Jdrum1

I spent far too long diagnosing a mystery clunk on the TSX......turned out one of the sway bar enlinks (which I replaced last fall) had come lose.

While looking for the culprit, I noticed a few typical wear items that will need to be addressed at some point in the future (outer tie rods, cracked lower ball joint foot, cracked compliance bushings). Nothing that constitutes an emergency, but the typical things on a 140k+ mile car.


So, I'm struggling to condone the expense of OEM parts (I'll DIY it). What aftermarket brands should I consider for a front-end refresh?

Rock Auto has a fairly complete kit by Mevotech. I'm not familiar with the brand, but for aftermarket parts, they seem well reviewed (including a couple of positive remarks from Erik the Car Guy).

For $300, it's got inner and outer tie rods, complete lower control arms, lower ball joints, and upper control arms with ball joints. There are cheaper kits, but not anything I'd even consider.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

been in business since 1982!
that's all that convinced me to try Mevotech!

found out the company is canadian.
but cant find anything about where their parts are made and what kind of quality they are...

Jdrum1

I did a little price caparison; OEM parts will be close to $900.


It used to be simple. You had three choices; OEM, Moog, parts store.

I don't think Moog quality is what it once was. I installed a few Moog parts on my old 4Runner a few years ago, and wasn't overly impressed. I had a friend helping, that happened to be a factory trained Toyota tech, and he said he finally stopped using Moog (downgrading them to the "generic" category).

Things seem to have become skewed between the brands. When researching, you'll find various posts that lead you to believe that many brands are outsourcing the same parts from the same place (including Moog in some cases).

Regarding Mevotech, I'm guessing their parts are Chinese made (as are many Moog parts now). That said, a number of retailers I'd consider reputable are carrying them (Summit, Jegs, etc.).

green_henry

I bought some ProForged lower control arms through summitracing.com a few years ago when the compliance bushings were torn on my TSX. So far, so good, and I have always been amazed by how quickly I receive my orders from Summit.

Jdrum1

Thoughts on just replacing the lower ball joint boot? It's cracked, but not split completely through (yet). No grease escaping (unlike the outer tie rod).


This would mean I'm only looking at a boot, lower control arms, and outer tie rods.

The upper control arms looked good (only reason I'd replace them is because they are part of the kit).

Not replacing the lower ball joints would really make things easier! In fact, that would be the difference between a leisurely morning DIY, and a grueling day of labor!

BROlando

Never buy aftermarket replacement chassis parts. Never. Trust me. The small offset in cost is not worth the huge drop in quality and safety.

Buy them from an Acura discount part site. Curry acura, bernardiparts, etc.

Its strange to need replacement chassis parts at 140K (not including the compliance bushings). Usually, tie rods/ball joints last well into the 200K's. Someone probably improperly seperated your lower ball joint at one point...and that explains your torn boot.

I am using Acura TL-S compliance bushings because they are more firm/more substantially built...though the TSX ones are significantly cheaper.

Don't replace what you don't need to. I am at 160K with original ball joints/tie rods/etc.

I have a relative with 225k CITY OF CHICAGO pothole laden shitroad miles on the original chassis parts with zero slop. He has hit potholes big enough to dent the exhaust and remove the side skirt.

BROlando

My endlinks lasted 10K miles with proper greasing. I'm sure they're the same (or worse) quality than Moog or any other similar brand.

I think they all buy from the same supplier with a few small tweaks per part.

A pox on all aftermarket replacement junk.

Or maybe I am spoiled. Honda parts are built so damn well that everything else pales pretty badly in comparison.

Jdrum1

Valid points.


Really, the only thing that is a "must replace" is the outer tie rod (losing grease). The ball joint boot hasn't actually opened up (yet).



As far as things wearing out, I'm sure it's from a combination of things (including some luck). It's a used car, so who knows how it was driven. Plus, time (not just miles) takes its tole on rubber parts (Texas heat doesn't help).

If I go aftermarket, I'll likely go ahead with Moog (for their warranty).

BROlando

Moog is...not all that great.

some light reading. this isn't a problem with TSX's, ofcourse...but I have an issue when companies can't even do BASIC R&D. I would be irate if I was in this position.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/fyi-aftermarket-moog-balljoint-k500117-beware-805131/page2/#post16024941

and my own experience...which you commented on lol.
https://acurazine.com/forums/first-generation-tsx-discussion-2004-2008-124/need-replace-bushings-buy-them-acura-honda-heres-why-947256/

If you're selling the car in 20-30K, and you don't have a problem ethically, maybe moog is fine.

The warranty process involves removing the part, sending it to Moog to inspect. And then waiting for refund or replacement. They'll send you a credit or replacement to buy the same shitty part you just took off. The process will then repeat itself.

Not including paying for labour, or compensating for your own time doing said labour.

My thought is to not deal with all that shit.

I'd rather spend a few bucks more for OEM...which has already lasted 140K for you and is STILL working.

Plus, I'd rather not have a tie rod fail at 80mph. And I'd rather not have to frequently check my components out of paranoia because I know I bought junk and I have to keep making sure its not coming apart.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

oh, I would go OEM as well.
just trying to be compassionate towards budgeting $$$$$

BROlando

Get a job!

Jdrum1

So Roland, am I reading it right that you don't care for aftermarket parts?!?!

We really will weigh out all of our options (including OEM). Interestingly, there's about a $50 price difference between the left and right Acura lower control arms (from all vendors).



Just so I was 100% positive of what I needed, I took another look at the front end;

Both compliance bushings are fairly cracked (and dry),

The ball joint boot is cracked, but has yet to open up. I think I'll just plan on replacing the boot, but will thoroughly check it and bit the bullet if it's at all questionable.

The driver's outer tie rod boot is cracked through and leaking (no play, but looser than it should be). The other one looks good, but I'll replace them in pairs (inner rods seem totally fine).

BROlando

JK.

If budgeting on end links, buy the fronts for a 2nd gen. For some reason, they're way cheaper from Acura. They look the exact same. After my Mevoshits took a shit, I used 2G OEM endlinks. Been on the car now for like...15k? They already had 50K when I put them on. Quiet as a mouse.

I *think* 03-07 Accord rear endlinks work as a cheaper alternative on 1G's as well. I'll have to check.

BROlando

I understand. Here's what I've recommended for people in the same position.

If you want to buy the whole LCA, and you can't stomach the OEM cost, I would opine that the best aftermarket alternatives would be either Moog or Beck Arnley. I believe Moogs are made in China (any line), and the Beck Arnley arms I used on someone's Accord were made in Taiwan. Country of origin isn't as important. The engineering behind the arm is more important. I'd wager that a lot of OEM Acura castings come from China or Taiwan or Eastern Europe.

Endlinks: see above. There are aftermarket companies that make ball jointed style end links. None of them really last.

Ball joints/tie rods....I cannot recommend anything except Genuine Acura or, if available, an aftermarket purchase of an OEM supplier - buying from Sankei on Rock Auto, for example. The latter requires you to know the OEM supplier though...and there's still no guarantee you're buying dealer grade parts. But its your best chance if you're going aftermarket.

Its not that I'm completely against aftermarket replacement "OE equivalent" parts. I just think its important for people to go into it with eyes wide open.

All these suppliers advertise "as good or better than OEM". Bullshit. Maybe they're "better than OEM" for vehicles whose OEM used that supplier...or vehicles that were badly made from the get go. But for Hondas, you'll be hard pressed to even find an equivalent-to-OEM quality chassis part.

For some things (end links, LCA bushings), a premature or unexpected failure due to shitty quality isn't a big deal. But...again...if your ball joint or tie rod fails at any speed, you won't be thinking "well, I'm glad I saved that $25".

BROlando

Remember, though. Whenever installing a control arm with rubber bushings (OEM or aftermarket), always install properly so the part will last its intended span. Clocking bushings is an extremely important installation step. OEM bushings will forgive you more for forgetting it...but will also still tear prematurely.

Part installation errors for any component (not just rubber bushings) requires care and good knowledge/practices. My recommendation is to buy a FACTORY work manual and follow it. Sometimes even seasoned mechanics don't know the specific installation procedures that a certain part may require.

And, with aftermarket parts, always use caution. Be very observant to any differences in hardware or other seemingly small factors. Those people with those Moog ball joints could have saved themselves from all that damage on their cars by stopping as soon as they saw the huge difference in hardware, for example.

Jdrum1

Thanks for all the input.

By all means, I'll do more research and shop around (won't get around to the work for another couple weeks anyway).


Also, just downloaded a Acura shop manual!