from 16.5-17 dwon to 16).
Highway mileage stayed the same for some unknown reason.
I'm curious to know your experience as I was wondering if someone made controlled runs with the Takeda intake (not dyno but actual 1/4 mile or something similar) to see if there was some real, measurable gains.
I would really like to know if there's a way of tuning the ECU to return to what it was just after the install, that would be great.
Highway mileage stayed the same for some unknown reason.
I'm curious to know your experience as I was wondering if someone made controlled runs with the Takeda intake (not dyno but actual 1/4 mile or something similar) to see if there was some real, measurable gains.
I would really like to know if there's a way of tuning the ECU to return to what it was just after the install, that would be great.
Our cars might be different than the accords but when my buddy had the Takeda intake on his car, there wasnt any codes that came up or anything. But the dyno graphs proved that his car ran too rich.
We swamped his intake back to the stock airbox and after we let the ECU adjust for a day or so, it made a HUGE difference. His car got noticeably quicker than before.
We swamped his intake back to the stock airbox and after we let the ECU adjust for a day or so, it made a HUGE difference. His car got noticeably quicker than before.
I had to uninstall the Takeda intake because the check engine light keeps coming on I think there were too much air coming in for the MAF to handle. I install the factory intake back, took it to the dealer to scan but they did not find a code.
The check engine light hasn't come on since the car even runs better.
The check engine light hasn't come on since the car even runs better.
10-06-2010, 07:22 AM
#16
Intermediate
Thanks Marco. The MAF sensor issue is a real possibility. The ECU is tuned for factory parts so changing the intake could feasibly have a negative effect. However, I would tend to think Acura designed this intake not for straight performance, but as a compromise between performance and ride quality (not too loud). I would expect a less restrictive intake to provide more power, equal power, but definitely not less power. Strange. Really someone needs to dyno this thing properly before and after. I know that is time consuming and expensive though. Oh well....
10-06-2010, 11:32 AM
#17
^ Agreed, The twisty baffles of that intake are meant to tame that roar to a whoosh. I never could understand how those engineers come up with such restrictive intakes and exhausts. Check out this down-pipe (top) on our RDX's:
12-16-2014, 12:25 PM
#19
Reviving this thread....
So to remove resonator DUCTING ONLY (or to cut it so that resonator box is no longer directly attached) do you have to remove the bumper? It seems that nothing really needs to be removed from the cars intake system except to either remove the ducting (between resonator box and upper intake) or to cut it and potentially add in a velocity stack.
So to remove resonator DUCTING ONLY (or to cut it so that resonator box is no longer directly attached) do you have to remove the bumper? It seems that nothing really needs to be removed from the cars intake system except to either remove the ducting (between resonator box and upper intake) or to cut it and potentially add in a velocity stack.
12-17-2014, 08:23 AM
#23
Source: https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...8s-19s-911877/
12-18-2014, 08:10 AM
#26
lol insane... not sure I like the sound of that...I want to add a little more growl so it sounds meaner. But I don't want my bluetooth calls to suffer if it's stupidly loud.
What's it like up to 3500 rpm? Noticeable difference?
Anyone in Southern Ontario have one installed? I'd love to hear it.
What's it like up to 3500 rpm? Noticeable difference?
Anyone in Southern Ontario have one installed? I'd love to hear it.
12-18-2014, 08:37 AM
#28
lol insane... not sure I like the sound of that...I want to add a little more growl so it sounds meaner. But I don't want my bluetooth calls to suffer if it's stupidly loud.
What's it like up to 3500 rpm? Noticeable difference?
Anyone in Southern Ontario have one installed? I'd love to hear it.
What's it like up to 3500 rpm? Noticeable difference?
Anyone in Southern Ontario have one installed? I'd love to hear it.
12-18-2014, 11:21 AM
#30
Love Guru
12-18-2014, 09:14 PM
#31
Someone above said that Takeda considers this a cold air intake,it is not. The stock resonator tube that remains in place after installation of the Takeda will allow outside air into the engine compartment, being that it is not enclosed around the filter it will never be effective as a true cold air intake like the IceBox.
Two things i noticed when i had the Takeda were.......engine would bog down at rpm over 6k and during warm temperature the car would lose power,most likely to heat soak.After removing the Takeda and going back to the stock intake those issues were resolved and the car pulled better.
I believe many people associate the growl from the Takeda with an increase in performance,something similar to a placebo effect of having a loud exhaust.
I currently have the IceBox and if i had to make the choice again i would definitely go with the IceBox again or stay stock.Others may have a different experience, i am just sharing mine.
Two things i noticed when i had the Takeda were.......engine would bog down at rpm over 6k and during warm temperature the car would lose power,most likely to heat soak.After removing the Takeda and going back to the stock intake those issues were resolved and the car pulled better.
I believe many people associate the growl from the Takeda with an increase in performance,something similar to a placebo effect of having a loud exhaust.
I currently have the IceBox and if i had to make the choice again i would definitely go with the IceBox again or stay stock.Others may have a different experience, i am just sharing mine.
12-18-2014, 09:21 PM
#32
Someone above said that Takeda considers this a cold air intake,it is not. The stock resonator tube that remains in place after installation of the Takeda will allow outside air into the engine compartment, being that it is not enclosed around the filter it will never be effective as a true cold air intake like the IceBox.
Two things i noticed when i had the Takeda were.......engine would bog down at rpm over 6k and during warm temperature the car would lose power,most likely to heat soak.After removing the Takeda and going back to the stock intake those issues were resolved and the car pulled better.
I believe many people associate the growl from the Takeda with an increase in performance,something similar to a placebo effect of having a loud exhaust.
I currently have the IceBox and if i had to make the choice again i would definitely go with the IceBox again or stay stock.Others may have a different experience, i am just sharing mine.
Two things i noticed when i had the Takeda were.......engine would bog down at rpm over 6k and during warm temperature the car would lose power,most likely to heat soak.After removing the Takeda and going back to the stock intake those issues were resolved and the car pulled better.
I believe many people associate the growl from the Takeda with an increase in performance,something similar to a placebo effect of having a loud exhaust.
I currently have the IceBox and if i had to make the choice again i would definitely go with the IceBox again or stay stock.Others may have a different experience, i am just sharing mine.
12-19-2014, 05:09 AM
#33
The removal of the stock restrictive intake resonators, replaced by the larger diameter tubing and less restrictive IceBox opens up the engine nicely.
12-19-2014, 08:33 AM
#34
godamnit I'm too rookie for this stuff.
I'd love a relatively inexpensive mod (under $1K) that could add A BIT of sound when I rip it - not when I'm driving nice (under 3000RPM).
Losing ANY performance is a big minus.
Adding performance not a huge deal... I doubt I'd notice 5HP anyway.
I'd love a relatively inexpensive mod (under $1K) that could add A BIT of sound when I rip it - not when I'm driving nice (under 3000RPM).
Losing ANY performance is a big minus.
Adding performance not a huge deal... I doubt I'd notice 5HP anyway.
12-19-2014, 08:41 AM
#35
Typically a less restrictive intake will cause a VERY slight loss of low end power with a decent upper RPM gain. At the end of the day I think most people buy intakes because they're fun to install, sound cool, and give you a little extra pep during spirited driving. I just ordered one for my car and I will give a dead honest review on it after install (it should arrive next Tuesday).
12-19-2014, 08:56 AM
#36
Typically a less restrictive intake will cause a VERY slight loss of low end power with a decent upper RPM gain. At the end of the day I think most people buy intakes because they're fun to install, sound cool, and give you a little extra pep during spirited driving. I just ordered one for my car and I will give a dead honest review on it after install (it should arrive next Tuesday).
12-19-2014, 09:08 AM
#37
Yes I'll install it myself, I'm in Canada so I bought from a Canadian supplier to avoid customs charges. Total cost was $290 CND or $250 USD including tax and shipping. I think a couple suppliers in the US sell it pretty low, I saw it listed at $180 USD on one site (not including tax/shipping of course).
12-19-2014, 09:53 AM
#38
godamnit I'm too rookie for this stuff.
I'd love a relatively inexpensive mod (under $1K) that could add A BIT of sound when I rip it - not when I'm driving nice (under 3000RPM).
Losing ANY performance is a big minus.
Adding performance not a huge deal... I doubt I'd notice 5HP anyway.
I'd love a relatively inexpensive mod (under $1K) that could add A BIT of sound when I rip it - not when I'm driving nice (under 3000RPM).
Losing ANY performance is a big minus.
Adding performance not a huge deal... I doubt I'd notice 5HP anyway.
My biggest issue with it was during the summer months when it got hot, humid and muggy. The car lost power, you would not notice it it the morning due to the cooler temp but doing the same drive in the afternoon it was noticeable. Stock I had no issues.
The other difference between the IceBox an the Takeda is where it draws air from. The Icebox tubing runs to the side of the car just behind the bumper/ skirt area. The stock resonator which the Takeda get some extra air from is at the front by the grille area, IMO the location for the IceBox is better for cooler air.
12-19-2014, 10:22 AM
#39
What "Wreck" mentioned is correct. During normal / regular driving you will not even know you have an intake, open the throttle and the Takeda does sound awesome , not intrusive at all.
My biggest issue with it was during the summer months when it got hot, humid and muggy. The car lost power, you would not notice it it the morning due to the cooler temp but doing the same drive in the afternoon it was noticeable. Stock I had no issues.
The other difference between the IceBox an the Takeda is where it draws air from. The Icebox tubing runs to the side of the car just behind the bumper/ skirt area. The stock resonator which the Takeda get some extra air from is at the front by the grille area, IMO the location for the IceBox is better for cooler air.
My biggest issue with it was during the summer months when it got hot, humid and muggy. The car lost power, you would not notice it it the morning due to the cooler temp but doing the same drive in the afternoon it was noticeable. Stock I had no issues.
The other difference between the IceBox an the Takeda is where it draws air from. The Icebox tubing runs to the side of the car just behind the bumper/ skirt area. The stock resonator which the Takeda get some extra air from is at the front by the grille area, IMO the location for the IceBox is better for cooler air.
- Long J Pipe with cat delete ~ $425-$475
- CT Icebox ~ $495-$525
- Lightweight crank pulley ~ $200
So roughly $1,200.
I picked up Icebox and J Pipe from the BM.
You might pick up 12whp, maybe 20whp... that is a hotly debated topic here.
I think the J Pipe and Icebox have little to no downside. With J Pipe, I think the car just drives better (has a nice tone with stock piping) and pulls to redline with much more authority.
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