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Sounds boring but I ordered the stock speaker to replace the blown one in the front door. Honestly I was pretty content with the stock system and the only thing that I might change would be to add a little more bass. Maybe I'll just add a small amp and sub to the system and disconnect the stock sub. From the wiring harness diagram it looks like you can tap right into the wiring by the amp that is in the trunk that runs to all of your speakers, even the fronts which would be nice if I decide to do a complete system. I'm wondering if i could tap into the A18 below and use that for the aftermarket amp's remote wire? Not sure if its hot all the time or not. Regardless I'll have to run larger gauge power from the battery...
I picked up the speaker yesterday and boy is this thing light! I would say its probably weighs the lightest for any 6 1/2 speaker I've ever held. I'm amazed how well these sound for the weight. I put the speaker in today and it took about 10-15 minutes. 3 trim pieces, 5 screws and pop it off from the bottom. I didn't have to disconnect and remove the entire panel, there is enough room to get a socket with an 8mm socket on the 1 bolt holding the speaker in from the bottom. After you remove the bolt you can pry the speaker up a little, and then lift it straight up to disconnect the wire and put the new one in.
The surround glue failed on the one I took out. Also the entire surround looked deformed. There isn't much of a lip for it to be glued to so I can see why this happened.
The basket is all plastic, the cone and suspension seemed like decent quality. The magnet is small! About the size of a quarter(a little thicker though).
I probably spent about a half hour after that listening to music(I found some old CD's in the garage that I haven't touched in about 10 years). It's really sounding great now. I'll be looking around for a small sub/amp to throw in at some point.
^ Thanks , It's not only the cheapest option but probably sounds the best running off stock amp. Low watt 2 ohm aftermarket just doesn't seem to exist. I'm happy with it :-)
I did start looking around a subs/amps to get my fix of car audio stuff :-) I took a peek @ the sub from the trunk, haven't seen any pics so I thought I'd post what it looks like back there.
Looks like some sound deadening material with a vent in the carpet for the sub to use the trunks airspace. Not sure what direction I want to go at this point but looking @ probably just one small 8 inch Sundown, Skar, DD, and mount from under the trunk or build a box and vent or push into the cabin with the existing hole. These Skar 6.5's look like they would do the trick.. for the $ sounds too good to be true but might be willing to give them a shot.
Also the Skar MA-8 looks tempting.. I've never seen them in person, but looks good. Really decent reviews on amazon, but mixed feelings about the company.
Either option might be too much with the stock mids/highs, but I can always turn it down to even it out I guess.
P0305: Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected Again! I'm glad I'm keeping track through the thread, It was just about 4 months ago when this last happened. At the time I said I was going to swap out the #5 coil so I swapped #5 and #6. I don't think this is the issue but I guess It's worth checking. If we get another #5 I can rule out the coil atleast. I also pulled the coil with the engine running and it definitely ran like sh%^ so it's still doing something at least...
While I had the 10mm out I decided to take off the upper cover to see if there was any gunk in there. I don't think it was too bad but I did clean it up a little bit. No ports totally clogged, but I did notice one issue with the black rubber piece that is just below the flap that sits in the center. That rubber piece was not straight and sitting in a straight line flush with the intake. (I'm not sure if it matter all that much, but I straightened it out and put it back on carefully.
Reset the codes and waiting for it to happen again :-)
Damn bro those little gremlins keep popping up for you =( Hopefully it's all sorted out and good to go for a few thousand miles at least =P
The speaker setup looks sweet. I can't afford the space a dedicated box would take up for a sub, I use my trunk all the time, those boxes are just too big. I'm looking into changing my stock ELS sub for something with a bigger kick. Gonna see how it's done, I've never done audio work before (tons of electrical stuff, just never messed with audio)
Damn bro those little gremlins keep popping up for you =( Hopefully it's all sorted out and good to go for a few thousand miles at least =P
The speaker setup looks sweet. I can't afford the space a dedicated box would take up for a sub, I use my trunk all the time, those boxes are just too big. I'm looking into changing my stock ELS sub for something with a bigger kick. Gonna see how it's done, I've never done audio work before (tons of electrical stuff, just never messed with audio)
This is what I signed up for buying a car with 230k :-) Just got the low oil warning again today, first time since the oil change. Oil level still @ top of dipstick and running fine. I'll finally get to put in that oil pressure switch soon, hopefully that takes care of it!
I don't want to lose a lot of trunk for the sub. I've noticed I don't really use the space near the back seat, so I'll probably come out about a foot max from the rear seat if I go the box route. Still would like to have some room for a couple of golf bags. Maybe bandpass vented through stock sub location with a fernco connector(I haven't seen this before, but I know you can buy an 8 inch fernco so I might give that a try. I've heard people have lots of rattles though the rear deck, so maybe that rubber connector between a box and the deck with some dynamat will reduce it. We'll see, the sub just took a couple of notches down on the priority list, but it's definitely on the list :-)
It looks like there are a couple of oil pressure sensors, I only purchased one(on the left I believe).
It looks like this one is the one I have, hopefully that solves the low oil warning.
I've gotten a little more worried about the cylinder #5 code though, hope it's not something major.
Lot's of maintenance so far! It's all good and I'm enjoying it :-) Although this thread is probably pretty boring with all this simple stuff :-)
I did receive another low oil warning today, so I went ahead and threw the oil pressure sensor in. It was pretty easy to do. I removed the passenger wheel, disconnected the electrical connector to the oil pressure sensor/switch. Then I took a 24mm socket and about a foot extension up top behind and below the strut brace(I did need a helper watching near the front passenger side to direct the socket for removal and install). A bit of oil came out, not a lot. Use a small amount of hondabond on the threads, put a new 50 cent gasket on and snugged it up.
The hardest and most frustrating part was trying to get the electrical connector back on the sensor @ the end. IT JUST WOULDN'T GO BACK IN. Well, I felt pretty dumb but at the same time relieved when I finally figured out why it wasn't going back in.
Here is the sensor that came out, btw I put the frustrating piece on the old sensor.
The electrical connection won't go back in with that clear plug still in, duh! lol Well hope this takes care of that warning, if not more fun I suppose :-)
Just read through all 4 pages of your work. I respect that you are doing all of the maintenance, diagnoses, and repairs yourself. We don't have a lot of high mileage 4G TL projects on here so I believe this build will become more popular as the rest of us gets closer to the mileage that you're already at and we'll soon be doing the same diagnoses and repairs. By the way, any updates on the Ebay grille and the 2012+ shield? I too am very curious on how it will come out because I'm looking to get rid of the large beak.
Just read through all 4 pages of your work. I respect that you are doing all of the maintenance, diagnoses, and repairs yourself. We don't have a lot of high mileage 4G TL projects on here so I believe this build will become more popular as the rest of us gets closer to the mileage that you're already at and we'll soon be doing the same diagnoses and repairs. By the way, any updates on the Ebay grille and the 2012+ shield? I too am very curious on how it will come out because I'm looking to get rid of the large beak.
^Thanks Just got back from a much needed vacation sorry for the late reply. I haven't done anything with the Ebay grille yet as It did come with a small chip on one of the corners and I'm not sure how I want to tackle the fix. I do have the small piece that chipped off during shipping and was thinking about putting it back on with some superglue or something but maybe adding some type of filler and shaping it/sanding it might be better. If it didn't have that small piece missing I would have already had it painted and put on. Then cold weather came and I figured that's not the best time for new paint. It is still sitting in the basement and I haven't thought about it in a while, hopefully it warms up soon so I can get it and the bumper painted and put it on!
I found the picture that I sent to the ebay seller for a partial refund. It is out of focus but can tell its just a small corner that needs repaired. I don't have really any body work experience, any input on repairing would be appreciated!
Whoever you would have paint it should be able to fix it. A little fiberglass as it should look like new .
I'll check how much extra that would cost. It's really pretty small, almost could just sand it down and do the same thing to the other side. Last time i checked it was a couple hundred to paint the bumper/grill @ macco. Local reviews are good for the shop, but not sure how I feel about a long lasting repair for repairing bodywork like that. I might just dupli-color it/bumper and put a transparent film on, not sure yet.
We had our first 1100 mile trip to St. Louis in the TL, well my wife went with my daughter. She said everything went well with the car, no system msg's since replacing the oil sensor or anything. The only thing she had a small complaint about was the air conditioning. Since it was in the 70's this weekend of course that kicked on. The passenger side is ice cold, the drivers side is almost warm. I have no idea what the problem is...
How about the blend door actuator? I wonder if that would be your problem, with regards to your AC.
Anyway, now that you've had the car for a bit, how would you say it was cared for? Do you think the oil was changed, fairly often? If you answered this, in one of your earlier posts, I apologize.
Is the blend door actuator you are thinking about the same as post #25 in this thread? In that post I took off one of the motors under the dash and it moved freely, even moving manually it wasn't cold. I have been having this A/C problem since I've had the car and it's the only issue that I can't seem to fix so far :-(
After having the car for 6+ months I still feel the same as how it was cared for. Now, are there some issues the seller(car dealer) didn't disclose? I sure think so, but that's alright. It all comes back around in some way or another :-) The carfax shows regular scheduled oil changes/car details. The car went to auction shortly after they came out with the Takada airbag issue(which I had fixed a few months ago).
I still love the car, even more after she had her first successful long trip w/o issue(except for the outstanding A/C issue)
I was hoping it was possibly another part I could check :-) I just don't know enough about the A/C system and am thoroughly confused as to what it could be. Any suggestions anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
I would think that the dual climate zone would have something to do with it; or rather the climate zone sensors. Most likely the sensor for the driver side is faulty and needs to be replaced. Probably thinks the temperature is ice cold on the driver's side which is why warm air is coming out. Try setting the temperature cold and turn on the AC for the driver side, then do the same test on the passenger side. Let us know what you find.
Thanks for the reply! A while back someone else mentioned a sensor but I'm not sure where it might be located.
Here is what I did today. Looks like the A/C is either on or off for both sides.
With the A/C on:
Turned Drivers side Max Hot, Passenger Max Cold > result is Driver side Hot, Passenger side Cold(just as it should be).
Turned drivers side Max cold, passenger Max Hot > result is Drivers side is about the same temp as outside air, passenger side is Hot.
Temp when I did this was 57 degrees F outside.
If you have a part number or something I can try looking up or a location where the sensor might be?
So I read that the Interior Temperature Sensor for the Driver Side is located by your right knee when you sit on the driver side. It has a little vent cover over it. I cannot find a part number though.
Getting there, just in time for summer!
You'll need that AC!
Still pretty mild weather still, warm will be here soon!
Originally Posted by littlelee17
So I read that the Interior Temperature Sensor for the Driver Side is located by your right knee when you sit on the driver side. It has a little vent cover over it. I cannot find a part number though.
Thanks. I called the parts dept but they were closed. Spoke to a service guy and said it wasn't a common issue so that's not good to hear.
I did a search for sensors, and looked though to find the ones with AC/ or HVAC here's the list:
I was hoping to see a left or right sensor for drivers side passenger side but not sure.. Maybe they just read temp off the drivers side and adjust the passenger side slightly from that reading? Not sure.
Its probably the same sensor on each side but plugged into ports for the control unit. Its most likely the 80590STXA02 IN Car Sensor. Have you taken the cover off to look at the sensor? That would verify the part number so you could make the call.
Found this diagram, and that sensor is right where you said it was :-) Looks like there is only one of them on the drivers side.
I was hoping that there were two sensors, but I was thinking about this last night... what is the result of the sensor reading? Would it be to operate the air mix motor on the drivers side depending on the reading? If so, I have taken that air mix motor off and moved it manually with same resulting temp on drivers side :-(
I would have thought there would be a Driver's side sensor and Passenger. However since that's not the case the air mix control motor would have to take input from the driver's side control module in order to mix hot or cold air (theoretically speaking). I am really hoping it is not the control module. That's pretty expensive.
I took the drivers mix motor off a while back and moved it by hand, still same result. I'm really not thinking sensors now that I've been reading up a little more...
Last year after I replaced the compressor and filling refrigerant to spec:
85 degree day
High Side 175
Low Side 17
Put in another ounce
High Side 200
Low Side 17
Hi Side/discharge only rising....
There is only 1 evaporator, and after reading a bit and looking @ the manual it really sounds like I have a restriction somewhere, likely on the high side I'm guessing. The condenser is something I bought to replace, but I'm also thinking I should throw in an expansion valve. That's a little more work in the passenger dash. But since the evaporator has to come out anyway, maybe I should just replace that too while I'm in there. I would think that would cover everything that carries refrigerant, except the hoses.
I really want the pressures on Hi and Low to be where they should be. The manual says @ 85 degrees I should have High side of 175-190, Low side 35-45. I can't get anywhere near that on the low side.
It's 45 degrees out right now so not the best time to be doing A/C stuff. Will try replacing the condenser and expansion valve, and maybe a new evap as well in another month or so once the weather warms up!
This is the only thing that really fit in the manual about the pressures..
Didn't say anything about passenger side cold and drivers side warm, but thinking the evap just isn't cold enough. I believe the coldest side of the evap is on the passenger side, once it makes its way to the drivers side its really not cold enough to do anything on the other side?
Last edited by atomlinks; 05-06-2017 at 07:06 PM.
Reason: Add an image
Seems like you are on the right track. Assuming the control module is working that would be the next thing to check on. I didn't know you replaced the condenser. Any hoses on the AC unit swapped?
I ordered a new evaporator core and expansion valve. Looks like I'll be cutting up the passenger dash a bit according to the replacement procedure, yay!
I'm planning on replacing the condenser(already ordered) at the same time. No hoses were changed but I suppose if this doesn't work that'll be next :-)
I guess replace it all, eventually it'll work correctly right? right? lol
Received the evaporator core today, still waiting on the expansion valve. Summit Racing made it seem like I would be able to pick it up today, but the order says back ordered so might be over a week to get it.
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
get ready to get all cut up. and also get new O-ring and that PAC oil.
Sounds like you have experience doing this! Any tips to save my hands/arms? prob will wear gloves. I have the pag oil sitting in the garage and looks like evap core came with o-rings. I also ordered a set of A/C rings various sizes from amazon. Have to figure out how much oil to add for taking each component out.
Originally Posted by myacuratl10
^^^sounds like a rough job
I hope not, anyone have total hours this might take?
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
the space is really tight and the blower motor has to come out
I replaced the blower motor in our 99 civic that we had a couple of years ago due to noise. It was pretty easy to get to. I hope this one is just as easy, but it sounds like it might not be, especially since I have to dig a lot deeper into it.
If this doesn't work, maybe I should just replace the compressor with a Rotrex and have some fun.. who needs cool air! lol Sad to see you sold your car, you still looking for a 4g shawd?
Where you able to fix it? What made you want to replace the entire system? I would think if one side was blowing cold it would be a damper getting stuck. Either way I hope its working again.
Where you able to fix it? What made you want to replace the entire system? I would think if one side was blowing cold it would be a damper getting stuck. Either way I hope its working again.
Thx for asking, Other things around the house have taken priority for now. The TL has been running great, no more msg's since the oil pressure sensor change a while back..
The A/C not running fully but I've noticed something strange. If I close the left drivers vent, run the fan on level 3, and recirculate both sides are ice cold. If I turn the blower up to full, the drivers is a lot warmer than the passengers side. That leads me to believe the coil under the passenger dash isn't getting cold enough for both sides. With the fan full blast, the passenger side of the coil cools that side down, but by the time it makes it to the other side of the coil, it's warm. Low speed seems to do the trick and can cool down the cabin nicely on an 80+ degree day. Sure it will take a few minutes but it eventually works with recirculate. I would rather have the system blow immediately cold on high speed fan like our old civic, which is why I want to replace a bunch of stuff(low cost for parts, probably lots of labor though).
First it was a clutch, so I changed out the whole compressor. It kicks on now, but still not 100% The pressures on Hi/Low(esp. Low side) are not where they should be, pointing to a restriction somewhere. Hopefully I'll get some time before summer is over to change everything out! I'll update soon hopefully~!
02-23-2017, 10:30 PM
