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Why say that? To those of us who have been following your progress, I don't think it matters if it's the most popular thread. I think you've demonstrated, to me, that your thread is worth my time. And thanks, I've enjoyed learning from you - I just wish I had more to offer you, with regards to advice.
Keep up the good fight, and please keep us updated. Good luck!
I recently bought one for 14,000. It has 56,xxx miles on it. (2009 Acura TL SH-AWD w/Tech)
Nice pickup, you should have a couple hundred thousand more miles to put on it. Enjoy it!
Originally Posted by rockstar143
Funny, I ended up doing a budget buy/build on a higher mileage Audi A3 and I had you in the back of my mind.
Every purchase I've made for the car, save for the new grill, has been for functional improvement only. Gotta keep costs down!
Thanks for sharing, man...love the breakdown.
I'm lazy to add to my own spreadsheet, what was that total of the year since you got it?
It needed $330 of stuff since 9/27 of last year. That includes the ATF fluid and synthetic oil change. For almost a year of maint. that isn't bad to me. Actually it's under $300 because I received a refund from Sherwin Williams dupli-color (I didn't ask for it, just called them to find out why it was such a different color, gave them some pics and they sent me a check).
Total with everything that it needed: $9399
The tools I'll use again I'm sure, also included the stuff that I wanted that it really didn't need. Including that stuff I'm @ $10,405
Why say that? To those of us who have been following your progress, I don't think it matters if it's the most popular thread. I think you've demonstrated, to me, that your thread is worth my time. And thanks, I've enjoyed learning from you - I just wish I had more to offer you, with regards to advice.
Keep up the good fight, and please keep us updated. Good luck!
Thanks for the comments. You are right It shouldn't matter. I'm really not sure why I said that other than coming to the realization that I've had the car for a year now and the thread really isn't what I had hoped that it would turn into when I first created it. It would have been nice to start "modding" more from the start, instead its really a bunch of maintenance. Shortly after I bought it i started thinking that I don't want to pour a lot of $$ into the thing until I trust it. I think I'm getting there, until the next thing breaks. Hopefully I've gotten rid of the little bugs and start feeling more comfortable doing what I've wanted to do from the beginning.
I did fix the gash in the front, came out pretty smooth and cant tell it was there
Before:
After:
I had 1 can of Dupli-color left so I tried to "Blend" the center and stay away from where it meets the fender. No go.. It's almost impossible to blend well with a rattle can.
I picked up the $9 special Harbor freight HVLP. I just used it to stain some chairs and it works very well. I'm impressed and am not sure why this was only $9. Since I have it, I'm really tempted to give it a try on the OEM bumper(the whole bumper with the correct paint of course).
Pay someone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL...
Yeah, even with a good gun, it's almost impossible to blend a spot on a panel/bumper...you have to blend ONTO the next panel.
Quick question to the OP with this many miles did you ever have any issues with the propellor shaft? Seems like with that much mileage you would have experienced the bearing failure
Pay someone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL...
Yeah, even with a good gun, it's almost impossible to blend a spot on a panel/bumper...you have to blend ONTO the next panel.
I know I can break out the wallet, but that's too easy! I like doing things the hard way lol.
While spraying those chairs I was amazed how differently the HVLP sprays, like 10x better than a rattle can. I've never used a spray gun before and now I'm a little more confident I can tackle it, even with a shitty HF gun :-) I didn't even spring for the HF pro automotive gun(this one was $9 so I thought why not).
The blend that I tried was just from the center of the bumper out to where it starts to curve on the sides. I tried this because the center of the bumper would match the grille and the color difference that is most noticeable is where the bumper and fender meet. I steered clear of that area because the OEM bumper already(kind of) matches the fender.
Originally Posted by SHMasta
How did you fix that gash so perfectly?
Also your paint skills are pretty good, that gun was really cheap though I would worry about its spray pattern and spraying even coats.
Bondo and sand sand and more sanding - primer and sanding sanding... lots of sanding...
Originally Posted by MOBB212
Quick question to the OP with this many miles did you ever have any issues with the propellor shaft? Seems like with that much mileage you would have experienced the bearing failure
I have a FWD, just the halfshafts up front with no issues yet. I think AWD might have some potential issues there.
The car gets lots of use, but we just don't rack up the miles with our in-town driving. Just hit 40% recently for oil on the display. I know I wanted to change it @ 5200 miles for the Blackstone Labs test however I didn't mark the mileage anywhere when I changed it. I was @ 230,500 in December, now I'm @ 235,100. Almost time...
Well I finally got around to an oil change and I sent in the Blackstone Labs sample today. I have about 6k miles on the oil instead of the 5200 to compare against universal averages #'s. Darn winter came and didn't feel like doing an oil change in the cold.
Some other things I've done since my last post(it's been a while I know, life gets in the way).
$13 K&N Knockoff, looks like the same thing. Quality of this filter is actually pretty good. Can't tell a difference between a K&N and this thing.
$130 AGM Battery - Autocraft Platinum(the odyssey needed a new battery, they had 2 in stock with fresh- same month dates so I picked one up for the TL as well).
She's still running well! I'll post the report from the oil analysis when I get it back.
Blackstone Labs Oil Report came back today. Here it is. I'm not sure what to make of it, but it sounds like its not bad? Sodium is a bit high, feel like I just got back from a blood draw and the Dr. is on my case. They want me to go 8k miles next time, I guess that means a year an a half til the next oil change :-)
I know right? This was interesting for a one time deal, but I've gotta say I don't think I got much out of this report. Am I really going to test my oil again to see if I have less sodium? No
I'd rather spend the $ on more frequent oil changes.
I know right? This was interesting for a one time deal, but I've gotta say I don't think I got much out of this report. Am I really going to test my oil again to see if I have less sodium? No
I'd rather spend the $ on more frequent oil changes.
It lets you know a few things -
1. Your oil is maintaining its consistency and is still functioning as expected.
2. Your motor doesn't show any signs of damage/worn parts that got sucked into the oil
So 6.6K miles is a perfectly acceptable oil change interval and you could even go further (hence the 8K recommendation). So yeah, if you're good with the results then just stick to a ~7k mile oil change and you'll know your motor is still properly lubricated.
1. Your oil is maintaining its consistency and is still functioning as expected.
2. Your motor doesn't show any signs of damage/worn parts that got sucked into the oil
So 6.6K miles is a perfectly acceptable oil change interval and you could even go further (hence the 8K recommendation). So yeah, if you're good with the results then just stick to a ~7k mile oil change and you'll know your motor is still properly lubricated.
Thx man, It is nice to know it's all good still and for peace of mind on an engine with almost a 1/4 million miles. 6-7k is probably the yearly mileage that this car will get with our in-town driving. I think I need to do another one late this summer so I can have my yearly change during good weather every year :-) Or maybe I can push it to early summer 2019 with this oil.
I say you did good. Even through the worst fixes, I still am OBSESSED with my car. Its STUNNING to look at, it drives like a dream. 200k+ miles on a Honda or Acura is nothing. I plan to drive my car WELL into the high hundred thousands.
You did good and you got a STEAL of a deal when you consider the joy this car will bring you.
A few days ago the wife heard a squeal when applying the brakes, time to change something I haven't really looked at. I thought about getting all new rotors front and back and new wheels the whole thing, but really still can't find wheels I like(for the$$). I have decided on the tires DWS06 as we've had them on our Odyssey for about a year and a half and I really like them, but the wheels... still can't decide.
After replacing the front pads(Akebono PRO-ACT) and going for a test drive, the right front wheel was smooookin hot, like could cook bacon on the wheels hot.... Took it all apart again and caliper pins were rusted in place. Took a lot of work to get em out sand them down and put them back in(all i had was some anti-seize so I lubed em with that). The wear on the inside pads were way different than the outside so that should have been a clue, but now its all good.
Anyway... no more squeal :-) Happy wife happy... u know the rest
Ya, OEM take offs would be fine. 17+ BMW maybe, Cadillac too. I've been looking around craigslist etc for quite a while. It's really something I don't need(more of a want). My current DWS tires barely show the "S" for wear so I can probably get through maybe one more winter so I have some time. But it is something I can pull the trigger on whenever as they'll last as long as I have the car(we don't drive many miles with it).
I could buy used and possibly deal with bent wheels, new tpms and install. Or go tirerack route.
Here's what I kind of like(18's we have potholes everywhere - I swear the wife likes to find them and hit every one) All low pressure cast. Maybe I could do 19's that are a bit taller like 245/45R19 instead of stock 245/40R19 and be happy.
I like the weight of this Model Five, Type-S kind of look
The GT13, makes the tires appear thinner, color I'm not sure about.
Model Five, Type-S kind of look again, different color
BR13, can't go wrong with a 5 spoke right? although not concave...
These are new, I like the weight and style.
BBS, weighs a lot more, but more durable I'm guessing. I think all the others are made in china.
Hmmm...
well, I don't want to talk you out of it but...it'll defeat the purpose of keeping this TL cost effective.
That said, I just bought some take off 20's for my newly purchased project yukon.
You get done with your Audi? I may need a truck at some point as well, can't pull a boat with the TL, or the odyssey(well it probably could but). Sold our boat a few years ago and now I'm thinking we should get one again with the 4 kids.
About the tires, the thing is that I'm not sure that I can keep it cost effective on this. I mean my current TPMS are probably original and I don't want to have tires mounted with the existing ones so that's another $200/TPMS + $100 mount/balance. If i pick up some take offs that is built in. so If i find a decent set of wheels/tires 5x120 with a size that will work for say $800 I'm at $1100
If i just replace my current tires with DWS06 they are $200 for 245/50R17($800)+$100 install the 18inch is $160 each($640) +$100 install. I could get away with keeping TPMS, but I have a feeling they are about end of their life so take off and replace is another $100 if they die.
If I buy Brand new tires that I want and the low pressure cast wheels I like, It'd be $400ish more than the $1100 I would have spent on takeoffs(unless I go with the BBS which would be about $900 more). They come from tirerack already mounted/balanced etc so that saves $100. as well.
It would be nice to find some TL take offs from a 4g sh-awd 19's w/TPMS for a decent price, just haven't seen anything.
funny...I decided my cars are my hobby and I don't have to get rid of anything right now...so we have 5 cars in a 2 adult house.
Audi is fun to drive...gets 25 mpg...I'm enjoying it...S2000 does weekend duties and days I don't have to take my daughter to daycare...Caddylac is datenight and when I want to feel some power/speed...
and now the Yukon Gold is to drive over sidewalks and disobedient children and to go on road trips with the whole fam. We have 4 kids between us too...
Anyway...I just went through this in my mind too...although I'm going to go with the original TPMS since they aren't malfunctioning now. 3 bad tires and a new shitty tire on the Yukon...I said fuck it
and bought a set of takeoff 20's off a newer Denali...
discounttiredirect is running some serious mail in rebates until 5/1...take a look!
Found this diagram, and that sensor is right where you said it was :-) Looks like there is only one of them on the drivers side.
I was hoping that there were two sensors, but I was thinking about this last night... what is the result of the sensor reading? Would it be to operate the air mix motor on the drivers side depending on the reading? If so, I have taken that air mix motor off and moved it manually with same resulting temp on drivers side :-(
Hi Atomlinks,
I need to replace the HUMID*ITY in-car temperature sensor shown in this picture. Do you have the replacement page 21-94 you could send me or post it here?
Thanks in advance,
Dennis Foreman
Wow its really been a year since my last post? TL is still running well, just maint. stuff, remote start, rear brakes, finally got some new tires and wheels, nothing fancy.
I remember your thread from last year and hadn't realized it hasn't been bumped in so long... Thanks for providing an update, but really, we'd love it even more if you stop by more frequently...
You know you can post more than once a year, lmao!
Oh, BTW!
Originally Posted by Midnight Mystery
I remember your thread from last year and hadn't realized it hasn't been bumped in so long... Thanks for providing an update, but really, we'd love it even more if you stop by more frequently...
The new site looks nice, but really don't like fumbling around the new interface, scrolling through is just weird on the desktop. I don't think that is the reason I stopped posting, just realized I was spending too much time on it I think and even more with the interface change. I still stop by when I see an interesting 3AM daily email though.
Anyway, here are a couple quick pics with the new wheels.
High resolution photo...: :-)
And a closer shot while filling up with 93@ BP: Needs a wash...
Went with the 245/40-19 Conti PureContact instead of the DWS06(on sale) I would say it is a lot smoother ride, but not as much grip cornering as the DWS. I'm happy with them, and I don't have to fill up the one tire every other day(OEM wheels were pitted, bead not sealing)
These are the rotors from hell. Original after 250k.
The little screws... Impact driver, both bits broken, one stuck inside. Drilled them out...
The 2 little holes to pop the rotors off.. Riiigghhht... stripped and NO GO
Bolt/nut washer through caliper hole trick... stripped/cross threaded bolts are stuck NO GO
Sledge, pounding NO GO
Rotors from hell
Tool rental from O'reilly - Some Hope!
Still.. NO GO arrrrrgggghhh
Hours later the passenger side finally gave in. By far the most painful experience.. I moved on to the driver side and even with the puller it was a pain in the....
Are the rears going to be just as bad??? Not sure if I want to find out.
The whole reason for this is because I saw a deal on Amazon - PowerStop rear Kit with Calipers/Rotors/Pads for $86(reg. $270)
I got them in a few days and I also decided to look for the fronts, the same kit for the fronts was like $400, so I ended up picking up a set of Rotors/Calipers/Pads from Callahan.for $200
A few days later, I get a couple tracking numbers from FedEx for the Callahan front kit(from Power Stop LLC)
I had no idea Callahan was Powerstop, and when I got them I saw absolutely no difference in the quality from the more expensive kit and the $200 kit(other than one of the sets of crush washers was missing)
Curious, would heat have worked and helped?
I know it's nuts but I've actually used ratchet straps tied to a set of wheels or something next to the car
ghetto fabulous
Curious, would heat have worked and helped?
I know it's nuts but I've actually used ratchet straps tied to a set of wheels or something next to the car
ghetto fabulous
Hey Rockstar! I would have loved to have an acetylene torch! I'm sure it would have helped. Thought about getting a smaller torch from homedepot/lowes... probably would have helped a bit.. I've never had this hard of a time getting rotors off! I was trying all the tricks.. That puller did help but it did break off one side of the rotor. Glad I got the front done, but thinking about just taking it to a shop for the rear as I'm sure they'd have it done in no time...
Those that do this all the time in the rust belt.. will the rear be worse/same/easier than the fronts from experience?
release the e-brake!
Yeah dude, I had a leftover MAPP gas from Home depot that has come in handy at times.
It was fun reading your post regardless so thanks for sharing!
Funny you say that about the e-brake.. first brake job I did years ago(pre youtube) I did have the e-brake on for the rears. Before getting the 16lb sledge I released the e-brake and just a little tap with a small hammer got the job done.
These old rusty rotors on this Acura different story. I seriously thought someone welded them on as a joke.. Anyway I did call around this morning and got quotes ranging from $75-$170 to replace the rotors/pads in the rear with my parts. Some won't even use my parts...
I'll throw the new calipers on with the old brake pads and let someone else get 'em off... They will earn every part of $75 :-)
Well, It's amazing how the little stuff starts to add up after a month. I'm up to almost $10k at this point(Which was my budget for a used car). Here is the breakdown so far
The air still isn't working quite right, depends on the day. Passenger side is always cold. I still need to get the grill and bumper painted so that'll add a couple hundred $$ more.
I haven't done any work on the car for the last week or so. The wife thinks the master bath remodel is more important so I've been tearing out walls/tile, plumbing, taping and mudding. Hopefully I'll have the paint, kerdi and tile up by the end of this weekend so I can get back to the car!
Thanks for the inspiring thread, ATOM! I'm new to the 4G TL community and I thoroughly enjoyed reading your thread. I myself picked up a '09 182,000 mile 3.5L and its done well in the past two years. I've put about 14k on it so far. I'm about to hit the 200k mark and my front suspension is clunking. I know you purchased your replacement struts 5+ years ago, but i'm wondering where you got them from and how they're holding up so far. I know Tein Street Advance seem to be quite popular, but I'd like to keep costs down just like you. Please let me know as I'm having trouble finding any OEM full strut/damper assemblies as most distributors are now "discontinued."
08-30-2017, 10:37 AM
