DIY oil change
#1
DIY oil change
Gonna be the first time DIY oil change. Apart from oil and filter, is there a washer between the drain bolt that I need to change? Or any other parts that need a change during the process.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Get a new washer, don't argue about 40 cents aluminum piece! Also before you install the plug with the washer on, dip the washer in some engine oil. Don't over-tight the drain bolt, estimate around 20-30lb torque (I think?). Also don't forget to prime the filter by filling it up with engine oil and spread some oil its gasket edge too. Finger tight filter is just find, give it a good extra half turn just to be safe. Of course, safety first, use a jackstand to support the car, not just the floor jack.
#5
Racer
#6
Burning Brakes
That (link above) is a very good thread.
It cannot be said enough however. DON"T OVERTIGHTEN the drain bolt! And don't overfill the oil. There will be a significant variation between the cold reading and the hot reading on the dipstick.
Also, you can get a nice "wrench" for the oil filter which is like a cap that fits over the filter and is about an inch deep. Mine works with a 3/8" driver and is well worth it, although it's not strictly necessary.
It cannot be said enough however. DON"T OVERTIGHTEN the drain bolt! And don't overfill the oil. There will be a significant variation between the cold reading and the hot reading on the dipstick.
Also, you can get a nice "wrench" for the oil filter which is like a cap that fits over the filter and is about an inch deep. Mine works with a 3/8" driver and is well worth it, although it's not strictly necessary.
#7
Racer
Also some foil or old newspaper cover the frame (where the oil filter is right below), to prevent any oil from leaking onto there is another thing you could do.
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#8
Summer is Coming
Get a new washer, don't argue about 40 cents aluminum piece! Also before you install the plug with the washer on, dip the washer in some engine oil. Don't over-tight the drain bolt, estimate around 20-30lb torque (I think?). Also don't forget to prime the filter by filling it up with engine oil and spread some oil its gasket edge too. Finger tight filter is just find, give it a good extra half turn just to be safe. Of course, safety first, use a jackstand to support the car, not just the floor jack.
I'd also run the car and get the oil up to temp before I drained it. Makes the oil a little thinner and easier to drain out. Not sure if this is necessary or not, it was just my habit.
#9
Instructor
Join Date: Jun 2004
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I use an oil extractor for all my oil changes. I currently do this on my 2011 TL and my wifes 2011 Infiniti FX35. My past TL's were no different and it's so much easier than going underneath dealing with the drain plug/wash and oil container. Oil filter is simple because you can just turn the wheel and BAM, the filer is right there to remove and replace.
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KarKraze (12-15-2013)
#12
I am looking at and old receipt from the parts counter of a dealership:
94109-14000, Washer, Drain, 14
(I still don't understand why these parts are printed like something Yoda would say... )
94109-14000, Washer, Drain, 14
(I still don't understand why these parts are printed like something Yoda would say... )
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