6SpeedTL

How much is it consuming ? At this point I will end up putting more oil in between changes then I do at the actual change. Not worth it especially if I can get a new short block at 80K miles.

6SpeedTL

Has anyone contacted the below lawyer regarding oil consumption ?

https://chimicles.com/acura-engine-o...ction-lawsuit/

crxb

- is that the Acura TL SH-AWD "2C" model - as in 2 cycle engine?

- co developed with assistance from the LawnBoy lawn mower company - due to their extensive experience with 2 cycle engines.

as opposed to a 4 cycle engine

6SpeedTL

So I got the typical industry standard is 1 qt per 1000 mile is ok. Lets see what happens when I go back after 1K miles. Have a feeling i will be giving client relations a call.

Jim Sandy

If anyone is interested in joining other Acura owners in a class action lawsuit, fill out information here: https://chimicles.com/acura-engine-o...ction-lawsuit/

mossman77

A class action lawsuit isn't going to resolve the oil burning issue. If anything, you're making a lawyer richer. Stop being a douche and wait for Acura to come out with a fix.

Dejan

I guess I'm lucky because my engine doesn't consume oil. The oil level does seem to fall slightly (just like on any car) but not what I would call excessive.

How low do you guys let it get before you decide to add more oil?

As long as it's above the minimum line on teh dipstick, you do not need to add any. It doesn't need to be at the top line, that's just the max you can have.

I have went as long as 9 months between oil changes and never once had to top it off, even after the 9 months it was still a bit higher than the minimum line on the dip stick.

6SpeedTL

First 1000 miles, 1/2 qt consumed. Next 1000 miles, 3/4 qt consumed.

Dealership still not concerned and advised it was "normal". Its obvious its getting worse the more the oil breaks down, and I will most likely be at quart per 1000 miles here soon. I also opened up a case with Acura Client Relations. Will let you know how that goes.

omgitsspooky

Hey all, could you help me figure out how many quarts I burned since my last oil change? This is after 2,340 miles. I started with 5 quarts of Royal Purple.

JM2010 SH-AWD

About 3/4 of a quart, assuming it was at the top line when you did your oil change. How many miles on your car?

omgitsspooky

I have 37k miles . I guess I'm normal?

altair47

Maybe you have an oil leak?
With what interval you change the oil?

altair47

Problem 3.7 engine is an aluminum engine block, if not in time to change the oil and overheat the engine, there scratches in the cylinders, this starts Excessive Oil Consumption

omgitsspooky

This is my first oil change since I bought it. I don't drive much so I should be changing annually. May of next year should be 1 year.

altair47

Probably the previous owner made only one oil change at 15,000,or he start the engine and immediately driving, it broke the engine. If the car on the guarantee take where bought, let them test the compression in the cylinders, f there is a different pressure in the cylinders, mean you need a new engine(( This is not the fault of the Honda, it is necessary to change the oil every 5,000 mili and warm up the engine before driving

EE4Life

The article was revised. Under affected vehicles, the TL information was changed from 2010-14 TL to 2009-14 TL (SH-AWD only).

A possible root cause for the engine oil consumption is that the piston rings may be clogged from carbon buildup.

BTS160705
Engine Oil Consumption
Affected Vehicles: 2010−13 MDX, 2011−12 RL, 2009−14 TL (SH-AWD only), and 2010−13 ZDX
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/BTS160705.PDF
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p.../BTS160705.PDF

altair47

Yeah yeah yeah bullshit, engine with 30k miles with carbon buildup, it is impossible, we do not live in Asia, we have no gas mix with sheep urine.

Edward'TLS

I thought only the newer engines using "direct fuel injection" technology have this carbon buildup problem.

But ours are using just the old and proven Honda "programmed fuel injection" tech.

FallenTSX

Does this apply to all vehicles regardless of mileage and expiration of warranties? Just so long you have the vehicle listed then it should be covered by Acura?

I have a 2010 SHAWD 6 speed manual, over 127k and no warranty.

Last oil change I did, I reset the trip and at around 600 miles, it was down to 1/4 left on the dipstick and now it seems like I have valve tapping or even piston slap.

Will they even work on my car with those obvious sounds. I always changed the oil with either Royal Purple or Mobil 1 full synthetic when the minder says to so.

-DeL

omgitsspooky

According to the October article, "And if the vehicle is out of warranty, be sure to contact your DPSM for possible goodwill consideration."

FallenTSX

^^ Yea I remember seeing that article but on the current one it says it replaces the one posted for October 2016 and doesn't mention "good will consideration" on the current article.

Also, I'm assuming I should replace my HFPCs back to stock too. >.<

-DeL

nzone

Disclaimer: What I am about to say is unconventional and can be considered BS. If you opt to do it, do it on own risk. It may not work for you at all. However, when your back against the wall, you will do anything.

My '11 MDX consumed excessive amount of oil. A trip to Montreal (650mi) burned a little more than a quart. Daily driving burned about 1qt/1200-1500mi.
I found the solution to my MDX excessive oil consumption through stupidity.

1. Replaced PCV valve - No Fix
2. Engine Flush - BG EPR #109 - No Fix.
3. 5W-30 - helped a little but no fix
4. Techron Fuel System Cleaner - No Fix (not expecting from this)

The solution...
5. Drain and refill with fresh oil with new filter. Start the engine. Disconnect (make sure the surrounding area has no dirt) the PCV valve return hose from the Intake Manifold. The moment you disconnected the hose, there will be huge amount of air sucking into the engine. The engine will start to slowly choking away. Just before the engine ready to shut off, reconnect the hose. Check your oil every day, there will be carbon residue floating in the oil and your oil level may increase. If you noticed the carbon residue, keep driving the car until the oil filter captures all the carbon. Then put on a new oil filter.
Note: The new oil allows you to see/spot the black carbon residue easily. The new filter allows maximum capacity to hold residues.

1200 mi later and a trip to Montreal, not a single drop of oil burned. The tailpipe is clean! Will see what happen at 5000mi.

the_razor

are you still using 5w30?

nzone

I changed from QSUD 5w30 (100%) to a mixture of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 (75%) and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 (25%). I have also tried Castrol German 0w-40 (100%) before the accidental solution. Both 5w30 QSUD and CG 0w-40 still burned and produced black soot at the tailpipe.

Derekw_FL

How is did you come up with this method to force clean the carbon build up? What in this part of the procedure creates the power to flush this out? Is this in line with Acura TSB about carbon buildup on the rings?

the_razor

So far I see carbon build-up and bad rings as the culprit behind consumption. Out of curiosity Shell promotes their new formula Nitro+ "contain an exclusive formula designed to actively protect against performance-robbing gunk in all three grades" is this even cleaning the carbon build up?

nzone

There is no TSB. I came up with this method by shear of stupidity. After changing the oil and started the engine, I decided to check to see if pcv valve works so I unplugged the pcv return hose at the intake manifold. By doing so...negative pressure started sucking air in.

nzone

Maybe it's the opposite. Instead of 'cleaning' it's 'depositing' :P. I've been using Shell 93 exclusively since 60K.

HondaOwnerForLife

Acura replaced the short block in my 2010 6MT SHAWD. That was November 2015. See the link to this thread in the ZDX forum:

https://acurazine.com/forums/acura-z...mption-953120/
I had not seen this communication from American Honda until the above.
Seems to me there is now, at the least, some genuine and published interest by Honda to identify the root cause of this issue.

TLTesh604

Do you have any updates? Has anyone else with a 4G TL SHAWD tried this method with any luck? My 09 is burning about a quart every 3000 miles. Anyone use Lucas oil stabilizer for our oil burning issue with any luck? Love this car and it runs so well you wouldn't know its burning oil!

mossman77

That's nothing. I wouldn't worry about it.

JM2010 SH-AWD

Thanks for posting. Keep us posted on what you hear if you decide to pursue something with the ZDX. I wonder what parts they want to collect.

ninothing

Has anyone with this issues noticed any strange movement in their Oil Life indicator? I had an oil change 2k miles ago and oil life suddenly dropped to 15% over the weekend. Don't know if this is related to the topic of this thread or somehow coincident to my 50k mile service light also coming on.

I plan on making an appointment to have my airbag recall addressed and bring this to the service department attention hopefully this week.

yzmuddereffer

Sorry if this has already been posted, but here's a good read on the various types of aluminum bore engines, which I understand the Honda J37 is:

Honing Aluminum Blocks - Engine Builder Magazine

I saw some information elsewhere that assumed the J37 was Nikasil coated, which is well proven in aluminum blocks under conditions much more severe than what a typical J37 will ever see. However, other sources I've come across say that the J37 is not Nikasil but a hypereutectic aluminum bore. If Nikasil, then I would suspect the rings/piston are at fault. If hypereutectic aluminum, then it's probably a fundamental issue with the block composition at the bore.

If anyone knows definitively whether the J37 is Nikasil or hypereutectic aluminum, please share.

yzmuddereffer

Sorry if this has already been posted, but here's a good read on the various types of aluminum bore engines, which I understand the Honda J37 is:

Honing Aluminum Blocks - Engine Builder Magazine

I saw some information elsewhere that assumed the J37 was Nikasil coated, which is well proven in aluminum blocks under conditions much more severe than what a typical J37 will ever see. However, other sources I've come across say that the J37 is not Nikasil but a hypereutectic aluminum bore. If Nikasil, then I would suspect the rings/piston are at fault. If hypereutectic aluminum, then it's probably a fundamental issue with the block composition at the bore.

If anyone knows definitively whether the J37 is Nikasil or hypereutectic aluminum, please share.

JM2010 SH-AWD

From the Acura news archive: "The 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD® cylinder liners are made of high-silicon aluminum and are cast directly into the aluminum block. The hard piston ring sealing surface of the liners is created during manufacturing with a mechanical etching process that exposes silicon particles embedded in the sleeves. The aluminum sleeves provide better cooling thus allowing closer piston-to-cylinder clearance than iron liners afford. The alloy liners also improve heat dissipation in the area between adjacent cylinder bores, allowing the SH-AWD® engine to have larger cylinder bores, even though its bore-center dimensions (the distance between the centers of adjacent bores) is the same as the 3.5L V-6."

yzmuddereffer

OK, not Nikasil then. Since at least one fix from Honda is replacing the small blocks, that suggests the company has determined the hypereutectic bores are at fault. I'm surprised there isn't a better and cheaper solution, though, such as a different piston and/or ring design.

Sorry for the double post before. I looked for a way to delete it, but found none.

ABDomega

I was under the impression that the practice of replacing the shortblock has been replaced more recently by replacing the pistons and rings.

yzmuddereffer

If so -- and if it's showing results, obviously -- that would give me more confidence in the engine.

6SpeedTL

After having no luck with an oil consumption test as the car was burning slightly less than 1 quart per 1K I decided to give the seafoam a try as I will take any improvement at this point.

Im happy and quite surprised to say after spraying a whole can thru the throttle body, driving for a few days and then changing the oil with Castrol 0-40w I did not have any oil loss after 1100 miles of driving. Oil level was same on dipstick as when I changed the oil.

I will say the amount of "smoke" that came out of my exhaust during the first five minutes of driving after the seafoam was crazy. I practically engulfed my entire neighborhood in smog.

Will report back after 2000 mile.