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They did the pistons, rings, all the seals and gaskets in the TSB, timing belt and spark plugs. They ended up having to replace the front camshaft under warranty, as it was pitted from oil starvation. They initially only did a valve adjustment for the front bank, but the back made a lot of noise, so i brought it back and they did the back valves for me.
So far the car's running smoothly, sounds good, no oil burning smell from the back. First 100km the car felt a bit rough. I was told that's normal while the rings seat/break in. I plan on treating this like a new engine break in. I'm gonna keep the revs under 3-3.5k for the first 1000km. Do an oil change, then increase the rpm to 4000-4500 for the next 1500-2000km. Do another oil change, and then drive normally for another 4000-5000km and do an oil change after that. It's probably overkill, but I take good care of my cars, and i plan on keeping this for as long as possible.
They did the pistons, rings, all the seals and gaskets in the TSB, timing belt and spark plugs. They ended up having to replace the front camshaft under warranty, as it was pitted from oil starvation. They initially only did a valve adjustment for the front bank, but the back made a lot of noise, so i brought it back and they did the back valves for me.
May I ask which dealer did your work? I'm awaiting the phone call to schedule the job. It has been a little over a month now.
I'm going to have them do the timing belt/water pump job at the same time, and I'm fairly certain that I've got a toasted cam as well. Your story gives me great hope!
They did the pistons, rings, all the seals and gaskets in the TSB, timing belt and spark plugs. They ended up having to replace the front camshaft under warranty, as it was pitted from oil starvation. They initially only did a valve adjustment for the front bank, but the back made a lot of noise, so i brought it back and they did the back valves for me.
So far the car's running smoothly, sounds good, no oil burning smell from the back. First 100km the car felt a bit rough. I was told that's normal while the rings seat/break in. I plan on treating this like a new engine break in. I'm gonna keep the revs under 3-3.5k for the first 1000km. Do an oil change, then increase the rpm to 4000-4500 for the next 1500-2000km. Do another oil change, and then drive normally for another 4000-5000km and do an oil change after that. It's probably overkill, but I take good care of my cars, and i plan on keeping this for as long as possible.
SO te Belts were INCLUDED as part of the repair? or you had to pay out f pocket?
May I ask which dealer did your work? I'm awaiting the phone call to schedule the job. It has been a little over a month now.
I'm going to have them do the timing belt/water pump job at the same time, and I'm fairly certain that I've got a toasted cam as well. Your story gives me great hope!
I went to Performance Acura North Mississauga. I'm in Ontario, Canada. I made sure to ask around for a dealer with good, honest service. They had some of the best reviews of any dealer within a 1 hour drive from me. Honestly, I agree with the good reviews. I've never had such a positive experience from dealer service before. The SA and his manager were very honest and respectful.
Originally Posted by mrphilipanderson
SO te Belts were INCLUDED as part of the repair? or you had to pay out f pocket?
The timing belt, and spark plugs were included along with the pistons, rings, seals/gaskets. My front cams were damaged from oil starvation, so they warrantied that as well.
I paid out of pocket for water pump, oil pump and tensioner. They prorated the labour cost because the engine was already open. It came to an extra 4 hours i think?
I went to Performance Acura North Mississauga. I'm in Ontario, Canada. I made sure to ask around for a dealer with good, honest service. They had some of the best reviews of any dealer within a 1 hour drive from me. Honestly, I agree with the good reviews. I've never had such a positive experience from dealer service before. The SA and his manager were very honest and respectful.
Thanks for the update. I've been dealing with Schlueter Acura in Kitchener. Hopefully my experience is the same.
This is good to know. I'm in the process of the 1,000 mile dealer oil tests. I guess when I return for a second time they'll send my results and service records to Honda for a decision on what they want to do. You're information isn't very encouraging though.
Have owned our 2010 TL SH AWD for a couple years. Used a quart every 1500 miles or so when we first bought it. Adjusted the valves myself last May, almost exactly a year ago. Noticed a light brown coat of varnish on the valve train (cam lobes were shiny and no pitting), as if the metal itself was colored a clear light carmel but no surface accumulation. Inside of the valve covers was a darker varnish I could scratch off with my fingernail.
First things first, I shortened the OCI to 5000 miles and after another 15,000 miles, oil consumption seems to be about a quart every 2000 miles. The first year we owned it the oil change reminder got down to 10% at around 7000 miles. Way too long for the oil to be in this hard-working engine. The shorter oil change interval has helped with the oil consumption. To me, the long oil change interval the change reminder tends to do simply allow varnish accumulation on the rings. Thoughts?
I don’t think there’s a prayer of an oil consumption test giving me anything positive in terms of a new top end, My letter said I had until September 2019 to get it to a dealer for the test. Anybody offer thoughts as to whether I should just do it and you just never know?
Have owned our 2010 TL SH AWD for a couple years. Used a quart every 1500 miles or so when we first bought it. Adjusted the valves myself last May, almost exactly a year ago. Noticed a light brown coat of varnish on the valve train (cam lobes were shiny and no pitting), as if the metal itself was colored a clear light carmel but no surface accumulation. Inside of the valve covers was a darker varnish I could scratch off with my fingernail.
First things first, I shortened the OCI to 5000 miles and after another 15,000 miles, oil consumption seems to be about a quart every 2000 miles. The first year we owned it the oil change reminder got down to 10% at around 7000 miles. Way too long for the oil to be in this hard-working engine. The shorter oil change interval has helped with the oil consumption. To me, the long oil change interval the change reminder tends to do simply allow varnish accumulation on the rings. Thoughts?
I don’t think there’s a prayer of an oil consumption test giving me anything positive in terms of a new top end, My letter said I had until September 2019 to get it to a dealer for the test. Anybody offer thoughts as to whether I should just do it and you just never know?
What’s there to think about????
u have an opportunity to get a new shortblock!
take it in. It would cost u nothing. I drove hard during test. Always had it in sport mode. Really enhanced the oil consumption it seemed.
What’s there to think about????
u have an opportunity to get a new shortblock!
take it in. It would cost u nothing. I drove hard during test. Always had it in sport mode. Really enhanced the oil consumption it seemed.
You have a good point there, I'll take it in after our trip to Midwest that were taking this weekend and drive it hard during the test.
my only concern is the letter showed up a few months ago and I've been doing my own oil changes I buy it at Walmart or AutoZone and don't keep the receipts. Didn't see this coming. Seems they do ask for receipts for the time you've owned the car?
You have a good point there, I'll take it in after our trip to Midwest that were taking this weekend and drive it hard during the test.
my only concern is the letter showed up a few months ago and I've been doing my own oil changes I buy it at Walmart or AutoZone and don't keep the receipts. Didn't see this coming. Seems they do ask for receipts for the time you've owned the car?
Hes right you have nothing to lose. Do what you have to do. I drove mine hard in sport mode the entire time. It was so much fun.
They may or may not ask you for oil change records. It varies by dealer. Even if they do they might approve the fix if you explain you do them yourself. You never know.
Have owned our 2010 TL SH AWD for a couple years. Used a quart every 1500 miles or so when we first bought it. Adjusted the valves myself last May, almost exactly a year ago. Noticed a light brown coat of varnish on the valve train (cam lobes were shiny and no pitting), as if the metal itself was colored a clear light carmel but no surface accumulation. Inside of the valve covers was a darker varnish I could scratch off with my fingernail.
First things first, I shortened the OCI to 5000 miles and after another 15,000 miles, oil consumption seems to be about a quart every 2000 miles. The first year we owned it the oil change reminder got down to 10% at around 7000 miles. Way too long for the oil to be in this hard-working engine. The shorter oil change interval has helped with the oil consumption. To me, the long oil change interval the change reminder tends to do simply allow varnish accumulation on the rings. Thoughts?
I don’t think there’s a prayer of an oil consumption test giving me anything positive in terms of a new top end, My letter said I had until September 2019 to get it to a dealer for the test. Anybody offer thoughts as to whether I should just do it and you just never know?
Also remember if asked for oil change records...you didnt save them because you change your own oil, regularly, and you never anticipated such serious a issue, especially when you followed the cars MID (multi-infro-display) for all maintenance intervals. It wasnt until you realized you had to keep oil in your trunk at all times due to how much your car used oil that you started to realize "hey, i think there might be a problem".
Also remember if asked for oil change records...you didnt save them because you change your own oil, regularly, and you never anticipated such serious a issue, especially when you followed the cars MID (multi-infro-display) for all maintenance intervals. It wasnt until you realized you had to keep oil in your trunk at all times due to how much your car used oil that you started to realize "hey, i think there might be a problem".
The Acura owners website https://owners.acura.com has a link where you can enter service records/maintenance items you've done on your TL. Every time I did something on my TL, I always go online and add it to the service records. I don't go to the dealer for service, I tried to do it myself but if I can't, I usually go to an independent mechanic. My 2012 TL failed the oil consumption test and was scheduled to be worked on this September. Dealer never ask for oil change/maintenance history at all. I would recommend you go and have it tested.
The current oil change has just an under 1500 miles on it. Anticipating some quick build up of road miles, when I had the tires rotated, had an oil change done at the shop using conventional QSUD 5W20. I think that’s the first oil change done by anyone other than myself in 20 years on any car.
I normally run synthetic but figured this would be fine for a shorter oil change interval with doing the test in the back of my mind. With the QSUD 5W20 , my wife took it on a 700 mile round trip to southwest Colorado last weekend, a couple shorter trips around home, and this weekend I am in the Midwest for a wedding. Will put another 550 going home tomorrow. Oil level has dropped not quite a half quart when I checked today. Speeds for the first half of the Midwest trip were 80 to 85 mph cruise control on the interstate and 70-75 on back roads through Kansas and Nebraska going to Lincoln from the Colorado Springs area. Backroads had lots of passing and running it up to triple digits a number of times “just because”. Shortening the oil change interval to 5000 miles I believe has helped clean up some of the carbon or varnish off the rings and definitely lowered oil consumption from when I bought the car.
From listening to you guys and your experienced advice, the plan is to get to 3000 or so miles with this oil change and do the test. My wife’s gonna hate giving up the car for 1000 miles so I can drive the wheels off it in sport mode. Ha ha.
Per my dealer's instructions some time back, I went to a 5K OCI too. It has helped. Many have reported that their consumption rate increases the longer the oil has been in the crankcase, and I've noticed the same. Not only does the oil get very dirty over 5K miles, but it is consumed more quickly. Overall, I seem to average about a quart or less of oil per 2000 or so miles. I'm taking the car in for the consumption test at my next oil change, which will take place sometime this summer.
Per my dealer's instructions some time back, I went to a 5K OCI too. It has helped. Many have reported that their consumption rate increases the longer the oil has been in the crankcase, and I've noticed the same. Not only does the oil get very dirty over 5K miles, but it is consumed more quickly. Overall, I seem to average about a quart or less of oil per 2000 or so miles. I'm taking the car in for the consumption test at my next oil change, which will take place sometime this summer.
Got back this afternoon from my trip to the Midwest. 1160 miles round-trip, coupled with the almost 1000 miles on the oil change beforeI left, it may have burned 1/2 quart of QS conventional 5W 20. Typically after the car sits overnight the oil level comes up a bit vs checking it an hour or so after shutting it down. At least that’s been my experience. I’m basing that half quart of consumption on the level after having the oil changed and sitting overnight 2100 miles ago versus the oil level with the engine still warm after sitting an hour. Parked in the same spot in the driveway, etc. so it will be a good reading come morning.
With that said, I am so happy with the open road capabilities and comfort of the 3.7 TL. Based on filling up the tank (combined with gas added along the way) when we arrived in Lincoln Nebraska, it averaged 29.4 miles per gallon. Haven’t filled up since I got home, but running 75-80 mph with a good quartering headwind coming back uphill from Nebraska to Colorado, the second half of the trip averaged 25.5 according to the gas mileage computer. My computer typically reads about 1 mile per gallon low historically, I believe my average is going to be solidly in the 27 mpg range.
I had a fun time coming into Denver on Highway 36. It runs parallel to a straightaway of the High Plains Raceway and there were cars out doing track time. I gave it the business and got up to speed easily on the empty highway staying even with the cars on the track then they started slowing for a corner. Triple digits is all I will say...
They did the pistons, rings, all the seals and gaskets in the TSB, timing belt and spark plugs. They ended up having to replace the front camshaft under warranty, as it was pitted from oil starvation. They initially only did a valve adjustment for the front bank, but the back made a lot of noise, so i brought it back and they did the back valves for me.
So far the car's running smoothly, sounds good, no oil burning smell from the back. First 100km the car felt a bit rough. I was told that's normal while the rings seat/break in. I plan on treating this like a new engine break in. I'm gonna keep the revs under 3-3.5k for the first 1000km. Do an oil change, then increase the rpm to 4000-4500 for the next 1500-2000km. Do another oil change, and then drive normally for another 4000-5000km and do an oil change after that. It's probably overkill, but I take good care of my cars, and i plan on keeping this for as long as possible.
I'm assuming they rehoned the cylinders as well? They didn't replace the valve guide seals or piston rod bearings?
It’s the pressure the rings exert against the cylinder walls that break things in. Which means on and off throttle initially as soon as you can get it out of the parking lot. My opinion is you don’t want it to idle, there is very little cylinder pressure pushing those rings out against the wall. Take it up to 3000 RPM let the engine brake itself back down take it back up again let it brake back down, do this as reasonably as possible on your way home. Use sport mode or manual transmission lower gear. Get the car home, let it cool down, then repeat the same thing a few times. The idea is to provide cylinder pressure that pushes the rings out against the cylinder walls and go through heat cycles. That combination should easily seat your rings in the first handful of times you take the car out.
However...
My question is, and this is a great time for you to ask, what did the dealership do when they started it and ran it the first time? Ask them what their procedure was once it was back together but before they handed you the keys. Did they take it around the block and check for leaks, did they take it out for a drive to let everything warm up and then check for leaks, etc.? The fact we take such good care of our engines is a testimony to our diligence however I bet dollars to donuts your rings were pretty much seated by the time it left the dealer and you had the key. If you documented the odometer when you took it in you can see how much it was driven by the time it got back to your possession.
How about test driving a new car? Let’s say it has 20 miles on it. How many test drives was that, how hard was it run at the encouragement of the salesman to “feel the power”? And don’t most manufacturers put a car on a rolling dyno to check out it is functioning before it ships? Just stuff to think about when we baby it for the first 600 miles and do multiple oil changes.
Thanks for the update. I've been dealing with Schlueter Acura in Kitchener. Hopefully my experience is the same.
I am going there as well. Went earlier in the year and had the oil consumption test done. Parts on back order, been waiting for a couple of months now. Was debating whether to get the whole timing belt service done. Would be a bit over 1 K to have it done when I asked them. Also, I dont remember them mentioning spark plugs when we were discussing the work to be done. Too bad I cant have them install HFPC while they doing the engine work lol (well I never asked them, but doubt that would be something a dealership would be...but just think of alll the labour I would save on!).
On another note, looks like my clutch just started slipping...close to 4k to fix if need flywheel replaced as well. Sucks as the car is just at 110k Km. My CL still on original clutch at 250k km! Dont know when the backorder parts would be coming in or else I would have asked them to do clutch at same time as engine repair.
I hate when Acura has my car...the wait KILLS me...its like watching paint dry. I wish it was like Dominos pizza where you can see what stage your car is in...
I dropped it off last Wednesday....no call...nada. Im so tempted to call them....and be like, im going to 4GTL withdrawal, how much longer will you have my baby?
I hate when Acura has my car...the wait KILLS me...its like watching paint dry. I wish it was like Dominos pizza where you can see what stage your car is in...
I dropped it off last Wednesday....no call...nada. Im so tempted to call them....and be like, im going to 4GTL withdrawal, how much longer will you have my baby?
You mean like this?
Current status: Waiting for a slot in the bay
Current status: Car in bay, waiting on technician
Current status: Technician found an unnecessary service to recommend
Current status: Service advisor is strong-arming you to have unnecessary service performed
Current status: Work is done, because you didn't opt for extra service, the technician is out joy-riding in your car
Current status: Your car is waiting for a flatbed; the technician crashed your car
Current status: Waiting on an estimate from your insurance company
Current status: Technician found an unnecessary service to recommend
Current status: Service advisor is strong-arming you to have unnecessary service performed
Current status: Work is done, because you didn't opt for extra service, the technician is out joy-riding in your car
Current status: Your car is waiting for a flatbed; the technician crashed your car
Current status: Waiting on an estimate from your insurance company
LOOL Dude ur funny. That made my stomach drop the part about crashing.. LOL I have the viper smart start system so It literally tells me when and how long they test drive my car for hahahah.
But the battery has been dead for a few days so they MUST be working on it LOL i keep telling myself. I wish i could become best friends with an Acura mechanic...hell id even date one. Or give one massages in exchange for
knowledge and experience....and parts.... cant forget parts.
Last edited by mrphilipanderson; 06-05-2019 at 01:16 PM.
Reason: typo
I dropped mine off on 5/20 and it's finally done today. They didn't start it until this Monday. The SA kept me updated and since I had a loaner, it wasn't too big of a deal. I'm excited to go pick it up!
I got a call earlier in the week that I was approved. (2011 MDX)
They are waiting on the parts and to schedule a courtesy vehicle. I am hoping that they don't try to rip me off on the timing belt. (If the replacement is not included). I expect to only pay the cost of a new belt.
I don't know if I will do the water pump and pulley.
I don't think that I will keep this vehicle for long. First Acura that I've been unhappy with (previously 2005 TL and 2007 RDX).
I dropped mine off on 5/20 and it's finally done today. They didn't start it until this Monday. The SA kept me updated and since I had a loaner, it wasn't too big of a deal. I'm excited to go pick it up!
Care to share your thoughts? how does it drive? Any noticeable difference?
The Acura owners website https://owners.acura.com has a link where you can enter service records/maintenance items you've done on your TL. Every time I did something on my TL, I always go online and add it to the service records. I don't go to the dealer for service, I tried to do it myself but if I can't, I usually go to an independent mechanic. My 2012 TL failed the oil consumption test and was scheduled to be worked on this September. Dealer never ask for oil change/maintenance history at all. I would recommend you go and have it tested.
carfax.com. Its AMAZING. I even have the birth date of my car there, Its awesome when you can see the factory and dealership your car came from. And even DMV reg records are kept. Im a bit OCD.
Care to share your thoughts? how does it drive? Any noticeable difference?
As I had suspected for a while, timing belt and spark plugs aren't replaced in the US, seems only in Canada. I paid $720 to replace timing belt, tensioner, water pump, drive belt and various seals as I have 101k on my TL and it was time. First impression is the car throttle response definitely feels much quicker than before. Everything just feels "tighter" when I press on the gas pedal, if that makes sense. Quite happy with the result as it feels like a new car again. Here's hoping that the fix actually worked and no more oil consumption. What's the consensus on how soon I should do an oil change?
I am now loving my car as the rattles have now completely went away! I used to always get rattles upon acceleration and it just made me start hating the car because of how shitty it sounded. I got all the gaskets and pistons replaced on my engine from the recall as well as a new water pump that was provided for free as well. This move from Acura has really helped with their brand image in my eyes as they have finally acknowledged their problem and have fixed it.
Dropped my car off this morning. Here's a part list of what will be done. The service advisor said that even though it says if needed beside timing belt, they are replacing all timing belts. Of course also obligatory picture of the loaner car.
I am now loving my car as the rattles have now completely went away! I used to always get rattles upon acceleration and it just made me start hating the car because of how shitty it sounded. I got all the gaskets and pistons replaced on my engine from the recall as well as a new water pump that was provided for free as well. This move from Acura has really helped with their brand image in my eyes as they have finally acknowledged their problem and have fixed it.
The rattle part for me would be HUGE. im STILL waiting on my car. Each day feels like an eternity.I feel like my car is my wife hahaha
New to the thread - bought my 2012 TLAWD brand new. Has about 119k on the odometer now. Last month took it for the oil consumption test, failed. Waited a few weeks for the parts to arrive and service was completed about 2 weeks ago. Added the belts, water pump, plugs to the service. Car felt almost exactly the same as when I dropped it off. I started to wonder if they tore the block apart and replaced pistons, rings, gaskets etc....there was just very little difference in power, engine sound, anything.
Well I few days ago, got my answer. Started to smell burnt oil after a short drive. Checked under the hood, sure enough gasket leak from the top of head onto the exhaust manifold. A couple other areas are wet around the oil pan and botton of the engine as well.
....Im screwed, this was a solid car with never any sign of oil or gasket failure. Do I let em open the engine up again?
STEP 1.
Call and speak with the SERVICE manager. Not assistant or supervisor. Service manager.
Inquire "How can we fix this, because this is...not okay"
STEP 2
Start correspondence with Acura Client Relations. Documenting the timeline and what happened.
STEP 3
They worked on the engine and less than 2 weeks later engine fails. Im certain they warranty their work.
This sounds horrible. I myself have many questions...the main one being HOW DID THIS HAPPEN?!
Dropped my car off this morning. Here's a part list of what will be done. The service advisor said that even though it says if needed beside timing belt, they are replacing all timing belts. Of course also obligatory picture of the loaner car.
I don't understand why they replace timing belt and spark plugs in Canada, but not in the US. How do you like the A-Spec. I had a TLX V6 FWD. Was not impressed at all. Much prefer my TL.
I'm assuming they rehoned the cylinders as well? They didn't replace the valve guide seals or piston rod bearings?
I don't think they rehoned. According to the TSA, it only needs to be rehoned if they're deep grooves. If the walls are smooth, they don't do it. I went into the shop (with permission obviously) to look at my engine when it was opened, and the cylinder walls were pretty smooth.
I'm not sure about the valve guide seals, but they don't really touch the valves unless it's needed.
No piston rod bearings listed on work order... i asked the tech, he said mine were fine and usually the damage is limited to the upper end from starvation, and not the bottom.
Dealer is saying my tensioner should be replaced becuase its a little loose.... asking if I will pay $208 (cost of the part) for it to be replaced. What do you think?
Dealer is saying my tensioner should be replaced becuase its a little loose.... asking if I will pay $208 (cost of the part) for it to be replaced. What do you think?
I don't understand why they replace timing belt and spark plugs in Canada, but not in the US. How do you like the A-Spec. I had a TLX V6 FWD. Was not impressed at all. Much prefer my TL.
Got my car back this morning... that was quick. I did pay to replace the tensioner. I really just drove it 10 minutes home and it honestly feels the same, which is a good thing because it felt great before except for the oil burning. But of course I babied it home. Ill baby it for maybe 1k km before im back to httin vtec. Im sure ill have more to say about how it feels as I drive it more.
As far as the loaner, 2019 SH-awd A-spec. First impressions were good, its a car that I really wanted to like. All the fancy new features were cool and easy to get used to (albeit completely unnecessary for me). Seats were nice and comfortable, I like the leather and suede. It could be pretty quick in sport + and the transmission felt great at all times. The white paint was beautiful in the sun as it really sparkles. Yet after the initial excitement my impressions went a little downhill. To me it felt bigger without actually being bigger. It had a real imprecise boaty feel to it. Suspension too soft. Sh-awd barely helped how much bodyroll it had in corners. Defiantly felt like its driving dynamics were rounded and reduced compared to the 4G. Fake engine sounds were annoying for me. Girlfriend asked me why the engine was so loud yet it feels slower than your car. I think that sums it up well.
Dropped my car off this morning. Here's a part list of what will be done. The service advisor said that even though it says if needed beside timing belt, they are replacing all timing belts. Of course also obligatory picture of the loaner car.
Mine got approved just the other day and they were telling me I can get the timing belt, water pump and tensioner replaced. Service lady gave me a rough quote of $1300. Now after seeing this sheet, timing belt should be included with the warranty repair right? Also, did you have the water pump done as well?
05-21-2019, 10:26 PM
