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2012 TL - Timing Chain or Timing Belt ?

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Old 08-21-2011, 11:01 PM
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2012 TL - Timing Chain or Timing Belt ?

Just checking, as far as I know most new car has already have timing chain for better durability nowadays... What does TL have?

If it is a belt, at what miles they need to be replaced and what is the fee ?
Old 08-21-2011, 11:05 PM
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the TL uses timing belts.. im pretty sure all acuras beside the TSX uses timing belt.

timing belt is smoother than timing chain. you would have to replace the belt at 105k. and cost varies depending where you get it done at. usually 1k for oem parts
Old 08-22-2011, 06:13 AM
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105K...more like 60K...Yes OP TL has a belt
Old 08-22-2011, 08:28 PM
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its 105Kmi or until your MID tells you, usually denoted with a "4".

60Kmi change for timing belt is ONLY for those driving in harsh super cold or super hot conditions on a regular basis. the majority fall under the 105K mi interval. unless there is something else in the 2012 manual that says otherwise.

you can get OEM parts for around $300. the labor is what will get you. TB with parts/labor and while you're in there change the water pump...over $1K at an acura dealer. honda dealers will often run specials for $7-800 for the same job.
Old 08-22-2011, 10:12 PM
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isn't most new cars use the chain now ?? Why acura still choose to use the belt ?
Old 08-22-2011, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by shb
isn't most new cars use the chain now ?? Why acura still choose to use the belt ?
Because they have been using the same engine for the last 10 years. Most new engines that haven't been used in previous generations are timing chains.
Old 08-23-2011, 09:27 AM
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J motor = Timing Belt.
TBelt/Water Pump/Valve Adjust/plugs/EGR Cleanup/newmain seals @ 100k. It's religion.
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Pseudomaniac
J motor = Timing Belt.
TBelt/Water Pump/Valve Adjust/plugs/EGR Cleanup/newmain seals @ 100k. It's religion.
Pardon my ignorance, but could you explain the "new main seals" part?
Old 08-23-2011, 10:02 AM
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Main seal goes around where the crank exists the block and mates up to the trans. While newer materials and better tolerances have made these last longer, any time I pull one of these apart to do tbelt/pump or any kind of motor swap, I inspect the seal between the trans and the block for any signs of fluid. If there's even a HINT - it's new main seal time.
Old 08-23-2011, 03:12 PM
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But that's at the other end of the engine from the belt. Plus you have to disconnect the transmission from the engine to get at the rear main seal. Why would you ever do that before there was a real problem?
Old 03-13-2014, 07:58 PM
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What's the definition of excessive heat or cold?
Old 03-13-2014, 08:31 PM
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hmm

Originally Posted by shb
isn't most new cars use the chain now ?? Why acura still choose to use the belt ?
I don't know about you but I put eight thousand miles on my car a year so in about 10 years I will worry about it or 12 years roughly
Old 03-13-2014, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ron3.7
I don't know about you but I put eight thousand miles on my car a year so in about 10 years I will worry about it or 12 years roughly
At least you may want to remove the covers and inspect the belt after 4-5 years. If it shows signs of oil or coolant contamination then its time to replace regardless. If it is hard as a rock and not soft enough, thats signs of trouble. Means it has swallowed a lot of water or oil and it may snap. Also, regardless of miles you may want to temporarily remove it from the pulleys to be able to hand-rotate the water pump pulley and see if it freely rotates or stumbles somewhere. Thats also not good news.

Just some thoughts.
Old 03-14-2014, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonyware
At least you may want to remove the covers and inspect the belt after 4-5 years. If it shows signs of oil or coolant contamination then its time to replace regardless. If it is hard as a rock and not soft enough, thats signs of trouble. Means it has swallowed a lot of water or oil and it may snap. Also, regardless of miles you may want to temporarily remove it from the pulleys to be able to hand-rotate the water pump pulley and see if it freely rotates or stumbles somewhere. Thats also not good news.

Just some thoughts.
Thanks for the heads up but since I work at Acura as a mechanic for the last 15 years I've checked a bunch of them at 50k 60k 75k and all seem ok to me if they look cracked or dry rotted or shiney as hell I give the customer or service rep a heads up.
Old 03-14-2014, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ron3.7
Thanks for the heads up but since I work at Acura as a mechanic for the last 15 years I've checked a bunch of them at 50k 60k 75k and all seem ok to me if they look cracked or dry rotted or shiney as hell I give the customer or service rep a heads up.
Oh! Good to know. I am probably going to change mine by the end of the summer and I may have a few questions. The process in the shop manual appears to be the same as any other J engine. But, I do remember when I removed the timing belt from my old 03 Accord (J30A4), the rear cam pulley turned to the left and I had to remove the intake manifold and rear valve cover to get to the rocker arm shaft and loosen up that to move the pulley back to top dead center. I wonder if the same happens with the J37A4 engines? I was told this is not happening on the MDX J35 ones. Thats a lot of work btw.
Old 03-14-2014, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ron3.7
I don't know about you but I put eight thousand miles on my car a year so in about 10 years I will worry about it or 12 years roughly
Age is FAR worse on the belt than miles. I would have Zero issues driving on a belt that was 4 years old with 200k (in fact i have 2 times now and the belt still looked like new), I would have a problem driving on a belt that was 10 years old and only 20k miles.
Old 03-14-2014, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonyware
At least you may want to remove the covers and inspect the belt after 4-5 years. If it shows signs of oil or coolant contamination then its time to replace regardless. If it is hard as a rock and not soft enough, thats signs of trouble. Means it has swallowed a lot of water or oil and it may snap. Also, regardless of miles you may want to temporarily remove it from the pulleys to be able to hand-rotate the water pump pulley and see if it freely rotates or stumbles somewhere. Thats also not good news.

Just some thoughts.
If you are going to go thru the trouble of "temporarily" removing it to do that, half the battle is over and you might as well at least buy a new belt and put it on.
Old 03-14-2014, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonyware
Oh! Good to know. I am probably going to change mine by the end of the summer and I may have a few questions. The process in the shop manual appears to be the same as any other J engine. But, I do remember when I removed the timing belt from my old 03 Accord (J30A4), the rear cam pulley turned to the left and I had to remove the intake manifold and rear valve cover to get to the rocker arm shaft and loosen up that to move the pulley back to top dead center. I wonder if the same happens with the J37A4 engines? I was told this is not happening on the MDX J35 ones. Thats a lot of work btw.
You shouldnt have had to do any of that, you can just rotate it back into position. There will be resistance but that is just the valve springs. Just line up the cam gear marks with the backing plate.
Old 03-15-2014, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
You shouldnt have had to do any of that, you can just rotate it back into position. There will be resistance but that is just the valve springs. Just line up the cam gear marks with the backing plate.
I tried. Too much worried not to break anything. Actually its a good thing I removed the covers and gave her a good valve lash adjustment too (my back hurt for weeks after that day!). Also you should have seen how badly clogged with carbs the EGR passage was in the manifold of a 6 year old J30A4 with 160k km on.

But the biggest challenge actually was to remove that crank pulley bolt. After trying with cheater bar and that crank tool and my own air impact tools... I just drove to a mechanic and asked him to remove it, lube it and put it back on so I can get back home and do the rest. His impact wrench had over 1,000 ft/lb torque so that did the trick, but he had to try and try again too.
Old 03-15-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonyware
I tried. Too much worried not to break anything. Actually its a good thing I removed the covers and gave her a good valve lash adjustment too (my back hurt for weeks after that day!). Also you should have seen how badly clogged with carbs the EGR passage was in the manifold of a 6 year old J30A4 with 160k km on.

But the biggest challenge actually was to remove that crank pulley bolt. After trying with cheater bar and that crank tool and my own air impact tools... I just drove to a mechanic and asked him to remove it, lube it and put it back on so I can get back home and do the rest. His impact wrench had over 1,000 ft/lb torque so that did the trick, but he had to try and try again too.
You wouldnt have broken anything. Just put a wrench on the bolt and turn it.


The starter method works great for breaking that bolt free.
Old 03-17-2014, 06:54 AM
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Interesting... My 2002 RSX uses a Timing Chain (oh those are the K20 motors). Ah well some expense to expect down the road.
Old 03-17-2014, 07:37 AM
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^ i thought we cleared that up....lol some one didnt read...
the 4 cylinder K series uses a timing chain.
while the 6 cylinder J series engine uses a belt.

both of these engines have been in use for over 10 years.
Old 03-18-2014, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
^ i thought we cleared that up....lol some one didnt read...
the 4 cylinder K series uses a timing chain.
while the 6 cylinder J series engine uses a belt.

both of these engines have been in use for over 10 years.
Yes I missed the J series point, and if you read how I wrote my post, I wrote it then corrected myself basically saying oh yea those RSXs are Ks and TLs are Js.

But anyways back to the topic at hand
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:52 AM
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The consensus is???

I have an 09 TL .. roughly 53k miles. Time belt change?? yes? no? Water pump? yes? no? How about plugs??? Cost estmiate is......????

Does anyone know if the dirver seat can be changed to a more recent year model??

Thank you all..
Old 04-21-2014, 10:56 AM
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^timing belt's are changed at about 105k, when your on board computer flashes a '4'
you, sir, have a LONG way too go.

if you're wondering, I only have 69k miles on my 2006 TL and will not change the timing belt until a '4' flashes on my dash.
at my current pace, it will take a long time to reach 105k....
Old 04-21-2014, 11:19 AM
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In the 09 TL Manual

Replace spark plugs...Replace timing belt and inspect water pump
If you drive regularly in very high temperatures (over 110°F, 43°C), or in very low temperatures (under 20°F, 29°C), replace every 60,000 miles (U.S.)/ 100,000 km (Canada). Inspect valve clearance
Old 04-21-2014, 12:54 PM
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^it is very unlikely that your car went under those EXTREME conditions.
I live in Texas where the temps can reach 110 degrees on a daily basis during the summer months.
but, I have no worries for my 2006, as it does not see EXTREME temps.
i can assure you, your car hasnt seen extreme temps on a daily basis.
Old 04-21-2014, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ron3.7
Thanks for the heads up but since I work at Acura as a mechanic for the last 15 years I've checked a bunch of them at 50k 60k 75k and all seem ok to me if they look cracked or dry rotted or shiney as hell I give the customer or service rep a heads up.
Since they are a rubber-based product, age deterioration (ozone) will eventually get it if you don't run the miles out on it first. Also as another poster commented, Honda dealers are equally qualified to do the job and quite often offer discounts you won't find at your Acura dealer. - - always, always replace the water pump while you're that far torn down.
Old 04-21-2014, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
^it is very unlikely that your car went under those EXTREME conditions.
I live in Texas where the temps can reach 110 degrees on a daily basis during the summer months.
but, I have no worries for my 2006, as it does not see EXTREME temps.
i can assure you, your car hasnt seen extreme temps on a daily basis.
I too live in Texas (Houston). While we occasionally have wet bulb temperatures above 115 and brutal traffic, the ambient rarely reaches 100. I would say "extreme" temps would be those you encounter out in Death Valley/Mojave desert.
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