Which Front Brakes for 2007 TSX
#1
Which Front Brakes for 2007 TSX
Getting ready to replace brakes on my niece's 07 TSX. Looks like both 45022-SEA-J11 and 45022-SEC-A00 are specified for front. SB 09-054 says the SEA-J11's failed on 09/10 models causing a "juddering vibration". Wonder why SEA-J11's failed on 09/10 models but apparently are still ok for 07? Niece has 76k miles and is experiencing some pulsing while braking. Could be warped rotors but I wonder if it is due the friction material on the SEA-J11's?
What should I buy, SEA-J11's or SEC-A00's? Or, should I go with Akebono ProACT? Thanks for your help.
What should I buy, SEA-J11's or SEC-A00's? Or, should I go with Akebono ProACT? Thanks for your help.
#2
in the 24th and a half...
Akebono's will be fine, especially if you shell out a few more bucks and replace the stock rotors with Brembo blanks. The pulse IS warped rotors...turning them just decreases the time till they warp again.
#3
Getting ready to replace brakes on my niece's 07 TSX. Looks like both 45022-SEA-J11 and 45022-SEC-A00 are specified for front. SB 09-054 says the SEA-J11's failed on 09/10 models causing a "juddering vibration". Wonder why SEA-J11's failed on 09/10 models but apparently are still ok for 07? Niece has 76k miles and is experiencing some pulsing while braking. Could be warped rotors but I wonder if it is due the friction material on the SEA-J11's?
What should I buy, SEA-J11's or SEC-A00's? Or, should I go with Akebono ProACT? Thanks for your help.
What should I buy, SEA-J11's or SEC-A00's? Or, should I go with Akebono ProACT? Thanks for your help.
#4
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I’d recommend against going with Brembo blanks unless you’re a big fan of iron oxide. Buying a set to replace the original rear rotors on my ’04 TSX was a big boo-boo. The Brembos rust quickly and severely. To say the set I bought was rusting while being installed wouldn’t be much of an exaggeration. Took no time at all to achieve the highly undesirable up-from-the-Titanic look. When it came time to replace the front rotors, I went with Power Slots. Don’t recall how much pricier they were than the Brembos, but I’ve been satisfied with ’em – aesthetically and performance-wise.
#6
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
I would recommend installing a better rotor like the Powerslot slotted rotors and the STOPTECH Performance pads. Here are the benefits:
Power Alloy castings (on select applications)
– Engineered Performance Rotor
– Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress
– Increased molybdenum (higher carbon)content that extends reliability, service life and helps reduce NVH “noise” issues
– Rotor material is a direct descendant of the patented AeroRotor from StopTech
Introducing directional curve vane design (on select applications)
– Improved vane design or OE equivalent on all rotors
– Center split castings
New short slot design runs perpendicular to the vane to preserve rotor strength.
Direct OE Replacement
Improved wet weather response
Increased initial “bite”
Double disc ground for a consistent friction surface and Improved pad bed-in
Mill balanced
Black E-Coated non-friction surfaces on “Power Alloy” rotors
Enhances open wheel appearance
Here are the links to the parts you would need for the front:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-276900.aspx
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-276901.aspx
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-338734.aspx
Power Alloy castings (on select applications)
– Engineered Performance Rotor
– Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress
– Increased molybdenum (higher carbon)content that extends reliability, service life and helps reduce NVH “noise” issues
– Rotor material is a direct descendant of the patented AeroRotor from StopTech
Introducing directional curve vane design (on select applications)
– Improved vane design or OE equivalent on all rotors
– Center split castings
New short slot design runs perpendicular to the vane to preserve rotor strength.
Direct OE Replacement
Improved wet weather response
Increased initial “bite”
Double disc ground for a consistent friction surface and Improved pad bed-in
Mill balanced
Black E-Coated non-friction surfaces on “Power Alloy” rotors
Enhances open wheel appearance
Here are the links to the parts you would need for the front:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-276900.aspx
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-276901.aspx
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-338734.aspx
#7
in the 24th and a half...
OK, well since a vendor decided to name names...I used Heel-Toe to buy my stuff. While everything that Excelerate says is correct, I don't race my car and don't need those things. What I needed was a solid replacement for the OEM rotors and pads. I decided against slotted or drilled rotors because:
1) While studies have shown improved feel and performance (around 20-30%, with a much small change in braking distance) with drilled rotors, the drilled rotor also has a tendency to crack.
2) No studies have clearly shown significant improvement with slotted rotors, but increased pad wear (20%+) has been shown.
3) Slots and drilled holes were developed when asbestos pads had significant out gasing issues. Asbesto is not now used in brake pads...
1) While studies have shown improved feel and performance (around 20-30%, with a much small change in braking distance) with drilled rotors, the drilled rotor also has a tendency to crack.
2) No studies have clearly shown significant improvement with slotted rotors, but increased pad wear (20%+) has been shown.
3) Slots and drilled holes were developed when asbestos pads had significant out gasing issues. Asbesto is not now used in brake pads...
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#8
OK, well since a vendor decided to name names...I used Heel-Toe to buy my stuff. While everything that Excelerate says is correct, I don't race my car and don't need those things. What I needed was a solid replacement for the OEM rotors and pads. I decided against slotted or drilled rotors because:
1) While studies have shown improved feel and performance (around 20-30%, with a much small change in braking distance) with drilled rotors, the drilled rotor also has a tendency to crack.
2) No studies have clearly shown significant improvement with slotted rotors, but increased pad wear (20%+) has been shown.
3) Slots and drilled holes were developed when asbestos pads had significant out gasing issues. Asbesto is not now used in brake pads...
1) While studies have shown improved feel and performance (around 20-30%, with a much small change in braking distance) with drilled rotors, the drilled rotor also has a tendency to crack.
2) No studies have clearly shown significant improvement with slotted rotors, but increased pad wear (20%+) has been shown.
3) Slots and drilled holes were developed when asbestos pads had significant out gasing issues. Asbesto is not now used in brake pads...
#9
Summer is Coming
I don't doubt that these are all valid concerns. Also, I think that most of the guys here (that buy aftermarket performance pads and rotors) tend to buy way more performance than they need. That's their prerogative of course, but no one should feel bad if they buy OE level replacement parts. I use drilled and slotted rotors because I think they look cool. And I've used them for well over 100K miles. I think the potential for cracking in drilled rotors is far less than some think. Actually, I don't think I've come across it yet here. Can it happen? Yeah, probably. Will it? I doubt it. Increased wear with slotted rotors? Could be, but so what. Pad are so cheap that I don't care if they wear faster (and I've gotten like 75K plus on pads using slotted rotors). So.... everyone's experience is different I guess, and it's good that we a have forums like this to compare.
So don't over-buy your breaks. If you are driving a grocery getter OEM equivalent will be just fine.
#10
I bought Centric blanks front and back and Hawk HPS pads for my 06. The blanks are fine, but the Hawk HPS pads do not perform well when cold. I hated it so much I just replaced the Hawk's with EBC Ultimax (much cheaper) and much better cold and warm stopping power. The only problem with the EBC pads is that they are so thick the calipers go on snug. Most of that is due to the break-in layer they add to the pad which wears off quickly.
So don't over-buy your breaks. If you are driving a grocery getter OEM equivalent will be just fine.
So don't over-buy your breaks. If you are driving a grocery getter OEM equivalent will be just fine.
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