Acceleration Lag is Killing Me....Tell Me it Gets Better!
06-09-2012, 03:26 PM
#41
Burning Brakes
'12 SH-AWD Auto - about to turn 8K miles
Usually drive in S with paddles, but recently performed an ECU reset after the first oil change
Drove the car HARD in D for around half an hour after reconnecting battery. Drives completely different now, hangs onto gears longer when I punch it. However, as has been stated the transmission is programmed for optimal mpg.
When performing california rolls, or slowing down for traffic/curves the car will NOT downshift unless you punch the pedal. If you want good starts in D you need to be below 5 mph to force the tranny back to 1st. More oft than not you'll slow down to around 10mph, and push the pedal to go and you're stuck in 3rd around 1500 rpm....tap that paddle and get back in the action. Once you learn the tricks with the auto, you'll be pleased and really enjoy the car. You can even achieve decent mileage in S mode as long as you're conscious of rpm.
Usually drive in S with paddles, but recently performed an ECU reset after the first oil change
Drove the car HARD in D for around half an hour after reconnecting battery. Drives completely different now, hangs onto gears longer when I punch it. However, as has been stated the transmission is programmed for optimal mpg.
When performing california rolls, or slowing down for traffic/curves the car will NOT downshift unless you punch the pedal. If you want good starts in D you need to be below 5 mph to force the tranny back to 1st. More oft than not you'll slow down to around 10mph, and push the pedal to go and you're stuck in 3rd around 1500 rpm....tap that paddle and get back in the action. Once you learn the tricks with the auto, you'll be pleased and really enjoy the car. You can even achieve decent mileage in S mode as long as you're conscious of rpm.
I think all manufacturers do this to save gas. Unfortunately this type of programming results in some driveability issues.
06-11-2012, 06:08 AM
#42
Instructor
My wife recently got an 09 TL SH-AWD Tech 5AT a few days ago. Having an 07 Type-S myself, naturally my first order of business was to reset the ECU but didn't know how to go about it since it has no key. After playing with it for a bit, I noticed if you hit the start button without putting your foot on the brake pedal, it puts the power in "ACC" mode... and hit it again for "ON" mode. That was the answer I needed for the reset.
For those not familiar with the process...
1) Put the car in "ON" mode (don't start the engine)
2) Push the gas pedal all the way down for about 30 sec. (some say 10 or 15 but it doesn't hurt to go 30 just in case)
3) With the pedal still down turn the car off (for those with a key...don't take it out. For those without a key...just hit the start button again.)
4) Once the power is off, release the pedal.
That should do it... at least that's how it works in my car anyway. My wife reports a more responsive throttle although I haven't driven it for myself. I did the reset without telling her I did it so as to avoid over-thinking it when she drove it. I asked her how it drove the next day and that's when she said it was more responsive, so I assume it worked.
If you haven't tried resetting your ECU yet, I would highly recommend it. It will breath new life into your car again. Especially if you bought used like we did. I do a reset about once a month on mine and I always notice the difference.
Oh... and I know you guys always like pics, so...
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For those not familiar with the process...
1) Put the car in "ON" mode (don't start the engine)
2) Push the gas pedal all the way down for about 30 sec. (some say 10 or 15 but it doesn't hurt to go 30 just in case)
3) With the pedal still down turn the car off (for those with a key...don't take it out. For those without a key...just hit the start button again.)
4) Once the power is off, release the pedal.
That should do it... at least that's how it works in my car anyway. My wife reports a more responsive throttle although I haven't driven it for myself. I did the reset without telling her I did it so as to avoid over-thinking it when she drove it. I asked her how it drove the next day and that's when she said it was more responsive, so I assume it worked.
If you haven't tried resetting your ECU yet, I would highly recommend it. It will breath new life into your car again. Especially if you bought used like we did. I do a reset about once a month on mine and I always notice the difference.
Oh... and I know you guys always like pics, so...
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
07-11-2012, 06:19 PM
#44
07-12-2012, 07:26 AM
#47
07-12-2012, 11:40 AM
#49
Now, without even thinking about it, I drop the car into "S" before I mash the throttle to the floor.
07-12-2012, 11:50 AM
#50
I wish I had known this before. I was contemplating taking it in before I came across this thread.
07-12-2012, 11:52 AM
#51
One other thing. Make sure you have your radio code before you disconnect your negative battery cable. I didn't have mine and had to call the dealership. The service manager walked me through it over the phone, though and all is good.
07-12-2012, 07:09 PM
#52
This sounds like the programming on my G. I just got the latest TSB applied, which fixes the "lag" you are referring to. After the flash the car drives totally different, in the positive.
I think all manufacturers do this to save gas. Unfortunately this type of programming results in some driveability issues.
I think all manufacturers do this to save gas. Unfortunately this type of programming results in some driveability issues.
07-12-2012, 07:11 PM
#53
Immediately. I mashed the throttle to the floor from a dead stop this morning, immediately after resetting it and it threw me back into the seat like it hasn't done in a long time.
I wish I had known this before. I was contemplating taking it in before I came across this thread.
I wish I had known this before. I was contemplating taking it in before I came across this thread.
still have that awful pause.
07-13-2012, 09:30 AM
#55
Burning Brakes
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The ECU reset will help, but ultimately the only way you're going to get instant response with the auto is to utilize the paddles in S mode. Once you master it, you won't return to D, or as I call it, grocery store mode
07-13-2012, 10:28 AM
#56
Suzuka Master
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For what its worth the JB4 on my car has a thing called "lag fix" adjustable from 0 (stock) to 100 (no delay) so its most likely a programming issue that a new Honda factory flash might cure if you complain about it.
07-14-2012, 10:40 PM
#57
I started this thread a while back and did the reset myself. While things are definitely better than pre-reset, the lag is still present if you drive the car like a RWD car (I was a previous G35 driver). The key I've found is to get over the tire-chirping starts from a dead stop and press the gas only after easing into first a bit. The other time the lag is noticeable is when slowing down into a right turn (like at a light) and then pressing the gas. If not done properly the car hangs in too high of a gear as noted by others in this thread. This is when being in S mode definitely helps.
On a side note, be careful what you wish for. I've managed to work my MPG down to around 15-17 on average (base 2012 TL). Yikes! Then again, I am almost 100% city with very few coasting stretches to average it higher. Even on the highway my MPG is usually around 26-27 since the reset where it was 30+ before. Possibly just the effect of A/C though since it is summer in TX.
On a side note, be careful what you wish for. I've managed to work my MPG down to around 15-17 on average (base 2012 TL). Yikes! Then again, I am almost 100% city with very few coasting stretches to average it higher. Even on the highway my MPG is usually around 26-27 since the reset where it was 30+ before. Possibly just the effect of A/C though since it is summer in TX.
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englishtony2002 (08-17-2013)
07-15-2012, 08:52 AM
#59
My M3 is drive by wire as well and the lag seems to be minimal. Interestingly there is a option for a sport button. When depressed, it totally eliminates any lag because it changes the throttle position. Makes it super sensitive.
04-16-2013, 08:40 PM
#60
Sorry to revive this older thread, but is the previous poster correct with how to reset the ECU via the gas pedal vs disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a 4G???
04-17-2013, 07:48 AM
#61
Drive it in sport mode around town and in traffic. Regular mode keeps it geared as low as possible to increase MPG. It tends to bog when you throttle on. Sport mode gives you much more precise acceleration
Not an issue, just learn how to use the car
Not an issue, just learn how to use the car
04-17-2013, 12:24 PM
#62
Burning Brakes
I rarely "punch it", so the regular, run-of-the-mill lag being discussed is, I think, outside of my concerns. When I need a bit more, I use "S" mode, and that does the trick for me. I don't race...if I did, frankly I'd be looking at a different car.
Lately, however, I've been experiencing a different kind of "lag". It's particularly noticeable when I’m slowing down, and then accelerating prior to coming to a stop. For instance, slowing for the red light, and then it turns green before stopping, so hitting the gas. The “lag”, if you want to call it that, feels like a gearing change, as I’ll actually be pitched forward, and it takes a second for the gas to kick in and puch me back into the seat.
I’ve done the torque converter recall, but I’m wondering if this is a symptom of it having damaged something before the reprogramming. Unfortunately, I don’t know enough about TC function to be able to tell. If it is that, at least the warranty for this has been extended (as my comprehensive expired a few weeks back).
Lately, however, I've been experiencing a different kind of "lag". It's particularly noticeable when I’m slowing down, and then accelerating prior to coming to a stop. For instance, slowing for the red light, and then it turns green before stopping, so hitting the gas. The “lag”, if you want to call it that, feels like a gearing change, as I’ll actually be pitched forward, and it takes a second for the gas to kick in and puch me back into the seat.
I’ve done the torque converter recall, but I’m wondering if this is a symptom of it having damaged something before the reprogramming. Unfortunately, I don’t know enough about TC function to be able to tell. If it is that, at least the warranty for this has been extended (as my comprehensive expired a few weeks back).
04-17-2013, 01:17 PM
#63
Racer
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Lately, however, I've been experiencing a different kind of "lag". It's particularly noticeable when I’m slowing down, and then accelerating prior to coming to a stop. For instance, slowing for the red light, and then it turns green before stopping, so hitting the gas. The “lag”, if you want to call it that, feels like a gearing change, as I’ll actually be pitched forward, and it takes a second for the gas to kick in and puch me back into the seat.
I’ve done the torque converter recall, but I’m wondering if this is a symptom of it having damaged something before the reprogramming.
I’ve done the torque converter recall, but I’m wondering if this is a symptom of it having damaged something before the reprogramming.
04-17-2013, 02:36 PM
#64
[quote=sockpuppet;14430978]I rarely "punch it", so the regular, run-of-the-mill lag being discussed is, I think, outside of my concerns. quote]
My issue is also not when I "punch it". Actually, when I do that from a dead stop, my car feels great even in D mode.
Mine is more when I'm driving 'normally' or not hard from a dead stop. If I go off the line and accelerate slowly, I feel like it shifts into second gear way too soon and it feels like a blip or a roll into second gear when I'm wanting more power or rev. The other time I feel a lag is if I'm in a slow lane of traffic on the highway so I'm doing say 60km/hr and then I pull out in the faster lane and give it some go - it hesitates initially and then goes.
Maybe this is normal - but just seems odd to me. Hoping an ECU reset will fix. I bought mine used with 10,000km (it now has 20,000km) so maybe it still thinks I drive like the original owner (or maybe we both just drive like old ladies)...
My issue is also not when I "punch it". Actually, when I do that from a dead stop, my car feels great even in D mode.
Mine is more when I'm driving 'normally' or not hard from a dead stop. If I go off the line and accelerate slowly, I feel like it shifts into second gear way too soon and it feels like a blip or a roll into second gear when I'm wanting more power or rev. The other time I feel a lag is if I'm in a slow lane of traffic on the highway so I'm doing say 60km/hr and then I pull out in the faster lane and give it some go - it hesitates initially and then goes.
Maybe this is normal - but just seems odd to me. Hoping an ECU reset will fix. I bought mine used with 10,000km (it now has 20,000km) so maybe it still thinks I drive like the original owner (or maybe we both just drive like old ladies)...
04-17-2013, 03:01 PM
#65
Burning Brakes
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ECU reset will help, but only for a while, and most of it will be in your head because you know you just reset it. The fact is the car is programmed for max MPG, and D is grocery store mode. All the new rides seem to suffer from it, and is exactly why just about all of them come with some type of Sport mode now.
However, you can beat it by paddling down in the scenarios you've described. The red turning green when you're at about 10mph has happened to everyone. Just tap the downshift paddle and you'll be a much happier camper even in D.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate the paddles. I can't stand driving cars without them. I get in my GF's camry and I feel like the slowest car on the road
However, you can beat it by paddling down in the scenarios you've described. The red turning green when you're at about 10mph has happened to everyone. Just tap the downshift paddle and you'll be a much happier camper even in D.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate the paddles. I can't stand driving cars without them. I get in my GF's camry and I feel like the slowest car on the road
04-18-2013, 06:06 AM
#66
When moving along down the highway with the tranny running in high gear, and the motor running in as low a rpm as possible to get max. mpg, this not a good time to "mash" the accelerator pedal to the floor. If you don't get the engine rpms up first before attempting a pass, you will "lug" your engine. That creates large loads on your engine crankshaft and bearings. It is not good for the engine and is the reason car owner's manuals warn to avoid doing it.
So allow more time to make a pass safely, or downshift first, or wait on the tranny to do it.
So allow more time to make a pass safely, or downshift first, or wait on the tranny to do it.
Last edited by Little Gator; 04-18-2013 at 06:08 AM.
04-18-2013, 11:25 AM
#67
Sounds like people are complaining more about the lack of the transmission shifting quickly enough to a lower gear. This is the issue I've always had with automatic cars. We had a 2006 TL and it wasn't as bad, but the issue was still there. It seemed to never want to get to the lowest possible gear fast enough when you needed quick acceleration. We replaced that with a 2012 Jeep GC with the V8 and that is even worse. I can floor that going 40mph to get through a yellow light and it takes what seems like forever to actually get down to 2nd gear. All this maximize mpg nonsense has really ruined cars. The worst part is it's getting harder and harder to find anything with a manual transmission option anymore.
02-26-2015, 08:13 PM
#68
2nd Gear
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Same here
I'm going to hit 1000 miles on my new 2012 Fwd TL and I'm really disappointed with the way the gas pedal responds to me punching it. I used to own a G35 and that car was predictable when stepping on it to pass people, etc. The TL provides a very noticeable pause upon acceleration and it's driving me nuts... I can't merge confidently into fast traffic if the freaking power won't get to the wheels instantly. It does this all over the place.... just accelerating from 20 to 40 for example... I have to ease the pedal to keep the power constant. If I press just a little too hard I get a lag and then a boost. Winds up being jerky and not at all like driving the old G.
Apparently I didn't drive the car hard enough during the test drive, but I'm really surprised by this and figured I'd see more comments to this effect if it was a standard "problem" or complaint. Do I just have to get used to this?
Apparently I didn't drive the car hard enough during the test drive, but I'm really surprised by this and figured I'd see more comments to this effect if it was a standard "problem" or complaint. Do I just have to get used to this?
Have you been able to find a way to fix that or has anyone? I feel like maybe adjusting the throttle or the ecu could make throttle response more abrupt.
02-26-2015, 09:26 PM
#69
I did experience this on my test drive of a AWD automatic. Which really turned me off to the 4G initially. Thankfully, I do not feel any lag at all though on my 6 Speed manual.
I feel a little lag on my MDX but dont care as much because I view that as more of a family cruiser.
I feel a little lag on my MDX but dont care as much because I view that as more of a family cruiser.
02-26-2015, 10:27 PM
#70
Intermediate
I think that the "issue" is that the ECU learns your driving style and adapts the programing to achieve optimal fuel efficiency in D mode. This lag you experience is the computer wanting to stay in the highest gear because of fuel economy. If you want the best response just shift it into S mode and either let it shift by itself or use the paddle shifters.
Resetting by unplugging the battery is only a temporary fix as the ECU will begin the learning process all over again.
Resetting by unplugging the battery is only a temporary fix as the ECU will begin the learning process all over again.
02-27-2015, 08:38 AM
#71
I did experience this on my test drive of a AWD automatic. Which really turned me off to the 4G initially. Thankfully, I do not feel any lag at all though on my 6 Speed manual.
I feel a little lag on my MDX but dont care as much because I view that as more of a family cruiser.
I feel a little lag on my MDX but dont care as much because I view that as more of a family cruiser.
07-26-2017, 11:15 AM
#72
Coming from a 350z that I've driven for 8 years the lag can be so irritating... it's just the transmission shifting all the way up to 5th gear as soon as possible. You can paddle shift in normal D as well so I've found that down shifting before passing via the paddle shifter makes all the difference and it's exactly what I'd do if I were driving a stick... after a second or two the transmission takes over again... or if you hold down the up shift paddle it'll cancel the temporary paddle control... using the paddles in normal Drive I no longer have any lag when passing etc and in fact I really enjoy the extreme level of control you can have...
Also, Kbiz's last post was June of 2014. So he probably won't be answering.....
07-26-2017, 02:19 PM
#74
He's talking about leaving "manual" mode in D, where it just shows the gear number and not the "M". It will revert to automatic by itself anyway, but you can speed it up by holding the upshift paddle.
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