How I replaced my 2013 TL's front brakes/rotors for under $200
03-04-2016, 05:09 PM
#1
How I replaced my 2013 TL's front brakes/rotors for under $200
I had started noticing a vibration from the front wheels when I braked when going over 50 mph. I just got the car CPO Jan 2016 and have been having second thoughts about the Acura "certification process". Apparently the techs had noticed this during the certification process as evident on the 150+ point inspection sheet but decided not to do anything about it!
Anyway when I took it back, the dealer resurfaced my front rotors and this seemed to work for about 2 weeks and then it started to come back slightly and it bothered me everytime I braked.
I didn't want to waste more time at this dealer and decided to order some stop tech rotors online. Found a great deal on Autoanything for under $200 shipped for stop tech slotted front rotors and posi quiet ceramic pads.
I have never changed the brakes let alone rotors by myself on any car before. I saw a few videos on youtube and thought I would give it a go.
Started collecting the needed tools including impact screwdriver, jack stands, breaker bar, 17 mm socket for caliper and 3/4 inch socket for caliper bracket bolts, brake lube, antiseize lube, 32 oz hammer, 4 or 6 inch C clamp and one free Saturday.
Here is my how to replace front rotors/pads for beginners like myself guide:
1. Park the car on level ground with the hand brake on and break the lug nuts loose using the tools in the trunk. Using the cars jack, jack it up enough to slide in the jack stands on each side.
2. Take off the wheels and turn the steering so you have more room to work behind the calipers on each side (eg. turn steering to left to work on drivers side).
3. Use a 17 mm socket in a breaker bar to take off the caliper bolts. Place the caliper somewhere safe without stressing the brake lines. (I used this opportunity to clean off the calipers with a wire brush, taped off the surroundings with newspaper and masked the rubber bushings on the caliper and hit it with duplicolor sliver hi temp caliper paint and it really made it pop).
4. This is the hardest step. There are 2 annoying rotor screws holding the rotors in place which will be a pain to remove. I applied some anti seize lube to the screw head, waited a few mins and then used an impact screw driver and 32 oz hammer to wack it 3-5 times and it worked like a charm. It is very important to apply an anticlockwise turning action to the impact screwdriver while you are wacking it otherwise it will not work. If you are not able to remove the rotor screws, no point going any further and you should put everything back together again and rethink your strategy. I had to abandon ship 2 times before I finally succeeded the third time.
5. Slide off the caliper and remove the old brake pads and shims. Open the hood and unscrew the brake oil cylinder cover. Use a 4 inch or bigger c clamp ($3 at walmart) and the old brake pad to push the caliper piston back in gently and slowly. Some brake fluid will overflow from the master cylinder you just uncovered.
6. Apply a 3/4 inch socket to breaker bar and remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper frame. This will require some elbow grease.
7. Use the hammer to wack the rotor hat at the top and bottom, left and right to loosen the rotor so that you can wriggle it off the hub.
8. Open your brand new stop tech rotors box and use the one marked L for the drivers side. Hit the front and back with brake clean and wipe off with a clean rag. Slide new rotor back on hub. (its a good idea to make sure your old rotors and the new ones are the same size by placing them on top of each other first)
9. Put a dab of antiseize on the rotor screws and screw back in. Do not over tighten these.
10. Put the caliper frame back on and apply 2 drops of BLUE threadlocker to each bolt before inserting them in and tighten them as much as you can using the breaker bar. You don't want these guys to loosen off while you are driving.
11. Place the new brake pad shims into caliper. Use permatex brake lube on the brake pads where they will make contact with the shims. I did not need to lube the back of the brake pads and I have heard no squeaks so far.
12. At this stage its worth checking to see if the brake pins slide back and forth in the rubber bushings of the caliper. If you need to relube the pins for the love of God, DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN SILICONE PASTE. REGULAR BRAKE GREASE WILL EAT YOUR BUSHINGS AND CAUSE YOUR CALIPERS TO FREEZE OVER TIME.
13. Tighten the brake caliper 17 mm bolts, no need for threadlocker on these two. The caliper will feel a little loose on the pads at this stage.
14. Put the wheels back on, Lower the car off the jack stands and tighten the lug nuts 80 foot lbs.
15. Pump the brakes a few times so that the caliper pistons reposition themselves. Top off the brake fluid and screw the cap back on.
16. You will now need to "bed" the new brakes as follows: Drive upto 50 mph brake hard and come down to 5-10 mph. Go back up to 50 and brake again. Do this 4-5 times and you will start smelling burning brakes. This is normal.
Congrats. You just did your own front brake job.
Cost of rotors and pads: $195
Cost of various tools and lube: $45
Feeling you get when you drive your car and brake and feel no vibrations, knowing you did the brakes yourself: Priceless!
Im sorry I didn't take any pictures while I did this. I just wanted to get on here to let you guys know of the possible issues you will run into and what tools to have ready to be able to do this project.
I am not a mechanic, I am a physician. I gathered this information from various different sources and did my research before attempting to mess around with my brakes. I will appreciate any pointers you guys might have to help with my next project for the rear brakes.
I hope this helps someone. Will definitely take pics when I attempt the back rotors/pads.
Peace
Anyway when I took it back, the dealer resurfaced my front rotors and this seemed to work for about 2 weeks and then it started to come back slightly and it bothered me everytime I braked.
I didn't want to waste more time at this dealer and decided to order some stop tech rotors online. Found a great deal on Autoanything for under $200 shipped for stop tech slotted front rotors and posi quiet ceramic pads.
I have never changed the brakes let alone rotors by myself on any car before. I saw a few videos on youtube and thought I would give it a go.
Started collecting the needed tools including impact screwdriver, jack stands, breaker bar, 17 mm socket for caliper and 3/4 inch socket for caliper bracket bolts, brake lube, antiseize lube, 32 oz hammer, 4 or 6 inch C clamp and one free Saturday.
Here is my how to replace front rotors/pads for beginners like myself guide:
1. Park the car on level ground with the hand brake on and break the lug nuts loose using the tools in the trunk. Using the cars jack, jack it up enough to slide in the jack stands on each side.
2. Take off the wheels and turn the steering so you have more room to work behind the calipers on each side (eg. turn steering to left to work on drivers side).
3. Use a 17 mm socket in a breaker bar to take off the caliper bolts. Place the caliper somewhere safe without stressing the brake lines. (I used this opportunity to clean off the calipers with a wire brush, taped off the surroundings with newspaper and masked the rubber bushings on the caliper and hit it with duplicolor sliver hi temp caliper paint and it really made it pop).
4. This is the hardest step. There are 2 annoying rotor screws holding the rotors in place which will be a pain to remove. I applied some anti seize lube to the screw head, waited a few mins and then used an impact screw driver and 32 oz hammer to wack it 3-5 times and it worked like a charm. It is very important to apply an anticlockwise turning action to the impact screwdriver while you are wacking it otherwise it will not work. If you are not able to remove the rotor screws, no point going any further and you should put everything back together again and rethink your strategy. I had to abandon ship 2 times before I finally succeeded the third time.
5. Slide off the caliper and remove the old brake pads and shims. Open the hood and unscrew the brake oil cylinder cover. Use a 4 inch or bigger c clamp ($3 at walmart) and the old brake pad to push the caliper piston back in gently and slowly. Some brake fluid will overflow from the master cylinder you just uncovered.
6. Apply a 3/4 inch socket to breaker bar and remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper frame. This will require some elbow grease.
7. Use the hammer to wack the rotor hat at the top and bottom, left and right to loosen the rotor so that you can wriggle it off the hub.
8. Open your brand new stop tech rotors box and use the one marked L for the drivers side. Hit the front and back with brake clean and wipe off with a clean rag. Slide new rotor back on hub. (its a good idea to make sure your old rotors and the new ones are the same size by placing them on top of each other first)
9. Put a dab of antiseize on the rotor screws and screw back in. Do not over tighten these.
10. Put the caliper frame back on and apply 2 drops of BLUE threadlocker to each bolt before inserting them in and tighten them as much as you can using the breaker bar. You don't want these guys to loosen off while you are driving.
11. Place the new brake pad shims into caliper. Use permatex brake lube on the brake pads where they will make contact with the shims. I did not need to lube the back of the brake pads and I have heard no squeaks so far.
12. At this stage its worth checking to see if the brake pins slide back and forth in the rubber bushings of the caliper. If you need to relube the pins for the love of God, DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN SILICONE PASTE. REGULAR BRAKE GREASE WILL EAT YOUR BUSHINGS AND CAUSE YOUR CALIPERS TO FREEZE OVER TIME.
13. Tighten the brake caliper 17 mm bolts, no need for threadlocker on these two. The caliper will feel a little loose on the pads at this stage.
14. Put the wheels back on, Lower the car off the jack stands and tighten the lug nuts 80 foot lbs.
15. Pump the brakes a few times so that the caliper pistons reposition themselves. Top off the brake fluid and screw the cap back on.
16. You will now need to "bed" the new brakes as follows: Drive upto 50 mph brake hard and come down to 5-10 mph. Go back up to 50 and brake again. Do this 4-5 times and you will start smelling burning brakes. This is normal.
Congrats. You just did your own front brake job.
Cost of rotors and pads: $195
Cost of various tools and lube: $45
Feeling you get when you drive your car and brake and feel no vibrations, knowing you did the brakes yourself: Priceless!
Im sorry I didn't take any pictures while I did this. I just wanted to get on here to let you guys know of the possible issues you will run into and what tools to have ready to be able to do this project.
I am not a mechanic, I am a physician. I gathered this information from various different sources and did my research before attempting to mess around with my brakes. I will appreciate any pointers you guys might have to help with my next project for the rear brakes.
I hope this helps someone. Will definitely take pics when I attempt the back rotors/pads.
Peace
03-06-2016, 10:03 PM
#2
09 TL SH AWD /w TECH
I had started noticing a vibration from the front wheels when I braked when going over 50 mph. I just got the car CPO Jan 2016 and have been having second thoughts about the Acura "certification process". Apparently the techs had noticed this during the certification process as evident on the 150+ point inspection sheet but decided not to do anything about it!
Anyway when I took it back, the dealer resurfaced my front rotors and this seemed to work for about 2 weeks and then it started to come back slightly and it bothered me everytime I braked.
I didn't want to waste more time at this dealer and decided to order some stop tech rotors online. Found a great deal on Autoanything for under $200 shipped for stop tech slotted front rotors and posi quiet ceramic pads.
I have never changed the brakes let alone rotors by myself on any car before. I saw a few videos on youtube and thought I would give it a go.
Started collecting the needed tools including impact screwdriver, jack stands, breaker bar, 17 mm socket for caliper and 3/4 inch socket for caliper bracket bolts, brake lube, antiseize lube, 32 oz hammer, 4 or 6 inch C clamp and one free Saturday.
Here is my how to replace front rotors/pads for beginners like myself guide:
1. Park the car on level ground with the hand brake on and break the lug nuts loose using the tools in the trunk. Using the cars jack, jack it up enough to slide in the jack stands on each side.
2. Take off the wheels and turn the steering so you have more room to work behind the calipers on each side (eg. turn steering to left to work on drivers side).
3. Use a 17 mm socket in a breaker bar to take off the caliper bolts. Place the caliper somewhere safe without stressing the brake lines. (I used this opportunity to clean off the calipers with a wire brush, taped off the surroundings with newspaper and masked the rubber bushings on the caliper and hit it with duplicolor sliver hi temp caliper paint and it really made it pop).
4. This is the hardest step. There are 2 annoying rotor screws holding the rotors in place which will be a pain to remove. I applied some anti seize lube to the screw head, waited a few mins and then used an impact screw driver and 32 oz hammer to wack it 3-5 times and it worked like a charm. It is very important to apply an anticlockwise turning action to the impact screwdriver while you are wacking it otherwise it will not work. If you are not able to remove the rotor screws, no point going any further and you should put everything back together again and rethink your strategy. I had to abandon ship 2 times before I finally succeeded the third time.
5. Slide off the caliper and remove the old brake pads and shims. Open the hood and unscrew the brake oil cylinder cover. Use a 4 inch or bigger c clamp ($3 at walmart) and the old brake pad to push the caliper piston back in gently and slowly. Some brake fluid will overflow from the master cylinder you just uncovered.
6. Apply a 3/4 inch socket to breaker bar and remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper frame. This will require some elbow grease.
7. Use the hammer to wack the rotor hat at the top and bottom, left and right to loosen the rotor so that you can wriggle it off the hub.
8. Open your brand new stop tech rotors box and use the one marked L for the drivers side. Hit the front and back with brake clean and wipe off with a clean rag. Slide new rotor back on hub. (its a good idea to make sure your old rotors and the new ones are the same size by placing them on top of each other first)
9. Put a dab of antiseize on the rotor screws and screw back in. Do not over tighten these.
10. Put the caliper frame back on and apply 2 drops of BLUE threadlocker to each bolt before inserting them in and tighten them as much as you can using the breaker bar. You don't want these guys to loosen off while you are driving.
11. Place the new brake pad shims into caliper. Use permatex brake lube on the brake pads where they will make contact with the shims. I did not need to lube the back of the brake pads and I have heard no squeaks so far.
12. At this stage its worth checking to see if the brake pins slide back and forth in the rubber bushings of the caliper. If you need to relube the pins for the love of God, DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN SILICONE PASTE. REGULAR BRAKE GREASE WILL EAT YOUR BUSHINGS AND CAUSE YOUR CALIPERS TO FREEZE OVER TIME.
13. Tighten the brake caliper 17 mm bolts, no need for threadlocker on these two. The caliper will feel a little loose on the pads at this stage.
14. Put the wheels back on, Lower the car off the jack stands and tighten the lug nuts 80 foot lbs.
15. Pump the brakes a few times so that the caliper pistons reposition themselves. Top off the brake fluid and screw the cap back on.
16. You will now need to "bed" the new brakes as follows: Drive upto 50 mph brake hard and come down to 5-10 mph. Go back up to 50 and brake again. Do this 4-5 times and you will start smelling burning brakes. This is normal.
Congrats. You just did your own front brake job.
Cost of rotors and pads: $195
Cost of various tools and lube: $45
Feeling you get when you drive your car and brake and feel no vibrations, knowing you did the brakes yourself: Priceless!
Im sorry I didn't take any pictures while I did this. I just wanted to get on here to let you guys know of the possible issues you will run into and what tools to have ready to be able to do this project.
I am not a mechanic, I am a physician. I gathered this information from various different sources and did my research before attempting to mess around with my brakes. I will appreciate any pointers you guys might have to help with my next project for the rear brakes.
I hope this helps someone. Will definitely take pics when I attempt the back rotors/pads.
Peace
Anyway when I took it back, the dealer resurfaced my front rotors and this seemed to work for about 2 weeks and then it started to come back slightly and it bothered me everytime I braked.
I didn't want to waste more time at this dealer and decided to order some stop tech rotors online. Found a great deal on Autoanything for under $200 shipped for stop tech slotted front rotors and posi quiet ceramic pads.
I have never changed the brakes let alone rotors by myself on any car before. I saw a few videos on youtube and thought I would give it a go.
Started collecting the needed tools including impact screwdriver, jack stands, breaker bar, 17 mm socket for caliper and 3/4 inch socket for caliper bracket bolts, brake lube, antiseize lube, 32 oz hammer, 4 or 6 inch C clamp and one free Saturday.
Here is my how to replace front rotors/pads for beginners like myself guide:
1. Park the car on level ground with the hand brake on and break the lug nuts loose using the tools in the trunk. Using the cars jack, jack it up enough to slide in the jack stands on each side.
2. Take off the wheels and turn the steering so you have more room to work behind the calipers on each side (eg. turn steering to left to work on drivers side).
3. Use a 17 mm socket in a breaker bar to take off the caliper bolts. Place the caliper somewhere safe without stressing the brake lines. (I used this opportunity to clean off the calipers with a wire brush, taped off the surroundings with newspaper and masked the rubber bushings on the caliper and hit it with duplicolor sliver hi temp caliper paint and it really made it pop).
4. This is the hardest step. There are 2 annoying rotor screws holding the rotors in place which will be a pain to remove. I applied some anti seize lube to the screw head, waited a few mins and then used an impact screw driver and 32 oz hammer to wack it 3-5 times and it worked like a charm. It is very important to apply an anticlockwise turning action to the impact screwdriver while you are wacking it otherwise it will not work. If you are not able to remove the rotor screws, no point going any further and you should put everything back together again and rethink your strategy. I had to abandon ship 2 times before I finally succeeded the third time.
5. Slide off the caliper and remove the old brake pads and shims. Open the hood and unscrew the brake oil cylinder cover. Use a 4 inch or bigger c clamp ($3 at walmart) and the old brake pad to push the caliper piston back in gently and slowly. Some brake fluid will overflow from the master cylinder you just uncovered.
6. Apply a 3/4 inch socket to breaker bar and remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper frame. This will require some elbow grease.
7. Use the hammer to wack the rotor hat at the top and bottom, left and right to loosen the rotor so that you can wriggle it off the hub.
8. Open your brand new stop tech rotors box and use the one marked L for the drivers side. Hit the front and back with brake clean and wipe off with a clean rag. Slide new rotor back on hub. (its a good idea to make sure your old rotors and the new ones are the same size by placing them on top of each other first)
9. Put a dab of antiseize on the rotor screws and screw back in. Do not over tighten these.
10. Put the caliper frame back on and apply 2 drops of BLUE threadlocker to each bolt before inserting them in and tighten them as much as you can using the breaker bar. You don't want these guys to loosen off while you are driving.
11. Place the new brake pad shims into caliper. Use permatex brake lube on the brake pads where they will make contact with the shims. I did not need to lube the back of the brake pads and I have heard no squeaks so far.
12. At this stage its worth checking to see if the brake pins slide back and forth in the rubber bushings of the caliper. If you need to relube the pins for the love of God, DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN SILICONE PASTE. REGULAR BRAKE GREASE WILL EAT YOUR BUSHINGS AND CAUSE YOUR CALIPERS TO FREEZE OVER TIME.
13. Tighten the brake caliper 17 mm bolts, no need for threadlocker on these two. The caliper will feel a little loose on the pads at this stage.
14. Put the wheels back on, Lower the car off the jack stands and tighten the lug nuts 80 foot lbs.
15. Pump the brakes a few times so that the caliper pistons reposition themselves. Top off the brake fluid and screw the cap back on.
16. You will now need to "bed" the new brakes as follows: Drive upto 50 mph brake hard and come down to 5-10 mph. Go back up to 50 and brake again. Do this 4-5 times and you will start smelling burning brakes. This is normal.
Congrats. You just did your own front brake job.
Cost of rotors and pads: $195
Cost of various tools and lube: $45
Feeling you get when you drive your car and brake and feel no vibrations, knowing you did the brakes yourself: Priceless!
Im sorry I didn't take any pictures while I did this. I just wanted to get on here to let you guys know of the possible issues you will run into and what tools to have ready to be able to do this project.
I am not a mechanic, I am a physician. I gathered this information from various different sources and did my research before attempting to mess around with my brakes. I will appreciate any pointers you guys might have to help with my next project for the rear brakes.
I hope this helps someone. Will definitely take pics when I attempt the back rotors/pads.
Peace
Use a good kind of synthetic brake lubricant. Cheap stuff will dry up in no time and you'll end up having to service the brakes sooner then later. Make sure to clean off any of the old grease on the slider pins and apply new synthetic lube to the slider pins. Also clean where the pads sit in the carrier and apply anti seize where the clips sit so rust has a small chance on getting back in there.
Also anti seize the top and bottom of brake pad. And put synthetic brake lubricant on the shield side of the pad and by the material side.
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